Preliminary Corrections
We discuss verbal and leash corrections in greater depth when we cover the obedience exercises later in this book. Here we will describe some general guidelines to serve as a foundation. Canines in the wild frequently vocalize to communicate with one another. They growl to maintain and exert authority. They also shoot assertive stares at one another. Often the alpha can stop unwanted behavior in the pack simply with a stern growl and piercing stare. The combination says, "Stop what you're doing . . . NOW!" It hardly comes as a surprise that what works so well for a wolf also works well for you. Ordinarily your eye contact communicates friendliness, trust, and love; the occasional piercing stare may well stop unwanted behavior dead in its tracks, even when your dog is not on leash, as does a sharp "no" or "nah." Circumstances govern the intensity and depth of tone you use, but the dog who recognizes your position of authority respects such corrections.
Any time your dog is on leash, a verbal correction should usually accompany a leash correction. Although some trainers recommend eliminating "no" from your vocabulary because it is so easy to overuse, we prefer to be more flexible. "No" or "nah" is a perfectly appropriate accompaniment to a leash correction, especially when followed up immediately with more positive direction and encouragement. Done right, this combination can serve to enhance and direct your dog's spirit and desire to work. Further, because "no" is entirely natural to us, the timing of the correction tends to be more precise: you don't have to think about it. And then there is a final point: though it is clearly different from training a dog, still, would you ever think of raising a child without the word no?
The leash correction, or "pop," is meant to refocus the dog when he is not paying attention. It is a correction used to communicate, not to injure, given to correct the dog's understanding of how he should be behaving at that particular moment. It is attention-getting and surprising, and is executed by giving the leash a quick pop and release, a gesture reminiscent of the motion used to snap a towel at someone at the local pool. The dog should find it mildly unpleasant, but it is not meant to be painful as much as surprising, to focus the dog's distracted attention back on you so that you can remind him what you are asking.
Besides the discipline that takes place in the context of basic obedience training, there may be occasions when more physical techniques are necessary to resolve specific behavioral problems. Our experience has shown that the following situations may merit both physical and verbal discipline:
Aggression with humans — defined as excessive barking, growling, charging, chasing, nipping, or biting a human
House soiling — defecation or urination in the house or in any other improper place
Stealing — theft of food or objects
Persistent destructive behavior — destructive chewing, digging, or house wrecking not the result of puppy antics or accidents
Aggression with other dogs — in-species fighting, usually between two males, but possibly between a male and a female or two females
To repeat, these situations may merit physical discipline. Since no book can pretend to analyze every individual situation, we feel obligated to repeat from the outset that physical discipline or correction is never an arbitrary training technique to be applied to each and every dog for all offenses. We do, however, believe that physical and verbal discipline can be an effective technique when used in conjunction with a broader program of obedience training. The safest policy if you experience serious manifestations of any of the above problems, or if you suspect your dog has serious behavioral problems, is to consult a qualified trainer or veterinarian to evaluate your individual situation (see chapter 8, "Where to Find Training").
If you decide upon discipline as a training technique, it should be the proper kind of discipline. No trainer can provide you with exact, surefire prescriptions for what correction to use and the amount of force needed. That has to be a personal judgment on your part based on knowledge and intuition. We can, however, provide guidelines. The following is our attempt, as responsible trainers, to map out several methods we have found both helpful and humane, methods that depend less on violent physical force than on timing, a flair for the dramatic, and the element of surprise. In considering their use, you should follow the rule of always using the least amount of force necessary to change the behavior. Don't go overboard. Build on your corrections, making them progressively tougher until your dog responds
The wrong way to discipline a dog. Never use an object. Never discipline from above or behind.
appropriately. Above all, watch your dog: his response will tell you whether the correction is too soft or too stern. Once you've obtained a consistent type of response, stick to that level.
As a prelude, keep in mind several general principles: never use your dog's name during a correction, never call a dog to you to discipline her, and never use an object of any kind to discipline your dog. Using your dog's name not only alters the timing of the correction but is apt to communicate something too personal, as if the dog herself, rather than her behavior, is what is objectionable. Calling a dog to you and then disciplining her compromises not only the recall but the relationship as well. The dog who associates coming with discipline not only won't come but will prefer not to be with you. As for using objects, many owners still rely on them when disciplining their dogs. The overwhelming choice seems to be the rolled-up newspaper. The hand that feeds is the hand that teaches and corrects. Do not use objects of any kind to discipline your dog. Just use your hand as described below. Finally, we repeat: physical discipline should be reserved for the heinous canine crimes mentioned earlier, not meted out for every episode of bad behavior. Verbal correction might suffice for many dogs, but you should know more than one method of discipline before the unfortunate necessity of using one arises.
The Shakedown
One way to discipline your dog (and the first physical gesture to try) is the shakedown. It is particularly effective when you have been raising and training your dog (or pup) according to the principles of this book and suddenly are faced with a blatant case of testing or insubordination, such as snapping in a bratty way. The shakedown is a moderate physical correction that asserts your leadership and startles your dog into paying attention. The manner in which it is carried out depends on whether you are using it on a pup (grabbing the back of the neck, as his mother would) or older dog (grabbing both sides of neck fur).
In the shakedown the dog is sitting, anchored in place with tension on the training collar. When you have seated the dog and are sure he will not move, wheel around in front of him and kneel down. Grasp both sides of the dog's neck with both of your hands and lift him right off his front feet into the air. You may need to lean into the dog to do so. (When grasping a dog by his jowls, make sure that you have one or both of your thumbs looped under the training collar, to stop the dog
The shakedown. Grasp both sides of the dog's neck fur as pictured and raise the dog's front slightly. Make eye contact and give a quick shake as you scold.
from breaking away.) Holding the scruff firmly, look directly into the dog's face and shake the dog back and forth in quick, firm motions, gradually lowering the dog. Eye contact is essential. Scold the dog while you look at him, and keep him elevated a good five to ten seconds. It may be difficult to raise some larger breeds, in which case you have to sacrifice this part of the procedure. Most dogs, however, can be lifted up off their front feet with a little effort. Ideally, follow up immediately with a series of obedience commands to get the dog's mind back on your leadership. You want the dog to think, "Whoa, I definitely don't want to repeat that!"
After being disciplined in this fashion, the dog may be shaken up mentally and physically. Depending on the circumstances, you may wish to place him in an extended down-stay or simply heel without a lot of interaction. Keep your mood serious and businesslike until you have a chance to make up.
For young puppies, cut down on the intensity and duration of your co
rrection. A young pup should be disciplined by simply grabbing the scruff of the neck with one hand and giving him one good shake. As we have pointed out, this method approximates the technique a mother uses to keep order in the litter, to stop fighting between litter members, or to help wean her pups away from her to solid food. Disciplinary methods that reflect instinctual canine behavior communicate displeasure in ways a dog can understand. Such corrections as throwing or hitting the dog with objects, spanking him with newspapers, or simple pleading serve only human, not canine, ends and do not communicate displeasure effectively to the dog.
The Verbal Element in Discipline
Some dog owners find it difficult to say anything when disciplining their dogs, intent as they are on the physical manipulation required. Verbal scolding that accompanies the correction is essential. It requires a flair for the dramatic and good timing. The standard vocabulary for canine misbehavior is a growl-like "no, no," "shame, shame," and perhaps "bad dog!" Most of us have a whole speech prepared inside, ready to spill out, whenever we come upon or witness the results of our dog's misbehavior. We refrain from saying anything more than these pat phrases. Why?
One client put it this way: "Loddie does something wrong, and I know exactly what I want to say. I even know the tone of voice I want to use. But something tightens up inside of me." Another client said, "If I yell at the dog, the children think I am hurting her." Another dog owner reflected, "I've always been taught control over my temper. If you get mad, control it. Keep it all in. Although I am having tremendous problems with this dog, I can't see myself disciplining him physically or verbally. I just can't stand the feelings I get inside myself when I get angry."
The first thing we try to explain is that discipline need not be a terrible ordeal and that anger need not be a part of it. Dog discipline, if approached correctly and with a sense of humor, is more playacting than anything else, although the dog must not know it. On the other hand, the element of force is involved. In discipline, the owner puts the dog in a subordinate position and plays the alpha wolf in much the same way the leader of a wolf pack does. By keeping the vocabulary simple and natural, owners communicate more decisively and authoritatively. We encourage drama, timing, and surprise by having clients role-play situations when they might need to discipline their dogs. If an owner can successfully role-play discovering their dog peeing on the Oriental ten minutes before a dinner party, having a fight break out between his or her dog and the neighborhood rival, or any number of other catastrophic canine capers, then the actual occurrence of such events can be approached more naturally. So if you feel ill at ease with discipline, verbalize it ahead of time and role-play.
The tone of your voice is important and should be very sharp, intense, and commanding. Dogs are not deaf, so you need not yell or scream. Some dog owners are naturally verbally dominant, some are not, but a happy medium can be approached by all. Learn to say no, not in a whining, pleading tone, but as if you were throwing a verbal beanbag at the dog. If need be, go to a quiet place where you can be alone and practice belting out "no!"
Physical Discipline Under the Chin
A second method of disciplining the dog, usually reserved for more serious offenses, is the cuff under her chin. This method is for older dogs and presumes a good relationship between owner and dog, in which leadership has been established. Upon the infraction the dog
One way of disciplining an unruly dog is to sit the dog down and use an upward stroke under the chin.
should be anchored in the sitting position. Your fingers meet the underside of the dog's mouth in an upward motion. It is essential first to sit the dog, by pulling up on the training collar or pushing down on the animal's rear end. This also rivets the dog's attention upward toward the owner's eyes, so that eye contact can be made. Eye contact is very important in discipline. Wolves disciplining each other make eye contact. Never hit a dog from above. Your fingers should be closed together, your hand open.
How hard do you hit the dog? A good general rule is that if you did not get a response, a yelp or other sign, after the first hit, it wasn't hard enough. One good correction will put an end to it. We have found this punishment particularly effective with various forms of aggressive behavior, such as when your dog growls at a stranger. The discipline is quick and decisive. A sharp smack under the chin followed by a quick string of obedience commands lets him know just how displeased you are with this behavior.
Keep one hand tightly on the training collar so that the dog remains sitting. Insert your index finger into the leash ring of the training collar, and wrap your fingers around the extension you will have when it is pulled snugly. Keep this tension as you discipline the dog with your other hand. Keep the dog sitting while you discipline and then quickly move into a series of obedience commands that reinforce your leadership.
To ensure that serious problems do not get out of hand, stage set-up situations later on in which the dog has the opportunity to overcome the specific problem. Having established a serious consequence for the inappropriate behavior (for example, growling at your guest), you will be in a position to positively reinforce acceptable responses through praise or treats.
The Alpha-Wolf Rollover
In the original edition of this book, we recommended a technique we termed "the alpha-wolf rollover," to be used in conjunction with one of the disciplinary procedures already described. This disciplinary technique was nicknamed for the type of discipline the lead wolf dishes out to misbehaving members of the pack and involves following up an initial correction (shakedown or under the chin) with a down, then grabbing the scruff of the neck and sharply rolling the dog on her side and scolding her. The aim was to elicit a submissive response on the part of the dog that acknowledged your alpha status. This was a move we had seen have a powerful effect in certain extreme situations.
We no longer recommend this technique and strongly discourage its use to our clients. Though it can be argued that it has a natural basis in pack life, in a dog-human context it is potentially very dangerous and can set up the owner for a serious bite in the face (or worse), particularly with a dominant dog. The conditions in which it might be used effectively are simply too risky and demanding for the average dog owner; there are other ways of dealing with problem behavior that are much safer and, in the long run, just as effective.
Let us repeat: the disciplinary techniques explained in this section should not be applied haphazardly and for a slight misbehavior. There is always the chance that autocratic dog owners, having learned discipline techniques, will misuse them. Watch yourself — owners who are physically or verbally domineering wind up with cringing, neurotic dogs. Discipline, like praise, must be meaningful. It must communicate the owner's displeasure clearly, and on the dog's level of understanding and perception, for unacceptable behavior.
Dogs Are Not Children
One woman came to us with a Pekingese with persistent chewing problems. She approached all dog problems as she would child problems. She quoted specialists who take the permissive approach to child raising. Some information on the dog's quite different background helped her see the differences between her Pekingese and a child. Obviously, there are some analogies between a dog and a child that can be drawn, but discipline is not one of them. Puppies in litters often discipline one another, jostling, shoving, and pinning down one another. The mother of a litter disciplines her puppies with gentle bites. Keep in mind that dogs mature much faster than humans, and their receptivity to discipline is in a different sphere from ours. Don't be afraid to discipline your dog, but do so correctly and on a level that allows the dog to understand the connection.
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Discipline Do's and Don't's
Go get the dog. Never call a dog to you and then discipline him. Even if a chase is involved, go get the dog.
Never use an object to discipline or punish.
Never use the dog's name in conjunction with discipline.
Discipline in proportion to the o
ffense. Verbal discipline and leash corrections cover lesser offenses, while the shakedown and cuff under the chin are usually reserved for more serious, non-training-related offenses.
For the shakedown and cuff under the chin, first sit the dog. With the cuff under the chin, put tension on the training collar by inserting your index finger in one ring, and pulling it snug. If the dog doesn't sit, press down on her rear. Don't begin disciplining until the dog is sitting and anchored. Otherwise, the dog can more easily scoot away from you and avoid the correction.
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 8