by Mike Graf
The group looked at Tom eagerly.
“Well,” Tom finished, “Yellowstone Lake freezes over in winter. Apparently, when the lake was iced over, a mother grizzly walked out there with her two cubs. When the lake thawed out in the springtime, the mother swam back and left the cubs behind. We discovered the grizzlies because boat tours saw them on the island. A group of rangers went out there and trapped the bears and brought them back to the mainland. They were old enough to be on their own at that point anyway.
“Enough of my stories,” Tom said. “Please enjoy Storm Point, and in a little while, we’ll continue on our way.”
The Parkers sat on the rocks overlooking the lake.
The group hung around a few more minutes. Then Tom said, “Let’s get going, everyone. I need to get you back to your cars now.”
The Parkers and the other hikers followed Tom through a more forested part of the trail. Eventually they were all back to their cars at the trailhead.
“I’m glad we went on that walk,” Dad said to James and Morgan. “It was neat to learn more about Yellowstone’s geology, especially from you two.”
“And from Tom,” Morgan added.
11
Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad stood on top of a bluff. They could see all the way down to Heart Lake, where they would camp for the next two nights. Massive Mt. Sheridan, with its fire tower on top, was to their right.
“What a great way to end our trip,” Dad said, “backpacking in Yellowstone.”
“I agree,” Mom added. “The Yellowstone backcountry wilderness awaits.”
Morgan noticed a pink mud hole near the top of the hill. “Look at that!”
The mud pot was belching up pink splats of mud. Other holes nearby were steaming, boiling, and hissing.
“Even way out here, the Yellowstone show goes on,” Dad commented.
They hiked the last three miles down to Heart Lake. Along the way, they passed pools of steaming water.
“Just some more examples of the over 10,000 thermal features in Yellowstone,” Dad said. “It makes me feel like we aren’t on planet Earth.”
They came to a small footbridge. Witch Creek flowed steadily underneath it. Mom knelt down to touch the water. “Warm,” she informed her family, “like a hot bath.”
As they approached the lake, they saw a backcountry ranger cabin.
“Quite a job to be stationed out here for the summer,” Mom stated.
Dad pointed to a bunch of scratches and claw marks outside the cabin. “Maybe it isn’t that fun. Look at these!”
“Are you thinking what I’m thinking?” James asked.
“Yes, if you think those are from a bear,” Dad replied.
James looked at the bear-spray canisters clipped on Mom and Dad’s belts. “That’s what I was thinking.”
The trail veered to the right, following the shoreline of Heart Lake. A side trail led to the top of Mt. Sheridan.
A little more than a mile past the ranger cabin, a small sign next to the trail read 8H3 + 8H2.
“Here’s our home for the next two nights,” Mom announced.
Mom led the way toward their site. She pointed to a wooden pole that was secured high above the ground between two trees. “There’s the bear pole.”
A short distance away they found a flat tent area with a view overlooking Heart Lake.
“We couldn’t have a prettier site,” Dad said.
Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad set up camp. They pitched their tent on the flat spot and put on warm clothes. As evening set in, they cooked dinner at the fire pit near the bear pole.
“It’s quiet out here,” Morgan noticed.
“I love it!” Dad said. “Along with that sound of running water. Which reminds me, I’m going to go filter some water from the creek before dark.”
Dad took four bottles and the filter over to the nearby stream. He crossed a little footbridge that led to a small, clear pool of water.
James, Morgan, and Mom put all their food and cooking gear into their packs and changed clothes. “To make sure you don’t bring any food scent into the tent,” Mom explained.
While Dad filtered, he saw a family cooking at the campsite next to theirs.
Dad waved to the family.
The father waved back.
Dad noticed a couple of fishing rods leaning against the trees.
After filtering, Dad walked over to chat with the family.
Meanwhile, Morgan, James, and Mom hoisted their packs high up on the bear pole and tied them securely. It was nearly dark when Dad returned.
“We were wondering about you,” Morgan said.
“There’s a nice family camped across the creek,” Dad said. “It’s good to have some other people nearby, I think.”
Morgan, James, and Mom climbed into the tent. Under the darkened skies, Dad stood outside for a moment. He scanned the wooded area near camp, the distant slopes up Mt. Sheridan, and peaceful Heart Lake. Finally, Dad changed clothes and hung the worn ones in a sack alongside the backpacks. Then Dad joined his family inside.
Once they were all snug in their sleeping bags, the Parkers fell asleep to the sounds of the wilderness night.
• • •
“Ow … ow … owwwwww!”
Several hours later, howling started.
Morgan heard it first. Her heart beat quickly as she listened.
“Ow … ow!”
“Is anyone awake?” Morgan whispered.
“I am,” Mom answered.
“Owww … owww …”
Dad sat up. “Those are wolves!”
“I’m getting goose bumps just listening to them,” James said.
The howling continued. Morgan scooted closer to her parents. “It’s spooky sounding.”
“I certainly agree with that,” Dad said. “But it’s also pretty cool. Having packs of wolves roaming about in Yellowstone is one of the greatest wildlife recovery stories ever.”
WOLF WATCH
After being gone for more than fifty years, wolves have returned to Yellowstone. In 1995 and 1996, thirty-one gray wolves were released in the park. Now there are about 120 wolves living in Yellowstone, although the number fluctuates yearly.
Wolves eat mostly elk, but will occasionally eat deer and younger or older bison, which are easier to prey upon.
Yellowstone visitors see wolves nearly every day. There are even guided groups that go out and look for wolves in places such as the Lamar Valley. Wolf watching is now one of the most popular activities in the park.
James moved closer to Mom and Dad too. “I wouldn’t worry about them,” Mom reassured. “They’re a long way off, and they certainly aren’t interested in us.”
After a while, the howling faded. “They must be wandering away,” Mom said.
Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad slowly fell back to sleep.
12
Mom opened the tent window.
“It’s nice to have daylight back,” James commented.
Mom smiled. “I know what you mean.”
The Parkers got up. They walked over to the cooking area.
Morgan looked up at their dangling backpacks. “Everything looks the same as when we left it.”
One by one, they untied and lowered their packs to eye level. They washed their hands with water from the bottles and pulled out food for the day. Dad started preparing oatmeal. James made peanut butter sandwiches. Mom and Morgan grabbed the water bottles and filter and headed for the stream.
Mom stopped. A large pile of scat was just off the path. “Whoa. That looks like it’s from a bear.”
“How do you know?” Morgan asked.
“Just by the size of it, and that bears eat so many different things,” Mom replied. “This scat has fur and berries in it.”
Immediately, Mom and Morgan looked around. They didn’t see any bears. Then Mom realized she wasn’t carrying her bear spray.
“Come on, Morgan,” Mom said. “We can’t filter water right now.”
Morgan and Mom turned around and walked back to camp. Mom grabbed her bear spray, then looked at Dad. “Can I show you something, Robert?”
Dad heard the seriousness in Mom’s voice. “Of course.”
“Get your bear spray first,” Mom directed. “And James, you come with us too, okay?”
Mom and Morgan walked Dad and James over to the pile of scat.
“Was this here yesterday?” Mom asked Dad.
Dad looked at the scat. “I walked this exact path to the stream last night. I think I would have noticed it. But it was almost dark, so I can’t be sure.”
“It doesn’t look that fresh,” Mom said.
“Was it a black bear or a grizzly?” James asked nervously.
Mom put her hand on James’s shoulder. “That is something we just can’t tell by scat.”
Dad looked across the small creek. In the distance, he saw the family he had met the day before, now tearing down their camp. Dad looked at Mom. “I’m going to go and talk with them for a minute. I’ll take my spray with me. I’ll be right back, okay?”
Mom nodded. “We’ll be getting ready for the day. Hurry. Be quick.”
“I’ll be just a minute,” Dad said seriously.
Morgan, James, and Mom walked back to their cooking area. Meanwhile, Dad crossed the small bridge and walked up to the family. “Good morning,” he greeted them.
“Good morning,” the father replied.
“Did you see a bear around last night?” Dad asked.
The father shook his head. “No.”
Dad told the family about the scat. “Are you heading out today?”
“Yes,” the mother answered. “We only reserved our campsite for last night.”
Dad gestured toward the fishing rods. “Are you going to do any fishing?”
“Definitely,” the father answered. “Before we go.”
“Where’s a good fishing spot?” Dad inquired.
“Actually,” the father replied, “the ranger told us right here, where this stream runs into Heart Lake.”
“Really?” Dad replied.
“So,” the mother explained, “my husband and older son are going to fish while my other son and I climb Mt. Sheridan. We’ll all meet at the junction this afternoon at 3:00 p.m. and hike out together.”
Dad nodded. “That sounds like a great plan.”
The older boy smiled. “Do you want to join us?”
“You’ve got me thinking,” Dad replied. “Can you come over to our site on the way out?”
“Sure,” the boy answered.
Dad walked back and explained his idea to Morgan, James, and Mom.
“It’ll give me a chance to fish for a few hours,” Dad said.
“And I really want to hike to the top of that mountain,” Mom said.
“I want to go fishing!” Morgan exclaimed.
“Me too,” James added.
Dad looked at his children. “What do you think?” he asked Mom.
“I think the three of you will be fine,” Mom answered. “And I’ll be hiking with two other people, so we’ll all be in a group.”
“How about this?” Dad added. “We’ll meet you at the trailhead to Mt. Sheridan at 3:00 p.m. to accompany you back.”
“I appreciate that,” Mom said. “But it’s only a half mile or so back to here on the main trail. I’ll be fine.”
Dad gave Mom a concerned look. “Okay,” he reluctantly agreed.
The other family walked over to the Parkers’ campsite.
The father introduced his family. “I’m Mark and this is my wife, Catherine. Our younger son, Troy, is going hiking. Our older son, Vincent, wants to fish. Anyway, we’re the Alexander clan, or what’s left of it,” Mark finished. “Our two daughters have grown up and moved away.”
Mark and Vincent looked at Dad. Dad nodded back in recognition.
“Is it okay if we hang our two packs up here with yours while we fish?” Mark asked. “We don’t know if someone’s going to move into our site soon or not.”
“Of course,” Dad replied.
“You’ve got your bear spray, right?” Dad asked Mom.
Mom pointed to her belt. “And I can see yours is ready too.”
Dad kissed Mom good-bye.
“Have fun hiking,” James said.
“Bye, Mom,” Morgan added.
Mom took off with Catherine and Troy. The three of them hiked back to the main trail and turned right. They disappeared over a small hill. Dad got out the fishing rods. Then he tied on some flies.
Mark and Vincent also prepared their rods. A moment later, the five of them tramped down to the water.
Dad helped James and Morgan get started. He watched them cast their flies onto the lake. “Snap your elbow or wrist when you let the line go,” Dad instructed. “That will give you more distance in your cast.”
After a while, Dad cast his line and let his fly gracefully touch the surface of Heart Lake. Then he inched his line in.
Dad looked at his surroundings. The surface of the water was calm. A mirror image of the mountains and forest nearby was reflected in the lake’s waters.
“It’s a perfect morning!” Dad announced.
“That it is,” Mark responded. “That it is.”
• • •
Mom, Catherine, and Troy reached the Mt. Sheridan Trail junction. Catherine and Troy tied up their packs on the bear pole nearby. Once they finished, they headed up the trail to Mt. Sheridan.
They stayed close together and kept a steady pace for their assault of the summit.
13
Mom, Catherine, and Troy continued climbing. They talked and made noise along the trail, hoping to not surprise any bears that might be nearby. The path to the summit zigzagged through the forest, eventually heading up into more-open areas.
Two backcountry rangers heading down the mountain passed them on the trail.
“Hello,” one of them greeted Mom’s group. “You’re doing great, you’re almost there.”
“Thanks,” Catherine said back.
The two rangers quickly hiked down and were soon out of sight.
The trail reached over 10,000 feet in elevation. The bushes and trees were sparse, short, and stunted by the weather. There were meadows full of wildflowers. A patch of snow still clung to a cirque, or circular-shaped area created by a glacier, near the top of the mountain.
I wish Dad and the twins were seeing this, Mom thought.
• • •
“Why don’t we move to a new spot?” Dad suggested. “The fish must be spooked in this area by now anyway.”
“They probably heard us talking,” James said.
“Come over here first,” Dad said.
Morgan and James walked over to Dad. Dad showed them his collection of flies. “Do you want to try a different one?”
“How about the one with stripes?” Morgan asked.
“I like that one too,” James said.
“Ah, the old favorite—guaranteed to catch a fish!” Dad exclaimed proudly. “And I happen to have two of them!”
Dad helped Morgan and James tie on their flies. They walked a short distance to a new spot on the lake and cast their lines.
Dad heard a splash. He turned to see Morgan’s rod bending over.
Morgan looked at Dad. “Pull the rod back quickly!” Dad called out.
Morgan reeled her line in. The fish tried to swim away, bending Morgan’s rod over farther. Morgan continued to reel in the fish. She walked into the water and approached it.
Morgan saw the rainbow-colored trout dash back and forth in the water. She held her rod tightly as the fish continued to fight. Morgan reeled in the line some more. She lifted her line out of the water, but the fish slipped off the hook and plopped back into the lake.
Morgan looked at James and Dad disappointedly.
Dad walked over and shrugged his shoulders. “That’s happened to me many times. Next time you get a bite, though, yank on the line hard to really hook it. Otherwise, the f
ish spit the hook out when they realize it isn’t food.”
“At least you had one!” James said.
“Well, we’re supposed to release the fish anyway,” Morgan said. “I just let it go early.”
Dad laughed. “Very true.”
• • •
Mom, Catherine, and Troy climbed a steep section of the trail. They stopped to rest a moment and look out at the view.
“Hey, I think that group of trees down there is where we’re camped,” Catherine pointed out.
“Look!” Mom exclaimed.
Two large brown animals with enormous curled horns on their heads were under the trees just off the trail.
“Wow,” Catherine whispered. “Bighorns!”
“We’re so close to them,” Mom said.
The bighorns were casually grazing. They seemed to not pay attention to the group.
“I wish my whole family was seeing this,” Mom said.
“Mine too,” Catherine added.
“Can you see our fishermen?” Mom asked.
“The trees are in the way,” Troy responded.
Mom pointed out where the two bodies of water were separated by a peninsula of land. “I can see now why it’s called Heart Lake.”
They came to a knife-edged ridge. A steep drop-off covered by loose rock next to the trail led to what would be a long fall. One by one, Mom, Catherine, and Troy carefully walked across the ridge.
They regathered at the top and continued hiking. The fire tower was just up ahead.
• • •
Dad, James, and Morgan continued fishing. A small, sleek, black head of an animal broke through the surface of the water and swam along.
James watched the animal. Suddenly, it dove underwater. James looked around for a few seconds but didn’t see it come back up. Then the animal resurfaced a short distance away with a small fish in its mouth. The fish wiggled back and forth, trying to escape its captor.
“An otter!” James realized, and Dad laughed. “He’s a heck of a lot better at fishing than we are!”