Tram #7 or 20 to Museumpark. Walk away from the water down Witte de Withstraat. Beer from €2. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-1am.
CATWALK
Weena Zuid 33
CLUB
www.catwalkclub.eu
This intimate, welcoming club (wait that sounds really sexual in a way we don’t intend) sits in a former pedestrian tunnel near Rotterdam Centraal and is cheaper and less about being seen than some of the area’s other clubs. Dancing alongside you, you’ll find a stylishly laid-back group of diverse students and locals.
Tram #4, 7, 8, 21, 23, or 25 to Weena. Walk away from the roundabout, left onto Lijnbaan, and right onto Weena Zuid. Cover €5. Beer from €2.20. Usually open Th-Sa 11pm-whenever the people go home (they have a 24hr. license). Check website for specific events.
GAY PALACE
Schiedamsingel 139
CLUB
010 41 414 86 www.gay-palace.nl
No false advertising here—this is, in fact, a palace fit for a queen. The largest gay club in Rotterdam attracts a pretty mixed crowd of partygoers with one thing in common: their fondness for the dance floor. You’ll find mostly men but quite a few women as well, all shaking it under the big paper lanterns and neon lights.
Tram #7 or 20 to Museumpark. Walk down Witte de Withstraat, make a right when you get to Bazar, and keep right on that street as it loops around F cover varies by event; Sa cover €5 before midnight, €10 after. Open some F; check website or flyers. Otherwise open Sa 11pm-5am.
FESTIVALS
NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL
Ahoy Complex, Zuiderpark
JAZZ
0900 1010 2020 (€0.45 per min.) www.northseajazz.com
One of the largest jazz festivals in the world, North Sea draws over 70,000 people to three days of top-notch music. Past performers have included Stevie Wonder, Norah Jones, B. B. King, Joss Stone, Herbie Hancock, and many more.
Zuidplein. Walk down Metroplein to Zuiderpark. Day tickets €88; 3-day pass €204. Some concerts require an extra €15 ticket. Usually held the 2nd weekend of July.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Use-It is a great one-stop shop for everything you could need in Rotterdam, including free Wi-Fi. (Schaatsbaan 41-45 010 24 092 58 www.use-it.nl Open May 15-June Tu-Su 9am-6pm; July-Aug M noon-5pm, Tu-Su 9am-6pm; Sept 1-Sept 15 Tu-Su 9am-6pm; Sept 16-May 14 Tu-Sa 9am-5pm.) VVV. (Stationsplein 45 0900 403 4065 www.vvvrotterdam.nl Open M-Sa 9am-5:30pm, Su 10am-5pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Politie Rotterdam-Rijnmond is the local police department. (Doelwater 5 0900 88 44 www.politie-rotterdam-rijnmond.nl Metro or tram #21 or 23 to Stadhuis. It’s 1 block south of Hofplein, on the right. Open 24hr.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Night Pharmacy. (Schiedamsedijk 80 010 43 399 66 Open daily 5:30pm-8am.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Erasmus MC. (‘s-Gravendijkwal 320 010 70 401 45 www.erasmusmc.nl Tram #8 to Erasmus MC. Open 24hr.)
Getting There
Trains arrive into Rotterdam Centraal from Amsterdam ( €13.30. 1hr.-1hr. 15min., 1-7 per hr.), Brussels ( €25.50. 1hr. 10min., 1 per hr., 8am-9pm.), The Hague ( €4.30. 30 min., 1-5 per hr.), and Utrecht ( €9.10. 40 min., 1-4 per hr.). You can also theoretically fly into the small Rotterdam international airport, serviced by budget airlines like Transavia and City Jet, but it’s easy to get there from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport ( €10.70. 45 min., 1-5 per hr.), where you’ll have many more flight options.
Getting Around
RET is the transport network for Rotterdam. There are numerous Metro lines in the city; the D line runs north-south, with Rotterdam Centraal as its northern terminus, and the A, B, and C lines run east-west, intersecting D at Beurs. However, since there are only a few Metro stops within the city center, it is much more convenient for tourists to use the tram network, which costs the same as the Metro (trips €0.78 to start and then €0.15 per additional km. 1- to 3-day ticket €6-12. Single-use tickets, valid for 1hr. on tram and bus or 2hr. on tram, bus, and Metro €2.50-3.50). As with most Dutch cities, biking is the most popular and convenient method of transportation. You can rent bikes at most hostels and hotels or at Use-It for €6 per day (€50 deposit required).
utrecht
030
First settled under the Romans around the turn of the millennium, Utrecht was, for a long time, the Netherlands’s cultural and religious capital. Given its ideal placement in the center of the country, the city is a good staging ground for all kinds of festivals and events and remains at the heart of Dutch life even though it is no longer the country’s capital. Remnants of the city’s religious past live on in the beautiful medieval churches and the stunning Domkerk. Not being the modern-day capital, however, means that Utrecht is small, easily accessible, and pedestrian friendly. Its rows of old-fashioned houses, church spires, and long walkways lining canals set below street level make it quite the belle ville. But we wouldn’t have you thinking it’s all sweetness and quiet here: with one of the Netherlands’s largest universities and a student population pushing 60,000, Utrecht’s got great nightlife and a buzzing, youthful feel. This makes it the ideal stop for those who want to experience the Netherlands at its most picturesque without totally leaving the urban jungle behind.
ORIENTATION
Arriving at Utrecht Centraal, you’ll enter the city through the gargantuan Hoog Catharijne shopping center. Unless you’re tempted to do some shopping, follow the signs toward Vredenburg and eventually emerge at a square about a 5min. walk from the city center, or Museumkwartier. This part of town, a long strip bordered on the west by Oudegracht and on the east by Nieuwegracht canal, contains the most points of interest in the city. Domtoren, Utrecht’s most easily recognizable landmark, is located smack-dab in the middle of the two canals (well, in the middle of where Nieuwegracht would be if extended just a little bit farther). The primary east-west street is the many-named Vredenburg/Lange Viestraat/Potterstraat, which then becomes Nobelstraat after Janskerkhof. While Utrecht is an affluent and peaceful city, the area around Utrecht Centraal is best avoided at night.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Utrecht is a pretty swanky town, and this is immediately apparent when you’re trying to find a hotel in the center that’s under €200 a night. Fortunately, Strowis has great dorms and private rooms, and there are a few really excellent hotels on the city’s outskirts.
STROWIS
Boothstraat 8
HOSTEL
030 23 802 80 www.strowis.nl
Run by the same former squatters’ organization as the ACU, Strowis is a beautiful hostel located right in the city center. It’s got high ceilings, brightly-painted walls, and spotless dorms and bathrooms.
15min. east of the train station. 4- to 14-bed dorms €15.50-18.50; singles and doubles €60. Curfew M-Th 2am, F-Sa 3am.
DE ADMIRAAL
Admiraal van Gentstraat 11
HOTEL
030 27 585 00 www.hoteldeadmiraal.nl
This hotel is about a 20min. walk from the city center, but don’t let the distance put you off. It’s an incredibly beautiful and well-designed place; ask for a room with a garden-view terrace.
Bus #8 to Jan van Galenstraat. Singles €70, with bath €90; doubles €110.
HELLO B AND B
Herenweg 32
HOTEL
030 22 692 124
It’s hard to tell that there is a hotel in the middle of the long line of houses here, and this non-commercial feeling continues inside, where you’ll feel like a guest in a welcoming home. The rooms are incredibly cozy, with hearty wood furniture and floral patterns on walls and bedspreads.
15min. walk along Oudegracht to the north of the city center. Singles €45; doubles €65.
SIGHTS
Utrecht is home to a lot of churches and a lot of offbeat museums on topics ranging from Aboriginal art (Oudegracht 176 023 801 00 www.aamu.nl) to street organs (Steenweg 6 023 127 89 www.museumspeel
klok.nl).
DOMKERK
Domplein
CHURCH
030 23 600 10 (tour reservations) www.domkerk.nl, www.domtoren.nl
At 369 ft., this intricate Gothic spire belonging to Utrecht’s cathedral is the tallest church tower in all of the Netherlands. Besides its unique height, it is distinguished by being the only Dutch church built in the Northern French Gothic style, which can be seen in its characteristic pointed arches and large windows. In the church you can observe its altarpieces bearing the marks of the 16th century’s iconoclastic violence, its huge 19th-century organ, and the tomb of sea hero Admiral van Gendt. Make sure to stop by the peaceful cloister next door. In the city center, it’s the tallest thing around—you’ll be able to find it. Church free. Tour €8, students and seniors €6.50, under 13 €4.50. Church open May-Sept M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-3:30pm, Su 2-4pm; Oct-Apr M-F 11am-4pm, Sa 11am-3:30pm, Su 2-4pm.
CENTRAAL MUSEUM
Nicolaaskerkhof
MUSEUM
030 23 623 62 www.centraalmuseum.nl
This is the Netherlands’s oldest municipal museum (dating from 1838). The collection’s eclectic mix tells the story of Utrecht’s artistic and cultural development. Particularly notable is the selection of 17th-century Caravaggist painters, like Hendrik ter Brugghen and Gerrit van Honthorst. A modern art wing with works by Surrealist artists and Magic Realists such as Pyke Koch also merits mention.
From Domkerk, head south on Korte Nieuwstraat, which becomes Lange Nieuwstraat. Turn right onto Agnietenstraat; it becomes Nicolaaskerkhof. €9, students and ages 13-17 €4, seniors €7.50, under 12 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm.
CATHARIJNECONVENT
Lange Nieuwstraat 38
MUSEUM
030 23 138 35 www.catharijneconvent.nl
In honor of Utrecht’s history as the Christian center of the Netherlands, this convent has been converted into a museum dedicated to the treasures of Dutch Christianity. Here you’ll find beautiful religious paintings by artists like Rembrandt and Frans Hals, while in the treasury, ornate chalices and illuminated manuscripts explain the development of Christianity in the Netherlands.
From Domkerk, walk down Korte Nieuwstraat, which then becomes Lange Nieuwstraat. €11.50, under 18 €7.25, with Museumjaarkaart €2.50. Open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
COFFEESHOPS AND SMARTSHOPS
Utrecht is home to a few coffeeshops, though not as many as one might expect in a place this packed with students.
COFFEESHOP ANDERSON
Vismarkt 23
COFFEESHOP
030 23 286 65
Coffeeshop Anderson is more touristy than many Utrecht shops, but that’s just because of its prime location and its two large and well-decorated smoking rooms, one of which has a window overlooking the canal. Many patrons linger over juice and joints for hours while playing games of backgammon or chess.
From Domkerk, walk to Oudegracht and make a right. €10 gets you 1-1.6g weed or hash; joints €3.50-5. Open M-W 10am-11pm, Th-Sa 10am-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
BORDEAUX ROOD
Voorstraat 81
COFFEESHOP
030 23 696 86
The name makes Bordeaux Rood sound like an establishment in Amsterdam’s Red Light District, but other than some red velvet curtains, there’s little resemblance to a bordello here. Small but quality selection of weed.
From Domkerk, walk behind the church to get to Oudekerkhof and continue onto Drift; make a left onto Voorstraat. Weed and hash €4-12 per g. Open M-W 10am-10pm, Th-Sa 10am-11pm, Su noon-10pm.
FOOD
Eating in Utrecht is a delight for the stomach but certainly not for the bank account. Museumkwartier tempts with one elegant bistro after another. None are exorbitantly expensive (€25-30 for a meal, perhaps), but they’re not exactly budget-traveler friendly.
BIGOLI
Schoutenstraat 7-12
ITALIAN, DELI
030 23 688 48 www.bigoli.nl
This Italian deli and sandwich shop sets out a mouthwatering display case full of meats, cheeses, and spreads. You can pick up a sandwich to go or stock up on deli items, pastas, oils, and wine.
Just off Neude square, in the direction of Domkerk. Sandwiches €3-4. Open M 11am-6pm, Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-5pm.
STAMPOT TO GO
Nobelstraat 143
DUTCH
030 22 323 62 www.stampottogo.nl
Disappointed by the dearth of fulfilling Dutch comfort food in a sea of shawarma and pizza joints, the owner of this sleek green and white shop took matters into her own hands and opened a place where you can get classic Dutch food to go. From Domkerk, walk down Korte Jansstraat to the Janskerk and make a right onto Nobelstraat. Stampot €5-6. Open M-W 4-8:30pm, Th 4-9pm, F 4-8:30pm. Closed most of July.
RESTAURANT SWEETIE
Predikherenstraat 21
CHINESE, SURINAMESE
030 23 227 24 www.restaurant-sweetie.nl
One of Utrecht’s most popular ethnic restaurants, Sweetie has an impressive menu of dishes that are a mix of Chinese and Surinamese cuisine (leaning more toward the latter)—think lots of rice and noodles, satays, and rotis.
From Domkerk, walk down Schoutenstraat toward Neude, cross the square, and head down Predikherenstraat. Entrees €9-17. 3-course menu €17.50. Open Tu-Su 4-10pm.
ZIZO
Oudegracht 281-283
CAFE, SANDWICHES
030 23 004 63 www.zizo-online.net
This lunch cafe is part of a complex staffed almost entirely by mentally-handicapped men and women and that includes a colorful gift store and a copy service. The menu consists of large sandwiches made fresh to order, salads, soups, and homemade desserts.
On Oudegracht, near the Catharijneconvent. Sandwiches, soups, and tarts €2.75-4.75. Salads €9.90. Open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-4:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
For a picturesque medieval town, Utrecht sure does have some bumping nightlife, thanks in large part to the thousands of students that call it home. Thursday is a big night for clubbing, as many establishments grant free entrance with a student ID. Check out the streets of the Museumkwartier for bar-cafes and the Oudegracht for beautiful terraces along the canal. Janskerkhof has something of a monopoly on student bars, with a number of them clustered in a corner just down the road from the student club, Woolloo Moolo (Janskerkhof 14), that’s run by a local fraternity.
TIVOLI
Oudegracht 245
CLUB, CONCERT VENUE
0900 235 84 86 www.tivoli.nl
Utrecht’s premier spot for good music and a good night, Tivoli hosts all kinds of bands, mainly indie rock and some blues, reggae, and hip-hop acts. Three nights a week, local and international DJs spin house, electro, hip hop, and pop to keep the crowd moving. With a capacity of 1000, it can get quite crowded—it’s mainly packed with students, especially on Thursdays.
From Domkerk, walk down to Oudegracht and make a left. Cover €4-10; students with ID free Th. Beer from €2.30. Open Th-Sa 11pm-5am; other times depend on concerts.
KAFE BELGIË
Oudegracht 196
BAR
030 23 126 66
It’s a safe bet that any bar referencing Belgium in its name will have a good beer selection. True to form, this bar delivers—within its simple stucco interior you’ll find 20 beers on tap and over 200 bottled varieties. Enjoy your pint amid a faithful crowd of locals young and old.
From Domkerk, walk down to Oudegracht and make a left. It’s on the near bank of the canal, just past the Aboriginal Art Museum. Beer from €2. Open daily noon-1am.
‘T OUDE POTHUYS
Oudegracht 279
BAR, JAZZ CLUB
030 23 189 70 www.pothuys.nl
A sunken, candlelit bar with live jazz, blues, or funk every night, ‘t Oude Pothuys is somewhat labyrinthine. It’s got a stage-filled bar area, a restaurant, and a canalside terrace from which people have been known to take a drun
ken dive.
From Domkerk, walk down to Oudegracht and make a left. The bar is the one on the far side of the canal, at the corner with Korte Smeestraat. Beer from €2.10. Open M-W 3pm-2am, Th-Sa 3pm-3am, Su 3pm-2am. Live music 11pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: VVV. (Domplein 9 0900 128 87 32 www.utrechtyourway.nl Across from Domkerk. Open M noon-6pm, Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F 10am-6pm, Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su noon-5pm.)
• INTERNET: Openbare Bibliotheek Utrecht. (Oudegracht 167 030 28 618 00 www.bibliotheek-utrecht.nl Free Wi-Fi. Internet €3 per hr. Open M 1-9pm, Tu-W 11am-6pm, Th 11am-9pm, F 11am-6pm, Sa 10am-5pm.)
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 175