Pain Aggression
Pain aggression often occurs at a vet's office when the dog is given a shot, wheels around, and bites the vet or vet assistant. Being elevated onto an examination table is often enough to set some dogs off into a bite reaction when injected. Though veterinarians may insist on examination-table treatment, many such isolated bites and aggressive displays can be solved by on-the-floor exams. If you have a problem with this type of aggression, ask your vet in advance to treat your dog on the floor if elevation to the exam table is not essential. Only a veterinarian with a slipped disc should refuse.
Another type of aggression, which we have frequently seen, is the result of pain induced by hip dysplasia, auto accidents, or other injuries. For animals with these conditions in their background, aggression when getting up to a standing position, especially if forced, is a possibility. We have seen many cases in which large breeds have been involved in biting incidents when a child sits on the dog's hindquarters when playing, causing the dysplastic or previously injured dog to wheel around in pain and bite. Prevention is key here: respect the individual dog's condition and don't expect him to tolerate pain brought on by needless roughhousing or surprise contact. The only way to check for dysplasia or injury is to go to a vet and have your animal x-rayed. Treatment can often be as simple as aspirin administered twice daily, or as complicated as an operation to relieve the tension.
Learned or "Trained" Aggression
Chapter 41 in this book deals with the pitfalls of protection and attack training, not the least of which is the danger that the dog might misuse his acquired aggressive skills. Owners considering attack or protection training certainly should think twice about it. "Deprogramming," while possible, is difficult. Rehabilitation of these canine soldiers usually entails a prolonged separation from the owner; an emphasis on animated, happy training sessions; and avoidance of the cue words and hand signals the dog might have been conditioned to respond to with aggressive behavior.
Genetic Aggression
As professional breeders, we have had experience with the possibility of genetic aggression that some trainers do not have. This is an extremely difficult area to diagnose. For instance, genetic aggression often looks like fear or shyness aggression. Good trainers take into account the possibility that the aggressive behavior has genetic roots. They take the time to investigate the dog's bloodlines, checking the pedigree with the owner (and, if possible, the breeder) as well as the owner's recollections of the behavior of the sire and dam. "Certified" pedigrees with no degree or title information on the ancestors should be viewed suspiciously. Aside from puppy-mill and backyard breedings, almost every breed has what breeders call "freak bloodlines" that produce dogs with a propensity for aggressive reactions. Particularly when the aggression appears in the young dog, chances are good that one or both parents had trouble in this area. Experience can sensitize a trainer to detect genetically based aggression, but it is still very important for you to provide the trainer with all possible information about the dog's ancestors if you suspect this possibility.
If genetic aggression proves to be the diagnosis, there is a serious and difficult decision to be made. If we are dealing with a situation in which the dog's aggression appears to be dangerous and unpredictable, and the dog has badly bitten a number of times, euthanasia has to be considered. Any sort of remedial training will at best only mask a deeper problem that most likely will erupt spontaneously in manner that could injure someone seriously. As we shall see in chapter 46, there are times when the most loving and humane action an owner can take is to end a dog's life peacefully.
Maternal aggression, which crops up when a bitch has a litter and overdefends it from all comers, seems to be passed from mother to daughter. If this was a problem with the mother of your female and you plan to breed the daughter, reconsider your plans.
Again, we stress that if you are interested in a puppy, buy only from a reputable breeder. Try to meet the sire and dam of your puppy personally — not from behind a kennel cage, but in normal house circumstances if at all possible. Many dogs bark and look aggressive when "behind bars." If the breeder is hesitant to take the dog out of the kennel, or if the sire or dam shows an aggressive response, reconsider buying a puppy from their litter. Don't think that an aggressive father instills courage in your puppy. You may get much more than you bargained for. Purchase a sound puppy from sound parents and a conscientious breeder. Obtain a guarantee of temperament. This is the best way to sidestep the chance of genetic aggression.
44
Behavior In and Out of Cars
Riding in Cars
We often hear about the dog who "can't ride in a car." Dogs who vomit, whirl around, bark incessantly, or attempt to jump out of a moving vehicle are becoming a more frequent training problem. As urban and suburban auto use has risen, we find more dogs who are unable to adjust to the stress of riding in a car. Usually these dogs were not properly conditioned to riding as young pups. The poorly trained puppy develops a fear of cars at worst, and at best a lifeless resignation to riding. If we wish to include our dogs in our lives in an optimal way, we'll need to accustom them to riding in cars.
The First Ride
Ask the breeder whether the pup has been exposed to riding in a car. Tell the breeder that you prefer the pup's first ride not to be the ride home with you. Some breeders use foresight and load up a whole litter early after weaning to take them out for a short spin several times before sending them to their new homes. On adoption day, make sure the puppy has not eaten for at least three hours prior to leaving with you. If you have children, explain to them that the puppy will need quiet on the way home. During the pup's ride home with you, avoid any unnecessary coddling. Place the pup on the floor or on the seat next to you on top of a thick pile of spread-out newspapers. Do not respond to whining by petting (rewarding) the puppy. You cannot punish the puppy for any vomiting that may occur now — it is an involuntary reaction. If you scold and discipline the pup, you make him even more nervous about riding in cars. We often suggest that our clients simply drive to the bottom of our hill, stop under a shade tree, and rest a moment with the pup before continuing home. If you are going more than twenty miles, stop again for five minutes to give the pup's stomach a rest. The point is to try to get the pup home before he gets sick.
Teaching the Dog to Ride
Once you are home, begin acclimating the pup to riding in the car. For your initial trips, choose a smooth, straight road. Withhold food and water for at least three hours beforehand. Prior to starting out, let the pup sit in the parked car for five minutes. Proceed in the manner described above with short trips, ending in a play session. Gradually lengthen your trips until your dog can go farther than twenty miles without any sign of heavy salivating or indication of vomiting.
Whether puppy or older dog, your attitude about riding in the car affects your dog. Owners who coddle their dogs, overuse tranquilizers, or sympathize with stress-whiners actually encourage car problems. You should praise the dog excitedly as you near the car. As the dog jumps in (or as you load it in), give the dog a good deal of physical and verbal praise. After that, your job is to drive and the dog's job is to ride.
For safety's sake, use either a crate, canine safety harnesses, or a vehicle barrier to protect your dog against sudden stops or accidents. Crates fit conveniently in the back of station wagons and SUVs, and sometimes can fit on the backseat of a smaller car. Safety harnesses allow the dog to sit comfortably and securely on the front or back seat of any vehicle, and the vehicle barrier fits in vans, SUVs, and station wagons. There are simply too many possibilities for the unprotected dog to get injured with a quick stop to risk leaving your dog free in the car. Do not tolerate any barking from young puppies. With a friend driving, either use a shaker can (twenty pennies in a soda can — dogs hate the sound) or clench the pup's mouth shut and give a slight shake with a "nah."
Older Dogs with Car Problems
If you have an older
dog with an established barking problem, try this method. Begin on a normal trip with the dog confined or restrained. Deliberately drive past situations that you know will trigger a barking reaction from your dog. Just as the dog begins to bark, say, "No!" loudly and use a blast of an aerosol air horn. Doing so is safe and allows you to keep your eyes on the road. The sound is so disconcerting to the dog that it will break the dog's focus and quiet the dog.
Now drive on about a block and turn around and drive right past the same distraction as before. "Read" your dog's reaction in the rear-view mirror. If the dog appears eager to bark, slow down, and warn the dog. At the first sign of any whining or barking, repeat the routine.
You may wonder whether this procedure would be more effective if you drove and had a partner execute the corrections. It might be, but we have seen many cases in which a recalcitrant car barker clams up when the driver is accompanied, only to burst out in a flurry of barking when taken on a "solo flight" with one person who is busy driving.
One last piece of advice: if your dog is having a hysterical barking fit in the car, refrain from any yelling or screaming at your dog. Not only will the dog not hear it (it is too focused on the distraction), it will increase the level of your own stress. Condition your pup to driving in the car at a young age, and use the air horn for more ingrained problems.
Car Chasing, Barking at Cars
Dogs who chase cars usually suffer from hyperactivity or (more probably) sheer boredom. They are instinctively oriented to chasing down things that move, which in the wild was how they obtained their food. Additionally, dogs can be protecting their own territory, driving off the intruder with an explosion of barking. Such behavior is reinforced each time they chase a car and it "runs away." For a dog, such "successes" swell her pride and lead to repeated incidents of car or bicycle chasing that can be extremely dangerous. Even after a dog has suffered a serious injury, chasing behavior can persist, risking further injury or death.
The simplest solution is to prevent your dog from running loose on your property unsupervised (something we never recommend if the property is not fenced-in). Think preventatively: have the dog trail a long leash or rope from her collar when you are playing fetch if you suspect an inclination toward chasing and have not yet had the chance to address the problem directly. Then you can grab the rope if you have to stop the dog. But understand that the problem can express itself on simple walks along a road even with the dog on leash; suddenly she may bolt out toward the moving vehicle or bicycle. Should this happen, quickly move in the opposite direction, letting the dog receive the dramatic correction when she hits the end of the leash.
However, the best policy is to clip this behavior quickly when you first notice it in your puppy. Often puppies simply bark at cars or other moving objects, such as bicycles. The pup perceives the moving object as threatening. Pups should be exposed to moving vehicles in a controlled way, on leash, at a young age. Walk along a busy street with the pup at your side. Stop and encourage the pup if she looks hesitant about cars. If she shows too much interest, move away in a mock-frightened way. Never allow the pup to be called by persons in a car or on a bicycle.
Chronic car, bicycle, horse, or other-dog chasers need a correctional regimen that spans several areas. Popular corrections like heaving a water balloon at the dog from a car window, throwing BBs in his face, or using a squirt gun to ward off car attacks may be effective with some dogs, but they can too often be simply hit-or-miss measures. We don't place much confidence in them. A better strategy centers on the owner in a twofold approach. First, work on a renewed relationship with the dog, emphasizing the obedience exercises and the leadership of the dog owner. The dog must be trained to the sit, stay, and come level, at least. Preferably, the dog also should learn to heel and lie down on command. Second, set up a staged confrontation between dog and owner when the dog is chasing a car.
To concoct this confrontation, leave your pooch with a leash attached for two days. Just let the dog walk around with the leash dragging behind. Begin by having daily obedience sessions, emphasizing sit, stay, and come. Leave the leash on after the session. You will need it later. Secure the help of a neighbor or friend who is willing to drive by your property for a setup. It is best if this helper has a car that is unfamiliar to the dog. Explain your dog's behavior to your helper before this training exercise. Map out the dog's behavior on a sheet of paper, noting the position of the car and dog when the chasing normally begins. Some dogs are erratic. They may begin to chase a car when it rounds the bend a block from the house, but other times act excited only when a car is directly in front of the house. Still others behave like clockwork, charging when each car is lined up in a familiar position. Whatever your dog's habits, prepare your helper for them so that he or she will know when to brake.
When you are ready for your confrontation, have your dog out in that part of the yard where the chasing usually originates, trailing a long leash or rope. To prevent any kind of rope burn, wear gloves. Allow your dog the opportunity to walk freely trailing the rope, but stay close enough to him that you can pick up the rope quickly. Now have your friend drive the car slowly by the border of your property. When your dog begins to chase after the car, pick up the end of the rope and immediately begin running in the opposite direction (away from the car), holding the rope tight. When your dog hits the end of the line, he may well go flying in the air in surprise. Tap your leg and call him to you. Do not discipline him physically when he arrives. Simply put him on a down-stay and have the driver repeat the temptation several times, alternating starting positions with the dog. Since your dog will not be allowed to run freely in the yard without supervision, your monitoring the situation will teach him quickly to ignore passing cars.
Bear in mind that car, bicycle, or people chasing is often the result of two canine frustrations. First, the bored dog who is ostracized from the house for any considerable length of time eventually vents his frustration in some way — chewing, digging, or chasing being the most common. Second, the dog hooked up to a chain or kept behind a fence affording a full view of traffic often develops what is called barrier frustration. This pent-up tension is then aimed at any and all free-moving objects. Of course, a combination of boredom and barrier frustration is twice as mind-boggling for the dog. Part of the solution to chasing lies in somehow eliminating these conditions. The simplest way is to bring the dog into the house, where he belongs. If no one is home during the day, explore the possibility of enclosing a yard and installing a dog door. Some dogs may not need access to the outside at all and can be kept inside except for supervised exercise and defecation periods. The biggest holdup preventing these simple solutions is the owner who believes the myth that dogs "need to be outdoors" or that "dogs need exercise all day and should be allowed to run free." Believers of these myths might as well resign themselves to the possibility of a lifetime of coping with chronic chasing activities . . . or a dead dog.
45
Social Implications of Training
The Humane Society of the United States estimates that there are 150 million owned dogs and cats in the country. Though the society has done remarkable work in education and pet adoption and has seen a 30 to 60 percent decline in euthanasia in recent years, last year alone the nation's shelters still had to euthanize 4 to 6 million dogs and cats. The pet population in this country has been and continues to be out of control.
It is the responsibility of all dog owners to control the reproductive potential of their dogs, whether male or female. Spaying or neutering your dog is imperative unless you have serious breeding plans. If you do, please consider them carefully. Litters are hard work — take it from us; we've whelped and raised many over the years. The puppies demand time and patience. They must be socialized, trained, and placed in proper homes. It is serious business. By no means breed because you feel doing so would be good for the dog, or because you want your children to see the miracle of birth.
When you train your dog
, you are helping to stem the pet population explosion. Dogs that are obedience-trained have a healthy rapport with their owners. These dogs are not allowed to roam free and are managed responsibly, which is one important way of preventing unwanted backyard breeding. Properly trained dogs serve an important public function, since they help to balance out, in the public's eye, the large number of badly behaved dogs. Obedience training encourages good breeding. Poor genetic specimens usually do not train well, but dogs who are bred for brains and beauty do. They act as advertisements for responsible breeders and divert business from puppy mills and pet shops. Obedience training is an ethical imperative that not only improves the lot of dog and owner alike but can also help us control the unwanted pet population.
46
When a Dog Dies: Facing the Death of a Dog
In the voluminous literature on canine health and training, it is still the case that the death of a dog and how the dog owner reacts are subjects often avoided. Yet the death of a beloved pet is a reality dog owners may have to face more than once. Part of training involves training yourself to accept the inevitability of your pet's death.
In dog owner consultations we have had an opportunity to discuss with many clients the death or imminent death of their pets, whether by natural causes, accidents, or euthanasia. It is never an easy experience for client or counselor. We feel that an owner needs someone to talk to and should feel that the person to whom he or she is talking cares about the dog and the fact that the dog is dead, dying, or needs to be euthanized. Although the last thing someone needs is a cold, clinical approach, sentimentality should not be wheeled in, either.
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 29