This problem is common to many owners; it was allowed to develop because the owner didn't get Curly accustomed to being groomed as a young puppy. It is much easier to control a lively, 35-pound puppy than a reluctant 150-pound Newfoundland. The fact is, this principle applies to any breed. Regular grooming and the process of conditioning a puppy to enjoying it is an absolutely necessary part of caring for a dog, because grooming is critical to the overall health of a dog. It is not simply a cosmetic practice. Dogs whose nails are not regularly clipped can develop one or more of a host of problems, from nails growing back into the skin and difficulty in walking, to back problems in certain long-backed breeds. Dogs' ears that are not cleaned once a week can easily develop a buildup of wax, bacteria, and fungi, as well as full-blown ear infections. Dogs who are not brushed frequently usually begin to retain dead hair and often smell unpleasant; easily harbor fleas, ticks, and mites; and may be more susceptible to skin problems in general. Tear ducts that are not wiped regularly become encrusted with dried mucus (more commonly known as "gunk"), which usually leads to conjunctivitis. Dogs simply cannot take care of these things themselves: they need your regular attention. And just as with canine massage, regular grooming strengthens the bond between you and your dog while helping you keep track of what is going on with your dog's physical condition. As both you and your dog learn to relax and enjoy the process, you become more sensitive to subtle changes in your dog's condition, being better able to spot abnormalities such as tumors, skin or hair problems, and cuts or bruises. Given the expense of dealing with such conditions once they become full-blown, this simply makes good sense.
Grooming Puppies
We start grooming our puppies regularly from very early on. For example, as soon as the second week it is important to trim puppy nails to make it easier for the mother to let her pups nurse. Generally at the same time we also go over the pup's body lightly with a slicker brush, just to start sensitizing her to this procedure. As the pups grow, we expand the session to include ear cleaning and opening the mouth (to examine teeth and palate). This is a part of responsible breeding that, aside from the health benefits, socializes and conditions the pup to new experiences. Had Curly been groomed regularly from an early age, his owner would not have had the problems with him as an adult and would have been in a much better position to enjoy his company.
If you purchase a pup from a breeder, ask how regularly the pup was groomed and inquire about any specific recommendations the breeder may have about grooming your particular breed. A longhaired, high-maintenance breed such as an Afghan, Old English sheep-dog, briard, or a shih tzu requires daily attention to prevent matting, and you'll need several different and specific types of combs and brushes to keep the pup looking her best. Shorthaired breeds such as Doberman pinschers, vizslas, and many of the hounds usually require a weekly brushing with a soft bristle brush, while double-coated breeds such as German shepherds and huskies are notorious shedders who should be groomed at least twice a week with a slicker brush and shedding blade. At the height of the spring and fall shedding seasons, it is probably even necessary to groom daily. Ask your breeder: a good breeder is aware of the best way of dealing with your pup's grooming needs. If you have obtained a dog from a shelter, or an older dog from a nonbreeder, consider making an appointment with a professional groomer to show you the best way to care for your dog. This is particularly pertinent for owners of long-coated breeds.
Establishing a Routine
We find that a regular grooming session establishes a pattern that your pup will come to enjoy and look forward to, which will carry over into adulthood. Begin with very brief sessions that are highly positive, fun, and relaxing. Talk quietly to your pup as you groom her. Follow up the grooming with a play session or a nice treat. Some owners may find no difficulty in grooming their pup on the floor; others may find bending over uncomfortable. If so, you may want to groom the dog on a nonskid surface such as a professional grooming table, a picnic table, or even a washing machine or dryer with a rubber mat over it. Think of safety: you don't want your pup falling from any kind of height. Keep a hand on your pup at all times and brush her lightly according to the needs of her particular breed. Be sure to brush all the way down to the skin. This removes dead hair and dirt and spreads the skin's natural oils throughout the coat and stimulates blood circulation under the skin. At the same time, check for fleas, ticks, scratches, and bumps.
A good way to determine whether your dog has fleas, aside from observing your dog scratching himself repeatedly (as well as flea bites on yourself!), is to run the comb over his coat with a white towel underneath. If dark flea residue shows up on the towel, treat your dog for fleas, even if you don't find any on his body. Though some people swear by natural methods of controlling fleas such as brewer's yeast and cedar shampoo, a more drastic approach is called for at certain times and places. We haven't had much luck with flea collars or powders, which don't seem to be effective at all. Systemic products such as Advantage and Frontline have been much more helpful in recent years. However, if you're suffering from a serious outbreak of fleas, we recommend combining one of these products with treating your dog's environment comprehensively. The life cycle of fleas from egg to larvae to adult is between three to six weeks, so to deal with the problem, you have to break the cycle. Adult fleas lay their eggs on your dog, and then the eggs fall off onto carpeting, upholstered furniture — wherever your dog rests. If you fail to treat (and re-treat) the environment, you're likely to miss more than 90 percent of the developing flea population, and you'll have problems again soon. If you really want to rid your home of the little pests, vacuum your house thoroughly every week, especially those areas where your dog rests as well as the edges of rooms and underneath furniture. Also wash or dry-clean all pet bedding weekly. If it should be necessary to use insecticides to control an infested house, check with your veterinarian to make sure that there is no conflict between products used in the environment and those used on the dog or systemically.
Ticks are another parasite you must check for regularly, particularly if you take walks with your pooch through wooded or grassy areas. Should you find a tick on your dog, use a tick remover to pull it out. This device grasps the tick at its head and, when twisted, removes the tick completely. Deposit the tick in a jar of rubbing alcohol. It is important to pull out the whole tick, body and head, since getting just the body leaves a higher risk of disease and infection. Deer ticks, which are very small, carry Lyme disease, which causes lameness and intense joint discomfort for humans and dogs. If it seems like a deer tick, save it in alcohol and have your veterinarian check it for Lyme disease.
After you've groomed the dog's entire coat (including her legs, feet, and tail), next check the ears and eyes. Gently massage her ears and then inspect them for dirt, scratches, redness, and parasites. Be alert to any sort of foul odor coming from the ears, which could signal an ear infection. To avoid digging down into the ear canal (which can be harmful to the dog), we spray an ear-cleansing solution into the ear (a fifty-fifty solution of apple cider vinegar and warm water works as well), let the dog shake, and then daub the area with a cotton ball. Never probe farther into the ear than you can see. Cleaning should be done weekly. Next, check the eyes for redness or other signs of irritation. The eyes should be clear and the eyeball white. Wipe away any mucus discharge from the corners with a cotton ball moistened with warm water, and praise your dog as he allows you to do this. Make sure not to wipe the cotton ball over the eye itself, which can irritate it.
An important part of a grooming routine is checking your dog's mouth. Inevitably, at some point in his life, your dog will need to be given medicine orally. Doing so is much easier when the dog is accustomed to having his mouth opened. Enfold his muzzle with both of your hands, one on top and one underneath, and open his mouth gently, taking a quick peek at his teeth. Be very appreciative and full of praise as he allows this. Though it may seem excessive to some, many veterinarians are also now
recommending regular teeth-brushing sessions to keep plaque under control and preserve good dental hygiene. It also controls "dog breath." Should you choose to brush your dog's teeth, break your pup in very slowly and use a toothpaste intended for dogs. Special brushes or small pads are available to make it easier for you, and more effective.
Last, but definitely not least, is trimming your dog's nails. Believe it or not, this doesn't have to be a perpetual battle of wills. If you handle your pup's paws and toes briefly every day, right from the start, he will become quite relaxed about having his feet handled, especially when you combine it with something he finds enjoyable (such as a belly rub). The secret is being consistent from the start. Since puppy nails grow quickly, it pays to clip just the very tips, but do so often. Use a nail clipper specifically designed for dogs, and be sure to trim just the tips. This avoids cutting into the quick, which is painful to your dog and causes bleeding. If you are dealing with an older dog, you can desensitize him to nail clipping much more gradually. Sit on the floor with him and gently take his paw in your hand and lightly massage the toes. When he allows you to do this without pulling his paw back, praise him warmly and give him a treat. Practice this for several consecutive days. Next, begin applying light pressure to a nail by tapping it lightly with your index finger. As the dog allows you to do this, give him a treat. Be prepared to go slow — there's no rush in view of the long-term goal. Once your dog is comfortable having his nails touched, show him the nail clipper, letting him sniff it if he is inquisitive. Gently hold his front paw with your free hand and clip only the very tip of one nail. Praise him warmly and give him a treat. If your dog seems comfortable, trim the remaining nails on the paw in the same way, rewarding him after each clip. Conclude the session once the initial foot is finished. Do the remaining paws over the next several days in a similar fashion. Usually this approach can condition a dog to the nail-trimming procedure in a short while, then all of the nails can be done in one session. The key is to remember always to praise and treat, and to take off just the tips. This prevents painful bleeders that cause dogs to react negatively to nail clipping. (Powdered alum, liquid stiptic, or a stiptic pencil are available at pet stores in the event you accidentally cause a bleeder.)
The Older Dog
Over the years in our work with dogs, there have been times when we've imported an adult dog from Germany for our breeding program. Usually it has been a very easy process of adaptation into our program, but occasionally we've discovered that the dog we've imported has not been trained/conditioned properly to regular grooming. Initially, she may be uncomfortable being touched and handled. The same may often be the case when someone obtains an older dog. We can apply the same principles to condition an older dog to the grooming process that we do for conditioning an older dog to nail clipping.
We first try to determine the level of sensitivity to touch. With many dogs the problem isn't so much being touched at all as it is being touched in particular areas, such as the paws, sides, rump, or ears. With the dog on leash, start by petting him down the back of the neck, then gradually test other areas of his body. Once you determine those areas that the dog does not mind being touched, focus your attention there. As the dog relaxes, gradually graze the area he is sensitive about, going back immediately to the area of comfort. Praise and treat. Keep these initial sessions brief. It is better to have a short session five consecutive days than one long one. Always remember to praise warmly after a brief brush in the area of discomfort. As the dog signals acceptance of your touch, extend the number of touches. Assuming that you proceed with patience and sensitivity, the dog should become accustomed to being touched in sensitive areas fairly quickly. This will then allow you to begin formal grooming.
However, first make sure that your dog is free of significant mats and tangles. There is no question that a major reason older dogs dislike grooming is that their initial experiences with it have involved pain. If your dog is seriously matted, have her professionally groomed first, then work on getting her used to grooming gradually. Begin with light brushing in small sections (opposite direction first), taking frequent breaks and providing plenty of praise and a treat. Do not be concerned with grooming the entire dog in one session. Dogs can get very fidgety and then become hard to control. Better to do it over the course of a couple of days and preserve a pleasant attitude. If at any time your dog begins to put her mouth on your hand, give her a quick pop on the leash and say sharply, "Ahn!" Then go back to brushing, praising her warmly as she permits this. If your dog is a struggler, get a family member or friend to gently assist you for the first sessions, and keep them very short. Once your dog has been through a series of successful brushings, you can try to extend the length of the session (as well as groom solo).
What About Baths?
Years ago, when shampoos were harsh and robbed the dog's skin of vital oils, dog professionals believed that dogs should be bathed minimally, only when dirt and filth made it absolutely necessary. Now, with milder shampoos that keep the pH level of the skin balanced, dogs can be bathed as often as once a week without drying out their coats. Generally paying attention to how your dog smells may very well determine bath frequency. If there is a "doggy" smell, time for a bath!
It helps a lot if you brush your dog thoroughly before the bath, to remove dead hair and mats. Doing so prevents a mess of tangles as you wet the dog. Some people use either a bathtub or walk-in shower (where it may be easier to keep the dog confined); others bathe their dogs outside. You need shampoo, towels, cotton balls (to put in the ears so water won't flow into them) — all within easy reach from wherever you intend to bathe the dog. If you have a movable shower attachment, use it to bathe the dog. First wet down the dog's entire body with lukewarm water from the neck down, keeping one hand on his collar to keep him from bolting. Some soothing and encouraging words help keep things calm. Work the shampoo into his hair thoroughly, then rinse and repeat the process. Next, when you wash his head, make sure the cotton is inserted into his ears, and be careful not to get soap in your dog's eyes. By doing the head last, you help keep the dog from shaking the water out and keep yourself drier. Wet down the whole head and work a little bit of shampoo on the top of his head, behind the ears, and around the muzzle. Rinse gently but thoroughly. As we finish, we like to work as much of the residual soap and water out of the coat by running our hands through it, then hold the towel up along the side of the dog (so that it protects you) and let him shake several times. Towel the entire dog — head, coat, feet, and tail. Either use an electric hair dryer made for dogs or make sure you keep your dog in a warm place (in colder weather) until he is completely dry.
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The Inner Dimension of Training: In the Beginning Is the Relationship
Obedience trainers can be awfully demanding tutors (some are notoriously blunt about pointing out their clients' mistakes), yet they also delight in those occasions when they see their work with a client become inspiring. To observe the relationship between dog and owner blossom is one of the most satisfying things a trainer can experience. It makes all the routine work well worth it. One time a client brought her golden retriever for our three-week basic obedience-training course, even though she and her dog, Jessie, were not having any serious problems in their day-to-day relationship. The woman explained she felt the relationship could go much deeper, and she was willing to spend the time and effort necessary to achieve that goal.
We suggested several books and articles to help her explore further possibilities while her dog was with us being trained. We also assured her that we would delve into many of these points more thoroughly at the final interview. As it happened, when she came back for that final interview she was well prepared; she had done her homework and had thought clearly about how she wanted to improve the relationship. She was enthusiastic, not only about the technical routines and insights of the obedience course but also about our comments on the inner discipline required of owners if they are really going to mo
ve to the next level with their dogs. During the demonstration itself, she paid close attention to the monk working with Jessie, asked her boyfriend to videotape the session, and was obviously overjoyed when finally she was reunited with Jessie. After spending some time playing and simply being with Jessie and as she was preparing to go over the training along with the monk, she paused to make an observation. "You know, Brother, I've been studying ballet for a long time now, and the way you were working with Jessie reminded me of things I know intuitively from dance. It seemed as though you were working effortlessly, as a team. And her attitude! I was so relieved. My friends had warned me about training, but far from breaking her spirit, she's really come out of herself. With this foundation, I feel I've got something tangible to build on and a certain quality of relationship to shoot for."
Her comment was gratifying, and not simply because it was complimentary. Far more significant was that she had keyed in to a deeper dimension possible in her relationship with Jessie, one with clearly spiritual overtones, and was willing to work to develop it. Her image of ballet captured well the harmonious ideal of the canine-human interaction: disciplined yet graceful, balanced and always respectful. It was a real pleasure several months later to receive a card from her saying that although "not quite choreographed, our life together is so much richer! Thank you for your help."
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 10