Directly across Avenida de Portugal from the Prado of San Sebastian. Free. Open daily 7am-11pm.
LA CATEDRAL
Entrance by Pl. de la Virgen de los Reyes
CHURCH
954 214 971
This isn’t just any old church. The Cathedral happens to be the world’s largest Gothic building and the third-largest church, holding these literally huge distinctions with pride. The city restricts any construction project from exceeding 100m to ensure that the Jiralda Tower of the Cathedral remains the highest point in Sevilla. The church itself has a rich history of the Sevillian shift from Moorish to Catholic control. The tall, thin Jiralda Tower was mysteriously the only portion of the Islamic mosque to survive an earthquake in 1365. The stained-glass windows and gold-plated religious scenes lining the interior are worth checking out, as they have a Moorish-Catholic flare that traditional Renaissance churches lack. Watch out for the ambush of “religious” palm readers at the exit: they’ll grab you, tell you how many kids you’re bound to have, and then guilt you into tipping.
Located off Avenida de la Constitucion next to the Alcazar. €7.50, students €2. Open July-Aug M-Sa 11am-5pm, Su 9:30am-4pm; Sept-June M-Sa 11am-5pm, Su 2:30pm-6pm.
THE ALCAZAR
Patio de Bandera
HISTORIC SIGHT, FORTRESS
954 502 323 [email protected]
Don’t stress about getting your black tie back from the dry cleaners before visiting the Alcazar. While it does double as the summer palace for Spanish royalty, it also makes a great casual stop on any visit to Santa Cruz. After the Romans originally constructed the walls to protect the city, the Moors then expanded them into an all-out fortress to protect against enemy advances on Sevilla. Once the Catholics took over, they converted the fortress into a palace, somehow overcoming the irony of being peace-loving Christian monarchs residing in a Muslim establishment. Rich with honorary sites for icons such as Dona Maria de Padilla, the woman who threw boiling oil in her face to stop King Frederic from making moves on her (you’d think she would’ve just stopped showering), the Alacazar has a new story around every corner. The orange trees lining the outdoor plazas provide a picture-perfect splash of color.
Located off the back corner of La Catedral, off Plaza de Triunfo. €7.50, students free. Open April-Sept M-Sa 9:30am-7pm; Oct-Mar daily 9:30am-5pm.
UNIVERSIDAD DE SEVILLA
C. San Fernando, 4
UNIVERSITY
954 551 000 http://www.us.es/
If every college in the world looked like this, we’d probably have far more productive youth. The Universidad de Sevilla is the second-largest building in all of Spain and uses every square inch to saturate you with impressive and breathtaking architecture. While the library and computers are only available to students and university personnel, the open stone courtyards lined with statues of religious and historic Spanish figures are the perfect place for some reading, writing, or a siesta. If you think you’re too cool for school, consider that this university has quite the rebellious history. Originally built as a tobacco factory, the establishment once employed the “deadly sexy” Carmen, namesake of the traditional Sevillian song. And if you’re interested in picking up some knowledge while spending time in Sevilla, the university provides a wide array of extension classes.
Down the block from Prado de San Sebastian. 3min. walk from Estacion de Prado. Free. M-Sa 7am-9:45pm.
El Centro
MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO
Manuel Rojas Marcos 3
MUSEUM
954 340 311 www.museoflamenco.com
This museum is the one-stop shop for all things flamenco. Walking through the halls of this high-tech, automated museum, you’ll be bombarded by movies, photography, and artifacts explaining the rich history of flamenco in Sevilla. Be sure to check out the dress worn during the opening ceremonies of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics for a piece of hip-shaking history. After you’re done with the techy side of this museum’s entertainment, look at the 300-year-old, underground Moorish gallery that holds classic flamenco photographs. The museum offers live flamenco performances in the evenings, and, if you’re not too shy, try your hand at some dancing with the professionals and get your groove on, Sevillian style. The performers from the evening shows teach a quick, 20 minute class open to the public at 7:30pm M-Th.
From the Catedral, take C. Argote de Molina, turn left onto C. Estrella, and then turn left onto Manuel Rojas Marcos; the museum will be on the right. Exhibits in English and Spanish. €10, students €8. Flamenco performances M-Th €15, students €12; F-Sa €23/20. Flamenco classes €10. Museum open daily 9:30am-7pm. Flamenco performances M-Th 7pm, F-Sa 7:30pm. Flamenco classes M-Th 6:30pm.
MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES
Plaza del Museo 9
MUSEUM
954 786 500 www.museodeandalucia.es
The most user-friendly museum you’ll ever encounter, the Museo de Bellas Artes is organized in such a way that you walk from room to room through a chronological journey of the history of Sevillian and Spanish art. Starting in the medieval period and progressing to the 20th century, the museum even devotes entire rooms to its favorite artists, including Murillo, Valdés Leal, and Zurbarán. The courtyards are also definitely worth exploring.
At intersection of C. Alfonso XII and C. San Vicente. Lockers available €1. Exhibitions rotated throughout the year. €1.50, free with EU passport. Open Tu-Sa 9am-8:30pm, Su 9am-2:30pm.
La Macarena
On paper, La Macarena may look like church upon church (with maybe a convent or basilica thrown in for variety), and that’s just what you’ll find. That’s not to say that the religious history found in La Macarena is not unique at each of its sights. With some exploration, you’ll come away with a much better understanding of Semana Santa and Feria de Abril, two of Sevilla’s most important festivals.
BASÍLICA DE SAN LORENZO Y JESUS DE GRAN PODER
Plaza de San Lorenzo, 13
CHURCH
954 915 686 www.gran-poder.es
This church combo is one of the most ornate and impressive around. When facing the duo, the Basílica de San Lorenzo is on the left and is filled with golden artwork, glistening altars, and wall-covering frescos. The Basílica de Jesus de Gran Poder sticks to its name—it’s one powerful place. Even the entirely marble, circular main room pales in comparison to the massive altar in the center. The tall golden statue of Jesus adorned with purple robes and carrying the cross is the main sight of this basilica. People from all over line up to pass behind the statue, showing reverence by kissing the ankle and saying a quick prayer—just make sure not to leave any lipstick stains!
From Alameda, take C. Santa Ana and turn left onto C. Santa Clara; the Plaza and churches are on the right. Free. Basilica open M-Th 8am-1:30pm and 6-9pm, F 7:30am-10pm, Sa-Su 8am-2pm and 6-9pm. Mass M-Th 9:30am, 10:30am, 12:30pm, 6:30pm, 7:30pm, 8:30pm; Sa 9:30am, 10:30am, 1:15pm, 7:30pm, 8:30pm; Su 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 1:30pm, 7:30pm, 8:30pm.
BASÍLICA LA MACARENA AND HEMANDAD DE LA MACARENA MUSEUM
C. Becker 1, 3
CHURCH
954 901 800 www.hermandaddelamacarena.es
Upon walking into the Basílica La Macarena, you will be immediately impressed by the highly ornate altars and stunning artwork decorating the ceiling. But let’s be honest—if you’ve been traveling through La Macarena, you’ve seen a bunch of awe-inspiring churches at this point. What makes this one special is the history connected to this namesake of the neighborhood. Upon visiting the museum attached to the basilica, you’ll learn all about the history of the Semana Santa (holy week) festivities in Sevilla. You’ll hear tales of the Hermandad, or religious brotherhood, that has now become a main icon of this holy week. Perfectly preserved documents, books, tapestries, and ancient flags are great eye candy as you walk the museum halls. The massive, decorated floats once used during Semana Santa nearly 100 years ago will leave you with an appreciation for the magnitude and significance of th
e historic festival. You can also browse the crystal rosaries and bracelets being sold in the museum shop by the entrance.
At the intersection of C. San Louis and C. Resolana; the entrance is on C. Resolana. Museum €5, under 16 €3. Basilica free. Basilica open M-Sa 9am-2pm and 5-9pm, Su 9am-2pm and 5-9:30pm. Museum open daily 9am-1:30pm and 5-8:30pm. Mass M-F 9am, 11:30am, 8pm, 8:30pm; Sa 9am, 8pm; Su 10:15am, 12:15pm, 8pm.
CONVENTO SANTA PAULA
C. Santa Paula, 11
MUSEUM, RELIGIOUS SITE
954 536 330 www.santapaula.es
While you may feel like you’re sneaking into the land of Oz when ringing the doorbell at the tiny, brown door toward the right corner of the convent, you’ll soon be greeted by a slew of nuns and all feelings of rebellion will probably vanish (along with that dream of a scarecrow, tin man, and lion at your side). You can visit the small convent museum (€3) and browse the collection of artifacts stored in this 15th-century establishment. While none of the items are labeled, your own private nun will guide you through the three museum rooms, pointing out her favorite parts. She may have even helped to make the marmalade sold on the bottom floor. Pick up a bottle of any flavor you can imagine (what does an orange blossom even taste like?) (small €3, large €4.35).
Located near C. Siete Dolores, neighboring Plaza Santa Isabel and Iglesia San Marcos. Tour €3. Marmelade small €3, large €4.35. Museum open T-Su 10am-1pm. Shop open T-Su 10am-1:30pm, 4:30-7pm.
El Arenal and Triana
PLAZA DE TOROS DE MAESTRANZA
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 12
MONUMENT
954 210 315 www.realmaestranza.com
Constructed between 1761 and 1881, Plaza de Toros de Maestranza is one of the oldest bullfighting rings in the world. The Maestranza offers a tours of the ring, stables, and museum (conducted in both English and Spanish) that will leave you feeling like a true master of the almost 300 years of bullfighting history. You can walk in right before the tours, conducted every 20min., and get in without a problem. The bullfights themselves, occurring on about 40 Sundays between April and October, are a true taste of Sevilla’s culture. Aside from during the Feria de Abril, when the best matadors are in town, you’re fine grabbing a ticket the day before or even hours before the fight.
Off Paseo de Cristóbal Colón between Plaza de Armas and Torre de Oro. Tours €6, students €4. Bullfights €25-150 depending on seat. Museum open daily May-Oct 9:30am-8pm; Nov-Apr 9:30am-7pm. 40min. tours run every 20min. Bullfights select Su Apr-Oct 7pm, 7:30pm.
TORRE DE ORO
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón s/n, near the intersection with Almirante Lobo
MUSEUM, VIEWS
954 222 419
While it may no longer be filled with gold (sorry to burst your bubble), the Torre de Oro is still worth a visit. The now-maritime-museum can be covered in a maximum of 20min., at no cost with a student ID. But even if you come for some history, you’ll stay for the views. Climb the spiraling marble steps to the top of the tour (yes, you should go all the way to the top) and you’ll be able to see all of Triana to one side of the canal as well as great views of the Cathedral and Alcazar if looking toward Santa Cruz.
On the canal side of the street at the intersection of Cristóbal Colón and Almirante Lobo. Cameras permitted. €2, students free. Automated tour free upon request. Open Tu-F 9:30am-1:30pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-1:30pm.
Near Estación Plaza de Armas
CENTRO ANDALUZ DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO MUSEUM
Avenida Américo Vespucio 2
MUSEUM
955 037 070 www.caac.es
Embedded into the grounds of Monasterio de la Cartuja de Santa Maria de las Cuevas lies this oasis of modern Sevillian art. And that’s quite a pairing to have—the classic, Moorish-style monastery grounds provide a harsh contrast with the bright white walls and mutli-media art collection found in the hallways of the museum. From movies, to slideshows, to music, and even interactive pieces, you’ll find some of the most creative, colorful, and shocking artwork on the Sevillian scene. Make an afternoon of the treck across the river and spend some time lunching in the monastery gardens after a bit of cultural exposure at the museum.
About a 10 minute walk west from Estacion Plaza de Armas and then cross Puente de la Cartuja and make a right after crossing the bridge. Tours available but must reserve a spot 955 037 096, [email protected]. Museum admission €1.80, free on Tuesdays. Apr-Sept Tu-Fr 10am-9pm, Sa 11am-9pm, Su 10am-3pm. Tours Su 12:30pm.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
PARQUE DOÑANA
Las Carretas, 10
PARK
630 978 216 www.donana-nature.com
One of the largest national parks in all of Europe, Parque Doñana provides you with a good dose of nature and a strong urge to purchase a pair of binoculars and the complete set of an Indiana Jones movie. The excursions led out of El Rocío can be described as “safari-lite”—bouncing around in the back of a 4x4, try to hold your camera steady enough to catch a photo or two (or 200). The park itself is bordered by three cities that proudly share rights to its territory (Huelva, Cadiz, and Sevilla) and is composed of three main ecosystems: forest, marshland, and beach. Such a variety of untouched natural conditions provides for the exciting diversity of flora and fauna found in the park. While the friendly tour guides will provide a disclaimer that they can’t promise you’ll see any animals (it’s a national park, not a zoo), we’d be shocked if you went through a whole visit without getting sight of something with a heartbeat. There are eagles, horses, and red deer to name a few. And don’t forget the swarms of pink flamingos (did you know they get their color from a shrimp-only diet? You’d know if you took the tour!). Doñana also offers free entrance for unguided hiking routes throughout the park, but we think the excursion services are worth the extra price—from diagrams to maps, your guide will have the knowledge to make sure you don’t miss an inch of Parque Doñana. However, don’t think it’s all about nature—you’ll hear myths and stories about of the park, too. Don’t the tomb of Duchess Doña Ana and the park’s 13th-century identity as a hunting ground pique your interest?
From Estación Plaza de Armas, take a 1½hr. bus to Matalascañas (€6.61), and then take a 20min. bus to El Rocío/El Almonte (€1.17) and get off at the El Rocío stop. The visitor center for excursions to the park is to the left of the main church at El Rocío. Tours led in Spanish. Excursion through the park via van and bus €25 per schedule. Excursions daily 8:30am and 5:30pm; 3-3½ hr. long.
FOOD
Santa Cruz
HORNO DE SAN BUENAVENTURA
28 Carlos Canal
TRADITIONAL, CAFE
954 221 829
Perfect for those exhausted by a day of travel in the Sevillian sun. Horno is located a hop, skip, and a jump (assuming all three of these are conducted with extensive force) away from the Cathedral and serves up a variety of perfect “cool down” foods at low prices. Utilize the overwhelming smell of the fresh bakery portion of the restaurant to help you ignore the line of pigs’ legs hanging over the bar. The gazpacho (€4.50) is served chilled, with three large ice cubes floating atop this traditional tomato treat. If you’re looking to further relieve the downpour of sweat streaming from your brow, try the wide selection of gelatos—the classic Málaga flavor of the region (actually rum-raisin) is the perfect sweet treat to end any meal. A historic relic originally established in 1385, Horno has had 5 different names and many more years of practice perfecting a wide selection of inexpensive dishes.
Located directly across Avenida de Constitución from the Cathedral, Outdoor table, and bar seating available. Tapas €2.25-€4.50. Sandwiches €3.50-€8.50. Ice cream €1.10. Open daily 7:30am-11pm.
TABERNA COLONIALES
Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19
TRADITIONAL, TAPAS
954 501 137 [email protected]
The biggest complaint to make about Taberna Coloniales is that it’s just too busy for its own good, but lucky fo
r you they’ve expanded to two locations to ease the congestion. Even for lunch there’s a chance that you’ll need to wait for a table, but it’s worth it. While most dishes—aside from the more expensive country bread platters or tablas (€5.05-10.75)—don’t expect some tiny tapa to come out of the kitchen. Each helping is like a tapa on steroids, filling a whole face-sized plate. The pollo con salsa de almendras (€2.50) and the daily specials are both worth a try. Keep in mind that these waiters are pretty savvy: while they put bread on the table, it isn’t free (€1.70). If you’re not going to eat it, ask them to take it away.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 204