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Moon Vancouver Page 33

by Carolyn B. Heller


  BOBSLED AND SKELETON

  During the 2010 Winter Olympic Games, the Whistler Sliding Centre (4910 Glacier Ln., 604/964-0040, www.whistlersportlegacies.com) hosted the bobsled, skeleton, and luge competitions. You can live out your almost-Olympic dreams with rides down the same slippery track that the Olympic athletes used.

  In summer, whiz down the track in the Rolling Thunder (Thurs.-Mon. late June-early Sept., advance reservations required; $99 pp), a bobsled on wheels. A pilot steers your sled, which holds up to four passengers and can reach speeds of 50 mph (80 km/h). Kids must be at least 12 to ride (12- and 13-year-olds must have an adult accompany them; those ages 14 to 18 need a parent or guardian present to sign a waiver). Participants must also be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 5 (137 to 196 centimeters) and weigh between 85 and 285 pounds (39 to 129 kilograms).

  In winter, the Thunder on Ice (daily early Dec.-late Mar., advance reservations required; $179 pp) bobsled experience sends you down the ice at even faster speeds: up to 75 mph (120 km/h). The sled holds a pilot and one or two guests. For this experience, you must be between ages 14 and 75; youth ages 14 to 16 must ride with a parent or guardian, and those ages 17 and 18 must have a responsible adult sign a waiver. All participants must be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 8 (137-203 centimeters) and weigh between 90 and 270 pounds (41-122 kilograms) with your winter clothing on.

  If you’re really adventurous, ride head-first on the skeleton down the icy track. Lightning on Ice (daily early Dec.-late Mar., advance reservations required; $179 pp) gives you two solo runs, where you may find yourself hurtling down the track at close to 60 mph (100 km/h). Minimum age for the skeleton is 16, and the maximum is 75. Parents or guardians must sign a waiver for youth under age 19, and all participants must be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 5 (137-198 centimeters) and weigh between 90 and 220 pounds (41-120 kilograms) with your winter clothing on.

  To reach the Whistler Sliding Centre from Whistler Village, follow Blackcomb Way to Glacier Lane.

  WATER SPORTS

  One of Whistler’s most peaceful outdoor experiences is a kayak or canoe tour along the River of Golden Dreams. Whistler Eco Tours (604/935-4900 or 877/988-4900, www.whistlerecotours.com) offers three-hour guided (adults $130, under age 13 $91) or self-guided (adults $90, under age 13 $60) paddles that start on Alta Lake, travel through a scenic wetlands area, and wrap up at beautiful Green Lake. On the guided tour, your guide will tell you about the area’s ecology and give you paddling tips. Both the self-guided and guided options are family-friendly and include transportation back to the village.

  Whistler Eco Tours also rents single kayaks ($30 per hour) and canoes, double kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and pedal boats (all $35 per hour) from their base in Wayside Park on Alta Lake, between the village and Creekside.

  You can swim in several Whistler-area lakes, although the water can be chilly. You’ll find beaches at Alpha Lake near Creekside, Alta Lake between Creekside and the village, Lost Lake near the village, and Green Lake, a large glacier-fed lake north of the village.

  Prefer to do your swimming indoors? Then visit the Meadow Park Sports Centre (8625 Hwy. 99, 604/935-7529, www.whistler.ca; adults $8.50, ages 13-18 $5, ages 4-12 $4.25), a public recreational facility with a 25-meter lap pool as well as a kids’ pool with a lazy river. Located two miles (three kilometers) north of the village, the center and pool are generally open 6am-10pm daily, but call or check the website for seasonal variations.

  WINTER SPORTS

  As an alternative to skiing and snowboarding on Whistler-Blackcomb, go to the Whistler Olympic Park (5 Callaghan Valley Rd., 604/964-0060, www.whistlersportlegacies.com; late Nov.-early Apr., weather permitting) for cross-country skiing (adults $26, ages 7-18 $15), snowshoeing (adults $15.50, ages 7-18 $8.25), and tobogganing ($15 per vehicle). Gear rentals are available. The park is 15 miles (23 kilometers) from the village; follow Highway 99 south to Callaghan Valley Road.

  FOOD

  Like many resort towns, Whistler offers several splurge-worthy dining rooms. If you’re watching your budget, you’ll need to pick your dining spots carefully, but burgers, pizza, and diner-style meals can fuel you up at moderate prices. Another money-saving option, when you’re staying in a condo or lodging with kitchen facilities, is to have one or more meals “at home” or pack a lunch for your outdoor adventures.

  GROCERIES AND MARKETS

  The Whistler Farmers Market (Upper Village Stroll, Blackcomb Village Base; 11am-4pm Sun. June-mid-Oct., 2pm-7pm Wed. July-Aug.) brings locally grown produce and other goodies to the village every weekend from late spring through fall, with an additional weekday market in midsummer.

  Whistler Marketplace IGA (4330 Northlands Blvd., 604/938-2850, www.marketplaceiga.com; 9am-9pm daily) is the largest and most centrally located grocery store in the village.

  Handy to pick up a snack or the toothpaste you forgot, the Whistler Grocery Store (4211 Village Square, 604/932-3628, www.whistlergrocery.com; 8am-11pm daily) keeps long hours and is the closest market to the slopes. If you’re staying in the Creekside area, your go-to grocery is Whistler’s Creekside Market (305-2071 Lake Placid Rd., 604/938-9301, www.creeksidemarket.com; 8am-10pm daily).

  MODERN CANADIAN

  Long considered one of Whistler’s top restaurants, S Araxi (4222 Village Square, 604/932-4540, www.araxi.com; 5pm-late Mon.-Fri, 10am-2pm and 5pm-late Sat.-Sun.; $30-53) emphasizes regional ingredients, whether it’s fresh oysters (there is an oyster bar, with oyster happy hour 3pm-5pm daily) or produce grown on local farms. The menu might include chorizo-crusted B.C. halibut with roasted tomato fondue or pan-roasted duck breast with parmesan-mushroom polenta and caramelized pears. Sate your sweet tooth with the warm Valrhona chocolate fondant or the refreshing lemon tart.

  With more than 20,000 bottles, S Bearfoot Bistro (4121 Village Green, 604/932-3433, http://bearfootbistro.com; 6pm-late daily; prix fixe $78-108 pp) has one of the largest wine cellars in western Canada, the better to pair with their modern Canadian cuisine. Accompanied by live jazz, dinners are multicourse prix fixe affairs that might start with an heirloom tomato salad with ricotta salata or scallop ceviche with pickled watermelon rind, and continue with arctic char paired with artichoke agnolotti, beef striploin with roasted bone marrow and oyster mushrooms, or za’atar-rubbed grilled quail. Of course, there are sweets, including ice cream that they whip up tableside, mixing cream with liquid nitrogen. If you prefer a lighter meal, perhaps oysters and champagne, a game burger, or duck confit with a chili-honey glaze, take a seat in their less formal champagne lounge (from 4pm Mon.-Fri., from 3pm Sat.-Sun.; $12-22), which is open from après-ski until late evening.

  Overlooking the village and up 21 steps from the street, 21 Steps Kitchen + Bar (4433 Sundial Place, 604/966-2121, www.21steps.ca; 5:30pm-midnight daily; $15-36) serves crowd-pleasing comfort food, from roast chicken, pork schnitzel, and bison steak to pasta. You can also stop in for cocktails and small plates, like orange-soy braised pork ribs or cheesy baked mushroom caps.

  Popular for breakfast, casual Elements Urban Tapas Parlour (102B-4359 Main St., 604/932-5569, www.elementswhistler.com; 8am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 8am-2pm and 5pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.; $9-26) serves plates to share later in the day, from a wild salmon combo plate (offering the fish cured, maple-smoked, and raw) or mini venison burgers topped with gruyère to bison short ribs paired with pineapple salsa. The restaurant is located in the Summit Hotel building.

  S Aura Restaurant (2131 Lake Placid Rd., 604/966-5715, www.nitalakelodge.com; 7am-11:30am and 5:30pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-2pm and 5:30pm-9pm Sun., off-season hours vary; $20-30) at Creekside’s Nita Lake Lodge is worth a visit even if you’re not staying at this lakefront hotel, both for its fine contemporary fare and for the lovely lakeside setting. You might begin with a seasonal salad or tuna crudo dressed with citrus vinaigrette, accompanied by a watermelon martini or a Violaceus Fizz (a blend of lavender-infused gin and lemon soda). For your main course, you could try seared scallops with sweet pea puree, fresh B
.C. salmon, or cider-brined pork chops with a side of grilled asparagus, cauliflower gratin, or a shareable platter of garden veggies.

  tuna crudo, Aura Restaurant

  JAPANESE

  A longtime favorite for Japanese fare, upscale Sushi Village (11-4340 Sundial Crescent, 604/932-3330, http://sushivillage.com; 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm Fri.-Sun.; $16-38) has been keeping Whistler in nigiri, maki, teriyaki, and tempura since the 1980s. Another popular spot for Japanese meals is Sushi Sachi (106-4359 Main St., 604/935-5649, www.sachisushi.com; noon-2pm and 5pm-late Tues.-Fri., 5pm-late Sat.-Sun.; $13-30) at the Summit Lodge.

  Part grocery store and part quick-serve Japanese eatery, Fuji Market (205-4000 Whistler Way, 604/962-6251, www.fujimarket.ca; 11am-9pm daily; $5-12) stocks ready-made sushi and cooks up ramen, tempura, and other inexpensive Japanese bites. You can pick up wasabi peas, jars of kimchi, and other Asian ingredients. It’s in a strip mall on the edge of the village, near the Whistler Conference Centre.

  ITALIAN AND PIZZA

  A life raft of good value in a sea of expensive eateries, family-friendly Pasta Lupino (121-4368 Main St., 604/905-0400, www.pastalupino.com; 11am-9pm daily; $14-18) serves a small menu of Italian classics, including spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, and chicken parmigiana. In the evenings, pasta dinners come with soup or salad, plus homemade focaccia.

  The wood-fired oven turns out traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas at Pizzeria Antico (101-4369 Main St., 604/962-9226, www.pizzeriaantico.ca; 11am-10pm Sun.-Wed., 11am-11pm Thurs.-Sat.; $13-20), like the Prosciutto con Ruccola, topped with arugula, prosciutto, tomato, and mozzarella, or the Funghi, sauced with porcini cream and layered with roasted mushrooms and onions. Several fresh salads, grilled paninis (at lunch), and pastas (at dinner) round out the menu.

  SPANISH

  Under the same ownership as Araxi, cozy Bar Oso (150-4222 Village Sq., 604/962-4540, http://baroso.ca; 11:30am-late daily; $8-25) serves up Spanish-style tapas with a B.C. twist. You might nibble wild scallop crudo with olives and oranges, a salad of roasted beets with buffalo mozzarella, or a platter of house-made charcuterie. To sip, there are local beers, sangrias, and interesting cocktails.

  BURGERS

  Like burgers? Splitz Grill (4369 Main St., 604/938-9300, www.splitzgrill.com; 11am-9pm daily; $5-13) has ’em, and they’re not just traditional beef patties. You can get lamb, bison, lentil, even salmon. Line up at the counter, order your burger, and choose from a large selection of toppings. Poutine, fries, and beer are the favored accompaniments.

  DINERS

  For fuel-me-up breakfasts and hearty meals served with friendly sass, head for the Southside Diner (2102 Lake Placid Rd., Creekside, 604/966-0668, www.southsidediner.ca; 7am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-10pm Fri.-Sat.; $10-16), off Highway 99 in the Creekside area. Morning menus get you going with breakfast poutine (home fries topped with poached eggs, sausage, cheese curds, and gravy), “big-ass pancakes” (yes, they’re big), and the usual egg suspects. Later in the day, you can stuff yourself with burgers, sandwiches, meatloaf, or macaroni and cheese.

  VEGETARIAN

  You might walk away with a green mustache after slurping down a fresh juice or smoothie at The Green Moustache (122-4340 Lorimer Rd., 604/962-3727, http://greenmoustachejuice.com; 8am-6pm daily; $7-10), a tiny juice bar and vegetarian eatery. In the morning, they serve breakfast bowls, like muesli or chia pudding topped with nuts, berries, and house-made almond or cashew milk. Later, order a big salad or the Buddha Bowl, a blend of rice and quinoa piled high with fresh veggies.

  BAKERIES AND CAFÉS

  S Purebread (www.purebread.ca), Whistler’s best bakery, offers an irresistible array of treats, from scones and croissants to lemon crumble bars, salted caramel bars, and oversized brownies. For a savory snack, opt for a Pudgie Pie, a portable pastry that might be stuffed with goat cheese, potatoes, or other veggies. If you’re packing for a picnic, try the Dysfunction Ale bread, a hearty loaf made with spent grains from the Whistler Brewing Company. Purebread has two Whistler branches: a convenient Village location (Main St., Olympic Plaza, 604/962-1182; 8:30am-5:30pm daily) and their original Function Junction shop (1-1040 Millar Creek Rd., 604/938-3013; 8:30am-5pm daily) on the south side of town.

  ACCOMMODATIONS AND CAMPING

  Whistler accommodations include a range of hotels and condominium buildings. Hotels provide more services, such as on-site restaurants, ski valets, and concierge staff; some, but not all, have kitchenettes or in-room fridges and microwaves. Renting a condo is often less expensive, particularly for a family, and you’ll have a kitchen where you can prepare some meals. Many Whistler hotels charge for overnight parking, so factor that fee into your lodging budget.

  Whistler has two “peak” seasons. The main high season is during the winter for skiing and snowboarding, which typically begins in late November and continues until April. There’s also a “mini peak” during July and August, when visitors come for hiking, biking, and other summer activities. The most expensive time to stay at Whistler is during the Christmas-New Year holiday, when rates soar. The February-March school holiday weeks are also pricey. During the rest of the year, lodging rates are usually lowest midweek.

  Check the Tourism Whistler website (www.whistler.com) for lodging deals, particularly if you’re making last-minute plans. The Whistler-Blackcomb website (www.whistlerblackcomb.com) sometimes posts discounts on accommodations as well.

  UNDER $150

  Built as part of the Athletes Village for the 2010 Winter Olympics, the HI-Whistler Hostel (1035 Legacy Way, 604/962-0025 or 866/762-4122, www.hihostels.ca; $33-38 dorm, $82-134 d) still feels new, offering dorm beds as well as good-value, basic, but modern private rooms with flat-screen TVs and en suite baths—worth considering even if you don’t normally stay in a hostel. Dorms sleep eight in four bunk beds, each with reading lights, electrical outlets, lockers, and shared washrooms. Parking and Wi-Fi are free, and common areas include a café, a TV room, a lounge with a pool table, a big shared kitchen, and an outdoor terrace. Rates are highest December through February, when the hostel can have more of a ski-party atmosphere. Summer is typically quieter, when staff organize guided hikes, local brewery tours, and other activities. The hostel is five miles (8 kilometers) south of Whistler Village; at the Function Junction crossroads, turn east onto Cheakamus Lake Road. B.C. Transit buses to the village stop out front.

  $150-250

  Catering to skiers and snowboarders in winter, and to cyclists and other active guests in summer, the S AAVA Whistler Hotel (4005 Whistler Way, 604/932-2522 or 800/663-5644, www.aavawhistlerhotel.com; $135-450 d, parking $19) will loan you a complimentary GoPro camera to record your day’s adventures (neat, right?). While it’s not upscale (hotel staff say, “We don’t valet your car, but we do valet your bike”), this 192-room lodging feels sociable, with several lobby seating areas and a communal worktable with a charging station. There’s space to lounge on the outdoor deck, too, around the compact pool and hot tub. Outfitted with one king, two queens, or a queen plus a sofa bed, the guest rooms are crisp and modern, with minifridges, safes, and Keurig coffeemakers; the prime top-floor units have vaulted ceilings. Wi-Fi and local calls are free. You can walk to the Whistler base in about 10 minutes.

  Feeling funky? The boutique 41-room Adara Hotel (4122 Village Green, 604/905-4009 or 866/502-3272, www.adarahotel.com; $119-329 d, parking $20) goes beyond typical ski-lodge style, starting from its lobby, furnished with curvaceous orange banquettes, a massive stone fireplace, and stylized antler sculptures; you can grab coffee and a breakfast bar here in the morning, or give the resident dog a pat. Out on the sundeck is a small hot tub and summer-only pool. Standard rooms have electric fireplaces, French press coffeemakers, minifridges, microwaves, and modern baths with rain showers, but the coolest units are the lofts, with a bedroom upstairs and a living area below. Wi-Fi is included.

  The three-story Listel Hotel Whistler (4121 Village Green, 604/932-1133 or 800/663-5472, www.listelhotel.
com; $139-369 d, parking $20) is simple but comfortable, with a quiet location off the Village Stroll yet close to the lifts at the Whistler base. Most of the 98 rooms are standard units with two queen beds, free Wi-Fi, coffeemakers, and minifridges. There’s a hot tub (but no pool) on the outdoor patio. Rates include continental breakfast. The excellent Bearfoot Bistro (604/932-3433, http://bearfootbistro.com; 6pm-late daily; prix fixe $78-108 pp) is on the property.

  At the serene boutique Summit Lodge and Spa (4359 Main St., 604/932-2778 or 888/913-8811, www.summitlodge.com; $130-479 d, parking $20), the 81 studio and one-bedrooms suites, with cherry furnishings, all have kitchenettes. Wi-Fi and local calls are included, and you can borrow a complimentary bike to cycle around town. The Asian-style Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa (604/938-5982, www.tamansarispa.com) uses traditional Javanese herbs in many of its treatments. Other hotel amenities include a sauna, hot tub, and year-round outdoor pool. You’re surrounded by lots of good restaurants, and it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk to the lifts.

  Most of the studio units at the 84-room Whistler Pinnacle Hotel (4319 Main St., 604/938-3218 or 888/999-8986, www.whistlerpinnacle.com; $149-349 d, parking $19), a quieter older property off the Village Stroll, have full kitchens (handy if you don’t want to eat out for every meal), gas fireplaces, included Wi-Fi and local calls, and modern baths with whirlpool tubs to soak away any adventure-induced aches and pains. Units on the fourth floor feel larger, with vaulted ceilings. There’s a guest laundry and a small outdoor lap pool. Quattro Italian Restaurant (604/905-4844, http://quattrorestaurants.com; 5:30pm-10pm daily; $24-48) and the modern French Alta Bistro (604/932-2582, www.altabistro.com; 5:30pm-late daily; $29-39) are the on-property dining options.

 

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