Sultanahmet. No shoes or shorts allowed. Women must wear head covers. Free. Open in summer M-Th 8:30am-12:30pm, 2-4:30pm, and 5:30-6:15pm; F 8:30am-noon and 2:30-6:15pm; Sa-Su 8:30am-12:30pm, 2-4:30pm, and 5:30-6:15pm.
ISTANBUL ARCHEOLOGY MUSEUMS
İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri
MUSEUM
212 520 7740
Aside from the occasional schoolboy giggling at a nude statue, the atmosphere in this complex, which houses some of world’s oldest artifacts within its three museums, is quite serene. The Museum of Islamic Art (i.e. the Tiled Kiosk) houses tiles and ceramics. The Archeological Museum is home to a collection of statues, sarcophagi, and the mummy of the Sidonian king Tabnit—who currently doesn’t look too happy about the world’s state of affairs. Finally, the Museum of the Ancient Orient holds the oldest preserved written international agreement, the Kadesh Peace Agreement, a treaty between the Hittites and Egyptians from 1258 BC. Sultanahmet or Gülhane; in the First Courtyard of Topkapi Palace. 10TL. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm.
SULTANAHMET SQUARE (HIPPODROME)
Sultanahmet Meydani
SQUARE
Very little remains from the Hippodrome (chariot racing stadium) that used to stand here, and what does remain was originally brought here from other places for adornment. The Greek Serpent Column (5th century BCE) was made from the melted shields of Persian soldiers in honor of Greek victory in the Battle of Plataea. The Obelisk (1490 BCE) was built by the Egyptian pharaoh Thutmose III. In fact, the only monument still around today that was actually constructed here is the Walled Obelisk that looks pretty decrepit (blame the Fourth Crusade—they took all the gilded plates off it). Speaking of old phallic monuments, don’t miss the Million Stone right by Hagia Sophia—all distances in the Byzantine Empire used to be measured from this starting point; contrary to popular belief, the US hasn’t always been the center of the universe. If you tire of historical monuments, Sultanahment Square is also a great place to people-watch.
Sultanahmet; it’s the square north from the Blue Mosque.
LITTLE HAGIA SOPHIA
Küçük Aya Sofya
MOSQUE
212 458 0776
Older than its bigger sister, this charming mosque is a bit like Baby Taj Mahal in Agra, India—not quite the real deal, but worth a visit once you’re done with all the big names. One of the first historical buildings built during Justinian’s reign, Little Hagia Sophia has many architectural features similar to its counterpart, which it preceded by only a few years. After the Conquest, it took decades before it was converted into a mosque by the chief eunuch Hüseyin Ağa. After a long period of decay, it was finally restored a few years ago. It’s located in a quiet neighborhood, so come here to have a tea in the garden nearby, or stop by on your way toward Kumkapi.
Sultanahmet. From the Blue Mosque, walk down Küçük Aya Sofya Cad. for 5min. Free.
GALATA BRIDGE
Galata Köprüsü
BRIDGE
Allegedly, the walk down this bridge isn’t quite what it used to be before 1992, when the current structure replaced an earlier, iron version, but it still offers a great view of mosques and other landmarks on both the historical peninsula and the European side. Today, the upper level is populated by anglers with fishing rods catching fish in the Golden Horn, and the lower level is populated by ang...um, waiters catching tourists and making sure they eat at their overpriced seafood restaurants. Choose the upper level, and if you’re hungry, try one of those famous fish sandwiches (4TL) that are sold on both sides.
Eminönü or Karaköy.
Fener and Balat
CHORA CHURCH
Kariye Müzesi, Kariye Camii Sok. 29, Edirnekapi
MUSEUM
212 631 9241
Chora Church requires some serious ceiling-gazing skills—the most beautiful Byzantine mosaics and frescoes are on the domes. The church’s history goes back to the fourth century, when Constantinople was so small that this church stood outside the city walls—hence the name Chora, meaning “countryside” in Old Greek. However, most of the mosaics date to the early 14th century, when the church was restored following an earthquake. A few decades after the Ottoman conquest in 1453, the building was converted into a mosque. Fortunately, the Christian images were not destroyed. Instead, they were covered over with plaster and wooden panels and stayed that way for over four centuries. In 1945 the mosque was converted into a museum and the artwork was restored and brought back into the daylight. The mosaics and frescoes depict various events in the busy lives of Virgin Mary and Jesus, which range from the Annunciation to Jesus healing the blind and paralyzed.
Bus to Edirnekapi. As you get off the bus, turn left and walk, then take the nearest right turn. Walk for 3 blocks, but before you reach the city walls, turn right and walk 2 blocks down the slope until you see the museum. If you’re getting here from Fener or Balat, the walk takes around 15min. with a map and 45min. without one. 15TL, Turkish students 10TL, under 12 free. Open in summer M-Tu 9am-6pm, Th-Su 9am-6pm; in winter M-Tu 9am-4:30pm, Th-Su 9am-4:30pm.
BULGARIAN ST. STEPHEN CHURCH
Sveti Stefan Kilisesi, Balat
CHURCH
212 635 4432
What makes this church interesting is that it’s got none of that stone-and-concrete nonsense. Instead, it’s all made of iron parts that were manufactured in Vienna, sent down by boat on the Danube, and assembled here in 1898. Iron was in vogue back then (the church is just a few years younger than the Eiffel Tower), but it’s not today—St. Stephen Church is one of the few surviving cast-iron churches in the world. Interestingly enough, it was built on the site of a previous wooden church, taking over as the new home of the Bulgarian Exarchate. The Exarchate was an autocephalous Orthodox church that seceded from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople as a result of the increasing nationalist sentiment of ethnic Bulgarians in the Ottoman Empire during the 19th century. The Exarchate didn’t last long. In 1913 it relocated to Sofia, and in 1915 it lost autonomy for three decades. However, even today St. Stephen Church remains important for the Bulgarian minority in Istanbul. Inside, the church is wonderfully decorated, and its internal structures are made completely out of iron.
Bus or ferry to Fener. The church is located in the park between Fener and Balat ferry jetties. If you’re arriving by ferry at Fener, turn right and walk along the shore until you see the church across the road to the left. Free. Open daily 8am-5pm.
EYÜP SULTAN MOSQUE
Eyüp Sultan Camii, Eyüp
MOSQUE
This mosque is one of Islam’s most important pilgrimage sites because it’s the burial place of Ayyoub Al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan in Turkish), a friend of Prophet Muhammad and the standard-bearer of Islam who died during the Muslim siege of Constantinople. The mosque was the first one built by the Ottomans after the Conquest, and the giant plane tree that grows in the mosque’s courtyard was supposedly planted around that time. The mosque has a separate entrance for women, who generally pray in the upper gallery, but it should be possible for female tourists to enter through the main entrance provided that they stick to the usual mosque etiquette. The main attraction of the complex, however, is the Tomb of Eyüp Sultan, a wonderfully decorated burial site that’s even more beautiful on the inside. Within the tomb you can find exhibited the footprint of Prophet Muhammad, a strange white object inside a glass display in the wall. The place is almost constantly full of believers showing their respect, so make sure to act accordingly. You’ll see many young boys in curious white costumes—they are visiting the tomb as a part of their sünnet, the circumcision ritual that most Turkish boys have to undergo. Due to their religious significance, the mosque grounds became a popular burial place for government officials. When you’re done with the tomb, go for a walk up the hill through the cemetery, preferably all the way to Pierre Loti Cafe.
Bus or ferry to Eyüp. Cross the road and head inland, following the 1 visible minaret of Eyüp Mosque. You’ll have to pass through a lo
ng bazaar street and by a fountain. Standard mosque etiquette applies. Free. Mosque open in summer daily 4am-11pm. Tomb open in summer daily 9:30am-6:45pm.
Kadiköy, Moda, and Üsküdar
ISTANBUL TOY MUSEUM
Ömer Paşa Cad. Dr. Zeki Zeren Sok., Göztepe
MUSEUM
216 359 4550 www.istanbultoymuseum.com
All right, it’s no Hagia Sophia, but Istanbul’s Toy Museum is unlike any other museum you’ll visit in this city. This multi-story villa houses a collection of mostly European and American antique toys, the oldest dating back to 1817. Each room is dedicated to different kinds of toys, with music and lighting to complement the theme (the space exploration room has a particularly fierce disco flicker). The museum has got its share of kitsch, but there are many memorable exhibits. Come see what is supposedly the first Mickey Mouse toy (Performo Toy Company, 1926) and the first Mickey Mouse toy (Disney, appears in cartoons in 1928) standing side-by-side, throwing some suspicion on how Mr. Disney was inspired to create his world-famous mouse character. Bild Lilli, the German doll that inspired the creation of Barbie dolls, is here as well, alongside a rather hideous toy made by the Mattel toy company before it took up Barbies. The most interesting part of the collection is the army of 300 toy Nazi soldiers produced in Germany just before World War II. This exhibit proves that running a “toy museum” isn’t just a frivolous waste of time, but instead a different way of documenting history. After all, children’s toys often reflect adults’ dreams.
Take the suburban train from Haydarpaşa Train Station to Göztepe (10min). After you leave the station, cross and walk down the street that faces the train exit. After the street turns right, take the nearest left turn and go straight. There are giant giraffe statues in front of the museum. 8TL, students 5TL. Open daily 9:30am-6pm.
MAIDEN TOWER
Kiz Kulesi, Üsküdar
TOWER
216 342 4747 www.kizkulesi.com.tr
Maiden Tower is like a mountain—it looks more interesting from afar. Located on a tiny islet near the Asian side, it’s been a legend-inspiring landmark for a few millennia. The oldest of the many legends by Ovid claims a nun named Hero from the temple of Aphrodite used to live here. She used to receive secret visits from Leander, the love of her life who would swim to her at night by following the light coming from the tower. One night a storm blew the light out, and as a result Leander got lost in the Bosphorus and drowned. When Hero found out, she threw herself from the tower. It’s a nice story, but since the islet is within spitting distance of the Asian side, one cannot escape the impression that Mr. Leander must have had a very poor sense of direction. Legends aside, the first structure here was built by the Greeks around 400 BCE, but what you see today is a much more modern product of numerous reconstructions. The tower has served a variety of purposes over time, acting as a military center, a lighthouse, an infirmary, and, since 2000, a restaurant. Beautifully lit at night, the tower looks best from a ferry to Kadiköy after dark. If you decide to come here in person, you’ll be able to climb the stairs to the top and enjoy the view of Istanbul’s two sides. There’s a restaurant in the base of the tower and a tiny cafe up on top, and neither is as ridiculously overpriced as you’d expect them to be.
To get here from Üsküdar’s ferry terminal, walk around the huge construction site and then follow the shore south until you see the tower (15min). Shuttle boats run every 20min. or so from a pier to the south of the tower. There are hourly shuttle boats from Kabataş as well. Tickets from Üsküdar 5TL, from Kabataş 7TL. Shuttle boats run daily 9am-6:45pm.
TURK BALLOON
Kadiköy Meydani Deniz Otobüsleri İskelesi, Kadiköy
BALLOON
216 347 6703 www.turkbalon.net
Among the meager selection of tourist attractions on the Asian side of Istanbul, this is perhaps the best known. With the capacity of 30 people, this big yellow balloon rises 200m into the air and allows you to experience Istanbul from a rather unusual perspective. The balloon doesn’t move once it reaches its maximum height, but instead stays up for 15min. before descending. In the past couple of years, there have been problems with the availability of the balloon, and it wasn’t operating at the time of writing. However, according to the staff, it should be back up soon. When you’re in town, look up and search for a big yellow object in the sky that’s not the sun to see if it’s in service.
From the Kadiköy ferry terminal, head west along the shore; the balloon should be on top of a white building that resembles an anemone. 20TL, students 15TL. Open 9am-8pm; schedule dependent on weather.
Beşiktaş and Ortaköy
DOLMABAHÇE PALACE
Dolmabahçe Sarayi, Beşiktaş
MUSEUM
212 236 9000 www.millisaraylar.gov.tr
Topkapi may be the most historically significant of imperial palaces, but Dolmabahçe is probably the most impressive one. It was commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecid I, and upon completion in 1854, it replaced Topkapi as the official residence of the sultans. The palace is a real exercise in architectural and decorative overkill (think bear pelts, crystal chandeliers, and man-sized Japanese vases) and has 285 rooms, 43 salons, and six hamams. The most impressive part is the central Ceremonial Hall, which features the heaviest chandelier in Europe and which is still in use for special government events. During the tour you can also see the room where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk died on November 10, 1938—many clocks in the palace are set to five minutes after nine, the exact time of Atatürk’s death. The place where the palace now stands was originally a bay—by the order of the sultans it was filled in with stones and turned into imperial gardens. Before the Conquest, the Byzantines had an enormous chain strung across the mouth of the Golden Horn to prevent enemy ships from entering it. It was in this former bay that Mehmet the Conqueror’s ships started their journey on land (through Pera and Kasimpaşa) to circumvent this obstacle. The palace is a very popular tourist attraction, and the lines for tickets can be very long and very slow. Your best bet will be to come on a weekday early in the morning.
Kabataş. The palace is a short walk northeast from Kabataş. Just walk parallel to the shore toward the Dolmabahçe Mosque and past it. To get here from Beşiktaş, you’ll have to walk for approx. 7min. toward Kabataş down Dolmabahçe Cad. Guided tours are mandatory. Tours in Turkish or English, 40min., start every 15min. No photos. 20TL, student with ISIC card 1TL. Open Tu 9am-5:30pm, W 9am-5:30pm, F-Su 9am-5:30pm. Box office closes at 4pm.
ORTAKÖY MOSQUE
Büyük Mecidiye Camii, Ortaköy
MOSQUE
This Ortaköy landmark was designed by the Balyans, the Armenian father-son tandem that contributed to the design of Dolmabahçe Palace. The inside is pretty, but you probably won’t spend more than five minutes there. The mosque is best viewed from the outside—get a kumpir (potato stuffed with cheese and various other fillings—if there’s one place in Istanbul where you should try this snack, it’s here; 8TL) from one of the nearby stalls. Sit near the water and watch Ortaköy’s beautiful and well-to-do youth promenade in front of the mosque and the Bosphorus.
Take the bus to Ortaköy. The mosque is right by the sea, to the east of the ferry terminal. Usual mosque etiquette (no shorts, women cover hair) applies. Free. Open daily 4am-midnight.
Beyoğlu
ISTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad.
MUSEUM
212 334 7300 www.istanbulmodern.org
Almost every corner in Beyoğlu has its own tiny gallery, but if there’s one place for modern art, it’s here. The upper floor hosts the permanent collection chronicling the development of modern art in Turkey over the past century, and the lower level hosts temporary exhibits by local and international artists. Even the staircase that connects these two floors is supposedly a work of art, one that “attacks” the “modernist logic” of “latently oppressive” sleek surfaces. There are a lot of big words on the explanatory signs, but many of the paintings, vi
deo projections, photographs, and installations are genuinely interesting. Don’t miss the auto portrait gallery on the upper level, or the “False Ceiling” installation downstairs (it’s a layer of books suspended from above, forming an artificial ceiling. Profound, isn’t it?). For a schedule of the museum’s frequent film screenings (mostly classics and modern Turkish films), check their website. Don’t miss the awesome view of Istanbul Modern through the glass walls and from the museum’s cafe.
From Tophane, walk in the direction of Kabataş, and after passing the Nusretiye Mosque, turn right and follow the signs. 8TL, students 3TL; Th free. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
Contrary to popular belief, food in Istanbul isn’t all kebabs. Start your day with a generous Turkish breakfast plate (usually bread, cheese, olives, egg, tomatoes, cucumbers) or, even better, with kaymak (cream) and honey. If you don’t have time for a breakfast, just grab a simit (Turkish bagel with sesame) from a street vendor. For lunch, pop into a lokanta to choose from among the ready dishes that are waiting for workers on their lunch breaks, or go to a restaurant and order a thin pide, the so-called “Turkish pizza.” To combat your afternoon slump, find a patisserie and have a baklava, or any one of the many types of syrup-soaked pastries on sale. For dinner try a fish restaurant—if you don’t want to spend too much money, just order some meze (vegetable or seafood appetizers) and share them among yourselves. At night, find a fast-food joint that sells dürüms (kebab wraps), tantuni (diced meat), or, if you’re feeling frisky, kokoreç (chopped lamb intestines). Some of the nicest places to experience the authentic Turkish cuisine are small homefood restaurants, so be on a lookout for those—they are generally not very well advertised. Few things are better than a late-night çorba (lentil soup), while börek (phyllo-dough pastry) is a choice breakfast staple. And these are just the basics—over time, you’ll discover many more options. Oh, and let’s not forget about çay (black tea), without which no Turkish meal can be complete.
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