by Rinker Buck
My lifelong association with the Amish and Mennonite communities of Lancaster and Snyder counties in Pennsylvania, and the Old Order settlements now spread throughout the Midwest, helps me greatly whenever I purchase horses, wagons, or harness. I received help from many Old Order friends while preparing for my trip across the Oregon Trail, particularly John R. Martin of Ephrata, Pennsylvania, Lamar Martin of Leola, Pennsylvania, Aaron Martin of Versailles, Missouri, and Rufus and Alice Martin in Vandalia, Illinois.
My agent, Sloan Harris of ICM, performed his usual miracles of remaining in touch, arranging for more time for me to finish writing, reading and commenting on my manuscript, and encouraging me during a long writing process. Heather Karpas, Josie Freedman, and Heather Bushong at ICM are unfailingly helpful and prompt.
Illustrator Michael Gellatly, whose work has graced my earlier books, surpassed himself with line drawings, and I am grateful to mapmaker Jeffrey Ward for responding to my specific requests for each map.
Writers who complain that they don’t receive enough editing, or can’t get their editors to return phone calls, should try and place a book with Jofie Ferrari-Adler at Simon & Schuster. Over three years, working with a manuscript that at one point had ballooned to over 250,000 words, Jofie never lost his focus or interest, and his suggestion that I dig deeper into family memories to explain my reasons for crossing the Oregon Trail greatly improved the book. Jofie has a steel trap mind for details, an excellent BS detector, no pause button, and a touching and rare humility. The support of publisher Jon Karp and associate publisher Richard Rhorer has been heartening, and I am grateful for the hard work of Julianna Haubner and Jonathan Evans. Cary Goldstein, Anne Tate Pearce, Dana Trocker, and Jackie Seow were also wonderfully supportive.
I am blessed with many friends who understand the loneliness of writing and reach out to support me with dinner invitations, moral support, and weekend junkets, especially George and Cindy Rousseau and the entire Rousseau family, Bob and Judy Spiering, Scott Asen, Kirt and Kerri-Lee Mayland, Eileen Fitzgibbons, Danielle Mailer, Peter McEachern, Cynthia Oneglia, Dan Whalen, Tony Bill, and Helen Bartlett. Billy Richards and Tracy Bartells are the most steadfast of friends and have often given me a quiet place to write at their Blue Sky Ranch establishment in Gardiner, New York. My brother Adrian Buck offers me the refuge of his quiet place in Maine.
My sisters Bridget Buck and Ferriss Donham, and their husbands, Ralph Moore and Will Donham, are always exceptionally supportive, and my children, Paper Buck and Charlotte Buck, are loving and loyal beyond reason.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
© ROBERT MITCHELL
RINKER BUCK began his career in journalism at the Berkshire Eagle and was a longtime staff writer for the Hartford Courant. He has written for Vanity Fair, New York, Life, and many other publications, and his stories have won the Eugene S. Pulliam National Journalism Writing Award and the Society of Professional Journalists Sigma Delta Chi Award. He is the author of the memoirs Flight of Passage and First Job. He lives in northwest Connecticut.
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Shane Comes Home
First Job
If We Had Wings
Flight of Passage
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INDEX
A note about the index: The pages referenced in this index refer to the page numbers in the print edition. Clicking on a page number will take you to the ebook location that corresponds to the beginning of that page in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of any word or phrase, use your reading system’s search function.
Images are referred to in boldface.
Afghanistan: war in, 135, 413
“Air Ship to California”, Porter’s, 158, 158
alcohol: on Rinker’s Oregon Trail trip, 378
The Alcoholic Republic (Rorabaugh), 265
Alexander & Hall (“express train” company), 41
Alkali Gulch (Oregon), 386, 387
All Creatures Great and Small (Herriot), 92
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 100
American Falls (Idaho), 369–70, 380
American Heritage: covered wagon article in, 19–20
American Pioneer Trails Association, 168
The Americans (Boorstin), 78
antelope ribs: and runaway mules incident, 247–48, 249
Arapaho Indians, 4, 182, 244
Army, U.S.
at Blue Water Creek, 213
Burnt Ranch as post of, 313–14
Cody as scout for, 294
and first known wagon crossing of Oregon Trail, 100
Indians and, 213–14
and Mitchell Pass, 232
mules in, 34, 35, 42, 43
in small western towns, 344
Special Forces Command of, 35
10th Mountain Division of, 35
in Wyoming, 293
See also Cavalry, U.S.; specific person
Ash Hollow (Nebraska), 78, 174, 211–16
Aspen Grove (Wyoming): initials at, 354
“auto gates.” See cattle guards
Avenue of the Rocks (Wyoming), 107, 273, 276
Bacon, Daniel, 128
Baker City, Oregon, 29, 396, 397, 398–99, 401–2, 404, 405–8, 409, 414
Baptists: as pioneers, 110, 371
Barlow Road Cutoff (Oregon), 385
Barlow Road (Oregon), 18
Barlow, S.K., 18
Barlow, William, 18
Battle of Blue Water Creek, 213–14
Bear River, 100, 129, 340, 352–56, 360–64, 367, 369
Beck (mule)
and Big Blue River crossing, 146–50
in Black Hills, 237
at California Hill, 206–9, 211–12
calling of, 93, 94, 237
and crossing bridges, 146–50, 151
and differing driving styles, 122
hogs incident and, 154, 155
at Holtz’ Idaho ranch, 404, 414
Mattie’s (Stevenson) driving of, 298
Nick’s relationship with, 120
Nick’s special caring for, 400–401
at O’Fallon’s Bluff, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201
in Oregon, 392–95, 399–403
personality of, 49, 49, 82, 86, 198, 200, 201, 399
pissing by, 124
problems with, 119–20, 122
and Rinker’s doubts about the trip, 82
and Rinker’s emergency backup plan, 59
Rinker’s goodbye to, 415
Rinker’s relationship with, 120, 189
and Rinker’s solo drive into Oregon, 381
at Rock Creek Ridge, 363, 365
at Rocky Ridge, 305–6
as runaway at Fort Fetterman, 246–51
as runaway at Midway Station, 189
sale of, 396–97, 399–404
selection of, 49, 49
shoes for, 380
at Split Rock, 289
and train at Lookout Mountain, 392–95
weather and, 154–56
See also mules, Rinker’s
Beechy, Elmer, 44, 59–62
Benny (Buck family horse), 141–43, 144, 145–46
Berkshire Eagle newspaper, 357, 359
Betty (Buck family horse), 141–43, 144, 145–46
Betty’s Book (Baker City, Oregon), 409
Bierstadt, Albert, 2, 229
Big Blue–Little Blue transit, 151
Big Blue River
Clark’s description of death along the, 180
eb
b and flow of, 130
Rinker’s crossing of, 136, 139, 140, 146–50
Big Blue River country (Kansas): Rinker’s Oregon Trail trip in, 125–27, 128–39, 140, 146–50
Big Sandy Pony Express Station (Wyoming), 334, 339, 340, 343
Big Sandy River, 338, 339, 340, 342
Big Springs (Nebraska), 204
Birch Creek Ranch (Oregon), 386–87, 390–91
Black Hills (South Dakota), 234
Black Hills (Wyoming), 234, 235–37, 238, 242
Bland, James, 356
Blue Mountains (Oregon), 385
Blue Water Creek, Battle of, 213–14
Boardman, John, 235
Boise, Idaho, 5
“bolster”, wagon, 69–70
Bond, Ward, 9, 145
Bonneville, Benjamin: expedition of, 100, 108
Bonneville Lake (Idaho), 369–70
Book of Mormon, 263, 264–65
Boorstin, Daniel, 78, 203, 373
Bowdoin College: Rinker at, 12–13, 239, 240, 356
Bozeman Trail, 244
Brenneman, Tell, 341
Bridgeport, Nebraska, 221
Bridger, Jim, 233, 340
bridge(s)
and Big Blue River crossing, 140, 146–50
at Burnt Ranch, 315–23
and Delaware River crossing, 141–43, 144, 145–46
expansion joints on, 147–50
irrigation technology and, 173
in Little Sandy Creek country, 151
at Strawberry Creek, 300
Brown County Agricultural Museum, 97–98
Brown, Randy, 183, 251–58, 269, 278, 279
Bruff, J. Goldsborough, 278, 353–54
Bruneau Dunes (Idaho), 369
Buck, Bryan (brother), 141, 142, 143, 145
Buck, Ferriss (sister), 25
Buck, Kernahan (brother), 9, 11, 12, 79, 141
Buck, Nicholas “Nick” (brother)
as actor, 28–29, 156, 161–62, 405
artifact knowledge of, 25
asking for help of, 160–61
and children along the trail, 134, 297–98
and daily life on trail, 127, 151–52, 164, 165, 175, 405
and decision about driver for Oregon Trail trip, 87–88
driving skills of, 121, 225–26, 237, 304, 307–8, 362–66, 407
and father’s collections, 62–63
father’s relationship with, 196, 205
fears of, 85–86
feelings about Oregon Trail trip of, 336, 350, 405, 407
financial affairs of, 24
and flashbacks of father, 333
as horseman, 24, 28
injuries of, 22, 24
and launching of Oregon Trail trip, 82, 83, 84, 85–86, 87–88
in Maine, 22–26, 121
Mormons’ meeting with, 281, 282, 284, 285–86
Oregon activities of, 404–5
personality of, 22, 23, 25, 26–27, 28, 47, 54, 57, 83–84, 95, 121, 149–50, 161, 205, 225–26, 245, 334
and plans and preparations for Oregon Trail trip, 21–22, 24–29, 30, 45–47, 48, 50, 51, 53–54, 57–58, 59, 62, 63, 64
and Poopy problem, 25–26
popularity of, 404–5
professional background of, 23–24
reputation of, 22, 24, 25, 205
return to East of, 405–8
sleep of, 83, 98, 139, 336, 338, 340, 356, 398
volunteer activities of, 22–23, 24
wagon shops tour by, 405–7
See also Buck family: covered wagon trips to Pennsylvania by; specific site or incident on Oregon Trail trip
Buck, Nicholas “Nick” (brother)—and Rinker
Casper fight between, 259–62
and Nick’s plans to return to Maine, 28–29, 156–57, 160–62, 165, 336
relationship between, 45–47, 50, 82, 83–85, 155–56, 160–62, 165, 201, 206, 225–26, 228, 245, 262, 305, 367, 368, 375, 379, 407, 408
and Rinker’s feelings about the Oregon Trail trip, 416
and Rinker’s getting rid of possessions, 114
and Rinker’s old riding saddle, 21–22, 162
and Rinker’s presents for Nick, 406
and Rinker’s solo drive into Oregon, 380–82
and selling the mules, 401, 402–3
Buck, Rinker
and asking for help, 160–61
crazyass passion of, 20, 82, 335, 381, 416
depression of, 238–39, 251
doubts of, 292
dreams of Oregon Trail trip of, 1–7, 112
financial affairs of, 13
flashbacks about father of, 192–96, 201, 238, 332, 333, 356–60, 372, 414
hypoxia of, 274, 277, 287, 291, 306, 329, 332, 367
impact of Oregon Trail trip on, 414, 416
motivation of, 189, 190, 337, 372
naiveté of, 293–94, 332
and Nick’s plans to return to Maine, 156–57, 160–62, 165, 336
Nick’s relationship with, 45–47, 50, 82, 83–85, 155–56, 160–62, 165, 201, 206, 225–26, 228, 245, 262, 305, 407, 408
personal and professional background of, 8–14, 21, 23, 78, 79–81, 80, 94–97, 121, 194–95, 238–39, 357
personality of, 8, 14, 26–27, 28, 54, 79–80, 83, 121, 122, 150, 160–61, 228, 245, 407
return to East of, 415–16
role model for, 96–97, 160
self-image of, 312–13
uncertainty as mantra of, 201, 202, 294, 416
See also Oregon Trail, Rinker’s trip on; specific person or topic
Buck, Tom (father)
antiwar speech of, 240–42
appearance of, 357–58, 360
camera of, 357–60
collections of, 62–63
death of, 62, 194–95
decline of, 192–93
and Delaware River bridge crossing, 141–43, 144, 145–46, 194
as enabler, 196
and family covered wagon trips, 8–9, 10, 11–12, 12, 63, 79–81, 80, 141–43, 144, 145–46, 194, 202, 332, 372
financial affairs of, 23
and lifting grain sacks incident, 332, 333
New York City meeting between Buck and, 357–60
Nick’s relationship with, 196, 205, 381
“Piker” comment of, 78
and “pioneering spirit,” 80
Buck, Tom (father) (cont.)
professional background of, 8, 95
retirement of, 356
Rinker’s flashbacks/memories of, 191, 192–96, 201, 238, 332, 333, 356–60, 372, 381, 414
Rinker’s relationship with, 14, 121, 145–46, 194–96, 238–42, 356–60, 372, 381
as role model, 96–97, 160
Saturday-morning rides of, 94–97
volunteer activities of, 95
Buck family, covered wagon trips to Pennsylvania by, 8–9, 10, 11–12, 12, 13, 63, 79–81, 80, 141–43, 144, 145–46, 191, 194, 202, 332, 372
Bureau of Land Management, U.S. (BLM), 254, 257, 269, 300, 317, 318, 319, 320, 328, 343, 346, 347, 367, 398
Burlington Northern Railroad, 16, 172
Burnt Ranch (Wyoming), 293, 312, 313–23
Burnt River Canyon (Oregon), 392–95
Burton, Sir Richard, 234, 313, 340
Bush, George W., 271–72
Bute (mule)
and Big Blue River crossing, 147, 150
at Burnt Ranch, 316
at California Hill, 206–9, 211–12
calling of, 93, 94
cattle guards and, 245
and crossing bridges, 147, 150, 151
at Fort Fetterman, 245, 246–51
and hogs incident, 154, 155
at Holtz’ Idaho ranch, 404, 414
Mattie’s (Stevenson) driving of, 298
Nick’s special caring for, 400–401
at O’Fallon’s Bluff, 198, 199
in Oregon, 392–95
personality of, 49, 82, 86, 91, 198, 399
problems with, 119,
120
and Rinker’s doubts about the trip, 82
Rinker’s goodbye to, 415
and Rinker’s solo drive into Oregon, 381
at Rocky Ridge, 306
as runaway at Fort Fetterman, 246–51
sale of, 396–97, 399–404
selection of, 49
shoes for, 380
and train at Lookout Mountain, 392–95
weather and, 154, 155, 156
See also mules, Rinker’s
California Hill (Nebraska), 78, 116, 174, 197, 203–9, 209, 210, 211–12, 234, 399, 407
California Trail, 38, 40, 116, 252, 297, 371
camera: Rinker gets father’s, 357–60
camp towns, 212–13, 344, 345. See also specific camp
canals
mules and, 42–43
wagons and, 70–71
Cantrell, Ed, 291
Canvas Caravans (Hanna), 371
carts
wagons rebuilt as, 108
See also handcarts; “Trail Pup” cart
Cascade Mountains, 385
Casper Star-Tribune newspaper, 260
Casper, Wyoming, 233, 234, 235–36, 257, 258, 259–62, 268, 279, 347
Castle Creek (Wyoming): Stull grave at, 252, 253
Cather, Willa, 106
Catholics, 23, 411
Catlin, George, 103
cattle guards, 218–20, 219, 220, 229, 244–45, 246
Cavalry, U.S., 212, 243, 244
Cayuse Indians, 108, 410–13, 414
Census Bureau, U.S., 135