"Oh, hell no!" A salty, prior-enlisted officer was quick to disagree. "The admiral and chief of staff live on the point right near that turn. A wise captain"—this punctuated with a glance at the CO—"will make a radio call in advance to be sure the channel's clear."
The Dubuque slid silently past the point and the homes of the sleeping admiral and chief of staff. Rounding the turn, we looked directly down the barrels of the USS Missouri's sixteen-inch guns. Off her bow, gleaming white in the morning sun, floated the delicate span of the USS Arizona Memorial. It sags in the middle to symbolize initial defeat but stands firm at the ends in testament to resolve and ultimate victory. Above it, an American flag snapped in the breeze against a smudged backdrop of mountains, with piles of clouds threatening to pour across and drench us.
When the gangplank dropped, Patrick and I escaped to catch a launch out to the Arizona. We spent our allotted fifteen minutes on the memorial watching oil still bubbling from the wreck after sixty years. Among the names on a bronze tablet listing the ship's casualties, we noted a lone Marine lieutenant. After leaving the memorial, the launch passed the Dubuque at its pier. Patrick and I watched the other tourists snapping pictures of the ship.
"What would they think if we went to the parking lot and took pictures of their cars?" Patrick mused.
Although we blended into the crowd in T-shirts and sandals, I didn't really feel part of it. "Do you feel different?" I asked him.
"We are different. They're going back to hotels on Waikiki, and we're staring at six months in that big gray box." Patrick paused and looked around Pearl Harbor. "But different in a good way, too. Especially here."
We sailed the next afternoon for the two-week steam to Darwin, on Australia's north coast. Life fell once again into the easy shipboard routine of training, working out, and reading. I spent the evenings after Rudy's workouts in a chair at the ship's rail, watching our bow wave push toward the setting sun and reading Ernest Hemingway's A Farewell to Arms. "The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places," Hemingway wrote. "But those that will not break it kills. It kills the very good and the very gentle and the very brave impartially. If you are none of these you can be sure that it will kill you too but there will be no special hurry."
Steaming southwest at fifteen knots, we were in no special hurry either.
At six o'clock on a Friday evening, two weeks and six thousand miles from Camp Pendleton, we sailed south of Guadalcanal. I had learned a few days before that we would be passing by the island and worked to prepare a presentation about the Marines' first great battle of the Second World War. When I gathered the platoon on the upper deck, a reddening sun cast streaks above our heads. Guadalcanal's green mountains climbed from the sea and disappeared in a ring of clouds.
In the late summer and fall of 1942, the entire First Marine Division, including 1/1, had battled the Japanese army for control of Guadalcanal. I saw the Marines looking at the island while I spoke, probably imagining, as I was, the lines of landing craft, geysers of water where Japanese shells fell, machine guns raking the beach. Infamously, the Navy had abandoned the Marines ashore after four of its ships were sunk. With limited supplies, the Marines had pried the island from Japanese control at a cost of more than a thousand dead and four times that many wounded. They had killed twenty-five thousand Japanese.
History is the Marine Corps's religion. I'd seen it throughout my training and felt it at the Marine Corps War Memorial, as I read the list of battles outside 1/1's headquarters at Camp Pendleton, and even when I saw the name of the lone lieutenant killed aboard the Arizona. Past deeds are a young Marine's source of pride, inspiration to face danger, and reassurance that death in battle isn't consignment to oblivion. His buddies and all future Marines will keep the faith. Some people in my life would call that naivetée, but I was coming to know it as esprit de corps. My platoon lingered at the rail that evening, talking softly and watching Guadalcanal fade in the gathering darkness.
A week later, we pulled into Darwin for two days of training in the outback. Half the platoon joined the company for live-firing exercises, while the mortar section and Jim and I rode a bus three hours inland to a desolate training area, where we planned to drop mortars, artillery, and bombs. We arrived after dark and found the battalion combat operations center (COC) fully outfitted with lights, running water, tents, and showers. They were courteous enough to direct us several miles down a dirt road to our bivouac site in a burned-out field full of termite mounds the size of telephone booths.
We settled in uncomfortably, remembering the battalion surgeon's warning that Australia is home to nine of the world's ten deadliest snakes, including the death adder and taipan, which can render a man, in his words, "completely fucked." We were briefed that even the cute mini-kangaroos called wallabies can grab a person with their little hands and try to kick off the person's head with their powerful hind legs. The Marines around us snored as Jim and I opted to stand by the Humvee and talk rather than take our chances on the ground.
After two days of shooting, we returned to Darwin for a day off before our departure. Jim, Patrick, and I drove to the Adelaide River and spent the afternoon feeding crocodiles from a riverboat and swimming in waterfalls. That evening, we found a bar for dinner and drinks. Our ships were scheduled to leave at nine o'clock the next morning.
I sipped a Victoria Bitter and looked at my watch, trying to calculate the time on the East Coast of the United States. Ten-fifteen P.M. in Darwin made it eight-fifteen A.M. the same day in Maryland. I couldn't remember the date, but it was Tuesday, so maybe I could catch my dad at his desk.
I walked across the street to the pay phones in a hotel lobby. My dad and I talked for ten minutes, he asking about our trip and I asking about news from home. Neither of us had anything interesting to tell. I said I'd send him an e-mail soon from the ship and hung up. As I walked out, I saw Patrick talking on a phone farther down the wall.
"What's the word, bro?" Jim pushed a fresh beer my way and asked what was happening in the States.
"Nada. Pretty morning in Baltimore. Nothing to interest you guys." I had barely settled back onto my stool when Patrick burst through the door.
"Fucking terrorists flew planes into the World Trade Center and the Pentagon."
"Relax, bro. Have a beer." Jim and I laughed. Then we saw that Patrick was serious. Abandoning our drinks, we filed out the door and across the street to join a growing crowd around the lobby's big-screen TV.
Slowly, we realized the impact this would have on us. Jim summed it up best: "Fellas, history just bent us over." We had to get back to the ship.
Marines and sailors mobbed Darwin's streets, all streaming down the hill to the docks. As we joined the crowd, a car pulled up, and a young Australian couple asked if we needed a lift. We gratefully accepted and piled in the back seat. Minutes later, the car skidded onto the pier, where floodlights lit the three ships and armed sentries already stood along the rails. The driver shook our hands and said, "Guess you blokes are headed for war."
Part II
War
Archidamus gave a great defeat to the Arcadians, in the fight known by the name of the Tearless Battle, in which there was a great slaughter of the enemy without the loss of one Spartan ... The old men and the women marched out as far as the river Eurotas, lifting up their hands, and thanking the gods that Sparta was now cleared again of the disgrace and indignity that had befallen her, and once more saw the light of day.—PLUTARCH
9
MARINES CROWDED THE FLIGHT DECK. Only an hour after the attacks half a world away, most of the Dubuque's sailors and Marines were already back aboard and far more restrained than usual this late on a night in port. My platoon milled around, clad in sandals and Hawaiian shirts. No one spoke. On the stern, two sailors manned a machine gun. They trained it on the cars depositing passengers at the gangplank. The ship rumbled and smoked from its funnel. The Dubuque was making steam, getting ready to sail.
I climbed up to Captain Whitmer's cabin, to let him know his officers were all aboard. I found him sitting at his desk, wearing sweatpants and looking relaxed. His incense burner smoldered, and acoustic guitar played softly in the background. This was Captain Whitmer at his best, embodying the line from Rudyard Kipling's poem about keeping your head when all around you are losing theirs. Yes, he knew about the attacks. Yes, he expected we'd be sailing earlier than planned. No, he saw no need for concern. We would hold a company formation at 0100 on the flight deck. Standing there in flip-flops and a T-shirt, I wanted to salute him but only nodded and closed the door.
At 0100, the flight deck looked like a party that had been halted in midstream. Marines, mostly drunk but acting very sober, bobbed and weaved in a rough formation. The ship was at THREATCON DELTA, wartime footing. I counted my men and found them all present. In fact, every sailor and Marine on the Dubuque returned to the ship within two hours of hearing the news from the States. Just as people at home were gathering together to absorb the blow, we'did the same.
Even on the flight deck in the middle of the night, I recognized the pivotal moment. It was like a weight settling on my shoulders. I scanned the platoon's three ranks of faces. They looked worried, disoriented, uncertain—the same way I'd felt before I saw Captain Whitmer. They would take their cue from me just as I had taken mine from him. A dumb-ass lieutenant banging on his war drum would be of no help.
"Fellas, get some rest," I said evenly. "I'm sure the ship's e-mail will be shut down pretty soon, so try to get a message off to let your families know you're OK. I don't know how this affects our plans, but I'm sure we'll have more information tomorrow."
Captain Whitmer's calming effect was contagious. I could see that my reaction surprised them. Already, the worry lines began to disappear. Before dismissing the platoon, I turned it up just a little bit. "When the shock wears off, we're gonna be pissed. Maybe, if we're lucky, we'll be the ones to get revenge for this."
It resonated with them, and I saw a flicker of resolve. My emotion surprised me. Looking at the Marines, I saw football stars and thugs and baby-faced eighteen-year-olds. Black and white and Hispanic. They were my platoon, my men, my responsibility. Ruefully, I remembered Staff Sergeant Marine's comment about golden memories and no ghosts.
"Semper fi. Dismissed."
I stood on the dark deck and looked out over the lights of Darwin for a minute before slowly climbing the superstructure to my stateroom. There was an e-mail message from my dad. "Stand tall," it read, "but come home physically and psychologically intact." When I woke at six, we were already out of sight of land, three hours before our scheduled departure.
The ARG was ordered to "proceed at best possible speed" and join the U.S. Fifth Fleet in the Arabian Sea. Fifteen knots crept to eighteen and then to twenty, as fuel consumption became unimportant. Our scheduled stops in Singapore and Hong Kong were canceled. But the MEU interrupted its sprint for a daylong humanitarian mission in East Timor, the former Indonesian province then struggling for independence. I rode to the beach in Dili aboard a landing craft filled with lumber, grain, medicine, and, inexplicably, a crate of ThighMasters. Apparently, someone far up the chain of command wanted us to extend an olive branch to one nation before blowing the hell out of another.
Energy on the ship began to build. I learned that one of my Dartmouth classmates had died on the 104th floor of the North Tower. Marines had fathers and brothers in the New York City Fire Department, and sailors swapped the Dubuque baseball caps they normally wore with their uniforms for hats emblazoned with FDNY or NYPD. One Marine captain played bagpipes for the New York City Police Department band. He led a sunset memorial service on the flight deck, piping the mournful notes of "Amazing Grace" out over the empty ocean. Patrick, another New Yorker, received a note from a classmate whose boyfriend had died in the towers. She had been on the telephone with him when the line went dead. Patrick's father, a doctor, had waited for the injured at St. Vincent's Hospital in Manhattan. On a wall in the gym, a Marine painted a mural of a bald eagle sharpening its talons with a file.
Lacking a definitive mission, the MEU prepared to do everything. Captain Whitmer spent most of our westward transit aboard the flagship Peleliu, where he could more easily keep up with the ever-changing plans. Consequently, Patrick and I camped out in TACLOG, the ship's radio room for Marine communications, living on scraps of information passed back to us. "Great concern about possibility of multiple noncombatant evacuations. May want to focus on such an operation in and around Pakistan."
Over the next two weeks, reams of information flowed to the MEU in preparation to evacuate up to nine thousand Americans from Pakistan. Bravo Company was tasked with flying to Islamabad to secure the U.S. embassy and ready its staff and their families for movement out to the ships. The ship's executive officer wondered aloud how many people we could squeeze onto every available inch of deck space: four hundred? six hundred? What if the ambassador wants to bring her cat? Central Command gave us detailed blueprints and aerial photographs of the embassy and its grounds. Common features of American embassies and consulates are lovely soccer fields and lawns that double as helicopter landing zones. Patrick and I scoured the pictures looking for light poles, electrical wires, or anything else that would hinder our approach. We studied the buildings and surrounding gardens so we would waste no time with maps while rushing through them in the dark. By the end of the week, I knew the American embassy in Islamabad as well as I knew my parents' backyard in Baltimore.
***
After reaching the Arabian Sea south of Pakistan, the Dubuque steamed in circles. The ocean had been carved into six boxes, named along a 9/11 theme: Pentagon, Pennsylvania, WTC North, WTC South, NYPD, and FDNY. The ships moved continuously but stayed within the boundaries of their assigned boxes in order to avoid collisions. It was a legitimate concern. By early October, dozens of American ships steamed circles in the same small patch of ocean.
The MEU slowly pulled back from its plans to evacuate civilians from Pakistan. Marine security guards at the consulate in Karachi and the embassy in Islamabad reported the situation well in hand. Nonetheless, we shared the general expectation that American strikes against Afghanistan would prompt a virulent anti-American backlash in neighboring countries. So we kept the evacuation plans on ice and began to focus more intently on Afghanistan.
After dinner on a typical Tuesday evening in the north Arabian Sea, I climbed to the upper deck and slid through the blackout curtains to the rail outside. The ship rocked gently on the dark ocean. Without visual reference points, the stars seemed to sway back and forth overhead. Far below, I saw and heard the white foam of the bow wave slide along the hull as the ship sliced through the water.
So much for a peaceful world. I remembered the day at OCS when the embassies in Africa had been bombed. I had been so naive. That afternoon, I'd still believed in the so-called peace dividend. Now my generation had its own Pearl Harbor, and I was an infantry lieutenant in the Marines. I could have been in medical school or wearing a suit to work. How could I have done this to my family? I wondered how many Marine infantry lieutenants in December 1941 had survived to see 1945.
I always did my best thinking outside on the deck. Fresh air, wind, and a view—even of only a dark horizon—brought me back to reality. Skippy peanut butter and CNN in the wardroom were of great comfort but disarmingly artificial. The wardroom was, for me, always in San Diego. Ten thousand miles from home, I would eat dinner and then open the hatch, fully expecting to see the lights of Coronado off the stern. But tonight there were no lights at all. I imagined the dozens of blacked-out American warships and, beyond them, the coast of Pakistan. A few hundred miles beyond that, across the mountains and deserts, was America's newest target: Afghanistan.
***
Afghanistan was not only landlocked but time-locked as well. I sat on a metal chair in the TACLOG and flipped through printouts of a CIA analysis of the country. Patrick sat across from me, re
ading about Taliban battle tactics.
"Listen to this," I said. "Population of twenty-five million people, but only thirty-one thousand telephones and one hundred thousand televisions. Thirty percent literacy, eight hundred dollars GDP per capita, life expectancy of forty-five years, and the biggest exports are opium, nuts, carpets, and animal pelts. It sounds like we'll be fighting guys armed with clubs and slingshots."
"And Stingers. They bled the Soviets white," Patrick said without looking up from his reading. The Stinger is a shoulder-fired, heat-seeking, surface-to-air missile.
"Yeah, and the ragtag Chechens just kicked that same army in the teeth because the Russians' tactics and training and leadership suck. I don't think the comparison with us stands up."
"Maybe not. I'm just saying we need to remember the history." Patrick ran through a sketch of the foreign powers that had come to grief in Afghanistan's mountains.
"In 327 B.C., Alexander the Great comes through the Khyber Pass and gets hit by an Afghan archer's arrow. He nearly dies. Almost a thousand years later, Genghis Khan imposes his will over this whole part of the world. Who are the only people to pry concessions from him? The Afghans. And then there're the British. I wouldn't be surprised if Tony Blair wants no part of this operation. They lost three fucking wars to these people."
Patrick flipped back through his sheaf of papers and held one up. "Check this out. January 1842. The Brits withdraw from Kabul in a column of 16,500 soldiers and civilians. They're trying to get to safety at a garrison in Jalalabad, 110 miles away. Guess how many made it?"
One Bullet Away Page 9