Jaume I. Walk down C. de la Princesa and take a right onto C. dels Flassanders. Hofmann is located immediately before crossing Passeig del Born. Croissants €1-1.50. Gelato €3.50. Marmalades €8. Chocolates €1-5. Coffee €1.20-1.50. Open Tu-W 9am-2pm and 3:30-8pm, Th-Sa 9am-2pm and 3:30-8:30pm, Su 9am-2:30pm.
BODEGA LA TINAJA
C. de l’Esparteria, 9
WINERY, RESTAURANT
93 310 22 50 www.bodegalastinajas.com
With so much wine lining the walls that you’ll feel tipsy just looking in, this dark, earthy den behind a huge Gothic door provides bottle after bottle, jug after jug, and even barrel after barrel for whatever your thirst (or just eyes) may desire. The smell of seasoned meat fills the air with typical Catalan entrees (€10-21).
Barceloneta. Walk away from the water on Plà del Palau and turn right onto folo Plà del Palau at the end of the plaza. Turn left onto Plaça de les Olles and follow it as it veers into C. de les Dames. Turn right onto C. de l’Esparteria. Large selection of wine. Sometimes hosts guitar and flamenco concerts. Salads €7.25-8.75. Full entrees €10-21, half €4.25-11. Open Tu-Su 8am-midnight.
EL ROVELL
C. de l’Argenteria, 6
CATALAN
932 69 04 58 www.elrovelldelborn.com
Literally “the yolk” and not so literally “the place to meet,” El Rovell satisfies both claims with a special egg-centric menu section and a large TV for congregating around the game. Don’t be fooled by the screen in the back and the buckets hanging from the tables—this is no spit-your-shells-on-the-floor sports bar. Classy red leather stools and a clean wood interior match equally refined clientele and cuisine, like huevos rotos (scrambled eggs) with foie gras (€9.25).
Jaume I. Exit to C. de l’Argenteria and walk down C. de l’Argenteria away from Via Laietana. Entrees €7.50-24. Salads €6.50-14. Tapas €5.50-11. Open daily 1-4pm and 7pm-midnight.
VA DE VI
C. dels Banys Vells, 16
CATALAN
933 19 29 00
This 15th-century tavern was once home to Christopher Columbus, though nowadays the rustic, earthy interior is caught in a decorating rift between 19th-century cellos and random flourescent lightning bolts ripping through the main room. The menu hearkens back to its historic past with a selection of traditional Catalan dishes, cheeses from France and Spain, and enough wine and cava to get you to believe you discovered the New World.
Jaume I. Walk down C. de l’Argenteria and take a left onto C. Rossic. Take a right onto C. dels Banys Vells. Meats €4-14.20. Cheeses €4-9. Tapas €1.50-6.50. Wine €2. Cava €2.50. Beer €1.50. Open M-Th 6pm-2:30am, F-Sa 6pm-3am, Su 6pm-2:30am.
LA PIZZA DEL BORN
Pg. del Born, 22
PIZZERIA
933 10 62 46
True to its name, La Pizza del Born serves pizza along the oh-so-fashionable Passeig del Born—something worth noting for the important role it serves for budget travelers drowning in the dollar signs of boutiques and botegas. A slice will cost you just €1.80, and stools and a TV make finding new friends easy during any fútbol match.
Jaume I. Walk down C. de la Princessa and take a right onto C. dels Flassanders. Pizza del Born is in front and to the right upon entering Passeig del Born. Slice of pizza €1.80; 2 slices and a drink €3.90. Open M-Th noon-1am, F-Sa noon-2am, Su noon-1am.
El Raval
SOHO
C. Ramelleres, 26
PITA, HOOKAH
One of the most recent additions to Raval, Soho is also one of the most welcome, serving cheap and simple eats like pitas and pastas with meat and vegetarian options (€1.95) without sending you off in a rush. Low-slung seats with smaller, intimate rooms make the perfect setting for test-driving a hookah from the impressive wall of smoking paraphernalia (€10).
Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers and take a right onto C. de les Ramelleres.. Pitas €2. Pasta €3. Hookah €10. Open M-Sa 1pm-midnight.
JUICY JONES
C. Hospital, 74
VEGETARIAN
934 43 90 82 www.juicyjones.com
The big brother of the Juicy Jones in the Barri Gotíc, this version of the vegetarian eatery offers a Raval-inspired twist—daily specials of Indian dahl and curries spice up the normal selection of sandwiches, plates, and an impressive selection of juices. If you have ever wondered what M.C. Escher’s art would have looked like in the times of LSD, the interior will satisfy your curiosity.
Liceu. Walk down C. de l’Hospital. Juicy Jones is on your right on the corner of C. Hospital and C. d’En Roig, before you hit Rambla del Raval. Menú €8.50. Daliy thali plate €6. Tapas €2-3.50. Sandwiches €3.85-4.50. Open daily 1-11:30pm.
NARIN
C. Tallers, 80
MEDITERRANEAN
933 01 90 04
Sitting discretely along the shops and cafes of C. Tallers, Narin is hiding the best baklava in Barcelona and equally scrumptious falafel, shawarma, and kebabs. If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen—the inside feels like a sauna with wooden walls and sweaty people. Luckily, beers come cold and cheap (€1.80) for those looking to brave the bar area, and a tiled dining room provides a reprieve from the buzz of the kebab shaver.
Universitat. Walk down C. dels Tallers. Pitas €3-4. Snacks €2.50-4.80. Baklava €1. Beer €1.80. Open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-2am.
SHALIMAR
C. Carme, 71
PAKISTANI, INDIAN
933 29 34 96
Shalimar serves authentic Pakistani and Indian dishes tandoori style. Generous portions and delicious meat-based curries including chicken (€7), lamb (€8.20), and shrimp (€9) punctuate a menu that would make any vegetarian happy. Handpainted tiles and warm lighting perk up the interior as lace curtains block out the busy streets of Raval.
the art of tapear-ing
You may be under the (very common) impression that tapas are a type of Spanish food. However, it would be better to say that tapas are a Spanish way of eating.
Tapas are said to have been invented out of necessity. According to The Joy of Cooking, the original tapas were the slices of bread or meat which sherry drinkers in Andalusian taverns used to cover their glasses between sips, explaining the verb’s origin: tapar, to cover. The reasoning behind this was protection from the fruit flies that abound during hot Spanish summers, and their penchant for sherry. Eventually, the bartenders realized that by diversifying their food offerings, they would net more customers, and the idea of tapas came into being. Today the tapas themselves may be any type of Spanish food, served in small portions. The verb tapear contains the essence of tapas, as it means, colloquially: to go out to several bars and order a drink and a few tapas at each. It’s the quintessential method of Spanish socializing: similar to a pub crawl, but with way more food.
Liceu. Walk down C. de l’Hospital and take a right onto C. d’En Roig. Left onto C. del Carme. Shalimar is on the left before the fork in the road. Appetizers €2-8. Veggie specials €3.70-4. Shrimp curry €9.30. Chicken €7. Beer €2. Open M-Tu 8pm-midnight, W-Su 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight.
MADAME JASMINE
Rambla del Raval, 22
CAFE
Allow yourself to be seduced either by the 19th-century French-brothel-chic interior or the scrumptious bocadillos. Orange and red lighting sets the mood, incense fills the nostrils, and a selection of sultry Latin, electro, and lounge music will get you in the mood to partake in the less literal red light activities lining the streets of Raval.
Liceu. Walk down C. de l’Hospital and take a right onto Rambla del Raval. Madame Jasmine will be on your left nearly two thirds down. Sandwiches and salads €4.75. House vermouth €2.20. Cocktails €5.50. Shots €2. Open M-F 5:30pm-2:30am, Sa-Su 1:30pm-2:30am. Kitchen open daily until midnight.
MENDIZABAL
C. Junta de Comerç, 2
FOODSTAND
A crowd of young, artsy students out front and vibrant multicolored tiles in the back make this otherwise inc
onspicuous foodstand hard to miss. Take your cheap eats to go, or grab a seat on the terrace in the neighborhing plaza for an extra 10% (look for the coordinating chairs). Some veggie-friendly options are available—we recommend the tomato, brie, and avocado sandwich (€3.60).
Liceu. Walk down C. l’Hospital. Mendizabal is at the corner of C. l’Hospital and C. Junta de Comerç. Terrace seating located in plaça across the street, but will cost 10% extra. Bocadillos €3.60-4.10. Beer €2.50. Postres €1.30-2.80. Open daily 8am-12:30am.
L’ANTIC FORN
C. Pintor Fortuny, 28
CATALAN
93 412 05 86 www.lanticforn.com
White tablecloths and an unremarkable interior hide high quality Catalan cuisine at a reasonable price. The dining room is bright and airy during the day, with the crowd getting younger and the lighting sultier as the night progresses. Order the cooked artichokes (€6.50) or grilled goat breast (€9) as you get prepared for a rowdier end to your night elsewhere.
Catalonia. Walk toward the sea on Las Ramblas and take a right onto C. Pintor Fortuny. Reservations recommended on weekends. Appetizers €4.50-11; entrees €8.70-18. Daily menú €11. Open daily 9am-5pm and 8pm-midnight.
ORGANIC
C. Junta de Comerç, 11
CAFE, MEDITERRANEAN
933 01 09 02 www.antoniaorganickitchen.com
For once, you won’t have to worry about space for seating—organic has enough room to fit an entire youth hostel and their luggage. A vegan buffet (€7) surprises and delights with croquettes, pasta, and salad fixings, while all vegetarian Mediterranean dishes will please even the most outspoken carnivores. Be sure to say thanks to Mother Earth as you leave—she’ll be looking down on you approvingly, surrounded by peas, earth, and fire, to your left.
Liceu. Walk down C. l’Hospital and take a left onto C. Junta de Comerç. Vegan salad buffet €7. Pizza €9. Menú €9.50. Open daily 12:30pm-midnight.
BAR RESTAURANT ELISABETS
C. Elisabets, 2-4
BAR, RESTAURANT
933 17 58 26
Hopping local bar by night, this crypt for decrepit old radios offers a daytime menu of cheap sandwiches and lighter fare (€2.40-3.45), as well as heavier homemade dishes (€6-12) and cheese and meat platters (€9-10) to satisy midday hunger. Be prepared to get cozy with a younger crowd no matter what time you eat.
Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers and take a right onto C. Elisabets.. Sandwiches €2.40-3. 45. Lunch menú €8.50. Tapas €2-3.55. Appetizers €2.40-3.50; entrees €6-12. Beer €1.40-2.15. Mixed drinks €5-7. Open M-F 7:30am-2am, Sa 7:30am-11pm.
CHULO
Pl. Vincenç Martorell
CAFE
933 02 40 95
Gold indoor couches and painted cherry trees inject a shabby chic upscale twist into the interior of this little cafe, but the real life is outside on the terrace in Plaça Vincenç Martorell, where it helps form the trifecta of cafes lining the side of the courtyard. Cheap breakfasts like the toasta with brie and tomato (€3.50) and bocadillos, like salmon and cream cheese (€4.90), make this cafe the best of the bunch.
Catalonia. When facing Las Ramblas, take the road to your right (C. de Petal) along the plaza. Turn left onto C. de Jovellanos at the end of the plaza. Follow C. de Jovellanos as it becomes C. de les Ramelleres, and Plaça de Vincenç Martorell is on the left. Breakfast €2-4.20. Sandwiches €4.50-5.50. Salad €5.75-7. Open daily 10am-midnight.
CAFE D’ANNUNZIO
Pl. Vincenç Martorell
CAFE
933 02 40 95
Rainbow stickers mark the glass doors of the last of the three cafes that line the arcade of Plaça Vincenç Martorell. Pictures of Venice and sculptures of Roman heads dress up the otherwise generic interior that sells delicious coffee supplied by Cafe del Dog. Sit inside to find an anachronistic, ill-fitting mix of ’80s alternative hits playing over the stereo.
Catalonia. When facing Las Ramblas, take the road to your right (C. de Petal) along the plaza. Turn left onto C. de Jovellanos at the end of the plaza. Follow C. de Jovellanos as it becomes C. de les Ramelleres, and Plaça de Vincenç Martorell is on the left. Appetizers €1.60-4. Platters €10-15. Beer €2.70-3. Sandwiches €5-8, small €3.25-5.50. Open daily 9:30am-1am.
L’Eixample
OMEÍA
C. Aragó, 211
JORDANIAN
93 452 31 79
When you’re (literally) sick of gorging yourself on cheap shwarma from stands, stop in to Omeía for some authentic Middle Eastern fare that will only make you regret not having a bigger stomach. Start off with their roasted red pepper soup (€6.50) and fill up with one of their traditional Jordanian dishes (€9-13). A word of advice: be prepared to take a long walk around the long blocks of l’Eixample after you finish to ease digestion.
Universitat. Walk on C. d’Aribau to the left of the University. Take a right onto C. Aragó. Starters €6-7. Entrees €6-13. Menú €7.50. Open daily 10am-4pm and 8pm-midnght.
EL JAPONES
Passatge de la Concepció, 2
JAPANESE, SUSHI
93 487 25 92 www.grupotragaluz.com
This sushi costs more than the price of your hostel for the night, but it’s more than worth shortening your trip. Bulk up on noodles or rice and order a mixed sushi platter (€10.50-21.80) for a cheaper (though by no means cheap) alternative. A sleek interior and romantic ambience makes for the perfect place to bring a date or make new friends.
Diagonal. Walk toward Passeig de Gràcia and take a right onto it. Take a right onto Passatge de la Concepció, the first smaller road on the right. Appetizers €5.70-10.20. Noodles €5.90-6. 40. Sushi €5-10. Sushi platters €10.50-21.80. Open M-W 1:30-4pm and 8:30pm-midnight, Th-Sa 1:30-4pm and 8:30pm-1am, Su 1:30-4pm and 8:30pm-midnight.
CERVESERIA CATALANA
C. Mallorca, 236
TAPAS, CATALAN
93 216 03 68
Tapas, flautas, seafood, burgers, beer, wine, and more—it’s easy to see why locals flock to Cerveseria Catalana’s warmly lit interior in the dark of night. During the evening hours, the bar and outdoor seats are abuzz with the lively chatter of 20-somethings, while the crowd gets older (though no less lively) as you move back through the proper tables. Plan on waiting to get a seat, or give in and join the barside party.
Diagonal. Walk away from Passeig de Gràcia and take a right onto Rambla de Catalonia. Take a right onto C. Mallorca. Starters €3.85. Salads €3.10-6.10. Tapas €3-12. Open daily 8am-1:30am.
FRIDA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT
C. Bruc, 119
MEXICAN
93 457 54 09
Reportedly the most authentic Mexican restaurant in Barcelona, Frida’s serves anti-TexMex quesadillas, tostadas, and a range of platos, including cochinita pibil (€11.65) and michoacan carnitas (€11.35), generally for much less than they’re worth. Kick back with a Jamaican-flavored margarita (€5.70) at the bar, sit under a fitting picture of Frida Kahlo, or take your food to go and picnic along nearby Passeig de Gràcia.
Girona. Walk on C. Girona toward C. Aragó and take a left onto C. de Mallorca. Frida’s is on the corner of Mallorca and Bruc. 5 tacos €9 Th and F. Salads €5.90-6.30. Tostadas and quesadillas €3. Entrees €7.80-11.35. Margaritas €5.70. Open Tu-Sa 1-4pm and 8:15pm-midnight.
MAURI
Rambla del Catalonia, 102 and 103
PASTRY SHOP, TEA SHOP, DELI
93 215 10 20 www.pasteleriasmauri.com
This tripartite pastry-deli-dessert shop has something to enchant whatever your hunger. Dine in the 102 shop over little sandwiches, croquettes, and croissants, or order something from the deli next door and dine in the wood and plaster salon. Across the street you’ll find their bomboneria and tearoom, offering adorable giftbaskets in case you’re looking to woo a fellow traveler.
Diagonal. Walk away from Passeig de Gràcia and take a right onto Rambla de Catalonia. The pastisseria is on the right and the tea shop on the left. Pastries and snacks €
1.50-2.50. Lunch menú €13. Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-9pm, Su 9am-3pm.
LAIE BOOKSTORE CAFE
C. Pau Claris, 85
CAFE, CATALAN
93 318 17 39 www.laie.es
Laie’s is the perfect place to curl up with a purchased book after impressing your friends with your memorization of one of their literary quotes along the windows. Choose from a sunny yellow backroom with palm trees and burlap shades or chill out in the dark, shaded couches of the front. A veggie-friendly snack bar with gourmet mini sandwiches and pastries provides snacks during the odd hours, while an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet satisfies the hunger knowledge can’t fill.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 190