The Silent Weaver

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by Roger Hutchinson




  Roger Hutchinson is an award-winning author and journalist. After working as an editor in London, in 1977 he joined the West Highland Free Press in Skye. Since then he has published fifteen books. He is now a columnist for the WHFP, and a book reviewer for The Scotsman. His book The Soap Man (Birlinn 2003) was shortlisted for the Saltire Scottish Book of the Year (2004) and the bestselling Calum’s Road (2007) was shortlisted for the Royal Society of Literature’s Ondaatje Prize.

  THE SILENT WEAVER

  The Extraordinary Life and Work of Angus MacPhee

  Roger Hutchinson

  First published in 2011 by

  Birlinn Limited

  West Newington House

  10 Newington Road

  Edinburgh

  EH9 1QS

  www.birlinn.co.uk

  Copyright © Roger Hutchinson 2011

  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

  The moral right of Roger Hutchinson to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

  ISBN: 978 1 84158 971 8

  eBook ISBN: 978 0 85790 089 0

  British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

  A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

  Typeset by Edderston Book Design, Peebles

  Printed and bound in the UK by Clays Ltd, St Ives plc

  CONTENTS

  Preface

  1 The Horse Soldiers

  2 Tir a’ Mhurain

  3 The Rocky Hill of the Bird

  4 Self-medicating

  5 A Rare State of Purity

  6 The Reluctant Exhibitor

  7 Another Age

  Notes

  Bibliography

  PREFACE

  The life of Angus MacPhee seems at times more like fiction than fact – it is difficult not to be reminded of the epic Gaelic stories which were still told in his childhood by old men before peat fires over four or five consecutive nights.

  A boy from an island far out in the western ocean, who learned antique traditions before riding away on his horse to become a soldier, who experienced a transformational crisis, who then maintained an almost Trappist silence for the rest of his long life while weaving items that nobody understood from the produce of the fields and woods, before burning them. It sounds like a medieval legend, or a flight of fancy better left to a magical realist. In the twentieth century it seems purely fantastic.

  But the facts are true. The story of Angus MacPhee wanders down several captivating country lanes. The tenacious old ways of Celtic Britain; the deracination of a remote and insular culture. The under-celebrated adventures of the Lovat Scouts during the Second World War; the drama of remote islanders being sent to garrison islands even more remote than their own. The scandals and achievements of mental health theory and treatment in the second half of the twentieth century; the troublesome and influential realisations of Outsider Art. The possibility of redemption through creativity; the love of family and place . . .

  That is the story of a man who was thought to drift through his own life like an aimless ghost. It is true that Angus MacPhee was robbed of control and direction for a period in his youth. It is also true that he steadily, wilfully won back his character, his substance, and ultimately the place that he loved; the place that for half a century he can only have seen in dreams, but that had inspired the burnt offerings which he made twice a year throughout his adulthood.

  One of the many mysteries surrounding Angus MacPhee’s handmade filigrees of grass, leaves and flowers is that none of them survive as they originally appeared and few of them survive at all. To a large extent we can only guess at his achievements.

  The creations of what must have been his prime between 1946 and 1977 – those fabled patterns of bright green grass and spring blossoms, the gloves and swallow-tailed coats and hats like sunbursts – were all, with the artist’s consent if not active cooperation, cremated or composted.

  Even those that were saved after 1977 were soon distorted and made colourless by the passing of the seasons. Like classical statuary, or forgotten frescos in the eaves of some Calabrian chapel, their verdant beryls, blues, yellows and reds have all been naturally, inevitably reduced to different shades of brown.

  But they impress us even in their deterioration, and that is curious. Are we projecting? Is our imagination allowed too free a rein, so we appreciate not something that actually was, but something as we wish it to have been? Is it a freak show – are we wondering not at the quality of an object, but that it was made at all by a mentally handicapped Gael and former mounted soldier from the Western Isles?

  It doesn’t matter. During an extraordinary life Angus MacPhee made idiosyncratic objects with unique skills. It is no longer important how we or the critics value them; whether they are described as art, craft or therapy. Their originator was always above and beyond all that, and his weavings have joined him. As he wasted no time giving them marks out of ten, nor need we.

  They are in a different place and should be seen from another perspective. The few of his creations that have been preserved are what anthropologists call survivals. They have not only survived from the 1970s and 1980s. They are in essence much older than that. They are living relics of a lost world. They are atavisms. They are like nothing else in twenty-first-century Europe.

  They are also symbols of another survival: the endurance, against terrible odds, of the indomitable wit and spirit of Angus MacPhee. That is why we gape.

  I would like to thank Angus MacPhee’s nephew and niece, Iain Campbell and Eilidh Shaw, for their time and their invaluable help, and Joyce Laing for guiding me patiently through the long story of her own and Angus MacPhee’s involvement in Art Extraordinary. Without those three people I could not have written this book. Any errors are of course mine, not theirs.

  Neither are errors the fault of any of these men and women. . . thanks also to Jackie Agnew, Patrick Cockburn, Maggie Cunningham, Wilma Duncan, Shona Grant, George Hendry, Nick Higgins, Brian Johnstone, Iain MacDonald, the late Jimmy ‘Apples’ Macdonald, Father Michael J. MacDonald, Morag MacDonald, Roddy ‘Poker’ MacDonald, Alasdair Maceachen, Joan Macintyre, Calum MacKenzie, Chris Mackenzie, Linsey MacKenzie, Tommy MacKenzie, Cailean MacLean, Norman ‘Curly’ MacLeod, John McNaught, Donald John MacPherson, Dougie MacPherson, MacTV, Chris Meecham, Mary Miers, Donnie Munro, Rob Polson, Andrew Wiseman and Gus Wylie.

  And finally, thanks to Hugh Andrew, Andrew Simmons, Jim Hutcheson, Jan Rutherford and all at Birlinn, to my editor Anita Joseph, and to my agent Stan of Jenny Brown Associates.

  Roger Hutchinson

  Raasay, 2011

  1

  THE HORSE SOLDIERS

  ‘Here’s to . . . we never have to do it again.’

  Early in September 1939, riders in battledress cantered down a broad, grassy plain on the western edge of Europe. The young men of Uist were going to war again.

  They went in the high hundreds from islands whose populations numbered only a few thousand. Crofting families in the Scottish Hebrides were big families, with a surplus of men in their late teens and twenties to offer to the army and the navy.

  Over sixty years later an elderly lady, a sister of one of the men of 1939, would gaze from one end of her small South Uist village to the other. In a still, calm voice she recalled how the girl she had been watched the youths depart from every single croft.

  ‘Two people from that house, somebody from that house,’ she said. ‘Angus from this house, Father MacQueen’s middle brother from that house, two boys from that house . . . They all went the day
when war broke out. It was a great adventure for them. They all loved going.’

  Some walked to muster, some sailed and some took their horses. The crofters and fishermen of the Outer Hebrides had been for decades willing recruits to the Territorial Army and the Royal Naval Reserve. Drill halls were established in North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist. Teenage boys with few other recreations joined up, learned to parade and do press-ups, and were rewarded by annual excursions to mainland summer camps.

  ‘It was the best way for getting a fortnight’s holiday away from the island and enjoying yourselves,’ said one Uist man. ‘I don’t think it was patriotism. For some it might have been, but not as far as I was concerned. The other boys went, and you all went for a fortnight to camp and had a good time.’

  Most of those army reservists went from Uist early in September 1939 to be infantrymen in the Cameron Highlanders. But some, a self-consciously select minority, rode off to be horse soldiers with the Lovat Scouts. They were a military anachronism in 1939, but they could not be expected to recognise it. They and their animals were the last representatives of an equestrian culture which had flourished on the greensward of western Uist for millennia.

  As they rode to war they skirted mile after mile of ground which their people had turned over for grains and root vegetables using horse-drawn ploughs. They passed over the arenas for popular horse races in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. They led their mounts through communities which had not yet been colonised by the motor car, the lorry and the tractor.

  They rode from all parts of the three distinct islands of North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist. Some districts contributed more horse soldiers than others, by virtue of their greater reliance on horses in everyday crofting life and consequently their superior horsemanship.

  One such district was Iochdar at the north end of South Uist. ‘The horses in Iochdar were famous throughout the Uists,’ said a local priest. ‘The Iochdar people have always had the reputation of being “big farmers” and the horses were the most important farm animals. They had to be fed first – every type of croft or farm work depended on them.’

  The young Lovat Scouts who rode out of Iochdar on 4 September 1939 included a tall, shy, quietly spoken 24-year-old named Angus Joseph MacPhee – the older brother of that girl who, decades later, would point out one by one the homes of the mobilised men.

  Angus and his comrades ignored the main arterial road which ran through the middle of the long island of South Uist. Instead they took their horses – invariably their best and favourite horses – southwards down the machair, along that broad, grassy, westernmost plain, with the Atlantic Ocean surging on their right and the high brown hills of Uist rising on their left, for almost 20 miles until they turned east to the ferry port of Lochboisdale.

  Angus MacPhee and the other Lovat Scouts from Iochdar rode proud and erect, in their tunics and their Balmoral bonnets with a diced band, through the busy, familiar townships of the machair. They were almost the only ordinary soldiers from rural Britain to take their horses to the second industrial European war of the twentieth century. They were among the very last active, rather than ceremonial, British horse soldiers.

  They were also the only members of the British Army whose horses’ bridles were traditionally hand-plaited from coastal marram grass.

  The Lovat Scouts had first been raised 40 years earlier by the 14th Lord Lovat, Simon Joseph Fraser, whose extensive hereditary estate encircled Beaufort Castle and the towns of Kiltarlity and Beauly in the eastern Scottish Highlands.

  In 1900 Simon Fraser was a 29-year-old former officer in the Queen’s Own Cameron Highlanders. He decided to aid his country’s war against the Boers in South Africa by assembling a regiment which would utilise the unique rough-country field craft, mettle and clannishness of the Highland estate stalker and ghillie.

  The Lovat Scouts had a good Boer War (‘half wolf and half jackrabbit’, said their American major, Frederick Burnham) and, a few years later, an even better First World War. On the Western Front in 1916 they turned their rifle sights from the stag to the Hun, and formed the British Army’s first company of snipers.

  In the peace of 1922 the Lovat Scouts were re-formed as a Territorial Army unit with a complement of about 400 soldiers. They were divided into three squadrons. ‘A’ Squadron recruited from mainland Inverness-shire, and ‘C’ Squadron from the other northern Highland counties of Sutherland, Ross-shire and Caithness. There was overlap between their geographical constituencies, but the other detachment, ‘B’ Squadron, was chiefly the Hebridean island unit. ‘B’ Squadron took men specifically from North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Skye, reinforced by some other Gaelic speakers from the western mainland.

  Between 1922 and 1939 the Lovat Scouts held 16 summer camps to which the Uist men took their own horses – all but one of them in the mainland Scottish Highlands at such places as Strathpeffer, Nairn and (heavy with folk-memory) Culloden.

  Michael Leslie Melville, an officer with the Lovat Scouts between 1936 and 1951 and a historian of the regiment, remembered those pre-war camps with affection. ‘It was demanding work and seemed quite “up-to-date”,’ wrote Melville.

  In some of the schemes Major Bill Whitbread, piloting his own aircraft, even represented the Luftwaffe, to the ponies’ occasional alarm.

  One remembers Sports days with perpetual piping and sunshine, when the highlights were the V.C. race [wherein a horse and jockey would make the outward ride solo, but collect a pillion passenger for the return leg] and inter-Squadron tug-of-war and when old Scouts, some of them very old, came great distances to see the fun.

  The officers were kindly invited to the annual Sergeants’ Mess Concert and Ceilidh at which the best musical talent in the Regiment was mustered – an evening of inspired fiddle music, piping, Gaelic song and the ‘mouth music’, with many good tales thrown in.

  In 1935 and 1936 the War Office, motivated by ominous events in central Europe, reviewed its regimental functions. It was decided that the Lovat Scouts should be a fully mounted observer regiment of 580 men. Their job would not be that of traditional cavalry, but ‘to provide mobile troops for duties of reconnaissance and protection, probably in a minor theatre of war’.

  They formed a link between the new world and the old. By the late 1930s the Lovat Scouts, which just 20 years earlier had become the first sharpshooter corps, was the last mounted reconnaissance troop attached to the British Army. The men of the far north and west, who had ridden with Calgacus, Bruce and Wellington, were the ultimate representatives of chivalric warfare from their islands.

  In 1933 the 15-year-old Donald John MacPherson of Claddach Baleshare on the west coast machair of North Uist went along to Bayhead Drill Hall and joined the Cameron Highlander Territorials.

  ‘But I was daft about horses,’ said Donald John. ‘Keen on horses. I loved horses – I used to ride bareback, with my hands waving free. And so four years after I joined I was referred from the Camerons to the Lovat Scouts – with the horses. I only did one camp with the Lovat Scouts, in 1938. There was an awful lot of horses with the Scouts. A lot of men from the islands with horses. We used to have competitions in the camp – horse races and the like.’

  Angus MacPhee of Iochdar, who was also daft about horses, was enlisted in 1934 to the Lovat Scouts Territorial Army unit at Carnan Drill Hall, a couple of miles east of his home.

  In peacetime, both men were accustomed to equipping their precious ponies with bridles and other accoutrements expertly woven from the thick, strong strands of marram grass which proliferated on the dunes of western Uist.

  ‘We used marram grass horses’ collars,’ said Donald John MacPherson. ‘We never made them, but we bought them from Neil MacVicar in Baleshare. He made horses’ collars for pulling the cart from marram grass. MacVicar’s family, his boys, used to make them and sell them in the district.’

  In Iochdar, Angus MacPhee did not have to buy woven marram grass. He had known how to make it since boyho
od. ‘In the ’30s and the ’20s they could weave with grass,’ said Angus’s sister Peigi, ‘they could weave with heather, and they could make the marram grass . . . that’s what the old houses were all thatched with, that’s what my father would thatch with.’

  As August turned into September in 1939 the lives of Angus MacPhee and Donald John MacPherson, which had been connected hitherto by the same Gaelic language and culture, Hebridean lifestyle and military affiliation, but separated by two tidal strands and the small island of Benbecula, converged beneath the clouds of a late summer war.

  On Thursday 31 August the British fleet mobilised and the men of the Royal Naval Reserve were called up. The next day, Friday 1 September, Nazi Germany invaded Poland, to whom the United Kingdom was bound by treaty.

  ‘That Friday night,’ said Donald John MacPherson, ‘I was as usual in my bed, reading a book, and a knock came to the door at one o’clock in the morning. It was them calling us out, to be at Bayhead Drill Hall the next day, Saturday morning at eleven o’ clock. We were told then that on Monday we were going away. We got our uniforms from the drill hall, went back and got the horse.’

  On Saturday 2 September, as Donald John MacPherson and Angus MacPhee were collecting their uniforms and instructions from Bayhead and Carnan drill halls in North Uist and South Uist respectively, compulsory military service for all British men between the ages of 18 and 41 was announced.

  On Sunday 3 September 1939, as the two Uist men were attending their last church services at home for a very long time, Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain declared war on Germany.

  Donald John MacPherson’s courageous Second World War lasted until 1945 and would take him across two continents. Angus MacPhee was beginning an uncharted journey which would occupy the remainder of his long life. Donald John went to North America and southern Europe, and returned alive to tell the tales. Angus went to unmapped places, in which he had to create his own means of expression and realise a lonely, simple and precious form of solace. He would never properly return.

 

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