• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: You can use any of the banks that line the Av. de La Rioja on the western edge of the Paseo del Espolón. ( Most open M-F 9am-2pm, though hours vary depending on the bank).
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: This is available at the bus station ( €2 Open M-Sa 6am-11pm, Su 7am-11pm) and train station ( €3 Open 24hr.).
• POST OFFICE: The post office or correos is four blocks west of the bus station on C. Pérez Galdós—don’t forget to send everyone postcards (C. Pérez Galdós, 40. Open M-F 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 26001.
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Medical Emergency: 061.
• POLICE: To get to the local police station take C. Sagasta toward the river and turn right at C. Ruavieja; the police station is on the left after 2 blocks (092).
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Go to Hospital San Pedro (C. Piqueras, 98, on Pl. de San Pedro, 941 29 80 00.)
Getting There
By Bus
The bus station (Av. de España, 1 941 23 59 83) is a couple of blocks north of the train station. Buses from: Barcelona ( €28. 2½hr., 5 per day 8am-11pm.); Bilbao ( €13. 2½hr.; M-F 5 per day 7:30am-8pm, Sa 4 per day 8:30am-8pm, Su 4 per day 8:30am-9pm.); Burgos ( €10. 1¼hr.; M-F 7 per day 8:30am-9:30pm, Sa 5 per day 8:30am-7:45pm, Su 4 per day 2-7:45pm.); Madrid ( €16-21. 4½hr.; M-Sa 13 per day 7am-1am, Su 18 per day 7am-1am.); Pamplona. ( €8. 1¾hr.; M-F 8 per day 6:45am-8pm, Sa 7 per day 7:30am-8pm, Su 5 per day 10am-8pm.)
By Train
The train station (Pl. de Europa, 902 24 02 02) is located on the south end of town, a 15min. walk from center. Daily RENFE Alvia trains ( €56; if booked more than a week in advance €33.) leave from Madrid’s Atocha Station ( 3½hr.; M-F 6:30pm, Su 6:30pm.) and goes back to Madrid. ( 3¼hr.; M-Sa 7:50am.) Trains from: Barcelona ( 4hr., 5 per day, 7:30am-10:45pm. €40-64.); Bilbao ( 2½hr., 7:45am and 3:30pm €21.); Burgos ( 1¾hr., 3 per day, 1:20-9am. €19-21.); Zaragoza ( 2hr., 8 per day 3am-10:15pm. €12-22.)
By Plane
Iberia (902 40 05 00 www.iberia.com) offers daily flights from Madrid ( If purchased 6 days in advance €85. 50min.; 8-9pm.), which arrive at Aeropuerto de Logrono-Agoncillo (Carretera LO-20, 15km from city center 941 27 74 00).
Getting Around
Logroño is a great city to walk: the casco antiguo is almost entirely car-free, leaving it a pedestrian paradise. While it’s nice to callejear (“meander through the streets,” a wonderful word for which there’s no accurate English equivalent) a bit sometimes, if you’re in a rush to get somewhere or simply enjoy walking with purpose, make sure you plan your route beforehand, as many of the older streets are narrow and confusingly unmarked. For those interested in exploring parts of the city farther from the center or too lazy to walk to the train station, there is a bus system (€0.60, 10-trip bonobús €4.52, 1-month bonobús €29). Taxis can be found at the bus station (941 23 75 29) or can be called: Radio-taxi (941 22 21 22) and Tele-taxi (941 50 50 50) are the main companies.
majorca mallorca
971
Since 7000 BCE, people have been using Majorca as an island pit stop in the Mediterranean. Whether it was the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, or the Catalonians, it was always take, take, and more take. Majorca was convenient. It was the biggest island of the Balearics. It had a varied landscape. But over the past 9000 years or so, Majorca has taken a stand, and it isn’t going to be pushed around any longer.
We’re not going to suggest that Majorca is a spiteful up-and-comer. On the contrary, its rich, multicultural history contributes to the island culture today. Sights like the Catedral and Castell de Bellver are glowing reminders of all the people who were lucky enough to visit centuries ago, while museums like the Fundacio Pilar i Joan Miro suggest that even some of the most talented greats of our time proudly called Majorca home. This “island of calm,” as famous Spanish poet Ruben Dario described it, now offers luxurious resorts, delicious local cuisine, abundant shopping options, and a thriving athletic culture centered around biking and aquatic sports. You can tan beside the turquoise waters of this summertime gem by day, and check out the clubs, bars, and restaurants around Palma’s port all night. Majorca is mature—it wants to give you relaxation and fun, with some education along the way.
ORIENTATION
The city of Palma is organized around its major plazas. Plaza Espanya is the major transit center where the train and metro stations can be accessed and where many of the tour buses congregate. Plaza Mayor has some patio restaurants, street performers, and small kiosk shops, and is surrounded by small streets open only to foot traffic. Calle San Miguel and Calle Sindicat near the plaza are packed with small restaurants, cafes, and shops. Plaza Rei Joan Carles I is the center of the high-end, expensive shopping in Palma that extends onto Avenida Jaime III, Calle Unio, and Passeig des Born. The Paseo Maritimo curves around the port, where you’ll find many of the most popular clubs and nightlife destinations.
ACCOMMODATIONS
While the city of Palma is definitely the center of the island, this center isn’t necessarily catering to budget travel. If you’re looking for cheaper rooms, inexpensive and thriving nightlife, and some beach time, the nearby town of Arenal is only a 25min. bus ride out of Palma on the Playa de Palma.
In Arenal
HOSTAL TIERRAMAR
C. Berlin, 9
HOSTAL
971 262 751 www.hostaltierramar.com
One of the most popular accommodations in Arenal (and that’s saying something—this whole town is packed with hostels), Hostal Tierramar knows how to provide a comfortable stay for the beach-minded. Enjoy sizable rooms with tiled floors and colorful sheets that light up when you open up your window to the ocean views. Your massive bathroom is the perfect place to scrub the sand and sunscreen from your body, and the first-floor cafeteria will give you the opportunity to get a book from the library, shoot some pool, or enjoy basic snacks and sandwiches 24hr. a day. At Tierramar, you’re steps from the shining blue waters of the Playa de Palma—as well as a direct bus ride into the city (lines #15 and #25).
Take bus #21 from the airport to the last stop at Playa de Palma and walk back two blocks from the stop to C. Berlin. Breakfast, sheets, towels included. Singles €26-32; doubles €38-47; triples €57. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL LEBLON
C. Trasimero, 67
BUDGET HOTEL
971 490 200 [email protected]
Hotel Leblon would be an easy bet in a boxing match—it’s a hotel-quality accommodation that keeps its prices competing in the budget ring, and shares a reception with the even cheaper Sol de Mallorca. The rose-colored sheets near your large closet and decorative art is just the beginning. Make your way down to the first-floor bar, colorfully decorated with liquors and syrups, and order up a cocktail (€3.50) or snack all day long. The pool out back is decorated with nautical tiles and overflowing with neon floatie toys, so hopefully you’ll still have time to swim a lap or two after spending the day at the nearby Playa de Palma.
Take bus #21 from the airport to the last stop at Playa de Palma and walk back two blocks from the stop to C. Berlin, which intersects C. Trasimero. Breakfast, sheets, and towels included. Pool available. Restaurant. Bike rentals €6. Doubles €40; triples €45. Reception 24hr.
In Palma
HOSTAL RITZI
C. Apuntadores, 6
HOSTAL
971 714 610 www.hostalritzi.com
Hostal Ritzi is a prime cut of convenience—you’re steps from one of Palma’s main plazas and paying a price that’s more suited for a room in Arenal. This hostal totally embraces the bed-and-breakfast vibe: you’ll get a warm welcome from the friendly staff, a spacious but homey room, and comfy green couches in the common area. Enjoy a full breakfast in the morning in the bright dining room or on the outdoor patio, and then make your way out onto the town.
C. Apuntadores branches off Plaza Reina. Breakfast, sheets, and towels included. Singles €30; doubles
€55-70. Extra bed €20. Reception 8:30am-midnight.
SIGHTS
CASTELL DE BELLVER
C. Camilo Jose Cela, 17
HISTORICAL SITE, CASTLE, PRISON
971 735 065
Every kid dreams of visiting a castle—especially one nestled up in the mountains with stone towers, a deep moat, and high ceilings. However, the Castell de Bellver didn’t last as a castle for long. Although intended to be a royal residence for the Catholic kings when visiting the island, this structure has actually spent much of its history serving as a fortified, high-security prison. Exploring the grounds, you’ll enjoy the best views of all of Majorca, the colorful tapestries and marble statues filling the rooms, and a fascinating exhibit about one of Bellver’s most famous prisoners, Gaspar Melchor Jovellanos, the Enlightenment thinker locked up for simply being “different.” While this Euro-Gothic sight may require quite the hike to arrive at the main gates (unless you take the bus which drops you at the doorstep), enjoy the exercise and climb the steps—we promise it’s worth the trek.
Take bus #3 or #46 to Plaza Gomila and take C. Bellver to the top. Tour bus takes you directly to the sight. Information in English and Spanish. €2.50, students under 18 €1. Open June-Sept M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm, Su 10am-5pm; Oct-May M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, Su 10am-5pm.
FUNDACIO PILAR I JOAN MIRO
C. Saridakis, 29
MUSEUM
971 701 420 miro.palma.cat
There are many people in this world who have a strong pride in their home town—how else would we end up with songs like I Love LA or Cleveland Rocks?—but not many people can turn that pride into something as fascinating and beautiful as the Fundacio Pilar. Creator Juan Miró spent his childhood summers in Majorca with his grandmother, escaped to the island during the Nazi invasion of France, and permanently moved to Palma in 1956. Even though he wasn’t a resident until later in life, Miro still had an attachment to the capital and decided to donate his entire studio space and much of his collection to the city. Today, the Fundacio Pilar i Joan Miro not only holds about 2500 pieces by the artist, but also provides you with the chance to see his studios. You’ll see easels and paintings in the Taller Sert, designed by exiled architect and close friend Josep Sert, as well as a large collection of original grafitti in the San Boter.
Take bus #3 or #46 to Marivent and then follow the signs up to the Fundacio. Information in English and Spanish. €6, students €3, free on Sa. Open May 16-Sept 15 T-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-3pm; Sept 16-May 15 T-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-3pm.
PALACIO REAL DE LA ALMUDIANA
C. Palau Reyal
PALACE
971 214 134 www.patrimonionacional.es
Although this massive stone structure right on the shores of Majorca was originally constructed for Muslim royalty during the 10th century, Jaime II’s arrival in Majorca marked a time for change. This first Catholic monarch of the island left a few remnants of the Arab constructions, but from the second he placed the cross-holding angel on top of Torre de Angel, it was clear that no one would be praying towards Mecca in this house. While many couples settle for the his-and-hers towels or coffee mugs, Spanish monarchs took things a step further—the Palacio Real has separate residences, orchards, and chapels for the Queen and King, all wonderfully decorated with pointed ceilings, colorful tapestries, and furniture. You can even wander through the original Arab baths used more for luxury than hygiene.
Take the steps near Plaza Reyna. Entrance is between the palace and the Catedral. Information available in English and Spanish. Tours arranged based on demand. €3.20, students €2.30. Tours €4. Audio tours €2.50. Open Apr-Sept M-F 10am-5:45pm, Sa 10am-1:15pm; Oct-Mar M-F 10am-1:15pm and 4-5:15pm, Sa 10am-1:15pm.
FOOD
Majorca has quite the selection of international cuisine. Walking the streets of Palma, you’ll come across many tapas bars and Spanish restaurants, but there are also tons of ethnic options. This island makes the most of its coastline—if you’re looking for fresh seafood, just explore the larger restaurants on the Paseo Maritimo or leading up to Plaza Reina. You should also take advantage of the traditional Majorcan dishes. Fried mallorqui (fried offal, potatos, tomatos, and onions), vegetable trumbet (eggplant, peppers, potatos, tomatos, and onions), toasty pa amb oli (bread topped with tomato, oil, and salt with cheese, fish, or meats), and savory sabrosada (pork and pepper pâté) are some of the local specialities.
LA CUEVA
C. Apuntadores, 5
TRADITIONAL
971 724 422
While La Cueva (the cave) lives up to its name with an undergound location and low ceilings, this bright, traditional destination wouldn’t suit any stalagtites, pirates, or even Batman. La Cueva’s menu is simple, with a long list of classic Spanish tapas served up at full ración sizes. You can see all your options sitting behind the bar, and the chef constantly cooks up more food to refill these deep-dish platters. Locals devour the gambas al ajillo, (shrimp with garlic sauce; €12) and massive platters of traditional jamon jagubo (€14, large €22). You may have to fight your way through the crowd congregating outside the door, but it’s worth the wait.
C. Apuntadores branches off Plaza Reina. Raciones €5-18. Open M-Sa noon-midnight.
CAFE COTO
Plaza Drassana, 12
INTERNATIONAL, MAJORCAN
636 096 126 www.bar-coto.com
Cafe Coto certainly knows how to be bold—the hot pink exterior, massive flowers growing up the gates, burning red interior walls, golden tables, and giant Frida Kahlo paintings certainly make a statement. However, the decor isn’t the only thing making a statement at this cute patio-cafe. The international menu provides a wide array of homemade options to cure any craving. Indian dishes like the goat cheese with homemade mango chutney (€6.50) and Sri Lankan soups (€5.50) can transport you to anywhere on the globe. If you’d prefer some local flavor classic Mallorcan pa amb olis (€6.50) or a Spanish tapa tasting platters (small €8; large €15). Freshly baked desserts like the warm apple strudel make the daily menú (€10) even more tempting.
From Plaza Reyna, take C. Apuntadores and make a left into the Plaza. Entrees €5.50-9.50. Salads €8.50. Sandwiches €3-4. Desserts €2-8. Menú of the day €10. Open M-F 8am-1am, Sa-Su 9am-1am..
THE GUINESS HOUSE
Parc de la Mar
CAFE, BAR
Disclaimer: we understand that The Guiness House is innately touristy and that the menu isn’t exactly creative, but the location and ambience make this spot one that you just can’t skip. Located right on the waters of the Parc de la Mar with the city’s best view of the Catedral, there’s no better place to enjoy a summer afternoon snack. Busiest during the open hours of the Catedral, as visitors work up quite the appetite after gazing at Gaudi’s glorious canopy, it also draws a crowd in summer evenings with open-air movies (9pm July-Aug). For all you beer connoisseurs out there, The Guinness House lives up to its name with a lengthy list of international cervesas on tap or by the bottle (€2.60-4.60), served up at the outdoor patio bar or the even larger tavern bar inside the restaurant.
On Parc de la Mar across from the Cathedral. Outdoor movies available July-Aug. Sandwiches €4.85-5.90. Entrees €6.70-12.90 Salads €6.50-7.80. Pizzas €6.50. Burgers €4.75-7. 25. Open daily 8am-2am.
NIGHTLIFE
Around the streets of Palma, near the main plazas and city center, you’ll come across a few late-night, loungey cafes and mellow bars, but the real nightlife is concentrated along the Paseo Maritimo. Take a walk along this pathway, checking out all those fancy yachts in the harbor as you go, and 10min. away from the Catedral, things will start to heat up.
MOJITO SOUL
Paseo Maritimo, 27
BAR
www.mojitosoul.com
You may currently associate nature, envy, and marshmallow breakfast cereals with the color green, but one night out on the Paseo Maritimo and you may start to think of Mojito Soul every time you encounter that portion of the color wheel. That’s be
cause the entire place is lit by glowing green lights. The DJ spins a mix of soul and R and B hits to entertain the young, international crowd as they try to answer the eternal question—another daiquiri (€8) or another dance. While 75% of bars and clubs in Spain will tell you that they specialize in mojitos and caipirinas, here’s a spot that actually deserves that accolade. You can try 7 varieties of each of these drinks (€8), whether in their classic form or with a fruity twist like strawberry, peach, or passionfruit.
On Paseo Maritimo on the inland side. Cocktails €8. Open daily in summer 9pm-4am; in winter 10pm-3am.
GIBSON
Plaza Mercat, 18
BAR
971 716 404
Unless you’ve spent quite a few years at bartending school, Gibson will likely be a learning experience. The lengthy menu (5 pages of whiskeys alone) lists drinks in varieties you never knew existed, but at least it features detailed explanations and histories at the bottom of each page. The house specialty dry martinis come in 14 styles, but the Gibson Dry is definitely the most popular, combining gin, vermouth, a small onion, and lemon zest (€6.50). Cockails like the “bull shot” (€7) may be a test of testosterone levels, but you can also enjoy a simple caipirinha with or without alcohol (€7). Gibson’s open all day long, and we won’t judge if you’re looking for that 8am Bloody Mary (€7), but you can also enjoy a simple coffee (€1.50) on the outdoor patio.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 200