This story is not typical of most dogs shown in the obedience ring, but it does point out a major pitfall in obedience-training exercises: don't make your dog into a robot! Obedience training does not turn a dog into a zombie, but a bad trainer does. Train with spirit, humor, a judicious use of treats, and, most of all, physical and verbal praise.
31
Equipment
What kind of equipment do you need to train your dog? First, you will need a quality leather or cotton webbed six-foot leash. Here at the monastery our preference is for leather leashes because they are durable and, once they are broken in, extremely comfortable to work with. However, there are trainers who prefer cotton webbed leashes, believing that they have less give, thus making them capable of eliciting a quicker response from the dog. Avoid nylon leashes, which remain stiff and can burn your hands if your dog lurches unexpectedly, as well as metal leashes, which are entirely unsuitable for training. However, you may wish to have on hand a twenty-six-foot "flexi-lead," or
A good lead has no sewn parts that can break. Braided leather or webbed construction works well, with a heavy-duty clip. Shown is a short lead, a six-foot-leash, and a retractable leash (helpful outside of training sessions for informal walks).
We prefer a braided nylon training collar. The Volhard collar has a floating ring and clip — particularly useful for a precise fit. The prong collar looks worse than it feels and is helpful for large, unruly dogs.
retractable leash. Although you won't use this for formal training, such devices are handy for informal walks with your dog.
The width of the training leash depends on the size of the dog you are working with. Extremely large, oversize dogs can use a three-quarter-inch-wide leash. For the average to larger-size dog, we recommend a leash that is half an inch wide. For smaller dogs such as the toy breeds and some of the terriers, use a leash that is a quarter inch wide.
In addition to a flat-buckle collar for dog tags, you need an appropriate training collar, of which there are several possibilities. Most people are familiar with steel or nylon slip-on collars, which are made from a piece of metal chain or flexible, braided nylon attached to two rings. Readily available at most pet stores or through pet-supply catalogs, they slide easily over a dog's head but often have the disadvantage of being too large for the precise size of the dog's neck. Ultimately, this can minimize the effectiveness of a leash pop. In addition, recent research has shown that metal training collars can also cause damage to the dog's trachea if used incorrectly. However, if you do use a steel collar, make sure the links are small, pounded flat and not rounded, so that the collar has good, clean action when pulled and does not get hung up, hindering a smooth release.
A better option for most dogs of normal touch sensitivity is a nylon snap-around collar, which has been popularized by Jack and Wendy Volhard. A snap-around collar consists of a piece of nylon with a clasp on one end and a ring on the other, with a loose, or floating, ring sliding between them. Though not as easy to find as slip collars, they have the advantage of being able to fit precisely to the exact size of the dog's neck and can be used as a safe flat collar when the dog is not being trained. We list where they may be obtained in the back of this book. Keep in mind, however, that certain longhaired breeds do not do well with any sort of nylon collar (the hair tangles in them) and need a metal slip-on collar to allow the collar to pass through the coat smoothly.
A third possibility is to use a prong (sometimes called a pinch) collar. These collars look somewhat medieval and can inspire skepticism in a sensitive owner who doesn't wish to harm her dog, but we have found them to be safe and humane when used correctly, particularly for touch-insensitive dogs. The individual prongs come apart so that a
When using the special Volhard collar, attach the clip from under the neck to the floating ring, then connect the leash to the end ring.
precise fit can be achieved — snug — right under the ears. In fact, many dog professionals and even chiropractors believe them to be the safest training collar, and there is no question of their effectiveness. The principal drawbacks to using a prong collar are that it is more difficult to put on than a slip collar and that it cannot be left on when not in use. Prong collars come in three different link sizes: small, medium, and large. We use small and medium collars for all dogs; the large collars are bulky and less efficient.
A final point about two other collar options: recently head halter (Halti) collars have become popular with some trainers. These fit over the dog's head and muzzle and are intended to guide the dog by controlling the movement of his head. They work on the assumption that the dog's body follows the position of the head; however, we have found that most dogs object to them vigorously, especially in the early stages of training. Further, they control the dog without really teaching the dog to assume responsibility for his behavior and can potentially damage a dog's neck if the dog or handler pulls suddenly. Finally, we do not find electronic collars suitable for basic obedience training. We prefer them for more advanced training that is done off leash; they require a good bit of skill, experience, and commitment to use effectively.
Whatever training collar you use, make sure it fits the dog properly! The most common error clients make in "outfitting" their dogs for training is to purchase a training collar that is many times too large. Not only is this dangerous, the more oversize your training collar, the longer it takes for your correctional tug to be telegraphed to your dog when you use the training leash for a correction. You owe it to the dog to make your corrections instantaneous, and you can't do so with oversize equipment. Measure your dog's neck beforehand. Slip-on collars are usually sold in even-inch models, so select one that allows three or four inches of slack when it is pulled tight on the dog. This means that the training collar will be snug going over the dog's ears when you put it on. Both prong and snap-around collars should fit precisely the size of your dog's neck directly under the ears; with the snap-around collar, you should be able to slip two fingers between the neck and collar on a larger dog (one finger for smaller ones) when he is relaxed.
There is definitely a right way to put each of these training collars on. For a slip collar, stand to your dog's right, facing forward. Hold
The correct way to put on an ordinary nylon training collar. Notice that the collar falls into the letter p.
the collar out in front of your dog so that the looped portion falls naturally into the letter p. Slide the collar over the dog's head, making sure that when you pull the collar, it loosens up when you release the ring. If you have the collar upside down, it will not release. For the snap-around collar, begin by facing your dog with the clip in your left hand and the remaining two rings in your right hand. Place the collar underneath the neck and bring the ends up to the top of the neck. Attach the clip to the movable ring.
We feel strongly that a dog should wear a training collar whenever safety considerations do not prevent it. Owners should be aware that whenever a dog is wearing a training collar, there is the remote possibility that it could get caught on something (for example, a branch or a sharp piece of metal from a cyclone fence) and accidentally choke the dog to death. Hence, we would not recommend leaving the collar on while you are at work or when the dog cannot be monitored. At the same time, we've found that the advantages of wearing the collar when you are around are significant. Once the training collar is on, it can serve as a "mini-leash" when the handler simply inserts a finger in the active ring.
You can adapt a reinforced cotton rope for recall work. Securely attach a heavy-duty clip to one end. When training with the long rope, wear gloves to protect your hands from rope burn.
You also need a long cotton webbed leash (twenty feet) for teaching controlled walking and a long rope (thirty to fifty feet) for work in teaching the recall. You can easily make one yourself by taking a length of clothesline and tying a clip to the end of it, which can then be attached to your six-foot training lead. If your dog has a tendency to take off when
you call her, wear gloves to prevent your hands from being burned when the rope is pulled through fast. Stay away from twine or string. It can break or cut your hands if the dog pulls away quickly.
Lastly, if you are using treats, we suggest either small cut-up pieces of hot dog that you prepare yourself or, if you are looking for a commercial product, freeze-dried liver treats. Dogs love them, and in addition to your not having to worry about them spoiling, they are not greasy or messy. It is helpful to have something akin to a carpenter's apron to hold the treats while you are working with your dog.
If you want to find quality dog-training equipment, call an obedience instructor or an obedience school, or consult the references for dog equipment at the end of this book. Don't rely on items purchased in supermarkets to last. As the pet market continues to boom, there is plenty of poor-quality pet equipment available. Remember, a training collar that breaks in the middle of a training session can cost you valuable training time. A defective leash that snaps when your dog bolts at a cat on a busy city street can possibly cost the dog his life. Get good, top-quality equipment.
32
Heeling
The object of the heel and the automatic sit is to train your dog to walk on your left side without pulling ahead or lagging behind — and to glide into a sit when you stop. We teach this exercise in stages, first making sure your dog (let's call her Una) is able to walk on leash, then teaching her not to pull, and then, finally, moving into a formal heel accompanied by an automatic sit when you come to a stop. Heeling is a practical, useful skill. It is not an ornamental part of dog training, reserved for professional trainers. When Una walks at your side (and at your pace), she implicitly recognizes you as alpha. Since walking your dog is an essential aspect of your life with her from the day you adopt her, heel (broadly understood here as controlled walking and a formal heel) is the first lesson we cover. In many ways how you teach this exercise may be instrumental in changing the way you and your dog relate to each other, particularly if you have not covered the preliminary leash work described in the section on puppy training. This exercise is vital in reordering faulty dog-owner relationships in which the animal perceives himself as the leader and, as a reflection of that perception, takes the owner for a walk every day. If your dog fits this description, and if your arms are continually being popped out of their sockets by a lunging beast, you will appreciate the necessity of this exercise.
Trainers disagree on how the heel should be taught. We try to view this exercise incrementally as part of the overall relationship between dog and owner, and not in punitive terms. Leadership is the issue, so a certain amount of firmness is in order. For preliminary walking on leash and teaching an untrained dog not to pull, we begin with a
Begin leash training with an older dog by walking in a square pattern with a twenty-foot leash.
Briskly set out walking on the first leg of the square, giving the leash a quick pop if needed and not saying anything.
Keep moving in a square pattern, and the dog has to follow. Pause a few moments at each corner before you turn.
Finally the dog gets the message and tries to catch up with you.
"square pattern" in which there is no eye contact and limited praise, with the handler moving steadily along the outline of a square (each side about sixty feet in length), pausing for a couple of minutes at each corner. We discuss this procedure in detail below. Once the dog is ready, we move on to the next levels of controlled walking and formal heel, in which we give plenty of encouragement and use treats judiciously. If we progress patiently and methodically, much of the harshness characteristic of certain approaches to heel can be avoided, making for a much smoother learning process. In this spirit, a word of advice: always remember to keep your attitude positive. Determine from the beginning that you are going to learn to work as a team with your dog and that you will eventually be able to walk smoothly together. Don't go into the exercise saying, "My dog can't heel." In our experience, we have never met a dog who cannot heel.
When first starting out, select an area that has good footing and is large enough to permit walking in any direction. Wear shoes that are comfortable and have good support and traction. (Don't try to train your dog to heel when you are wearing sandals and walking on grass!) The area should be quiet — although distractions are important in later training, preliminary sessions are no time for them; make sure there will be no interruptions.
To teach Una to pay attention to you and not to pull on the leash, begin by using a twenty-foot cotton webbed leash, clipping it to the live ring of a correctly fitted training collar. Put your right thumb through the loop and clench your right hand over the leash. Place your left hand next to the right as you clasp the leash, hands firmly planted against your belt buckle. At this point, don't worry about Una sitting or paying attention. Look out and imagine a square, sixty feet to a side. After saying, "Una, let's go," simply begin moving briskly in a straight line down one side of your imaginary square. Don't say anything more and look straight ahead, avoiding eye contact and letting the long leash drag along the ground.
There are any number of moves Una could attempt when you begin this, and with some dogs literally anything is possible. Since so many have not been properly leash-trained as pups and have never been restrained in any way early in life, many have an initial abhorrence of a leash. To some dogs, it is a tether that is meant to be chewed and broken; to others, it is a signal to run to a corner, curl up, and die. Other dogs might respond by attempting to melt into the ground or by scaling the handler's back and sides or by going into the "mule act" of refusing to move. However, usually the reaction is not so extreme. What most likely will happen is that Una will receive a sharp tug and begin following after you. At the tug, praise her briefly with "that's my girl!" She may run beyond you, around you, behind you. . . . No problem. Simply keep walking and stop after sixty feet; turn and face to the right. Una will likely be off to the side, waiting. Ignore her, and wait several minutes. Then begin again. Repeat this sequence as you go around the square. What you will soon notice is that Una begins to start walking along with you and that the slackened leash will be dragging along the ground. After fifteen or twenty minutes, she will seem focused and calm. You can treat and praise her at the very end of the session. When you repeat this exercise over several days (cutting down steadily on the length of time you pause at each corner), Una will be conditioned to walk along with you without fighting the leash, and you will be in a position to move on to the next stage of controlled walking.
For this, begin working with your six-foot leash. To hold the leash correctly, put your right thumb through the loop of the leash so that the leash lies across the open palm of your right hand. Make a fist with your right hand and lift the first two fingers so that they can grasp the leash a quarter of the way down. Rest your right hand on your right thigh. Grasp the other end of the leash with your left hand about two-thirds of the way down, knuckles forward. Rest your left hand on your left thigh, with Una to your left. This is your starting position.
Begin by saying, "Una, let's go," and immediately move out, giving her warm encouragement. The object here is for Una to walk along with you with a slackened leash, but without the precision of a formal heel. Make sure her collar is high up on the neck when you begin. If she starts to forge off to the side or out in front, simply give a light leash correction (a quick leash pop with your left hand) as you say, "Nah, let's go," and move off, either to the right (a 90-degree turn) or in a full-about turn (a 180-degree turn). Slap your left thigh with your left hand as you turn, to help direct Una's attention, and praise her warmly. The first couple of times you pop the leash, you may elicit a slight yelp, but as she responds successfully walking alongside you, praise and reward her. Don't stop to wait for her if she stops. Keep walking.
With the dog on your left and making eye contact, you can begin the heel on leash. The dog's position does not have to be perfect in the beginning.
When wor
king with your dog on the heel, keep the leash loose, with your hands as illustrated in case you need to make a correction.
You will discover that changing directions is the most effective way to deal with inattention, with problems of forging and the like. By accompanying such change of direction with precise leash pops and varying your pace, you will get Una's undivided attention, and soon she'll be easy to walk informally, respecting the leash and needing only an occasional gentle reminder. If this is not the case, then we suggest using a prong collar to provide you with an added edge.
You can use this command ("let's go") when you want to allow Una the possibility of having a bit more freedom during a walk, so as to be able to sniff and investigate. You can expect to work at this level for about a week.
Walking in a controlled manner with a loose leash differs from heel in the manner of attention required of your dog. In controlled walking, as long as Una is not pulling, she is free to walk in a leisurely way, and not necessarily on the left-hand side. She can sniff, look around, interact with her environment. This is great for walks in the park or when she has to do her business. Once we move to heel, our expectations change. Now Una will be required to walk on your left side, paying strict attention to you while avoiding any tendency to forge, lag, crowd, or move off to the side. You will use the heel whenever you need strict control over Una, whether on a busy sidewalk or at a competitive obedience event. That said, let us repeat that the heel and sit introduced here are geared to companionship, not to achieving the level of precision demanded for competitive obedience. For most general dog owners, such precision would be a bit artificial.
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 22