"After waiting for a few moments I was ushered into a small room with a high ceiling and long French windows facing the river. It was the untidiest room I had ever seen, chairs, tables and sofas being littered with documents, maps, pamphlets and papers in English, French and Arabic. At a desk piled high with documents that had overflowed on to the carpet sat a slender woman in a smart sports frock of knitted silk, pale tan in colour. As she rose I noticed that her figure was still willowy and graceful. Her delicate oval face with its firm mouth and chin and steel-blue eyes and with its aureole of soft grey hair, was the face of a'grande dame.' There was nothing of the weather-beaten hardened explorer in her looks or bearing. 'Paris frock, Mayfair manners.' And this was the woman who had made Sheikhs tremble at the thought of the Anglez!
"Her smile was completely disarming as was the gesture with which she swept all the papers from the sofa to the floor to make room for me ..."]
To H.B.
BAGDAD, March 12th, 1924.
... Saturday the 15th was the anniversary of the Nahdhah, the Arab Awakening, i.e. of their joining in the war in 1916, and the ceremonies fixed for it were (a) a review of Iraq troops, (b) the laying of the foundation stone of the central building of the University of Al al Bait, (c) the opening of the Divinity School of that University, Faisal having laid the first brick two years ago.
Mr. Cooke dashed in on Thursday evening and asked me to write the leader for the papers about it. So I jumped up at 5:30 a.m. on Friday and complied. It was very important to get the right note. The functions were wonderful; for the first time I felt that we really had wakened up and become a nation. The review was at 9 on the Arab polo ground. Ken and I drove out and as we went saw the boy scouts marching along to line the roads. The whole town turned out, and the King taking the salute and looking so happy, Sir Henry, Sir John Salmond and all their staffs and all the notables, and Fahad Bey our great nomad sheikh, standing as close as possible to the King and Zaid. The troops were wonderful — as smart as could be, and all our soldiers said that they had accomplished a miracle in the last year.
When that was over, we went on to the Al al Bait. It's in a charming spot, barley growing under palms and nabk trees — thick evergreen trees- and the road running through the middle to the great dome of your imagination...
Then the King came, walking down on the carpeted path under the palm trees, between rows of clapping people. Presently they went up onto the platform and I slipped after them and not only got my photograph but heard what was said. And it was memorable, for after H.M. had laid the stone, Saiyid Mahmud, the Naqib's son, read a prayer in the name of King Faisal son of H.M. King Hussain ibn Ali Amiral Muminin and Khalifat al Muslimin. I must say my heart gave a jump — the Khalifat back to the Arabs!
Next came the opening of the Divinity School; the police were wonderful; the place was packed with cars and carriages and we all got away without any difficulty at all. Ken's chauffeur was on the look out for me, caught me and packed me into the car. We drove back together rejoicing, oh rejoicing so much. We agreed the time hadn't quite come to say our Nunc Dimittis, but we thought it would be appropriate to embark on the opening verse of some song of thanksgiving or other.
What do you think, we spent a riotous evening being taught Mah Jong by Capt. C.! We loved it and mean to go on with it when we've time. Wasn't it lucky I had it.
On Sunday Ken took us with him to the Sarai, for I was going to my museum, and there I fell into one of the worst passions I've ever been in. I found old — - mending the flowers from Ur with huge blobs of plaster of Paris so that the stone petals quite disappeared in them. I told him he was never to mend anything again and sent for a friend of mine, an antiquity dealer to repair the damage which he has done.
After that feeling rather upset, I came home and arranged flowers and played in my garden...
Next day, March 17th, was St. Patrick's day and the Enniskillings gave a splendid show, trooping the colour. We all went. They kept murmuring "Beautiful, beautiful! habu, habu!" And "This is an army," they said. I reminded them that we had been at it a long time and the Iraq army 3 years and suggested, to cheer them, that we might smarten the latter up by putting the big-drummer into a leopard skin. "Yes," said Zaid, delighted, "we'll kill the King's leopard and dress him up in it."
I did like that morning — and what fine folk we are, to be sure...
I didn't get back from the trooping of the colour till 11:30 and had a terrific day's work writing the Intelligence Report for the mail. It was finished about 5 by dint of letting no one interrupt me.
To F.B.
BAGDAD, March 18th, 1924.
Send me out some mules (not for riding, for wearing on the feet). You get them at the Galerie Lafayette in Regent St. Black and gold, red and gold and blue and gold brocade are what I should like, one pair of each.
To H.B.
March 27th, 1924.
Well, my doings are not without moment. First Kish. We found an atmosphere of electric gloom and learnt afterwards that they had expected to find us such that in the first half hour Prof. Langdon would close down the excavations and Mr. Mackay would find himself without a job. So I, unknowing, while eating a scrap of lunch, explained that my object was to leave, as far as possible, the tablets to them for they should be at the disposition of students. On the other hand, they would have to make up by parting with some other fine objects. "Who decides," said the Professor, "if we disagree?" I replied that I did, but he needn't be afraid for he would find me eager to oblige. I said "Come on, Professor, you'll see how it works out." So we went to his tent where all the tablets were exposed. There was one unique object, a stone tablet inscribed with what is probably the oldest known human script. The Professor positively pressed it on me; he said he had copied it and read it and didn't mind what happened. So I took it. Then we went to a little room where all the other objects were, and began on the beads and jewels. There was a lovely pomegranate bud earring, found in the grave of a girl, time of Nebuchadnezzar, and he set against it a wonderful copper stag, early Babylonian and falling into dust. It was obvious that we here could not preserve the latter, as I explained. I took the pomegranate bud and he was pleased. So we turned to the necklaces, and we picked, turn and turn about. And thus with all the rest. The Professor grew more and more excited. It is very amusing to do I must say. And isn't it fantastic to be seeing pots and things four to six thousand years old! I got a marvellous stone inlay of a Sumerian king leading captives and not being at all nice to them, and a mother of pearl inlay of a king and his wives — inscribed with his name. The Professor got, what he longed for, a mother of pearl inlay representing a milking scene — you see I have my milking scene in the great plaque from Ur.
We worked from 1:30 to 10:30, with brief intervals for tea and dinner, choosing and packing, till I felt absolutely broken with fatigue — so tired that I couldn't sleep and when I slept dreamt restlessly. I was up at 7 and out to see the zigurrat where I met J.M. We began work again at 8 and went On till 11, by which time all was finished and packed except 3 huge Hamurabi pots which J.M. and I carried home on our knees. We went out, before we left, to see the palace — amazing! a niched and columned court (it's 4000 B.C. or thereabouts) with a stair leading up to an audience hall, unexcavated as yet...
(Oh dear, I've just seen the first mosquito of the season
The deputies are all pouring in and most of them pour through my office...
Out in the afternoon to see Haji Naji M.P. and had a very consoling and soothing talk with him. He's a fund of loyal good sense. And, Father, he wants another pair of pruning scissors. Will you get one for me? Not too big. Oh, but the really important thing I forgot — in the morning J.M. telephoned to me that Professor Sayce was "loafering" about the Museum and would I come at once. So I rushed up in a launch and there he was, looking exactly the same as when I lunched with him in Edinburgh 10 years ago. He had arrived from Damascus the day before by car, and he is80. But he is not nearly as young a
s you physically though for wits he is bad to beat. I fell into his arms and showed him our treasures with which he was unspeakably thrilled.
I had tea with A.V.M. Higgins who had just arrived. I happened in the course of conversation to quote Herbert [Richmond] and he mentioned that in all the three services there was no one whose opinion he valued so highly. That was nice, wasn't it.
I'm writing in the middle of the night, being unable to sleep.
To H.B.
BAGDAD, April 1, 1924.
Well, the Assembly. The King came in looking very wonderful in full Arab dress. The Ministers followed him and sat down on either side, he sitting on the dais. He was tremendously clapped. Then he read his speech from the throne, a very fine bit of oratory and most moving. I think I have never seen him so much agitated; his voice shook. After it his procession reformed and he left.
Then they elected their President — a moment of breathless excitement. They all wrote their choice on bits of paper and dropped them into a box.
The annual lunch and sports of the Iraq army, a spring festival in the Maude gardens, this year swelled by all the deputies. It was really great fun, H.M. and Zaid, H.E., the Air Marshals and all the male world, and me in my official capacity. Such an atmosphere of goodwill and gratification too. At lunch I sat between two ministers with the President of the Assembly opposite. They do their lunch very well it is quite simple and good Arab food, sheep roasted whole, with rice, and a sweet and fruit, and it's quite short. The reports were very amusing, full of 'entrain,' and they only lasted an hour. H.M. gave the prizes and we all got away by 3 p.m.
I'll give you an outline of the next few days : tomorrow a garden party at the Residency to meet the deputies; Friday a lunch at Kadhimain to say goodbye to J. M. Wilson who is going on leave, and an official dinner at the Palace to Sir John. Saturday I'm going to see H.M. cut the first sod (if u can call it a sod) of a new canal at Najaf. And on Sunday Ramadhan begins, thank goodness. At 6:30 Ken and I were = at the station, prepared to travel in the Royal train to Karbala. We got to Karbala at 10:30 and found a crowd at the station. H.M. was most enthusiastically received.
This over we hustled into motors, Ken and I and Col. Tainsh together — we were the only Europeans there. And motored through dust and a high hot wind, just like summer, for an hour and a quarter down the Najaf road. We alighted in an arid wilderness where the King lifted the first spadeful of sand of the first canal which is to supply Najaf with water.
To H.B.
BAGDAD, April 9th, 1924.
... So we motored back to Karbala and while the King went to Make a pilgrimage in the two mosques, we repaired to the bazaar where I bought shoes with turned up toes, yellow, red and blue.
To F.B.
BAGDAD, April 10th, 1924.
...And will you please do a commission for me next time you are in London — no other than to buy me a new every morning hat. The one I have has faded so dreadfully. I enclose a Picture of a Woolland hat which seems to me nice, together with the approximate colour of the straw — the trimming should be a shade darker ...
Summer has begun lamentably early this year. I like the present temperature — 80 to 90 — but it has come a month too soon. I expect we're in for a scorching time.
I must tell you something which has pleased me. I sent Mr. Scott, of the Manchester Guardian, my article about the Al al Bait university and he telegraphs asking for plans and photographs which I'm despatching this week. I hope he intends to put a very friendly article into his paper.
I woke up this morning at 3 a.m. — it's now 4 and I have just heard the gun which announces the beginning of the day's fast. The Muezzin next door to me is chanting the call to prayer in his tiny mosque.
To H.B.
BAGDAD, April 15th, 1924.
...Yes, of course I think that there is a rationalizing spirit abroad in the East just as much as in the West, and do you know I think it will go much quicker here than it did with us because we have broken down the barriers and set the example which they will be eager to follow.
[She tells that she had a dinner party where one of the guests was a somewhat enterprising storyteller.)
One of the stories I will tell you — I laughed at it too. "How would you punctuate this sentence — Mary ran out into the garden naked?" Ken said: "with a full stop, I hope." "No," said Sir - "a dash after Mary."
On Sunday morning I went to my Museum where I had various visitors including Ken. It really is fun showing people over the museum; there are such wonderful things to be seen in it.
I've never had so many roses in my garden before — it blushes with them. And lovely carnations, stock, larkspur and things as well.
To H.B.
BAGDAD, April 21st, 1924.
When I left the office I motored out to Kadhimain to see a very interesting woman, who is the mother of the Agha Khan and manages all his vast businesses, secular and religious, while he is in Europe. She is on pilgrimage here and is going on to Mashhad in Persia and so back to India via Seistan! — something of a journey, but she seems to take it in her stride...
...I dined with Nigel Davidson to meet the very nice Colonel of the Inniskillings, Col. Ridings...
In this phantasmagoria of a week we all went off to the circus.
it was a Belgian circus. Now I don't think I've been to a circus since the age of 6 but I shall never lose an opportunity of going to every one I can. It was delicious, so funny and so clever and so amazing. It was composed of every race under the sun; there were Japanese and Indians and Sudanese and Belgians who spoke broken English and yet more broken Arabic. But the nicest thing of all was the elephants on a seesaw. The elephant bumped the see-saw down and jumped the acrobat into the air, so high that he alighted on the elephant's head and slipped down his back and his tail. Then the audience were invited to participate and a lot of Arab coolie boys ran into the arena. Some were white with fear at being confronted with so large an animal; but the elephant loved it. He bumped them up and they fell all ways some onto the plank and some on to the ground, till at last one, more by good luck than by any skill, succeeded in falling on to the elephant's head. And we rocked with laughter — all except the Kurdish deputies who sat together in a box and never Moved a muscle the whole evening. I suppose they thought it beneath their Kurdish dignity to laugh at elephants and coolie boys...
After lunch I rode up to the hospital to visit the Sheikhs. It wrung my heart. Addai whom I adore looked so white and tired. Salman with two compound fractures in the arms and a bullet through his leg declaring roundly that it was of no consequence. I sat with them not more than five minutes and they sent a boy running after me to beg me to hurry on the work. It is their blood which has hurried on the work!
Darling, I tell you all these things about my sheikhs and people and I daresay you think them very silly. I know I'm not seeing to scale, but my heart is in it — I live and die for it. Nothing else matters...
To H.B.
April 29th, 1924.
... In the evening I dined alone, and had dined early — by luck, when at 8 p.m. came a telephone message to say the King wanted me. I motored up to the Palace — he sent me a car. The little Palace in the Garden. It was a strange sight in Ramadhan. In the lighted rooms of the Pavilion I caught a glimpse of long robed figures saying their prayers. ...
In the long saloon I found the King in full Arab dress, white and gold and black. There may be (I don't say there are not) more momentous affairs elsewhere, but there is nowhere I'll be bound where they are presented to you in such a setting. That night was unforgettable. The praying tribesmen, the King in white robes, the riot of flowers around the pavilion, and the sandflies goading you to distraction, while you try to think straight.
Your letter of April 15th: I'm not one of those whom Iraq keeps or sends away. I'm on the High Com.'s staff as long as there is a High Com. and a British Government servant. All you say on wages and economics is most interesting and most sound — but hard for gene
ral understanding.
To F.B.
BAGDAD, April 30th, 1924.
... Summer has come and I find I want another lace gown to wear in the evenings. I would like a black one for I have a silver 'fourreau' which it will go with. so will you please send me four and a half yards of black filet lace two and a half inches wide. And the great thing is to get a lace covered with pattern as much as possible, not with a big stretch of blank net at the top if You understand me.
I forgot to tell Father that my picture for the King has come, in a gorgeous frame. I sent it to him yesterday but have not yet heard from him.
I had a very nice dinner party on Friday. The Colonel of the Inniskillings, Col. Ridings, (he knows the eldest Dorman and has stayed with him). He brought a charming Captain Vaughan, very keen about antiquities. There were also delightful Major and Mrs. Gore, such nice people, and Captain Braham, my beloved doctor. We sat in the garden after dinner for the first time, with Bagdad lanterns hanging in the trees and they thought it a half acre cut out of Paradise. It did indeed look lovely.
To-day I went to the Museum in the morning where Sir Henry, Esme and Captain Vaughan visited us. I burst with pride when I show people over the Museum. It is becoming such a wonderful place. It was a great morning because there were 6 boxes from Kish to be unpacked — the remainder of our share. Such copper instruments as have never before been handed down from antiquity; the shelves shout with them
To F.B.
May 5th, 1924.
Could you please send me a bit of lace like the enclosed to renovate a muslin gown. This is exactly the quantity I want and it must be very good otherwise it washes to a rag. This was very good but you see how it is worn out. I think this kind is best.
To H.B.
BAGDAD, May 14th, 1924.
I'm waiting for two old Turbans. I hope they'll come soon for I want to ride before dinner. — They came, nice old things.
Letters From Baghdad Page 72