2007 - Salmon Fishing in the Yemen

Home > Other > 2007 - Salmon Fishing in the Yemen > Page 25
2007 - Salmon Fishing in the Yemen Page 25

by Paul Torday


  Then I heard Fred shout, ‘Be careful! The water is rising! Keep an eye on it!’

  The boss either didn’t hear, or didn’t want to hear. He had let his fly come round and was making his next cast. The rain was coming down like stair rods now, and the river looked as if it was almost boiling under the weight of water coming down out of the sky.

  ‘I think you should come out now!’ shouted Fred. ‘There’s a hell of a lot of water coming down!’

  Even I could see that the water in the wadi was rising. I found I had unconsciously stepped back a couple of yards, higher up the bank. At the same moment Colin began to wade into the river, I suppose to help the sheikh out. I saw our security men looking at each other, wondering what to do.

  There was a flash of lightning, or perhaps it was not lightning, but it made me turn my head and I saw the tribesman I had noticed earlier on the promontory, with his rifle raised to his shoulder. He had either just fired a shot, or was about to fire one. Had I heard a shot? The water coming down the river was beginning to roar now. One of the security people pulled a gun from under his jacket in a single fluid move, and I think he shot the tribesman. At any rate the man fell backwards off the rocky crag and disappeared from my sight. I don’t know who he had been intending to shoot. I think it must have been the sheikh, but I can’t be sure.

  There was uproar and several more shots were fired by the Yemenis, I don’t know what at. I don’t think they had yet grasped what was going on. The crowd broke up, people scrambling up the bank to get away from the river and from the shooting. I found that I was several yards higher up the bank again, my heart thumping in my chest, staring down at the boss.

  He had turned to look at the noise, but he wasn’t moving. I think he was smiling. I don’t think he had seen the tribesman either shooting or being shot, although he knew something had happened, because he had turned to look downstream.

  I saw him look at the sheikh, who was bent over, supported by Colin, who was now at his side and struggling to keep his balance against the weight of water. Maybe the sheikh had been shot. I don’t know.

  Behind the boss I saw a wall of white and brown water come round the corner of the canyon and surge down the wadi towards him. I could see, rather than hear, Fred still screaming to him to get out. Then Fred, too, turned and started to scramble towards safety, up the bank.

  The boss was still smiling, I think. I was some distance away by then, but you can tell sometimes from a person’s posture that they are smiling. He was facing away from the wall of water coming towards him. He must have heard it. I don’t know. Maybe he didn’t. They say you can get very absorbed fishing. At any rate, I like to think—I am as sure as I can be—that as he lifted his rod to make another cast, he was very happy. He was far away from politics, far away from wars, from journalists, from MPs, from generals, from civil servants. He was in a river and there were salmon running past his feet, and with the next cast I am sure he believed he would catch a fish.

  Then the surge hit him. A boiling torrent of brown water, mud, rocks, palm fronds raced down the wadi with a noise like a train, and in a moment Colin, the sheikh and the boss instantly vanished without trace. The wave then powered on and disappeared round the next corner into the canyons far below.

  One second the boss was standing there; the next he was gone. And I never saw him again. Or the sheikh. Or Colin McPherson. They never found their bodies.

  That was what happened when we launched the Yemen salmon project, and the salmon ran in the Wadi Aleyn.

  32

  Dr Jones’s testimony of events which occurred at the launch of the Yemen salmon project

  Dr Alfred Jones:

  From a scientific perspective, the Yemen salmon project was a complete success.

  I knew it was a success from the minute I looked down and saw the salmon entering the water flowing down the wadi. A few days ago they had been thrashing about in a huge cage in a sea loch on the west coast of Scotland, now they were wriggling down a concrete chute from a concrete basin high in the mountains of the Yemen.

  It did not matter to them. The salmon came wriggling down into the wadi, and a few simply went with the current and disappeared downstream. But most of them turned upstream, heading against the flow, not knowing where they might be going, only knowing that they had to head upriver until they found a place to spawn. Their instincts told them what to do, just as I had hoped they would.

  Most of the fish were silver, but a few were already coloured, an indication that the hen fish were ready to spawn the thousands of eggs they carried, and the cock fish ready to inject their milt and so fertilise the eggs. My eyes filled with tears as I thought of it all: here, at the tip of the Arabian peninsula, though thousands of miles from their home waters, the salmon were ready to do their duty.

  As I watched their fins cutting through the water, I felt a sense of elation. And I remembered the sheikh’s words, that we would see a miracle, and I knew that was what I had just witnessed. I remembered Harriet telling me the sheikh would think the project had been a success if one single fish ran up the wadi. Now there were hundreds. One fresh fish was already netted and killed, inside my jacket. I had to somehow insert it onto the end of the prime minister’s line, to make sure he caught his fish.

  Then I noticed the colour of the water changing, the sound of the river beginning to grow, the noise of the waters cascading down from the peaks far above becoming angrier and more threatening. The sky was darkening to a deep, inky black.

  It was a plug. I should have anticipated it. Such things are not unknown on spate rivers, and that is essentially what the Wadi Aleyn is: a river that goes from almost dry to flash flood and back again in a few hours. Salmon running spate rivers learn to wait for the water. They smell the rain, they know a flood is coming, and then they surge upriver, meeting the torrent with impossible strength and courage, leaping the waves or hanging in the water at the sides of the river when the speed of the flow becomes too great even for them.

  And in spate rivers sometimes you get a plug. The rain is too heavy to soak away into the ground. It runs straight off, and the run-off carries with it mud, dead trees, rocks, and if the debris should come to some constriction in the riverbed, then a temporary dam is formed. The water builds up behind the obstruction until the force is so great that the plug is breached, and then a wall of water goes surging through the breach and on down the river. You don’t want to be standing in the water when that happens.

  And the rain was heavy. The summer rains in the Yemen are really just the tip of a vast system of monsoon rains which miss the rest of Arabia but brush the southern coast of Oman and the Yemen for a few weeks. In those few weeks the rain can fall with the force of a tropical storm, causing flash floods of just the sort we experienced that day in the Wadi Aleyn. I suppose I should have known, but I’m a fisheries scientist not a hydrologist, nor a meteorologist. Nevertheless, I still blame myself for not foreseeing it. Not one of our computer models predicted what happened.

  I remember shouting at the top of my voice to the sheikh and the prime minister to get out, but the growing noise of the river and the hiss as the rain struck the surface of the water drowned out the sound of my voice. Colin saw the change in the river, saw the colour go from clear to brown and heard the menacing change in its song. He knew exactly what was happening but he still waded out into the river to try and save his master. It was calculated heroism. Someone should give him a medal. But too much happened that day, and Colin’s gallantry has been forgotten by most. But not by me.

  I turned and shouted at Peter Maxwell to do something, but Peter’s face was white and strained with fear, and I don’t think he heard me. He started scrambling up the bank to get away from the river. The security men all knew that something was wrong, but they hadn’t worked out where the danger was. They thought it would come from the ridges above; they thought in terms of a human enemy, not a natural one. They were looking the wrong way.

  Then
there was a flash, and a shot was fired from somewhere. That distracted the security people even further. I heard afterwards that one of the sheikh’s bodyguards had been shot, but I never found out why. I didn’t see it. I was looking upriver and screaming at the prime minister to get out of the water.

  Then I saw the wave come round the corner, about 300 metres away, and I thought we would all die. It was a surge about ten feet high, brown and white, coming towards us at the speed of an express train and making much the same sort of noise. In that moment I remember thinking, I hope the salmon don’t all get swept downstream, and then my own instincts took over and the next thing I remember was hanging on to a boulder at the top of the bank while the water tugged at my feet.

  When the waters receded and most of the security people and the sheikh’s bodyguard had headed off downstream to see if they could find the bodies, I stood by the mouth of the channel feeding salmon into the wadi. I watched fish after fish enter the flow, turn as it smelt the water, and head upstream. I stood there without moving for a long time, and my heart was too full to speak. At first a few journalists and TV people came down and tried to get me to comment on what had just happened, but they weren’t interested in my salmon. They only wanted to talk about the accident and the prime minister. They weren’t interested either in what had happened to Colin or to the sheikh. I had nothing to say to them. After a while they went away, and an hour or two later I heard one of the Chinooks lift off, taking them all back to Sana’a to file their stories.

  When the last salmon had left Holding Basin N°1, I sat on a flat rock by the water’s edge. The rain had stopped, and between ragged clouds the sun sank lower in the sky. From time to time I glanced over at the construction site, to see what was going on. I saw Peter Maxwell, a hundred yards or so away, talking endlessly into a mobile phone. I wondered what was so important until I remembered about the prime minister. I sat on the stone, and I thought about the project and the part I had played in it. No matter what happened to me now, they could not take this away from me. This was the greatest achievement of my life. It was not mine alone, but I knew that without me it could not have happened. I found myself wishing that Harriet could have been there, missing her dreadfully, because it was her achievement too, and this would have been her day too. But of course then she would have seen the sheikh being swept away. She had been right when she spoke of her foreboding. And I wished the sheikh could have been there so that I could have shared this achievement with him.

  There was a shout from far upstream, and I saw one of the Yemenis who had gone further upstream to fish come running at top speed down the track. It was Ibrahim, our driver, one of the sheikh’s men. He saw me and screamed, ‘Dr Alfred! Dr Alfred!’

  He ran towards me and I saw that he was carrying a dead salmon in his arms, nursing it like a baby. He must have abandoned his rod when he landed the fish. When he came near I saw that he didn’t yet know what had happened. He might even have been fishing above the plug. At any rate, he had caught a salmon. It was bright silver and weighed, I would guess, about ten pounds. A good fish, an excellent fish. Ibrahim’s face wore a huge smile, and he cried, ‘Dr Alfred! I have one fish!’

  We embraced and slapped each other on the back, and the tears of happiness ran down our cheeks. The fish had fallen into the dust and Ibrahim bent to pick it up, still laughing at his luck. It was the first and, for all I know, the last salmon ever to be caught on the fly in the Yemen. At any rate, I have never heard of any other being caught or even seen swimming in the wadi since that marvellous, terrible day.

  Then I had to tell Ibrahim about the sheikh.

  Later on, as dusk was falling and the rock walls around us turning violet, the search parties trudged back up the canyon. In the endless wilderness of rock and stone, of vertical cliffs and holes through the riverbed into chasms below that formed the lower sections of the wadi, they never found the bodies. I think they were probably swept down a sinkhole into the aquifer itself, and there, in a sunless sea, rest the bodies of Jay Vent, politician, Colin McPherson, matchless gillie, and the Sheikh Muhammad ibn Zaidi bani Tihama, the almost holy man who created the Yemen salmon project.

  Peter Maxwell came over to me. His face was still white, his eyes red, and his mouth set in a bitter, miserable twist. He said, ‘I hope you’re happy now.’

  ‘Yes,’ I said, ‘in many ways it has been an enormous success, though I wish with all my heart we could have avoided loss of life. But, if we are objective about this, Peter, we have achieved everything we set out to achieve from a scientific point of view. The big question is what will happen to the project now the sheikh is dead. You must help me find out who is in charge here now.’

  Peter Maxwell stared at me for along time without speaking. Behind him I saw the security team climbing into the second Chinook.

  ‘I’ll tell you what will happen,’ he said. ‘Your project is finished. You are finished. And I’m finished. You should have known this would happen. You should have known…’

  He began to sob, and I touched his arm to comfort him, but he shrugged me off violently. ‘You’ve killed the best man in the world, one of the greatest men who ever lived, and you’ve ruined my life at the same time. And all you can think of are your bloody fish.’

  He turned away and stumbled towards the helicopter. A moment later, it took off, and I never saw Peter Maxwell again.

  Interrogator:

  Did Peter Maxwell or any other representative of the prime minister’s office contact you after your return to the UK? Has there been any attempt to influence your evidence to us in any way?

  Alfred Jones:

  When I got back to the UK I had become a non-person. When I turned up at Fitzharris & Price to discuss the ongoing management of the project I found that my job there was over. The sheikh’s heirs, whoever they were, did not share his enthusiasm for the project. The funding had been terminated before I even reached the UK. One of the partners in Fitzharris & Price met me in reception when I arrived in St James’s Street to pick up the threads and start work again. He handed me a letter from the firm of accountants who had been managing the finances of the project. The letter thanked me for my efforts in not many more words than those and enclosed a cheque for the next three months’ salary.

  I read the letter then looked at Harriet’s colleague.

  ‘Is that it?’ I asked him. He shrugged his shoulders and said, ‘The rest of us never knew much about it. Grateful while it lasted of course, but we knew it couldn’t go on for ever. It was always Harriet’s baby, and she seems to have resigned her partnership.’

  I never went back to St James’s Street and, as far as I am aware, neither did Harriet.

  I spoke to her once or twice by telephone. She was staying with friends in south-west France and vague about her plans.

  ‘I’m so glad the project succeeded, if only for a day. You must never let anyone take that away from you, Fred. You must treasure that. But I’m sorry we had to pay so very high a price. I miss the sheikh terribly. It’s another death in the family, in a way.’

  ‘When are you coming back to the UK?’ I asked.

  ‘I haven’t any particular plans. I’m not spending much money out here, and my friends seem happy for me to stay as long as I want. I’ve got my own flat in one corner of their house and my own front door, and I can come and go without disturbing them. You know, the sun shines most of the time in this part of the world, and no one bothers me. It’s what I need. I know I’ll run short of money sooner or later, and then I’ll have to think about getting a job. But for now I just want to be quiet.’

  ‘Will I see you when you come back?’ I asked. I hadn’t meant to ask any such thing. I had no right to.

  ‘I don’t know, Fred. I don’t know. We’ll have to see what happens.’

  I heard some weeks later that she’d managed to get a job in France, finding properties for English people looking for second homes.

  Interrogator:

  Pl
ease confirm what contact you have had with Peter Maxwell or his office since your return to England.

  Alfred Jones:

  Oh, I forgot you asked me that. Yes, I did pick up a voicemail from Peter Maxwell saying ‘I’ll make sure you never work again in this country’ or something along those lines, but then I heard him burst into tears just before he hung up so I didn’t take it very seriously. But maybe he did try and stop me being re-employed for some curious reason of his own. I do know that when I applied for my old job at the NCFE I received a very short letter from David Sugden complaining about cutbacks in their budget and regretting that my old position was not going to be filled as a result. I don’t know that I could have gone back there anyway. Then I rang some old friends in the Environment Agency and in the end I did find another job. It’s not a desk job. It’s outdoor work, and the pay is what you might call minimal compared with my old salary. So Mary was right. The good times didn’t last very long, after all.

  I’m working in a new hatchery which has been built on the headwaters of the Coquet in Northumberland. Our job is to rear salmon fry from the egg in rows of stainless steel tanks in a small hut up on the moors. The idea is to ensure there will always be juvenile salmon available to be introduced into the river, even in years when natural production fails because of drought or some other disaster. I like the work. It’s very interesting and often hard labour, but I have plenty of time to think. Thinking is what I do most these days.

  I never talk to anyone about the Yemen salmon project, although I am teased now and again about it by the people I work with.

 

‹ Prev