• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Estació Barcelona-Sants ( Sants-Estació. Lockers €3-4.50 per day. Open daily 5:30am-11pm.)Estació Nord ( Arc de Trimof. Lockers €3.50-5 per day, 90-day limit.) El Prat Airport ( €3.80-4.90 per day.)
• GAY AND LESBIAN RESOURCES: GLBT tourist guide includes a section on GLBT bars, clubs, publications, and more (Pl. de Catalonia tourist office.) GAYBARCELONA (www.gaybarcelona.net.) and Infogal (www.colectiugai.org.) have up-to-date information. Barcelona Pride has annual activites during the last week of June ( www.pridebarcelona.org/en.) Antinous specializes in gay and lesbian books and films (C. Josep Anselm Clavé, 6 93 301 90 70 www.antinouslibros.com Drassanes Open M-F 10:30am-2pm and 5-8:30pm, Sa noon-2pm and 5-8:30pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Barcelona City Government offers free Wi-Fi access at over 500 places including some museums, parks, and sports centers. (www.bcn.es.) Easy Internet Cafe (La Rambla, 31 93 301 75 07 Liceu. Decent prices and around 300 terminals. €2.10 per hr., min. €2. 1-day unlimited pass €7; 1wk. €15; 1 mo. €30. Open daily 8am-2:30am.) Easy Internet Cafe (Ronda Universitat, 35. €2 per hour; day pass €3, 1 wk. €7, 1 mo. €15. Open daily 8am-2:30am.) Navegaweb (La Rambla, 88-94 93 318 90 26 [email protected] Liceu. €0.20 per min. to USA. Internet €2 per hour. Open M-Th 9am-midnight, F 9am-1am, Sa 9am-2am, Su 9am-midnight.) BCNet (Internet Gallery Cafe) (C. Barra de Ferro, 3 93 268 15 07 www.bornet-bcn.com. Jaume I. €1 for 15 min., €3 per hr., 10 hr. ticket €20. Open M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su noon-11pm.
• POST OFFICE: (Pl. d ‘Antoni López 90 219 71 97 www.correos.es Jaume I or Barceloneta. Open M-F 8:30am-9:30pm, Su noon-10pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 08001.
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 061.
• POLICE: Local police: 092. National police: 091. Tourist police (La Rambla, 4393 256 24 30 Liceu. Open 24hr.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACY: Rotates. Check any pharmacy window for the nearest on duty, contact the police, or call Información de Farmacias de Guardia (93 481 00 60).
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Clínic i Provincal (C. Villarroel, 170 93 227 54 00 Hospital Clínic. Main entrance at C. Roselló and C. Casanova.) Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau (93 291 90 00; emergency91 91 91 Vall d’Hebron.) Hospital del Mar (Pg. Marítim, 25-29 93 248 30 00 Ciutadella or Vila Olímpica.)
Getting There
By Plane
AEROPORT DEL PRAT DE LLOBREGAT BCN
08820 El Prat de Llobregat 93 478 47 04 for Terminal 1, 93 478 05 65 for Terminal 2B To get to Pl. Catalonia, take the Aerobus (92 415 60 20) in front of terminals 1 or 2 ( €5, round-trip ticket valid for 9 days €8.65. 35-40min.; every 6-15min. to Pl. Catalonia daily 6am-1am, to airport 5:30am-12:14am.) To the airport, the A1 bus takes you to Terminal 1, A2 bus to Terminal 2. For early morning flights, the Nitbus N17 runs from Pl. Catalonia to all terminals ( €1.40. from Pl. Catalonia every 20min. daily 11am-5am, from airport every hr. 9:50pm-4:50am.) Cheaper, and usually a bit faster, than the Aerobus is the RENFE train (90 224 34 02 €1.40 or free with T10 transfer from metro. 20-25min. to Estació Sants, 25-30min. to Pg. de Gràcia; every 30min., from airport 6am-11:38pm, from Estació Sants to airport 5:35am-11:09pm.) To reach the train from Terminal 2, take the pedestrian overpass in front of the airport (it’s on the left when your back is to the entrance). For those arriving at Terminal 1, a shuttlebus is available outside the terminal to take you to the train station.
Sants-Estació. Info and last-minute accommodation bookings, as well as transport connections from the airport to the city center and other locations. Open daily 9am-9pm.
AEROPORT DE GIRONA GRO
90 240 4704 www.girona-airport.net
Transport to Barcelona is available from the airport by Barcelona Bus ( €12, round-trip €21. 1hr. 10min. from Girona to Estacio d’Autobusos Barcelona Nord Buses from the airport to Estacio d ‘Autobusos Barcelona Nord are timed to match flight arrivals. Buses from Estacio d ‘Autobuses arrive at Girona Airport approximately 3hr. before flight departures. Open 24hr.
By Train
Depending on the destination, trains can be an economical option. Travelers may find trains at Estació Barcelona-Sants in Pl. Països Catalans (Sants Estació) for most domestic and international traffic, while Estació de Franca on Av. Marques de l’Argentera (Barceloneta) serves regional destinations and a limited number of international locations. Note that trains often stop before the main stations; check the schedule. RENFE (reservations and info 90 224 02 02, international 24 34 02 www.renfe.es) runs to Bilbao, Madrid, Sevilla, and Valencia in Spain. Trains also travel to Milan (via Turin and Figueres) in Italy and Montpellier in France, with connections to Geneva, Paris, and the French Riviera. There’s a 20% discount on round-trip tickets. Call or check website for train times and seasonal schedules.
By Bus
Buses are often considerably cheaper than the train and should be considered for those traveling within the region on a budget. The city’s main bus terminal is Barcelona Nord Estació d’Autobuses (902 26 06 06 www.barcelonanord.com Arc de Triomf or #54 bus), with buses also departing from the Estació Sants and the airport. Sarfa (Ticket office at Ronda Sant Pere, 21 90 230 20 25 www.sarfa.es) is the primary line, but Eurolines (93 265 07 88 www.eurolines.es) also goes to Paris via Lyon and offers a 10% discount to travelers under 26 or over 60. ALSA/ENATCAR (90 242 22 42; www.alsa.es) goes to Alicante, Bilbao, Madrid, Sevilla, Valencia, and Zaragoza.
By Ferry
Ferries to the Baleares Islands, Mallorca, and Ibiza leave daily from the port of Barcelona at Terminal Drassanes (93 324 89 80) and Terminal Ferry de Barcelona (93 295 91 82 Drassanes). The most popular ferries are run by Transmediterránea (902 45 46 45 www.transmediterrana.es) in Terminal Drassanes.
Getting Around
By Metro
The mode of transportation used most in the city is the Barcelona Metro (93 318 70 74 www.tmb.cat). Get to know it well—the extensive train and bus system provides cheap, easy access to nearly the entire city. Different lines are identified by L and then their number (L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L8, L10, L11). Trains run Monday through Thursday and Sundays from 5am to midnight, Friday and days prior to holidays 5am to 2am, and Saturday all day. Stops are marked by a red sign with a white capital M.
By Bus
For more remote or hard-to-access places, the bus may be an important complement to the metro during your journey. Barcelona’s tourist office also offers a Tourist Bus (bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com 1 day €22) that frequents sights of particular interest in the city and allows riders to hop on and off for a 24hr. period. Depending on how much you plan to use the route (and how much you loathe hopping off of a red double decker labeled “Tourist Bus” when you’re traveling), the bus may be a worthwhile investment upon arriving in the city.
Rentals
Motocicletas (motos for short—scooters, and less frequently motorcycles) are a common sight, and bicycles are also becoming more popular. Many institutions rent motos by hour, day, and month, but you need a valid driver’s license recognized in Spain in order to rent one for personal use. Many places also offer bike rental. If you will be staying in the city for an extended period, it is possible to buy a bike secondhand or register for Bicing (902 31 55 31 www.bicing.cat), the municipal red and white bikes.
By Taxi
When all other cheaper and more exciting options fail, Barcelona offers a taxi service to get you back home safely on those nights when revelry lasts after metro hours. The official taxi service is Radio Taxi (93 225 00 00) and is identifiable by the black and yellow cars.
granada
858 or 958
So Let’s Go rents a time machine, and it’s the 15th century. You’re the queen of Spain (a queen who supposedly wore the same dress for the entire extent of her reign, no less), and you can live anywhere in your kingdom. Where do you choose to reside? If you’re Isabela la Católica, the Spanish queen who, with the help of her far-less-powerful husband, Ferdinand, gobbled up the Iberian peninsula for th
e sake of the kingdom and the church, then you’re picking Granada. In 1492, Granada had spent centuries under Moorish Rule, and Boabdil, the last sultan on the Iberian Peninsula, was holding strong to his city while his brethren fell left and right. However, with a little persuasion and a whole lot of gold, Isabela was one persuasive lady. It may look like she’s holding a grenade in all the city statues, but the city got taken without a drip of bloodshed, and she’s really just gripping a pomegranate. This city symbol was part of Granada’s draw—the citrus fruits like figs, oranges, and pomegranates were making bank for Boabdil, so the Spaniards wanted the goods.
Now let’s fast-forward a good couple of hundred years. Today, you have a city still glowing with a North African influence, including stunning remnants of Boabdil’s crown like the Alhambra. You have a combination of Mediterranean, Moroccan, and Spanish cuisine on every block. Excitement from the urban, commercial city center, all the way into the hippie-inhabited caves of Sacramonte give this city an energy unlike any other. Granada may have a population under 250,000, but you pack that crowd into a small city without anything but mountains for hours, and it can feel like NYC. So enjoy the high-speed lifestyle in Realejo and by the university, and then get in touch with the nearby nature.
ORIENTATION
Plaza Nueva
The area around Plaza Nueva connects main street Calle Gran Vía to the more northern Albacin region that holds La Alhambra. All the Moroccan restaurants, tea stops, shops, and hookah bars can be found around Calle Cria Nueva and Calderería Vieja, and there are plenty of falafel options and tapas bars on Calle Elvira. Follow Calle Santa Ana up towards the Alhambra, and you’ll travel along old, picturesque streets. Generally, the streets are small and winding, so make sure to bring a map. One of the main squares of the city is Plaza San Nicolas; and the adjacent Mirador Nicolas is one of the best places to get a view of the Alhambra. You’ll also find a fresh produce market in Plaza Larga. Furthest north, the Sacromonte region is generally classified as the hippie and gypsy area of Granada.
Catedral and University
South of Calle Gran Vía, the streets become much more organized and manageable. This area is right by the university, and the student vibe is strong. School-supply shops, bookstores, and cafes with internet can be found on nearly every corner. Plaza Trinidad and Plaza Bib Rambia are lined with restaurants and small shops, and they’re great places to stop for relaxing meals or some retail therapy. Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcon is a great street for late-night tapas and drinks, especially if you’re looking to run into the student crowd. If you’re looking to relax with some reading or a picnic, Parque Fuente Nueva ( Open daily 8am-10pm.) is a student favorite, located right around university grounds.
Elsewhere
You’ll find Granada’s commercial district along Calle Reyes Catolicos and Arcera del Darro—the shops get bigger, the streets get wider, and the general effort of the city grows with decorations, fountains, and landscaping as you walk closer to the intersection. This area, Realejo, is a wonderful spot to explore on a weekend stroll. You’ll find families brunching and relaxing on Carrera del Genil, some of the city’s most traditional tapas along Calle Navas, and a major square with lots of food options at Campo Principe.
Located around the outskirts of the city clockwise from the Alhambra, you’ll find the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the major science center Parque de las Ciencias, the Parque Garcia Lorca, the Renfe and bus stations, and La Cartuja.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Plaza Nueva
OASIS GRANADA
Pl. Correo Viejo, 3
HOSTEL
958 215 848 www.oasisgranada.com
This hostel chain definitely has hostel living down to a science. Arriving at Oasis Granada, you’re guaranteed one of the most luxurious, convenient, and generally pleasant hostel stays around. With top-notch facilities including a massive cafeteria (where your free breakfast is served), full bar (with a free drink upon arrival and nightly happy hour), and a rooftop terrace to soak up some sun, this place really delivers on the promise of its name. If you can get yourself to leave, Oasis will make sure you’re acquainted with the city in a variety of ways. Check out the welcome board in front to get the daily list of activities, including themed tours. Socialize at the evening dinner parties or tapas outings, use their friendly staff to get some nightlife tips, and then come home to your multi-room dorm suite with a thick mattress, clean sheets, and a fuzzy blanket to keep you cozy. The only drawback of living in an oasis is that you won’t be alone: this busy accommodation is always overflowing with partiers on the weekends.
From the bus station, take bus #3 or 33 to Gran Vía de Colon 1, make a right onto Carcel Baja and a left onto Placeta Correo Viejo. Breakfast included. Towel rental €1. Free activities and tours. Dorms €15-18. Reception 24hr. Breakfast 8am-11am.
PENSIÓN BRITZ
C. Cuesta de Gomerez, 1
PENSIÓN
958 223 652 www.lisboaweb.com
While high-quality backpackers’ hostels can be found all around the area, that type of stay isn’t for everyone. For the more selective voyager, Pensión Britz provides a great private alternative. You’ll find your quiet room with large armoir, checkered comforter and drapes, and particularly springy mattress to be a great place to relax in peace. The rooms with ensuite bathrooms are definitely a bit more expensive, but they are larger and brighter than the other rooms, which only have a sink in the corner of the room. The spunky Spanish staff will hop out of their seats to help you plan reservations and tours at all the sights and fight to get you special offers around town. If you’re planning a longer stay, they may even offer to include breakfast if you ask nicely enough.
C. Reyes Católicos becomes Pl. Santa Ana and Cuesta Romerez branches off to the right. Ventilation in rooms. Washing machine available. Singles €17-25, with bath €33-38; doubles €30-36, with bath €40-48; triples €45-48, with bath €51-57; quads €50-55, with bath €60-68. Reception 24hr.
Catedral and University
FUNKY BACKPACKERS
C. Conde de las Infantes
HOSTEL
958 800 058 [email protected]
Funky Backpackers describes itself as the “multicultural” hostel of Granada, and we couldn’t agree more. You’ll find murals from all over the world all over the walls, nightly dinners of international cuisine (€4-5), and a full cultural activity agenda including salsa dancing, flamenco shows, inter-language discussions, and music jam sessions. Regardless of your cultural background, it’s impossible not to be stunned and impressed by the dorm living—each room has a kitchen, sofa, and lockable private closet. The English-speaking staff has the knowledge to answer even the most difficult tourist questions, and there are schedules and travel ideas posted around the lobby. If you’ve stayed or plan to stay at Picasso’s Corner in Málaga or Terrace Backpackers in Córdoba, you’ll get a 10% discount off the already shockingly low prices.
Conde de las Infantes intersects with Plaza Trinidad. Credit card min. €50; €1 surcharge for smaller sums. Breakfast included. Female-only dorms available. 7-bed dorm €12.75; 6-bed €13.35-€15.75; 4-bed €16.75; female-only €16.75. Doubles €38. Reception 24hr.
HOSPEDAJE ALMOHADA
C. Postigo de Zarate, 4
HOSTAL
958 207 446 www.laalmojada.com
Admit it—you used to play those simulation computer games with your friends (or more likely by yourself) where you’d build a cute little cyber-house and have little people try to live inside of it. Well, if you could design the cutest, quaintest, just-pinch-its-cheeks home, it might look a bit like Hospedaje Almohada. From the colorful and cushioned living room with packed bookshelves and a TV to the fully stocked kitchen and bright patio dining space, you’ll be itching to relax or cook yourself up something warm and yummy. The entire place is even decorated, and you’ll find classic Andalucian paintings on all the walls along the hallways and inside the rooms. These private abodes are c
lean, quiet, and spacious and equipped with sink, bedside tables, and even a small seating area.
From Pl. Trinidad, take C. Trinidad to the T intersection and make a right onto Postigo de Zarate. Towels and linens included. Singles €20; doubles €36; triples €51. Reception 9:30am-3pm and 4:30-9:30pm.
Elsewhere
ALBERQUE INTURJOVEN GRANADA (HI)
C. Ramon y Cajal, 2
HOSTEL
958 002 900 www.inturjoven.com
Run by the Andalucian government, Inturjoven hostels like this gem always feel particularly safe and organized. Even though Alberque Inturjoven Granada is situated in a more industrial area south of the university that has quite the assortment of graffiti, the hostel is a nice escape from the surroundings. Rooms are big and simple, each with large closets and tons of space. Even though it’s not centrally located, the nearby Camino Ronda bus stops catch a wide array of city lines. Despite the hostel not having a public kitchen, daily meals are offered and vending machines line every floor.
Take the circular bus lines (#11, 21, or 23) to Camino Ronda 10 and turn right at Ramon y Cajal. Parking available. Towels €2. Breakfast €2; lunch and dinner €8. Ages 25 and under singles €16-19; doubles €16-19; triples €16-19. Ages 26 and over singles €22-25; doubles €22-25; triples €22-25. Reception 24hr.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 195