istanbul
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ORIENTATION
Sultanahmet and Around
With the Hagia Sophia and other popular historical sights to its name, Sultanahmet is the center of Istanbul’s tourism and the first stop for anyone who wants to explore the city. Sultanahmet proper is the area teeming with tourists around the Blue Mosque, where many of the budget accommodations and historical sights can be found. To the north there are the Sirkeci and Eminönü neighborhoods, home to the Spice Bazaar, bustling streets, and some decent eating options. The Galata Bridge above Eminönü connects the historic peninsula with Karaköy on the European side. The eastern tip of the peninsula is occupied by Topkapi Palace and the Gülhane Park, one of the few areas around that have greenery. To the west from Sultanahmet are Çemberlitaş and Beyazit Square, home to nice tea places and cheap restaurants. Above Beyazit is the Grand Bazaar, a maze-like area perfect for some shopping with your haggling. Below Beyazit is the Kumkapi neighborhood, renowned for its fish restaurants.
Fener and Balat
Fener and Balat used to be a home to the Greek, Jewish, and Armenian minorities of Istanbul, but today they’re populated mostly by poor Muslim migrants. It’s a very dilapidated area, but doesn’t feel unsafe. The fastest way to get here is by bus, but the prettiest is by ferry from Eminönü. The street plan is rather confusing, so use landmarks to navigate the area. Vodina Cad. runs parallel to the shore between Fener and Balat and has a number of local stores as well as the impressive, red-brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Özel Fener Rum Lisesi) some 300m inland from the Fener ferry jetty. The Edirnekapi neighborhood is a 15min. walk inland, close to the city walls, home to the mosaic-filled Chora Church. Eyüp is a neighborhood a few kilometers to the north of Balat, where you can find the Eyüp Sultan Mosque as well as the Pierre Loti Cafe.
Kadiköy, Moda, and Üsküdar
The Asian side of Istanbul tends to be more confusing for travelers, because it isn’t laid out like most European cities. However, make your way through this disorienting part of town to discover the center of a lively alternative art scene, with an abundance of cafes and restaurants free from the hordes of tourists in other parts of the city. There are a few streets in historical Kadiköy whose location you should keep in mind. The Sögütlüçeşme Cad. runs from the ferry terminal inland and intersects with Kadiköy’s important pedestrian street Bahariye Cad. This intersection is home to the well-known statue of a bull. Parallel to Bahariye Cad. is Kadife Sok., the “bar street,” where most of the local nightlife is located. Intersecting with Söğütlüçeşme near the ferry terminal is the Güneşlibahçe Sok., where Kadiköy Market and many restaurants with live music can be found. Moda is a well-to-do residential area to the south of Kadiköy with some romantic beaches that people often use to watch the sunset. Within walking distance, Moda is also accessible by a nostalgic shoebox-of-a-tram that follows a circular route around Kadiköy into suburbia. Üsküdar is a rather sleepy historical neighborhood some kilometers north of Kadiköy that is home to a number of mosques. The easiest way to travel between Kadiköy and Üsküdar is to take public bus #12 or #12A.
For details on Istanbul Overview map, click here
Beşiktaş and Ortaköy
Beşiktaş, a village a few local kilometers up from Kabataş, has a small pedestrian center popular with students. The eagle statue (there are two—we mean the bigger one), which is near the triangular fish market, is a good orientation point. There are a few expensive places here, but it’s Ortaköy that is notorious as Istanbul’s leading site of conspicuous consumption—the rich and powerful flock here to shop, eat, and party. Ortaköy’s small center is near the water, around the Ortaköy Mosque. The city’s famous clubs are mostly concentrated on Muallim Naci, a road running up from Ortaköy to Kuruçeşme. One main road (at various points called Dolmabahçe, Çirağan, and Muallim Naci) runs along the shore, connecting Kabataş with these neighborhoods. You can take one of the many buses, though the road is often clogged with traffic, so we suggest walking when possible.
Beyoğlu
Beyoğlu is the real heart of modern Istanbul, pulsing with tons of galleries, eateries, bars, and clubs. Many of these establishments are located off İstiklal Cad., a throbbing promenade connecting Taksim Square in the north with Tünel Square in the south. A bit below Tünel is the Galata Tower, the most recognizable landmark of the entire European portion of the city. Don’t confuse this with Galatasaray Lisesi, which is about halfway into İstiklal, near where Yeni Çarşi intersects the avenue. Just above Galatasaray is the Nevizade Sokak, where much of Beyoğlu’s nightlife takes place. Cihangir, a bohemian neighborhood popular with expats, is between the Alman Hastanesi (German Hospital) and Firuzağa Mosque. The Sultanahmet tram doesn’t run to İstiklal, so to get there, you can either go to Karaköy and take a funicular to Tünel, or go to Kabataş and then take the funicular to Taksim.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Most of Istanbul’s budget accommodations are concentrated in Sultanahmet, but Beyoğlu is becoming more and more popular with travelers looking for cheap rooms. The main advantage to staying in Sultanahmet is being close to the major historical sights, while residing in Beyoğlu gives you easier access to the city’s culture and nightlife. In Sultanahmet, boutique hotels and small guesthouses often provide the best value, but they usually fill up quickly. There are only a few suitable accommodations on the Asian side and in the more conservative districts like Fatih or Fener, while Beşiktaş is home to mostly upscale hotels. Avoid staying in hotels in the Aksaray area, the city’s seedy red light district.
The prices of Istanbul’s hostels can change faster than you can say “Çekoslovaky alilaştiramadiklarimizdanmişsiniz” (which, by the way, means “are you one of those whom we couldn’t have possibly turned into a Czechoslovak?”). All the prices quoted here were collected during the high season (Mar-May, Aug-Sept, Christmas-New Year’s), but they may be much lower at other times. Not all hostels change their prices at the same time, and some maintain the same prices year-round. Often the deal you get depends on what kind of room is available at the moment, so the best way to find a bargain is to ask at multiple hostels in person, or to look for current prices on the internet.
Sultanahmet and Around
METROPOLIS HOSTEL
Akbiyik Cad. Terbiyik Sok. 24
HOSTEL
212 518 1822 www.metropolishostel.com
Though skeptical of everything in Sultanahmet that’s under than 400 years old, Let’s Go still found an accommodation option that it can wholeheartedly recommend—Metropolis Hostel seems to really know what international travelers need. The rooms are clean and welcoming, the beds are comfortable (a rarity in the hostel scene here), and the terrace view beats much of the competition. Spend your evening with nargile on the rooftop bar, or join in on a pub crawl organized by the hostel.
Sultanahmet. Near İshak Paşa Mosque. Breakfast included. Dorms €14-17; all-female €17. Singles €37; doubles €54, with bath €66; triples €72; quads €72. Reception 24hr.
CORDIAL HOUSE
Peykhane Sk. 29
HOSTEL
212 518 0576 www.cordialhouse.com
One of the best budget options on the historical peninsula, this big hostel near Çemberlitaş is cheap, close to a tram stop, and very conveniently located for walking to both the Grand Bazaar and Sultanahmet. Since it has so many rooms, you might get a lower price even at a time when other hostels are still charging their high-season prices. It’s not quite the social hotspot that hostels with terrace bars aspire to be, but if that aspect of hostel culture isn’t too important to you, this is the place to stay.
Çemberlitaş. 50m south from the tram stop. Breakfast €4. Dorms €12; singles €24; doubles €30, with bath €60; triples with bath €70; quads with bath €80. Reception 24hr.
TULIP GUESTHOUSE
Akbiyik Cad. Terbiyik Sok 15/2
GUESTHOUSE
212 517 6509 www.tulipguesthouse.
com
With a tiny kitchen in which to cook, cheerful and clean rooms, and an owner with a university education, this guesthouse offers better value than many bigger hostels. Twice a week there are community dinners prepared by the staff and the guests in the upstairs breakfast area, and there’s a shower available in the basement for people who already checked out but are staying until the end of the day. Even the name reflects the management’s desire to cater to the comfort of its guests—it was changed to “Tulip” after they realized it was more memorable than the original, unpronounceable one.
Sultanahmet. Near İshak Paşa Mosque. Breakfast included. Bathrooms ensuite. Dorms €10; singles €35; doubles €45; triples €55. Guests get their own key.
CHEERS HOSTEL
Alemdar Mahallesi Zeynep, Sultan Camii Sokak 21
HOSTEL
212 526 0200 www.cheershostel.com
Among the more expensive accommodations, Cheers Hostel offers great value for your money. The rooms are decorated with objects that could be mistaken for Ottoman relics by people not in the know, the showers are inside glass cubicles (not as common around here as you might think), and there’s a killer view of Hagia Sophia from the terrace. The dorm beds have their own storage containers (most places only have safety boxes at the reception desk), but the dorms themselves aren’t usually locked.
From Gülhane, continue up Divan Yolu, turn right after Zeynep Sultan Mosque, and continue for 30m. Breakfast included. All doubles and triples with ensuite bath. Dorms €16-20; doubles €60; triples €80. Reception 24hr.
NOBEL HOSTEL
Mimar Mehmet Aga 32
HOSTEL
212 516 3177 www.nobelhostel.com
Yet another good hostel that combines relatively low prices with acceptable quality. A vertigo-inducing staircase leads to the terrace upstairs that offers a great view of the Blue Mosque. Guests get a 15% discount in the restaurant downstairs, and a beer for just 4 TL upstairs. Here’s a joke: Knock, knock. Who’s there? Nobel. Nobel who? Nobel, so I rang. Let’s Go doesn’t know how long (if at all) the reception will find this joke funny.
From Sultanahmet, head down Akbiyik Cad. Breakfast included. Singles €30; doubles €40, with bath €50; triples €50, with bath €60. Reception 24hr.
ORIENT HOSTEL
Akbiyik Cad 13
HOSTEL
212 517 9493 www.orienthostel.com
Allegedly the first hostel in Turkey and one of the biggest ones in Istanbul, Orient Hostel is a safe bet for young travelers and offers a decent view of the sea from the terrace, a daily happy hour, and many common spaces in which to meet fellow backpackers. The rooms are small and reasonably clean, even if the stairs and the underground spaces can feel a bit musty. With a capacity of 152 guests, you’re probably not going to get turned down when you show up fresh off the plane at 3am.
From Sultanahmet, walk past the Hagia Sophia; it’s located in the middle of the hostel district. HI member. Breakfast included. Happy hour beer 5TL. Dorms €10-15; singles €30; doubles €40, with bath €55. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL ERENREL
Hoca Paşa Tayahatun Sk. 11
HOSTEL
212 527 3468 www.hotelerenler.com
A great choice for cheapskates who don’t want to stay in a dorm, this hostel has single rooms that are half the price and half the size of what one tends to expect. The wireless connection is erratic, the English at the reception desk is intermittent, and the hostel is tucked away in a small street in Sirkeci that could look eerie at night—but hey, you get to stay in your own room for the price of an upscale kebab. The place isn’t dirty or unsafe, so it can be used as a base for sleeping, because your waking hours will be spent in the magnificent streets of Istanbul.
Gülhane. Follow the tram tracks north along the Gülhane Park walls. When the tram tracks turn left, keep to the right and continue for two blocks. Dorms €10; singles €13; doubles with bath €33. Reception 24hr.
Kadiköy, Moda, and Üsküdar
HUSH HOSTEL
Miralay Nazim Sok. 20, Kadiköy
HOSTEL
216 330 9188 www.hushhostelistanbul.com
Decrepit but charming, this hostel housed within an Ottoman mansion seems to have a monopoly on budget accommodations in this area. The cracked paint and gloomy feel aren’t for everybody, but the location next to Bar Street is great, and there’s an art gallery downstairs. If you want to stay on the Asian side and close to all the nightlife, say no more than “hush.”
Sultanahmet-Beyoglu-Moda
From the bull statue, head south down Bahariye Cad. After passing the Süreyya Opera House, turn right, and then another right. The hostel will be on your left. Dorms €11-12; doubles €34-38; triples €45; quads €52. Guests get their own key.
HOTEL GRAND AS
Nüzhetefendi Sok. 27, Kadiköy
HOTEL
216 346 9160 www.grandashotel.com
Despite the unfortunate name, this is one of the better options from among the cluster of hotels near the ferry terminal, which range from completely unmemorable to unforgettably terrible. You won’t write home about this place, but at least the staff speaks some English and the rooms have ensuite bathrooms.
From the ferry terminal, head up Söğütlü Çeşme Cad. Turn left at Osmanağa Mosque, and it’s two blocks ahead. Breakfast included. Singles 75TL; doubles 110TL; triples 140TL. Reception 24hr.
HUSH HOSTEL LOUNGE
Rihtim Cad. Iskele Sok. 46, Kadiköy
HOSTEL
216 450 4363 www.hushhostelistanbul.com
This very recent offshoot of the HUSH Hostel is a bit more expensive, a bit more modern, and a bit farther from everything interesting. The rooms are large and take the word “bare” to new extremes, but there are a couple of cool lounges downstairs that make up for it. The empty walls are slowly being populated by art that’s left over from exhibitions at the other HUSH hostel, so the charisma of this place can only go up.
From the terminal that serves ferries from Eminönü, cross the street and head north. Instead of continuing on the bridge, turn right on Iskele Sok. and continue up the hill. It will be to your right. Breakfast included. Dorms €12-13; singles €33-35, with bath €44; doubles €34-38, with bath €50; triples €48-54, with bath €66; quads €60-64, with bath €72. Reception 24hr.
Beşiktaş and Ortaköy
HOTEL ÇIRAǦAN
Müvezzi Cad., Beşiktaş
HOTEL
212 260 0230 www.ciraganhotel.com
This is as close to budget accommodation as you can get in Beşiktaş and Ortaköy. If it weren’t for some very tall trees, the hotel would have what could qualify as a “Bosphorus view” (the phrase that justifies unreasonably high prices in many establishments in Istanbul—its Sultanahmet equivalent is the “Blue Mosque view”). There is a pleasant restaurant on the sixth floor.
Take the ferry or bus to Beşiktaş. Walk down Çirağan toward Yildiz Park until you see Müvezzi on your left, just before the park walls start. The hotel is at the base of Müvezzi Cad. on the left. The Çirağan bus stop is very close to the hotel. Wi-Fi is available in the lobby and in the restaurant. The staff speak some English. Singles with bath 75TL; doubles with bath 95TL. Reception 24hr.
OTEL BEŞIKTAŞ
Ihlamurdere Cad. 19, Beşiktaş
HOTEL
212 261 0346
This locals-oriented hotel is right in the center of Beşiktaş, relatively close to the ferry terminal and the bus station. If you’re an unmarried couple, you might have some trouble getting a room together, but if you act foreign enough you should be fine.
Take the ferry or bus to Beşiktaş. Walk inland on Ortabahçe Cad., which intersects with Dolmabahçe Cad. near the Naval Museum. After a few blocks, the hotel will be to your left. Little English spoken. Singles with bath 70TL; doubles 90TL. Reception 24hr.
Beyoğlu
RAPUNZEL GUESTHOUSE
Bereketzade Camii Sok. 3
HOSTEL
This hostel is run by three charming people fresh out of university and very willing to give you advice on where to go and what to see in the city. What’s more, every week they compile a list of concerts and events that might be of interest to travelers. The mattresses are orthopedic, and the location right below the Galata Tower is great, provided that you don’t mind having to climb some steep slopes in the nearby streets. Rapunzel is quite new, so let’s hope its owners never lose their current youthful enthusiasm.
Tünel or Karaköy. Get as close to Galata Tower as you can, then head down the hill on Camekan Sok. and take a right turn at the Berekzade Mosque; the hostel will be on right. Breakfast included. 4-bed dorms €16; singles with bath €40; doubles with bath €50. Reception 24hr.
NEVERLAND HOSTEL
Boğazkesen Cad. 96
HOSTEL
212 243 3177 www.hostelneverland.com
With posters calling for the fall of neoliberalism, a giant yin and yang seat, and handpainted walls, this is one of the most charismatic hostels in the city. Its enactment of the word “alternative” is very thorough—few other places in Istanbul care about recycling paper and plastics and usually just leave it to the poor who make a living out of it. There are many pleasant common spaces, free tea and coffee from the kitchen, and a collective management that is set on creating an ecovillage one of these days. If you’re nice, maybe they’ll let you join.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 211