by Cleo Coyle
* French, Italian: (455° to 465°F) This style has more of a bittersweet dark-roast taste. While too pungent for some coffee drinkers, these roasts will stand up to mixing with milk and other flavorings to create coffee drinks.
* Dark French, Spanish: (465° to 475°F) The more bitter side of the “bittersweet” flavor is displayed here. A smoky taste may also be present. As the beans continue to roast, charred notes will begin to appear, and regardless of their origin all beans will begin to taste about the same.
Stage 7—Cooling: The master roaster will monitor this process by temperature gauges but also by sound (crack or pop), smell, and sight (bean color). When the desired roast style is achieved, the process is stopped by the release of the beans from the heated drum. The still-crackling beans fall into a cooling tray where fans and stirring paddles quickly bring down their temperature. When completely cooled, they are ready for grinding, brewing, and (finally!) drinking.
RECIPES
With a contented stomach, your heart is forgiving; with an empty stomach, you forgive nothing.
—Italian proverb
Eat with joy!
—Cleo Coyle
Madame’s Osso Buco
See photos of this recipe at www.CoffeehouseMystery.com
Osso Buco (or ossobuco) is an elegant and beloved Italian dish of veal shank braised in wine and herbs. The shank is cut across the bone to a thickness of roughly 3 inches, browned, and then braised. Braising is a very slow cooking process, but preparing the dish itself is relatively simple, and the results pay off with rich, borderline orgasmic flavor. This is the recipe Madame shared with Diggy-Dog Dare in the Elmhurst ER. It was taught to her by Antonio Allegro, her first husband and Matt’s late father.
Makes 3-4 servings
3-4 veal shank crosscuts, about 3 inches thick (see your butcher)
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced
4 celery stalks (hearts), sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup dry white wine (such as Pinot Grigio)
1-2 cups chicken or veal stock (see note)
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
Gremolata (a simple garnish; recipe follows)
Step 1—Brown the shanks: Preheat oven to 350° F. Season shanks with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the oil is rippling but not smoking. Place the veal in the hot oil and sear the shanks on both sides, turning once (about 4-5 minutes per side). Remove veal from oil and set aside.
Step 2—Prepare the aromatics: Drain most of the fat and oil from the Dutch oven, leaving just enough to cover the bottom. Add the onion and cook for 6 minutes, until brown. Add the carrot, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add the celery and garlic, stirring frequently, until they release their flavor and become aromatic, about 2 minutes. (Do not dump everything in at once, the order is important for the best flavor results.)
Step 3—Deglaze and prep the broth: Add the wine to the pan, stirring to incorporate all the ingredients. Simmer for 4-5 minutes, until the wine is reduced by half. Return the veal shanks to the pan, along with all the juice it may have released while sitting. Add enough chicken or veal stock (about 1 to 2 cups) to cover the shanks about two thirds of the way.
Step 4—Simmer and braise the meat: Over a low heat, bring the pot to a gentle simmer, then cover and transfer to hot oven. Braise for 2 hours, turning occasionally. Then add rosemary and thyme, and braise for one more hour, removing the lid during the last 15-20 minutes to cook off excess liquid.
Step 5—Make gravy and garnish: Remove veal shanks. Keep warm and moist before serving by placing in a covered serving dish. Meanwhile, place the Dutch oven on the stovetop again and simmer the cooking liquid over high heat for 5-8 minutes, adding salt and pepper to taste. Now you’re ready to serve! Plate your veal shanks, pour a bit of the hot gravy over each shank, and garnish with Gremolata. Eat immediately—you’ve waited long enough!
GREMOLATA:
Combine 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, 1 minced garlic clove, and 1 teaspoon lemon zest (grated lemon peel).
Madame’s Note on Veal Stock: If purchasing your veal shanks from a butcher, ask for the top of the shank, which is mostly bone (this is usually discarded) and use it to make your own veal stock. Making stock is a snap. Simply simmer these extra bones in 4 cups of water. Throw in any of your favorite aromatics (1 tablespoon of fresh thyme, rosemary, and parsley, for example), add a bay leaf, a chopped onion, a celery stalk or two, salt and pepper. Simmer for an hour, strain out the liquid, and there is your stock!
Clare Cosi’s Jim Beam Bourbon Steak
This outrageous blend of earthy beef with “spirited” brightness makes for a superb gastronomic experience. To help firefighters, Clare happily recommends purchasing a bottle of Jim Beam bourbon with the Terry Farrell Firefighters Fund label. To see what this inspiring label looks like, visit the following Web site, where you can also learn more about the fund, named after one of the fallen heroes of 9/11: www.jimbeam.com/partnerships/terry-farrell-fund
Makes 2 servings
⅓ cup aged bourbon (Jim Beam in the Terry Farrell bottle!)
¼ cup cold strong coffee or espresso
4 tablespoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 T-bone, rib-eye, or shell steaks (2-3 pounds total)
Whisk together the bourbon, coffee, oil, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper and pour into a shallow dish or pan that is large enough to hold 2 steaks flat (single layer, no overlapping). Cover the dish, pan, or container with plastic wrap, and marinate the meat for 1 hour in the refrigerator, then flip and marinate for a second hour. Sauté the steaks in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, about 5 minutes per side for medium rare, or 7-8 minutes per side for medium well. You can also broil or grill them. Eat with joy!
Clare Cosi’s Crab Cakes
There are two keys to good crab cakes: (1) keep the binders to a minimum so you can taste the meat, and (2) form the cakes a few hours before cooking so they can be chilled in the fridge, which will help them stay together during the cooking process. As for the meat, fresh lump crab meat from blue crabs will give you an authentic Maryland-style cake. But if you can’t get fresh, a good quality canned will certainly work, too. Clare likes to brush the chilled cakes with a beaten egg just before final breading and frying. This is certainly more of an Italian-style method of frying seafood than a traditional Maryland-style, but Clare believes this step adds a delicate layer of flavor while helping to keep the cakes together during cooking. For an accompaniment to this dish, try Clare’s Thai-Style Seafood Sauce (page 330) and her Sweet and Tangy Thai-Style Coleslaw (page 331).
Makes 8 crab cakes
5 eggs
1 cup unseasoned bread crumbs (not panko)
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)
½ cup scallions, chopped (white and green parts)
1 teaspoon dry, ground, or powdered mustard (all are the same!)
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
1 pound Maryland blue crabmeat
(or canned backfin or jumbo lump)
1 cup peanut or canola oil
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs for coating)
Step 1—Mix the crabmeat: Lightly beat 4 of the eggs in a mixing bowl, add the unseasoned bread crumbs, lemon juice, scallions, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly. Separate and flake the crabmeat. If the meat is fresh, make sure you pick through it carefully and remove any shell fragments. A
dd the crabmeat to your egg mixture and blend thoroughly.
Step 2—Shape into cakes: Shape the crab mixture into 8 equal-sized balls, pat into cakes. Refrigerate uncooked crab cakes between two loose sheets of waxed paper for about 2 hours or up to 8. (The longer they chill, the easier they will be to handle.)
Step 3—Finish with egg wash and breading: Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Lightly beat the remaining egg in a small bowl. Remove the crabcakes from the fridge and lightly brush each one with the egg wash. Gently roll each cake lightly in the panko bread crumbs. Do this quickly so they do not lose their chill, and do it carefully so they do not fall apart.
Step 4—Fry the cakes: Gently set each crabcake into the hot oil and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Turn with care, only once or twice during cooking. Serve with Clare’s Thai-Style Seafood Sauce on the side (recipe follows) or your favorite condiments or relishes.
Clare’s Thai-Style Seafood Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Clare’s Thai Dipping Sauce (recipe on page 331)
In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise and Clare’s Thai Dipping Sauce. Chill and serve with seafood. This is an especially good sauce to serve with boiled shrimp (in place of cocktail sauce). It’s also delicious with Clare’s Crab Cakes (see previous recipe).
Clare’s Sweet and Tangy Thai-Style Coleslaw
Makes about 1 cup
½ medium to large head green cabbage, shredded (about 10 cups)
1 large carrot, peeled into strips (about ½ cup)
½ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons Clare’s Thai Dipping Sauce, or to taste (recipe follows)
Salt, to taste (optional)
Place shredded cabbage and carrot peels in a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, mix the mayonnaise and dipping sauce. Fold the mayonnaise mixture into the bowl of shredded cabbage and blend well. Season with salt to taste. Chill and serve.
Clare’s Thai-Style Dipping Sauce
This is the traditional recipe used as a dipping sauce for Thai spring rolls, but this tangy, sweet, and hot sauce is also great on salads, barbecued meats, or vegetable tempura.
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
½ cup water
½ cup white vinegar
3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic (about 9 or 10 cloves)
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (or one mashed anchovy fillet or
¼ teaspoon anchovy paste)
2 teaspoons sambal oelek—Indonesian hot chile sauce
(or add more to increase heat)
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons finely grated or shredded carrots
Step 1—Combine the sugar, water, and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to boil and continue boiling for 5 minutes.
Step 2—Reduce the heat to simmer and stir in the garlic, fish sauce, and sambal oelek. Simmer for 2-3 more minutes, remove from heat, and cool.
Step 3—When room temperature, stir in the lime juice and carrots. Store by refrigerating in a plastic container.
Clare Cosi’s Korean-Style Sweet and Sticky Soy-Garlic Chicken Wings
An emerging foodie trend these days in New York City is the enjoyment of Korean fried chicken (Yangnyeom Dak), which landed on the U.S. East Coast circa 2007 and began to spread. In Korea, this dish is prepared from whole chickens cut up into bite-sized bits, which are then fried for crispy consumption in karaoke bars and pubs with beer or soju. Here in America, Korean fried chicken is prepared with wings or drumsticks, seldom the whole chicken.
Clare has created a very simple version of Korean fried chicken for the American kitchen, using a technique she honed making Buffalo chicken wings. (You can find Clare’s recipe for Buffalo wings at www.coffeehousemysteries.com.) The creation of the glaze came out of Clare’s long experience of making homemade syrups for her coffeehouse drinks. (See the Recipes & Tips section of my eighth Coffeehouse Mystery, Holiday Grind, for an array of homemade coffeehouse syrup recipes.)
If you’re feeling adventurous (gastronomically speaking) and would like to seek out the authentic Korean ingredients for which Clare has created substitutions, then follow the instructions at the end of the recipe. But remember, the secret to Korean fried chicken is its crunchy crispness, created by the double-frying process. For delicious complements to this dish, try Sweet and Tangy Thai-Style Coleslaw, page 331, or a pile of sweet potato fries.
Makes 24 pieces
10-12 chicken wings, cut into thirds, discarding tips
½ cup all-purpose flour
⅔ cup cornstarch
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 cups water
1⅓ cups dark brown sugar, packed
½ cup ketchup
½ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
4-6 garlic cloves, minced
Oil, for frying (peanut, canola, or vegetable)
Step 1—Prepare the chicken: Cut the wings into three pieces at the joints and discard the tips (or save and use for making chicken stock). Combine the flour, cornstarch, and salt and pepper in a bowl. Dredge chicken pieces through the mix, coating thoroughly.
Step 2—Make the glaze: Place the water and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add ketchup and whisk until the ingredients are blended. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Mixture should thicken. Finally, add soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and garlic and simmer for another 3-5 minutes.
Step 3—Double fry the chicken: In a large skillet, heat the oil until rippling (or until a droplet of water bounces along the surface. In an electric skillet, the oil should be about 350° F). Gently add the wing pieces and cook for 7-9 minutes, turning once. Remove chicken from oil and let cool on a rack for 10 minutes. (Make sure the chicken dries in a single layer—using the rack lets the air circulate around each wing.) Fry a second time for an additional 7-9 minutes, until golden brown and very crisp.
Step 4—Coat the chicken: Drain the refried chicken on a rack over paper towels for a few minutes. Place the prepared glaze in a clean skillet and warm over a low heat. When the glaze begins to bubble, roll the chicken pieces in the mixture until the chicken wings are thoroughly coated.
Note: Right after cooking, the chicken will be delightfully sticky. If you prefer a drier glaze, simply place the wings in a single layer on a foil-covered sheet pan and warm in a preheated 350° F oven for 8-10 minutes.
Authentic Korean Flavor: This recipe is a good copycat of the soy-garlic wings served at the UFC Korean fried chicken stores in New York City. If you’re after an even more authentic Korean flavor, substitute 1 tablespoon myulchi aecjeot (Korean anchovy sauce) for the tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce. And use Korean brand dark soy sauce.
James Noonan’s Firehouse Sweet Onion and Cheddar Bake
This is the recipe that Clare noticed James Noonan cooking in his firehouse kitchen. (She suggested he add a bit of cayenne to kick up the flavor, which you certainly can, too, if you like.)
While Georgia’s trademark Vidalia onions are the classic onion to use in this recipe, any sweet onion will work just fine. A sweet onion contains less sulfur and more sugar and water than other onions so it’s milder and gentler on the palate. Sweet onions are grown in many places other than the state of Georgia, including Texas (Texas Sweets), California (Imperial), Washington/ Oregon (Walla Walla, by way of seeds from Italy), and Chile/ South America (OsoSweet). One last note from James’s recipe file: Caramelized Bacon Bits (page 336) make an outrageously good added topping for this dish, as well as for his Triple-Threat Firehouse Penne Mac ’n’ Cheese (page 337).
Makes 6 servings (fills a 2-quart casserole dish)
6 tablespoons butter
5 large sweet onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Wondra flour (see note)
1 tablespoon ground, dry, or powdered mustard
(all three are the same!)
1 cup whole milk
1 cup mild cheddar cheese, grated, plus extra for topping
⅔ cup bread crumbs, plus extra for topping
1 cup Caramelized Bacon Bits (page 336), optional
Step 1—Sauté the onions: Preheat oven to 375° F. Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large shallow pan. Toss in the onions and sauté. When they appear soft and translucent (but not brown), remove the onions from the heat. (This will take roughly 8-10 minutes.)
Step 2—Make an easy cheese sauce: In a small saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Stir in the Wondra flour and mustard. Slowly stir in the milk, then add the cheese. (Note: Do not add these two ingredients together—first the milk, then the cheese!). Simmer for 1-2 minutes. When the sauce thickens, it’s ready to use. Remove from heat.
Step 3—Assemble and bake: In a 2- or 3-quart casserole or baking dish, layer the onions, cheese sauce, and bread crumbs. (The bread crumbs will help absorb excess moisture released from the onions during baking.) After the final layer of cheese sauce, sprinkle some extra cheese and bread crumbs on top. Bake 30-45 minutes. If using Caramelized Bacon Bits, sprinkle over the top of the casserole before serving.
Clare’s Onion Storage Tip: Sweet onions will keep for 4-6 weeks. Because sweet onions will absorb water, don’t store them next to potatoes. Store whole, uncut sweet onions in the refrigerator. Place them in a single layer on paper towels in your vegetable bin. For longer storage, wrap them in foil before placing in fridge. To store a cut onion, wrap tightly in plastic and place in fridge.