When marking is an ingrained problem, neutering is in order. In addition, however, close monitoring is crucial. When at a friend's house, don't let Duke out of your sight and be ready to take him outside at the first sign of inclination. If you catch Duke in the act, correct him and take him immediately outside. Otherwise, keep him on a down-stay.
If you are experiencing more pronounced difficulties in housetraining a puppy or older dog, seek advice from a qualified trainer or behaviorist who will sit down with you and map out an approach for your dog. Avoid harsh physicality in disciplining house soiling; be alert, consistent, and think preventatively.
40
Chewing, Digging, and Jumping Up
Chewing
If breeders did a better job of preventing early chewing, their puppies probably would have fewer problems when they go to new homes. As with many canine troubles, the problem starts at an early age. Some breeders may not provide chew toys, instead allowing their puppies to chew on portions of the whelping box or kennel. All it takes to stop this kind of behavior is a loud "no!" and replacing the object being chewed with an acceptable one. When breeders provide hanging and toss toys for the litter, it helps puppies focus on appropriate objects to chew. In general, when the puppy goes to a new home, the owner should focus the pup on a few preferred toys only (Nylabone, rope toy, and Kong are good). Keep one particular toy in each location where the pup spends time (i.e., bedroom, living room, kitchen, crate). Don't go overboard: if the pup has too many things to chew on, the message he receives is that everything is chewable.
Puppies need to chew — chewing helps baby teeth to loosen, making room for the permanent teeth to emerge. Your job is to focus puppies' oral attention on appropriate things. New puppy owners should be aware of the teething period, which is especially pronounced between four and six months of age. A good do-it-yourself toy for teething pain is a frozen washcloth that has been twisted. The coldness helps numb the pain. When the washcloth thaws, simply wash it thoroughly, twist it again, and stick it back in the freezer to be used again. Troubles connected with puppy chewing are explained further in chapter 29, on puppy training.
Several commercial products are available to help puppies and older dogs stop chewing. They work on the premise that some dogs withdraw from unpleasant smells such as citronella, Tabasco, or even Listerine. A new repellent containing methyl nonyl ketone is effective. Grannick's Bitter Apple lotion is an old standby of experienced trainers and breeders. But don't count on sprays, ointments, or magic salves to relieve chewing problems. Though they may help to a degree, the best method of chewing control is early vigilance, a timely reprimand, and a refocusing of attention on an appropriate object or toy.
The length of time destructive behavior has been going on determines how quickly and easily it can be corrected. Chewing correction in older dogs is sometimes more difficult. Destructive chewing usually takes place when the owner is away. One of the staple descriptions we hear in our discussions with clients is the scene they meet upon returning home from work. We have heard horror stories of drapes pulled down, pillows torn open and the contents liberally strewn about, mattresses with their centers hollowed out, plate-glass windows smashed, and wall-to-wall carpeting ripped up. Once the canine mouth gets going, there is no limit to the destruction it can do. Perhaps the most amazing story we have heard concerned a two-year-old Newfoundland–Saint Bernard mix who knocked over the refrigerator, ate five squares of linoleum tile, and ripped the phone out of the wall. When the owners returned, the dog had the audacity to growl at them. Your particular tale of woe probably pales next to this one, so cheer up — something can be done!
We have found a common pattern in owners' reactions after these discoveries. First, they are surprised, even if the dog has done damage before. Next, they are angry and inaugurate a wild chase scene with the dog, sometimes ending with physical punishment but more often with the dog's escape. Even more common, they scold the dog as he cowers in a corner and the owners resign themselves to cleaning up the mess. Many owners explain the behavior by saying, "He hates me for leaving him alone," or a variation on that theme. They are partially right.
The fact is, however, that usually the dog does not have it in for the owner. He may experience frustration on other levels. The factors that produce chewing sometimes originate in the environment, not in the dog. Once these factors are understood, it is easier to solve the problem. The dog's chewing can then be focused on an appropriate object, and the destructive behavior stops.
First, the most sensible approach to destructive behavior is to be realistic. Don't even think of leaving your dog with free rein of the house when you are not present before he is a year old at the earliest. In the meantime, use a crate or other acceptable means of confinement, making sure that your dog gets out for exercise at midday if you cannot be home during the day. Hire someone if necessary. Regular and substantial exercise is a vital component of trustworthy behavior, as is regular practice in the obedience exercises.
Next, trust in the home is earned, never presumed. Once you decide to begin conditioning your dog to more freedom in the house, begin with short departures. A program should be set up whereby the owner leaves for only a few minutes the first day, building up gradually in ensuing sessions. Be sure to temper emotional homecomings or departures, even when they are brief. Greet and say good-bye to your dog quietly, affectionately, but not dramatically. The owner should instill a sense of responsibility in the dog by training him with the words "watch things" or "watch the house" when leaving, and giving gentle praise when arriving home. Each time the dog manages to stay alone for even a short length of time, it is a big victory and a stepping-stone to longer stays.
On the other hand, if on your arrival you catch your dog chewing something inappropriate, correct him, put him on a down-stay, and then focus his attention on an appropriate chew object. We know one owner who installed a reverse peephole in her front door so that after a mock departure, she could look into the living room and see what her Labrador retriever was up to. When the Lab started to get into mischief, the owner simply opened the door and was able to make a perfectly legitimate, well-timed correction. In no time the Lab was conditioned to be entirely trustworthy when alone. Finally, leaving the radio on is another strategy that sometimes helps distract the chewer and make him think his owner is going to return soon (see chapter 23).
Even though some people swear by it, physical discipline for chewing is not effective, unless the dog is corrected in the actual act of chewing. Suggestions of taking the dog to the scene of the crime, focusing her attention on the chewed object (either by picking up the chewed article or bringing the dog's eyes down or up to it), and disciplining the dog under the chin are misguided. Dogs do not register delayed cause and effect, and thus do not understand the meaning of the correction.
A more promising preventative approach blends sensible concrete measures (i.e., chew-proofing the house, using repellents, and set-up situations) with a more fundamental correction of faulty aspects in the dog-owner relationship. If your dog is chewing on something predictable, it is a good idea to attempt to make the object being chewed unpleasant in itself and avoid, if possible, connecting this discipline with the owner. One way to do so is to use repellents; another is to set mousetraps strategically in the chewing area. Don't worry, they won't get stuck on the dog's nose. They can accomplish two objectives: when you are gone, they can act as reminders to the dog to stay away from a given area; when you return home, you can gauge your progress simply by looking to see if the traps went off.
Remember to approach the problem positively, too. Provide the dog with a nylon or rawhide bone. Make this bone a special toy. Play fetch with it. Wiggle it on the ground in an inviting way and let the dog chase it. Keep this bone away from the dog for at least two hours prior to leaving home. Just as you leave, rub the bone between your palms for two minutes to leave your scent on it. Then offer it to the dog as you leave. Make sure the dog se
es you offering it. If the dog takes it from you, so much the better. Do not provide the dog with old leather shoes, socks, or personal items. Dogs are not able to tell the difference between old and new, what is permissible to chew and what isn't.
Avoid disciplining chewing on forbidden objects by other techniques, such as taping the chewed object in the dog's mouth (a good way to get bit), hitting the dog with the chewed object (the dog won't make the connection), or tying the chewed object around the dog's neck (the dog might chew on it again), all methods that have been used from time to time.
To correct chewing, first reorder the relationship between you and your dog by establishing yourself as the alpha figure. Obedience-train your dog. Provide effective discipline if you discover a chewing incident. Focus the dog on an acceptable chew toy. All other techniques, such as sprays, mousetraps, screamed or shrieked "nos," and prayers are simply adjuncts to this basic approach.
Digging
Dogs who are forced out into the backyard, often "for their own good" or "to get fresh air," soon resort to frustration-release activities, and digging is one of the most popular. Since digging is often related to social isolation, the most positive step an owner can take is to allow the animal into the house. Obedience training, diet regulation, and other changes are to no avail unless the dog is also included in the owner's life.
Interviews with owners of diggers often reveal that the dog lives in the backyard "because he drives everyone crazy when he's indoors." Sometimes the owners cannot even remember when their dogs were last allowed inside. In other cases, the dog is allowed inside only at night (when the owner is ready for bed) and excluded from all other activities. Obedience training, emphasizing the down and down-stay, is imperative if the dog is allowed into the house on a steady basis. If you are experiencing a digging problem, begin a program of obedience training immediately. Also, make sure your dog gets generous amounts of vigorous daily exercise. Teach her to play fetch. Include your dog in your activities. Some methods intended to solve digging are filling the holes with water and shoving the dog's face into them, installing chicken wire in the holes, and rigging the holes electrically (very dangerous). We have little confidence in such methods because they usually ignore the underlying problem: the owner's banishing the dog from the social circle.
Digging can, occasionally, be related to breed type. Some Siberian huskies and other sled-dog breeds and mixes seem to enjoy digging cooling holes. Dachshunds and other breeds genetically geared to go underground may show a predilection for digging. Pregnant bitches often begin burrowing activities as they near their whelping date. Most dogs respond well to a program of simple obedience commands and by being included, rather than excluded, from social activities inside the house.
Jumping Up
Why do dogs jump up on people? Usually they want attention, and since the face is the center of human communication, that is where they first seek that attention. It's an unwanted compliment: "I love you"— canine style. Also, many owners inadvertently encourage this common problem by allowing their new pups to playfully jump up on their legs while the owners reward them with petting. At twelve weeks of age this seems harmless enough, but how the perspective changes six months down the line! An exuberant, seventy-pound "teenager" can easily knock down a child or an elderly owner and assault your guests (however playfully), not to mention ruin your clothing and generally become a nuisance.
The most popular solution is the knee-in-the-chest routine. The trouble with this correction is twofold. First, it should not be the initial correction administered (we use it only as a last resort), and second, it is usually executed so poorly that the point of the correction is completely lost on the dog.
It's far better to start correcting the problem in puppyhood by teaching the sit. Establish a rule for the entire family pack that no jumping is allowed, whether you are wearing dungarees or a white suit. You have to have a consistent policy. Dogs cannot discriminate when it is acceptable to jump and when it is not. When you sense that the pup is ready to jump up, tell her to sit and put your palms out flat in front of her face to block jumping. When the pup sits, praise her warmly. Take the opportunity daily to condition the young pup by having her sit in front of you or other people.
Older dogs may need a more physical approach. Simply grasp her paws when the dog jumps up on you; gently move the paws slightly to the each side and begin moving slowly to keep the dog up on her two hind legs. Don't show any anger. In no time the dog becomes quite uncomfortable and wants to get down. The object is to establish in the dog's mind an unpleasant association with jumping up. Hold the paws a few seconds longer and then finally let the dog down and guide her into a sit. After giving her a firm "stay," jump up and down several times in front of her to give her the opportunity to jump up again, praising her quietly if she holds the sit-stay.
A word of caution about the popular knee-in-the-chest correction. It should be reserved for chronic cases, not for puppies or occasional jumpers, and it should never be done by anyone other than the owner(s). To execute it correctly, begin by observing the knee kicks of drum majors at football halftime events. When the dog jumps up on you, immediately grasp its paws and hold them. At the same time bring your knee up into the dog's mid-region and make firm contact. Then say, "No!" and push your arms out to heave the dog away from you. It is not so much the physical force involved that is important as the element of surprise and drama. Again — caution — this is not for puppies or sporadic jumpers. Try the other preventative methods first for them. Domineering owners may seize upon this correction to teach the dog not to jump "once and for all," which may backfire and have a detrimental effect on your overall relationship. Don't try to teach your dog to stop jumping up without teaching her the sit at the same time. Finally, whatever approach you use, be consistent. Remember, one good correction will save you fifty ineffective ones. If you want your dog not to jump, follow through the first time she jumps up.
41
Protection Training and Attack Training
If you are considering having your dog attack-trained, ask yourself the following questions:
■ Why do you want this kind of training?
■ What do you know about this kind of training?
■ How many other dogs have you seen with this kind of training?
■ Do you understand the difference between attack training, protection training, and Schutzhund training — or do you think that they are all the same?
■ Will you or your family be able to control your dog if you have him attack-trained?
■ Are you covered by insurance for any harm your attack-trained dog might do?
■ Does your dog need this kind of defensive training, or do you?
In our experience, in almost all cases, we have found that owners who seek attack training are misinformed and unqualified to handle such dogs.
Many owners want their dogs attack-trained because they feel threatened. Life in a big city and other crime-infested areas can be frightening, and men and women living alone need protection. But whether formal attack training is in order is another question entirely. Should a dog feel responsible for a person or to a person? There's a big difference. Dogs can be taught protective techniques that accomplish the owner's goal without going to the extreme of attack training. Even some trainers who specialize in attack training will tell you in candid moments that a good dog defends his owner naturally, without specialized training. Often the mere presence of a dog discourages intruders, and certainly a well-trained dog who can bark on command usually provides all the intimidation an owner may need.
There are several methods of attack training. Most, but not all, consist of a system of heaping "last straws" on the dog, demanding that the dog be put under stress and agitated until he decides "This is it! I'm not going to take it anymore!" resulting in growling, barking, or, eventually, a full-charge attack. This basic agitation is then channeled into verbal and hand signals — key words and gestures — s
uch as "get him," "fahss" (in German), and a raised arm, on which is usually worn a protective sleeve. Rarely, if ever, are the stereotypical words kill or attack used. The dogs are also taught the "out" command — to back off completely. This is a simplification of attack training, and we understand that to many responsible trainers (such as those in law enforcement), it is a sophisticated art.
However, such training presumes that the dog be absolutely sound, since it places him under a considerable amount of stress. As any police officer will tell you, the vast majority of dogs are unsuited for such training — only a small percentage can serve safely and reliably after such training. Consider whether your dog can sustain such stress, and whether you have the requisite knowledge of dogs to handle such training. Most often the answer will be a blunt no. More seriously, for such unsuited dogs, attack training most likely will have very negative side effects that could eventually endanger their lives. The contemporary legal system has little patience with vicious dogs. Also, though some trainers may be honest with you and tell you if your dog cannot take this kind of training or if they feel you could not handle a dog with this kind of training, others may not. Some trainers "attack-train" almost any dog, given enough time, the right method, and a paying owner, so don't be naive.
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 27