Emergency!
• POLICE: Politie Utrecht. (Kroonstraat 25 030 900 8844 www.politie.nl/utrecht Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Universitair Medisch Centrum Utrecht. (Heidelberglaan 100 088 75 555 55 www.umcutrecht.nl Take any of the numerous buses that run to Academisch Ziekenhuis. The stop is right at the hospital.)
Getting There
Trains roll into Utrecht Centraal, an easy walk from the city center, from Amsterdam ( €6.70. 30min., 1-4 per hr.), Rotterdam ( €9.10. 40min., 1-4 per hr.), and The Hague. ( €9.70. 35-40min., 1-6 per hr.)
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required of any citizens, of anywhere
• VISA: Required of non-EU citizens staying longer than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT : Required of all non-EU citizens planning to work in the Netherlands.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
The Netherlands are 1hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observe Daylight Saving Time. This means that they are 6hr. ahead of New York City, 9hr. ahead of Los Angeles, and 1hr. ahead of the British Isles. In Northern Hemisphere summer they are 8hr. behind Sydney and 10hr. behind New Zealand, while in Northern Hemisphere winter they are 10hr. behind Sydney and 12hr. behind New Zealand. Don’t get confused and call your parents when it’s actually 4am their time! Note that, like the rest of the EU, the Dutch change to Daylight Savings Time on different dates from some non-European countries, so sometimes the difference will be one hour different from what is stated here.
MONEY
Tipping
In the Netherlands, service charges are included in the bill at restaurants. Waiters do not depend on tips for their livelihood, so there is no need to feel guilty about not leaving a tip. Still, leaving 5-10% extra will certainly be appreciated. Higher than that is just showing off. Tips in bars are very unusual. Cab drivers are normally tipped about 10%.
Taxes
The quoted price of goods in the Netherlands includes value added tax (BTW). This tax on goods is generally levied at 19%, although some goods are subject to lower rates.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Drugs and Alcohol
The Netherlands has a fairly liberal attitude regarding alcohol, with legal drinking ages of 16 and booze widely available. Public drunkenness, however, is frowned upon and is a sure way to mark yourself as a tourist.
When it comes to drugs other than alcohol, as is so often the case, things get a little more interesting. Hard drugs are completely illegal in the Netherlands, and possession or consumption of substances like heroin and cocaine will be harshly punished if caught. In the Netherlands, soft drugs like marijuana and mushrooms are tolerated, and you are very unlikely to face prosecution for using them. Consumption is confined to certain legalized zones, namely coffeeshops (for marijuana) and smartshops (for herbal drugs). Both are heavily regulated but very popular: the number of smartshops in particular has exploded in recent years. When visiting a coffeeshop or smartshop for the first time, it may be a good idea to take a sober friend with you. Even experienced drug users may be surprised at the hotbox effect created in shops where the fumes of several pot-smokers accumulate. Having a friend to guide you home could turn out to be helpful if not absolutely essential.
Prostitution
The “world’s oldest profession” has flourished in the Netherlands, particularly in the liberal capital of the world, Amsterdam. Prostitution in Amsterdam has always centered on what is today called the Red Light District, though it is practiced elsewhere in the city as well.
Legal prostitution in Amsterdam comes in two main forms. Window prostitution, which involves scantily clad women tempting passersby from small chambers fronted by a plate-glass window, is by far the most visible. Sex workers of this kind are self-employed and rent the windows themselves. Accordingly, each sets her own price. This form of commercial sex gave the Red Light District its name, as lamps both outside and inside the windows emit a red glow that, at night, bathes the whole area. Whether shopping or “just looking,” be sure to show the women basic respect. Looking is fine and even expected, but leering and catcalling are absolutely uncalled for. Keep in mind that prostitution is an entirely legal enterprise, and windows are places of business. Most of the prostitutes whom you see belong to a union called “The Red Thread” and are tested for HIV and STIs, although testing is on a voluntary basis. Do not take photos unless you want to explain yourself to the angriest—and largest—man you’ll ever see.
If you’re interested in having sex with a window prostitute, go up to the door and wait for someone inside to let you in. Show up clean and sober; prostitutes always reserve the right to refuse their services. Anything goes as long as you clearly and straightforwardly agree to it beforehand. Specifically state what you want to get for the money you’re paying—that means which sex acts, in what positions, and, especially, how much time you have in which to do it. Window prostitutes can set their standards; by no means are they required to do anything you want without consenting to it in advance. Negotiation occurs and money changes hands before any sexual acts take place. Always practice safe sex; a prostitute should not and will not touch an un-condomed penis. Don’t ask for a refund if you are left unsatisfied: all sales are final. There is no excuse for making trouble; if anyone becomes violent or threatening with a window prostitute, she has access to an emergency button that sets off a loud alarm. Not only does it make an ear-splitting noise but it also summons the police, who invariably side with prostitutes in disputes. If you feel you have a legitimate complaint or have any questions about commercial sex, head to the extremely helpful Prostitution Information Centre (below) and talk it through.
Another option is the recently legalized brothels. The term usually refers to an establishment centered on a bar. There, women—or men—who are avilable for hour-long sessions will make your acquaintance. These brothels, also called sex clubs, can be pricey. They are also controversial, and in the last few years the authorities have sought to close brothels associated with trafficking and criminal gangs.
The best place to go for information about prostitution in Amsterdam is the Prostitution Information Centre. (Enge Kerksteeg 3, in the Red Light District behind the Oude Kerk, 020 420 7328 www.pic-amsterdam.com Open Sa 4-7pm. Available at other times for group bookings, call ahead.) Founded in 1994 by Mariska Majoor (once a prostitute herself), the center fills a niche, connecting the Red Light District with its eager frequenters. The center’s staff can answer any question you might have, no matter how blush-worthy the query.
netherlands 101
facts and figures
• POPULATION: 16,609,000
• AGE: 430 years old in 2011
• SIZE: 41,526 sq. km
• INHABITANTS PER SQ. KM: 400
• ETHNIC GROUPS: 173
• POT SMOKERS: 5.2% of Nederlanders in any given year (compared with 12.5% of Americans)
• COFFEESHOPS IN AMSTERDAM IN 1960, THE FIRST TIME LET’S GO WENT TO AMSTERDAM: 5
• COFFEESHOPS TODAY: 241
• TOURISTS THAT VISIT A COFFEESHOP: 30%
• BICYCLE THEFTS IN AMSTERDAM PER YEAR: 80,000
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
We know you’re expecting some culture shock in the Red Light District of Amsterdam, but there’s plenty to be aware of in (ahem) your slightly more “professional” encounters with Amsterdam natives.
Upon being introduced to someone, a firm handshake is customary, though close friends greet each other with three kisses, comme le style français. When sharing a meal, it is still common for men to wait for women to be seated. Soft drugs and prostitution may be legal in Amsterdam, but abusers and law-breakers are pu
nished harshly.
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
HOLIDAY OR FESTIVAL DESCRIPTION DATE
Queen’s Birthday A day of national pride. Orange clothing and street parties everywhere. Not the queen’s real birthday. April 30
WWll Remembrance Day A solemn day to remember the Netherlands’ WWll dead. A moment of silence is observed. May 4
Liberation Day A day of public fêtes to celebrate the country’s liberation from Nazi occupation. Controversy often erupts over Dutch appeasement of their conquerors. May 5
National Windmill Day Windmills throw open their doors, and many have special (often educational) events. 2nd Saturday in May
Amsterdam Gay Pride Three days of tolerance and partying, with a parade and street festivals for all sexual orientations. Early August
Aalsmeer Flower Parade Flower floats, flower art, and flowery music in the world’s flower capital. Early September
High Times Cannabis Cup One long tokefest. At the end of the festival, awards are given to the best hash and marijuana. November
Amsterdam Leather Pride The premier gathering for “leather men.” Features fetish parties and a lot of leather outfits. late October early November
Sinterklaas Eve Dutch Santa Claus delivers candy and gifts to nice Dutch children. The naughty ones are kidnapped (hope you’re on the nice list). December 5
PORTUGAL
lisbon
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
FADO
FESTIVALS
ESSENTIALS
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
MONEY
SAFETY AND HEALTH
SPECIFIC CONCERNS
PRE-DEPARTURE HEALTH
portugal 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
FOOD AND DRINK
Portugal draws hordes of backpackers by fusing its timeless inland towns and majestic castles with industrialized cities like Lisbon, whose graffiti-covered walls separate bustling bars from posh fado restaurants. The original backpackers, Portuguese patriarchs like Vasco da Gama, pioneered the exploration of Asia, Africa, and South America, and the country continues to foster such discovery within its borders, with wine regions like the Douro Valley, immaculate forests and mountains in its wild northern region, and 2000km of coastline for tourists to traverse and travel.
greatest hits
• BARRIO ALTO NIGHTLIFE: Don’t fear crowd-induced pit stains in this neighborhood—everyone drinks on the sidewalks (Bairro Alto).
• FADO: Because you’re where this music was born (FADO).
• CLUBBIN’ BY THE WATER: Lisbon has some of the hottest clubs this side of the Pyrenees, located on the riverfront (Nightlife).
For details on Portugal map, click here
student life
Northern Portugal’s most famous export, port, is named after the city of Porto, and guess what the entire country is named after? It really all centers on this delicious alcoholic beverage made from wine that, by virtue of residual sugar, has become more than four times as alcoholic as regular wine. With half the proof of vodka and more than twice its tastiness, port can be quite the temptress, and before you know it, you’re passed out at the tasting. Port is no old-person’s drink either—students at Coimbra are just as likely as seniors playing cards to be imbibing the ruby drink.
lisbon
21
ORIENTATION
Lisbon’s historic center has four main neighborhoods: Baixa, where accommodations, shopping, and tourists galore can be found; Chiado, the cultural center just uphill west of Baixa; nightlife-rich Bairro Alto, still farther west; and ancient Alfama, on the east side of Baixa. The narrow, windy streets and stairways of Alfama and Bairro alto can be confusing and difficult to navigate without a good map. The Lisboa Mapa da Cidade e Guia Turístico (€3) has nearly every street in these neighborhoods labeled, and is a good investment if you’re going to be exploring Lisbon for a few days. The maps at the tourist offices are reliable but do not show the names of many streets, particularly in Alfama and Bairro Alto. Tram 28E runs east-west, parallel to the river, and connects all these neighborhoods, with its eastern terminus in the inexpensive and off-the-beaten-path neighborhood of Graça.
ACCOMMODATIONS
In recent years Lisbon has experienced an explosion of budget tourism, and new, low-priced accommodations have sprung up to cater to this crowd. The large number of hostels in Baixa and Bairro Alto means there is an impressive level of competition between them (one Let’s Go researcher was even accused of being a spy for a different hostel), which keeps prices low and forces the owners to constantly attempt to improve to gain an edge.
Camping is fairly popular in Portugal, but campers can be prime targets for thieves. Stay at an enclosed campsite and ask ahead about security. There are 30 campgrounds within a 45mi. radius of the capital. The most popular, Lisboa Camping, is inside a 2,200-acre parque florestal and has the highest rating given to campsites in Portugal. They also have a hotel for dogs (€10 per day). Seriously. (Parque Municipal de Campismo de Monsanto, Estrada da Circunvalação 217 62 82 00 www.lisboacamping.com Bus 714 runs from Pr. do Comércio to Parque de Campismo. July-Aug €6.50 per person; €6-7 per tent; €4 per car; May-June and Sept €5.50/5-6/3.50; Oct-Apr €5/4.10-5/3.)
Baixa
KITSCH HOSTEL
Pr. dos Restauradoes, 65, 2nd fl.
HOSTEL
213 47 43 62 www.kitschhostel.com
Eponymous kitsch covers the walls of this hidden hostel (you have to go through a back door in a tobacconist’s to get there), which is a little rougher and edgier than its clean-cut counterparts on the other side of Rossio. The dorm rooms are simple and small, the private rooms not much better, but you’re not going to spend too much time in bed if you’re here anyway. The reception desk does double-duty as a lively bar for guests in the evenings who mingle among the pop-art before heading out.
For details on Lisbon map, click here
Restauradores. On east side of Pr. dos Restauradores (to your right as you face the long, tree-lined Av. da Liberdade); enter through Tabacaria Restauradores, next to Santander Totta bank. Breakfast and linens included. Free lockers. Laundry service available. Kitchen. Towels €1. Shared baths. Oct-May 10- to 12-bed dorms €12; 8-bed dorms €14; 6-bed €16; 4-bed €18. Doubles €40; triples €60. June-Sept 12-bed dorms €14; 8- to 10-bed €16; 6-bed €18; 4-bed €20. Doubles €60; triples €75. Reception 24hr.
LISBON LOUNGE HOSTEL/LIVING LOUNGE HOSTEL
R. de São Nicolau, 41
R. do Crucifixo, 116
HOSTEL
213 46 20 61 www.lisbonloungehostel.com
213 46 10 78
These nearby hostels, under joint ownership, have large common spaces and big rooms with the best interior design around, hostel or not. Staying here is really less like being in a hostel and more like staying in a nice hotel where you share bedrooms and bathrooms: if you reserve by 6pm, you can have a delicious traditional dinner in the dining room (€8), you can hang out in the lounge, or you can get introduced to Lisbon on one of their free walking tours twice a week.
Lisbon Lounge: From Baixa-Chiado, take R. da Vitória exit, then immediate right onto R. do Crucifixo, then take the 1st left onto R. de São Nicolau and walk for 4 blocks. Living Lounge: From Baixa-Chiado, take R. da Vitória exit, then take an immediate left onto R. do Crucifixo. Breakfast, towels, and linens included. Free lockers. Laundry €7. Kitchen. Free city tours Tu and F. Lisbon Lounge: Oct 15-Apr 14 dorms €18; doubles €50. Apr 15-May 31 and Sept 16-Oct 14 €20/60. Jun 1-Sep 15 €22/60. Living Lounge: dorms and doubles same rates as Lisbon Lounge. Singles Oct 15-Apr 14 €30; Apr 15-Oct 14 €35. Reception 24hr.
HOME LISBON HOSTEL
R. de São Nicolau, 13
HOSTEL
218 88 53 12 www.mylisbonhome.com
The amenities that set this hostel apart are free la
undry service (the Lisbon summer heat will make you go through clean clothes in record time), an elevator (it used to be called “Easy Hostel” for a reason), and Portuguese translations of useful English phrases painted on the common room wall—in case you left your dictionary at home. The rooms aren’t huge but have classic wood floors and balconies with views over Baixa.
From Baixa-Chiado, take the R. da Vitória exit, then turn right onto R. do Crucifixo. Take the 1st left onto R. de São Nicolau; it’s 5 blocks down. Breakfast, linens, lockers, and towels included. Kitchen. Free laundry service. Elevator. Dorms June-Sept €18-22. Reception 24hr.
Bairro Alto and Chiado
LISBON POETS HOSTEL
R. Nova da Trinidade, 2, 5th fl.
HOSTEL
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 176