by Shojai, Amy
7. Choose complementary activity types. A playful cat as a partner with your lap-sitting pooch can work well because neither infringes on the other’s preferred way of life. An energetic pup also helps get the overweight couch-potato cat off her furry tail, while the sedate cat may have a settling influence on the brash dynamo.
8. Introduce the new pet to one resident animal at a time. It’s not fair to subject them to the whole “gang” and it’s more difficult for you to supervise more than a pair.
9. ALWAYS pay more attention to the resident pet when he or she is within view. The resident pet will be much more willing to accept a newcomer as long as your affections aren’t usurped.
10. Be patient. It may take days, weeks or even months for the pets to accept each other and get along. Some pets may never become friends, and the best you can hope for is tolerance or avoidance.
STEP-BY-STEP INTRODUCTIONS
Introducing your cat and dog to each other may immediately result in love at first sight, or more commonly will take time for the pair to accept each other. Follow the steps below when both the resident(s) and the new pet are confident, healthy animals that have been properly socialized as pups or kittens.
Dog-to-dog introductions are best begun on “neutral” territory, which often means the park or a neighbor’s yard. But plunking the cat down in a carrier or on a leash in the middle of a park spells disaster on a grand scale! Therefore, dog-to-cat introductions must take place in your home in a similar fashion to cat-to-cat introductions, with accommodations made for the sensitivities of the dog and cat involved.
Watch your pets’ body language to gauge their feelings. A tail-up greeting from the cat indicates a friendly approach, while a canine play-bow, an easy-going wag, and perhaps a yawn or two or rolling on his back says Rex means no harm. Delay the next step if you see the cat swish her tail or pin her ears flat to her head—that means she’s fearful and may become aggressive. Dominant dogs may place a paw on the cat’s back, or signal aggression with raise hackles, or a snarl.
Take care to curb the new baby pet’s enthusiasm. Puppies and kittens may not understand the “keep back!” signals of the older resident pet, so make sure the adults have enough room to get away to avoid a defensive snap. Containing clueless youngsters inside pet carriers, or on leases, can be helpful. On the plus side, gregarious pups and juvenile cats don’t discourage easily and often wear down curmudgeonly residents, as long as you run interference and ensure safety.
Adult-to-multiple-adult introductions take the longest because each “pair” must meet individually, and work out his or her own feelings about the interloper. Dogs tend to follow your lead, so make it clear you welcome the newcomer and your resident canine crew will be more accepting of the new cat.
It’s vital that your resident “top dog” or “king cat” be fed first, petted first, groomed first, and be given any other preferential treatment, to ensure peace and harmony in the multi-pet household. Never show preferred attention to an animal lower in the hierarchy; that simply prompts confusion and may inspire the “King” to put the lower ranking pet in his place. Old dogs or cats may need to have private feeding and resting times so they’re not bothered by a more energetic newcomer.
The following techniques help ease introductions. New dogs that meet resident cats won’t always require the same steps as when introducing a new cat to resident dogs, but some tips apply to both scenarios. You live with your animals and know them best, so use your good judgment to create a workable program. In almost all cases, it’s best to take extra time rather than rush through the techniques, and don’t be afraid to start from scratch if one of the animals needs this help.
FOR BOTH:
· Spay or neuter the newcomer BEFORE introductions. Fixed dogs and cats aren’t as great a threat to the status quo.
· Use pheromone products to calm the pets and reduce the stress of introductions. The plug-in products Feliway for cats and D.A.P. for dogs diffuse in the air to benefit all the pets, or spray D.A.P. on a kerchief for a particular dog to wear.
· Add a few drops of Rescue Remedy to the drinking water of the pets.
· Sequester the new pet in a single room with all the necessary kitty or doggy accoutrements. If a new pet came with a favorite bed or toy, be sure to include this in his room so that the old, familiar smells help keep him calm.
· Choose a room with a door that shuts completely such as second bedroom. Isolating the new pet tells your resident pet that only a small portion of the house has been invaded, not all the territory.
· Expect cats to posture or hiss and dogs to sniff, whine, growl or bark whether they’re new pets or current residents. Feel encouraged once the barking and hissing fade, especially if the canine “play-bows” at the door or the pair play patty-cake-paws under the door.
· After the new pet has been in the room alone for a few days, and the hisses or growls have faded, bring out something the new pet has scented, such as a plate of food where she just ate, and allow your resident dog or cat to smell it.
INTRODUCING NEW CAT TO A RESIDENT DOG:
· Put the dog in his yard out of sight while you bring the new cat into the house and leave her in her “isolation room.” Problems are much less likely if a resident dog enters the house and finds the new kitty already there.
· Sequestering Sheba allows her to become used to the “domain” of the isolation room so she feels safe and has a home based. It also allows her to safely interact with the resident dogs with paw pats under the door. Simply put down her carrier, open it, and then leave the room so she can come out at her own pace.
· Once the hissing fades and the paw pats increase, allow your new cat to wander around the rest of the house while Rex stays outside in the yard. Don’t force anything, simply open the isolation room door and let Sheba explore and “map” the location of all the good hiding places and high perches to feel safe.
· While Sheba explores one of the other rooms, let the resident dog check out the “safe room” to become more familiar with the new cat’s smells.
· Next, install a baby gate in the isolation room so the cat and dog can meet at their own speed, but through the safety of the barrier. Pay attention to how each pet reacts before proceeding to the next step. You want to see confidence and interest, and if either pet shows shyness or aggression, give them more time. Refer to the “Fear and Shyness” section.
· If you don’t have a baby gate, you can use a pet carrier to contain a confident new cat and/or the resident dog that’s small or shy. DO NOT place a frightened cat in a carrier and allow a pushy dog to sniff, or you’ll further traumatize her and delay any acceptance of the resident dog.
· Once Sheba feels comfortable navigating your house and meetings through the baby gait or carrier have gone well, prepare for whisker-to-whisker meetings. Avoid fanfare. Put the dog on a leash, and then open the baby gate and watch what happens. Remember to confine this introduction to the new cat and only one of your dogs, not everybody at once.
· Keep the pets away from closely confined spaces during initial meetings. An open room with lots of space reduces tension.
· Feed both pets during this initial meeting, on opposite ends of a room to distract them and also help them associate FOOD with each other’s presence.
· If the pets aren’t interested in food, engage them in play. Whoever your dog feels closest to should interact with the cat, so Rex sees that YOU accept the kitty and will be more willing to follow his beloved owner’s example.
· Make your resident dog smell like the new cat. Sheba identifies friendly family members by their scent—and everyone smells alike when they like each other because of mutual grooming, and cheek rubbing behavior. The “vanilla trick” can work by dabbing a bit of vanilla extract—or your favorite cologne—on the back of the neck and base of the tail of both animals.
· Ensure feline perches are out of dog-sniffing range but within Sheba’s reach.
· I
nterrupt sniffing every now and then by calling the dog away or guiding him with the leash. Keep these initial meetings short—about five to ten minutes—so you don’t wear out the pets.
· If they start to play, great! Allow play for a few minutes, and then break up the games and end the session on a good note so they want more of each other.
· Continue to segregate the cat in her safe room whenever you cannot directly supervise the pair. Most cats can jump over the baby gate and regulate interactions, or you can place a stepstool for Sheba—or raise the baby gate just enough for her to wiggle beneath. Continue to offer more planned meetings for another week, monitoring the dog until he can control himself and respects the cat even when off leash.
INTRODUCING NEW DOG TO A RESIDENT CAT:
· Ask a friend to bring the new dog into the house out of sight of the resident cat so kitty won’t associate you with the “scary” critter.
· Keep the isolation room door shut for at least the first week, and longer if necessary. Resident cats become upset at the sight of a stranger but may be curious about the smell or sound.
· Isolating Rex allows the resident cats to feel less threatened while learning to accept the new smells and sounds of that dog-behind-the-door.
· Schedule Rex’s potty breaks to keep them from seeing each other too soon. Put Sheba in your bedroom during the dog’s travels to and from the back yard.
· Offer Sheba the opportunity to check out the “safe room” while the dog is outside, to become more familiar with the dog’s smells. Just leave the door open and she’ll explore at her leisure, but don’t force her into the room. Let it be the cat’s idea.
· Next, replace the isolation room door with a baby gate so the pets can see each other, and sniff or paw pat through the opening while they’re safely separated. Your cat can control the interaction by jumping over or winding through the baby gate, if she really feels the urge to check out Rex.
· If you don’t have a baby gate, and the dog is small enough, you can place Rex inside a crate or pet carrier for the cat to approach in a safe, controlled way. Watch both pets’ reactions closely and delay the next step until you are satisfied they feel comfortable.
· Put Rex on a leash before removing the baby gate, so he and the cat can finally meet. Remember, these initial introductions should be between the new pet and only ONE of your resident animals, not everybody at once.
· Keep Rex under leash control but give him some wiggle room or a tight leash can make him feel tense.
· Make initial meetings as pleasant as possible. If your cat feels proprietary toward you, engage her in a fishing pole game while another family member handles Rex, so that the cat associates the dog with good things for her. You can also give each animal a plate of food on opposite ends of a room, to distract them and reward the fact they ignore each other.
· Use a dab of vanilla extract—or your favorite perfume or cologne—and dab just a bit on the back at the base of the tail, and on the back of the neck of both pets to make them smell alike. Making the new dog smell like the cat goes a long way toward encouraging Sheba to accept him as a family member.
· Whenever possible make initial meetings in an open room with lots of space, and lots of cat second-story perches available. That way, Sheba can check out the dog from her cat tree, well beyond nose-sniffing range, and feel more comfortable.
· Keep first nose-to-nose meetings to only five or ten minutes, and then give everyone a break and return the dog to his room.
· When the dog and cat willingly nose sniff, the cat cheek rubs the dog, and/or Rex play-bows an invitation to a game, that’s great! Allow play for a few minutes at a time, but interrupt before either pet becomes overexcited.
· Continue to offer planned meetings for another week, monitoring the dog until he can control himself and respects the cat even when off leash.
· Segregate the new pet alone in his “safe room” whenever you are not able to directly supervise, until you are satisfied that the cat and dog get along well, and both have “safe places” they can retreat when necessary.
CUTTING THE CHASE
Some dogs can’t resist chasing the cat, but Sheba doesn’t appreciate being turned into a windup toy for the dog’s amusement. Teaching Rex to refrain from the chase not only enforces good manners, but also becomes a safety issue.
You can train better doggy manners by placing a confident cat in a protective carrier, and then giving the dog treats for behaving calmly. Ask the dog to sit, heel, stay, or other obedience commands, and offer the BEST treats (a bonanza of a whole handful!) for moving away from the cat. Be aware, though, that such a situation can be highly traumatic for shy cats even if you treat Sheba as well.
A better technique for most cats uses classical conditioning. Just as Pavlov conditioned dogs to salivate when they heard a bell, you teach your dog to respond to the cat’s presence in an acceptable manner. You’ll need a leash, treats, the cat and dog, and lots of patience.
· Ensure the cat’s safety by keeping your dog under leash control. Prevent ANY chase from taking place, because the activity feels so good to your dog he’ll gladly ignore or give up any other type of reward. Even if the cat instigates the session (some cats tease dogs unmercifully), don’t allow any chase or tag games until after the dog has learned proper manners.
· Have plenty of smelly, tasty treats handy, ready to reinforce your dog at the drop of a hat—or presence of a cat.
· Every time (and I mean EVERY time) the cat makes an appearance, give the dog a treat. Offer this reward whether he acts calm, excited, looks at the cat, barks or anything else. The equation should be: CAT’S PRESENCE = DOG TREAT. Use the leash only to keep him a safe distance from the kitty, not to force his attention or behavior into what you want him to do. Let his brain process the equation on its own time. Some dogs “get it” right away and others take longer.
· Within a few sessions, nearly every dog will start to look to you for a treat each time the cat appears. Rather than lunging and chasing instinctively, you’ve conditioned a new response: to expect a reward.
· Continue to reinforce this behavior for at least a week or two. Brush up with more training sessions as needed—for some dogs, that might be every month. Make sure the dog stays leashed and the pets separated when not supervised, until confident the new canine response has become ingrained.
PART THREE, “COMMON MULTIPET FRUSTRATIONS
Chapter 10. PET PEEVES
Whether you have two cats or a dozen, chances are you will experience one or more of these top complaints. It’s hard enough to train proper behavior to a single cat but sharing your house with many complicates how to deal with these issues. Companion critters can tempt clueless pets into causing trouble.
Cats don’t behavior badly to get your goat, though, and understanding what prompts these behaviors is the first step to finding a solution. The key is to make the objectionable behavior less appealing, and give the miscreant a better “legal” alternative.
Other times, the irksome behavior is perfectly normal and in cat language may even be a compliment or expression of affection. Understanding these puzzling feline antics not only helps owners learn how to better deal with frustration but also helps us appreciate our cats unique and endearing foibles.
BUTT PRESENTATION
Cat butt presentation is a part of cat talk and cats normally sniff each other’s anal regions the same way people smile in greeting. Friendly cats also present their ass-ets to humans when they jump onto laps and turns around. Don’t be upset—your cat is simply being polite.
When cats greet each other for the first time they sniff each other's face and neck as a sort of "hello there." This could be compared to you nodding a greeting to a stranger at first meeting. Sniffing this area also picks up pheromones that signal friendship first sniffs to the cheeks actually help calm feelings of aggression or fear.
The second stage of meet-and-greet sniffing proceeds to sniffing
flanks, which could be the equivalent to a human "nice to meet you" polite handshake. This is the area that holds family scent of other cat body rubs, grooming, or a human's petting hand so it tells the sniff-er quite a lot about the cat and relationships.
The final sniffing stage targets the anal region beneath the raised tail. The cat's signature scent is found here, and this scent tells cats about sexual status and reveals the most. Kitties that keep the tail down and don't want to be sniffed might be compared to a shy person hiding her face.
Since a raised tail signals, "I mean no threat," the combination of raised tail with offering a butt-sniffing opportunity is the equivalent of a human's enthusiastic hug or a kiss on each cheek in greeting.
Does the cat expect you to sniff? Probably not. As much as they love us, cats know we aren’t cats feline. Still, the polite body language speaks volumes about how the cat feels about us. Offering a sniff signals great trust and affection. The cat butt sniff offer is a back-handed feline compliment.
Dumping her off your lap or otherwise snubbing the behavior can lead to the cat ignoring your overtures, as well. Cats tend to reciprocate affection when we do the same—a quid pro quo arrangement that benefits all involved. So when she presents butt, give your cat a scratch and entice her into another, more appreciated pose with a feather toy, for example.
CATERWAULING
Humans often overlook body language that makes up a great deal of cat communication, but feline yowls, growls, hisses and purrs get our undivided attention—especially at 5:00 a.m.
Not all cats are vocal. Persians and the beautiful blue Chartreux breeds, for instance, tend to be rather quiet while Siamese and Oriental-type breeds are especially talkative. One yodeler can get the whole furry crew caterwauling.