The new Balmoral was occupied by the royal family on 7 September 1855, although many of the courtiers and servants still had to live at the old house or rough it in cottages on the estate. One Court lady took a dim view of the fact that her breakfast was delivered to her cottage accommodation each morning in a wheelbarrow. Queen Victoria recorded: ‘An old shoe was thrown after us into the house, for good luck, when we entered the hall.’ The throwing was done by the French steward in charge of the house, François d’Albertançon, who had filled the same role for Sir Robert Gordon. To enhance the royal family’s privacy, a new bridge was opened over the Linn of Dee on 8 September 1857, thus diverting the old road which used to pass close by Balmoral. By 1859 Prince Albert’s improvements for the gardens and grounds were complete, with new cottages for retainers and beds of roses flanked with white poplars from Coburg.
In time Balmoral was to formulate its own ‘Court’. Day-today administration, while the Queen was in residence on her twice-yearly visits, was carried out by the Lord Chamberlain and his staff, supplemented by a Commissioner and Factor at Balmoral. They would all regularly cross swords with John Brown in the future. Brown became an expert in Queen Victoria’s ‘Balmoral routine’, any variation of which made her cross. She was an early riser and often preferred to take her breakfast at 9am in a former gardener’s cottage near the castle. Here she would scan the albums of newspaper cuttings, trimmed and pasted in each day by her wardrobe maids. Lunch was at 2pm, tea at 5.30pm and dinner at 8.45pm, with pipers playing outside the windows at all meals. Interspersed with the meals were morning, afternoon and evening drives as the Queen fancied, with the outside staff meeting her after the latter with flaming torches in winter.23
Although at Balmoral she was hundreds of miles from the heart of government, Queen Victoria was a stickler for detail in preparing her letters and dispatches. Two extra trains ran from Aberdeen to Ballater for this purpose at 11pm and 4pm, and there was always a Balmoral courier waiting at the station to meet the trains, with a distinctive yellow gig.24 Before the railway system was developed it took two days for dispatches from London to reach Balmoral; a twelve-hour journey by train carried the mail and couriers to Perth, before another half a day’s journey by postchaise brought them to Balmoral.25
There were many reasons why Balmoral became a special place for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. It was a place of refuge and recreation, in the latter’s true meaning of being refreshed and fashioned anew. At Balmoral they could be themselves without the constant fear of giving offence by making the wrong move publicly. Certainly in the early years of their marriage, Queen Victoria was aware that her German consort was not popular. At Balmoral they were away from the sneering glances of criticism; at Balmoral they had no necessity to be always circumspect. More than that, it was a place that they had found themselves, in a home they had created themselves, with a household they had formed themselves, with no age-old traditions to be adhered to under the creakingly archaic control of the Royal Household at Buckingham Palace or Windsor. Balmoral gave them an escape from the awful world of lackeys-in-waiting who were more keen to be ladies and gentlemen than servants. The Scots staff at Balmoral were willing, honest and openly sincere, and were not shocked by what the southern courtiers might regard as the Queen’s eccentricities.26
It was Charles Greville who first noted Queen Victoria’s delight ‘in the simplicities and sincerities that she found in Scotland’.27 This was to lead to a certain naivety in her acceptance of all things ‘Highland’, but Balmoral gave her much-needed relief from the ceremonial and court routines. She loved the lack of obsequiousness on the part of the Highlanders: one gillie’s mother – Old Mrs Grant – welcomed the Queen to her home with the words ‘I am happy to see you looking so nice’, which made the Queen glow with affection. At Balmoral then, Queen Victoria had a sense of gehören (belonging).
CHAPTER ONE
CHILD OF THE MOUNTAINS
John Brown was born at Crathienaird in Crathie parish, Aberdeenshire, on 8 December 1826, the second son of John Brown (1790–1875), a tenant farmer, and his wife Margaret Leys (1799–1876), who also came from farming stock.1 They married at Crathie on 25 August 1825, when Margaret was five months pregnant.2 John and Margaret courted and were betrothed through the old Highland custom of ‘bundling’, a practice in which the sweethearts slept together, without undressing, in the same bed or couch. According to the tradition, should the ‘bundling’ prove fruitful and the baby seemed likely to go to full term, the couple married.3 So John and Margaret Brown already had a year-old son, James, born on 15 November 1825, when John arrived.4
When John Brown was born his future royal employer and friend had entered her eighth year; Victoria was born on Monday 24 May 1819 at Kensington Palace. Her father Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn, died on 23 January 1820, just six days before his blind and insane father King George III. So little Alexandrina Victoria, the new heir to the throne, was brought up in reduced circumstances by her affectionate but impulsive and quarrelsome mother, the Duchess of Kent, the former Princess Victoria Mary Louisa, widow of Emich Karl, 2nd Prince zu Leiningen.
In 1826 Princess Victoria, along with her mother and eighteen-year-old half-sister Princess Feodore of Leiningen, made her first visit to Windsor to call on her uncle King George IV, who lived at Royal Lodge. ‘Give me your little paw’, he had said on their first meeting, and Victoria remembered him as ‘large and gouty but with a wonderful dignity and charm of manner’.5 The next day Victoria was out walking with her family from their apartments at Cumberland Lodge when they were overtaken by a royal phaeton in which rode the King with his sister Princess Mary, Duchess of Gloucester. ‘Pop her in’, he ordered, and to the Duchess of Kent’s no little anxiety – she feared that the monarch would kidnap her daughter – they sped away with Victoria for a visit to ‘the nicest part of Virginia Water’.6
Because of their straitened finances Princess Victoria’s early years at Kensington Palace were not luxurious. She remembered:
We lived in a very simple, plain manner; breakfast was at half-past eight, luncheon at half-past one, dinner at seven – to which I came generally (when it was no regular large dinner party) – eating my bread and milk out of a small silver basin. Tea was only allowed as a great treat in later years.7
Victoria was to remain a stickler for the exact timing of her meals when John Brown served her, but while the Princess enjoyed tea as a ‘treat’, that beverage was hardly seen at Crathienaird.
In all, the Brown family of Crathienaird increased to eleven children: nine boys and two girls. The eldest son, James, emigrated to Australia; on his return he became a shepherd on the Balmoral estate and married Helen Stewart (1824–1904). After John came Francis (b. 1828), who died aged three, and then Anne (1830–67). Charles (b. 1831), Margaret (b. 1834) and a second child named Francis (b. 1839) all died in the typhoid epidemic that swept through this part of Deeside in the winter of 1849. They were buried together at Crathie churchyard and John Brown raised a stone to them years later.8
Donald, the sixth child, was born on 9 September 1832. He went on to become a porter at Windsor Castle and Keeper of the Queen’s Lodge, Osborne. William, the eighth, was born on 18 March 1835 and was gifted the tenancy of the farm of Tomidhu by Queen Victoria; he married Elizabeth Paterson (1838–1900) in 1869 and died at Torridoes, Crathie, in 1906. Hugh Brown was born on 21 December 1838 and emigrated to New Zealand; on his return he became Keeper of Her Majesty’s Kennels at Windsor and Extra Highland Attendant after his brother John’s death. Hugh was succeeded in this position by his nephew William. Hugh Brown married Jessie McHardy (1840–1914) in 1863 and died at the East Approach Lodge, Balmoral, in 1896. Queen Victoria insisted that nothing be made of the fact that the main cause of his death was alcoholism.9 The last sibling of John Brown was born on 6 September 1841 and christened Archibald Anderson Brown; he became valet to Prince Leopold and thence Page of the Royal Presence. He died in 1912.10
> The Browns of Crathienaird had originated within the Highland clan grouping of Lamont (Gaelic, MacLaomainn). A clan of great antiquity, the Lamonts owned considerable parcels of territory in Argyllshire, but owing to the encroachment of the Campbells of Argyll and other clansmen, their territories were confined mainly to Cowal, that large district of Argyll which includes lands between Loch Fyne and the boundary with Perthshire; of this area John Lamont became ‘Bailie’ in 1456.11 At Toward Castle, in South Cowal, north-east of Rothesay, Sir John Lamont of Inveryne entertained Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1563.
During the seventeenth-century outbreaks of civil war in Scotland, the Campbell chiefs ravaged the lands of the Lamonts and destroyed their main bases at the castles of Toward and Ascog on the Isle of Bute, and in 1646 they treacherously massacred two hundred Lamont leaders at Dunoon. When Toward Castle was sacked the principal clan residence became Ardlamont, near the Kyles of Bute and Loch Fyne, and the dispersed clansfolk became connected by marriage to many titled families of Scotland. John Lamont, 19th Chief of the Clan Lamont, commanded the Gordon Highlanders at Corunna in 1809.
As the Lamont clansmen scattered from their foes, the rapacious Campbells of Loudoun, they adopted new disguising names, Black, White and Brown being popular. They settled in safe havens, such as those in south-west Scotland. John Brown’s forebears, though, are likely to have been among the clansmen who settled in the Highland area of Strathspey, that broad lower valley of the River Spey just the other side of the Cairngorm Mountains from Crathie. Some time in the early eighteenth century John Brown’s immediate forebears moved from Strathspey to become tenants of the Ogilvys, Earls of Airlie, who lived at Cortachy Castle, Angus. The Browns now farmed Ogilvy land in the neighbourhood of the old handweaving town of Kirriemuir.
The Ogilvys were descendants of the ancient Earls of Angus. They were Royalists and Jacobites who engaged actively in Scotland’s civil wars and the Jacobite Risings of 1715 and 1745. During the latter rising John Brown’s great-grandfather and his brothers joined the Forfarshire Regiment led by David Ogilvy, 5th Lord Airlie (the son of John, 4th Earl of Airlie), in support of the Jacobite leader Charles Edward Stewart. He had landed in Scotland in order to help win the throne of Great Britain from the Hanoverian succession for his father, Prince James Francis Edward Stewart (whom the Jacobites dubbed King James VIII & III). Consequently the Browns were with David Ogilvy at the Battle of Culloden in April 1746 when Prince Charles Edward Stewart’s cousin, Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, vanquished the Jacobite army. Along with the whole Clan Ogilvy, David Ogilvy was attained and fled to France; he would not return until he was pardoned in 1783.
As with hundreds of other clansmen who survived the slaughter at Culloden, the Browns returned to their tenancy in Angus to ‘lie low’. For years though, Hanoverian government troops harassed the clansmen, burning and pillaging their homes. The Browns, who suffered similar difficulties, decided to seek a more peaceful area in which to rebuild their shattered lives.
In the 1770s John Brown’s grandfather, Donald Brown (c. 1750–1827), who married Janet Shaw (c. 1751–1836) of Badenoch, left Angus and took the road north through the Capel Mounth Pass to take up a new tenancy at Rhinachat, a small part of the Monaltrie estates of the Farquharsons of Invercauld, an estate in the Dee Valley about 11⁄2 miles from Braemar.12 There they raised their family, which included six sons, one of whom, ‘Old’ John, was John Brown’s father. He became a prominent character at Crathie.13
Deriving its name from the Gaelic word Creathach (brushwood), Crathie lies on the main road from Braemar to Ballater and is situated about a mile from the modern Balmoral Castle.14 The hamlet of Crathie grew out of an early Scottish ecclesiastical site. In his historical notes the Revd Ronald Henderson Gunn Rudge, Minister of Crathie from 1964 to 1971, opined:
The story of the Christian Church in Crathie goes back through the long years to the misty records of the 6th century when the Celtic or Brithonic Saints, St Colin and St Monire, brought the Christian Gospel north into Deeside. A famous pool in the River Dee, near Balmoral Castle, is known as Polmanaire – “the pool of St Monire” – so called because in this pool the Saint of old is said to have baptised his Christian converts.
The earliest Chapels are reputed to have been erected at The Lebhall (on the north Deeside Road); at Balmore (in Aberarder Glen); and at the Mains of Abergeldie (on the south Deeside Road). In the 15th century a new Church was built beside the River Dee, where the ruins can still be seen in the old Churchyard. This was the centre of worship until 1804, when it was replaced by a larger, but austere, Church built on the site of the present Church – dedicated in 1895. It was in the 1804 Church that Queen Victoria [and the Brown family] worshipped during the greater part of Her Majesty’s residence at Balmoral Castle. The Queen laid the foundation stone of the new building on 11 September 1893, and two years later was present at its dedication.15
The area around Crathie is very hilly, with the principal peaks being Lochnagar, Cairntoul and Ben Macdhui. Their presence gave rise to the gossiping Lord Clarendon referring to John Brown, unkindly, as a ‘Child of the Mountains’.
When Old John Brown settled into his tenancy at Crathienaird, the area had already been substantially improved by the ‘model landlord’ Colonel Francis Farquharson, who himself had fought in the Jacobite Army.16 He introduced new agricultural methods, repaired old buildings and established new ones, built roads and bridges, and even developed the four mineral springs which had been known since the thirteenth century at Pannanich in the nearby united parish of Glenmuick, Tullich and Glengairn.17
The house at Crathienaird where John Brown was born has now vanished. In his day Crathienaird was a clachan (hamlet) of some eighteen heather-thatched houses built of mud and unhewn stone. Each was a two-roomed cottage built in the Highland style of ‘but and ben’; in some of the poorer households the inhabitants shared their dwelling with their cattle.18 Within, the floors were of hardened earth which became damp and muddy in winter. The large Brown family slept in a series of traditional ‘box beds’, which were curtained off or shut off with doors. The younger members of big families generally slept around the peat-burning hearth, wrapped in blankets or plaids. For light the house had small unopening windows with four to six panes of glass. Quite often, on leaving such a ‘bothy’ (house) for a new job, the family would take the windows with them as personal property. The focal point of the Brown’s main living area was the hearth, with its cooking pots supported on a ‘swee’ (a movable iron bracket) over the fire; a cauldron of water was kept permanently heated on a three-legged trivet. Light from the fire supplemented the oil-burning cruises (boat-shaped rush-wick lamps). In 1831, when John Brown was five years old, the family moved to larger accommodation at The Bush Farm, Crathie, where he spent his childhood days.19
Around this time the Duchess of Kent was giving attention to her daughter’s education. In 1824, when Victoria was five, she had been transferred from the care of her nurse Mrs Brock to her German governess Fräulein Louise Lehzen, whom King George IV had appointed a Hanoverian baroness in 1827. Yet it was now time for Victoria to move on from nursery stories to a proper education. Towards this end the duchess consulted Charles James Blomfield, Bishop of London, and John Kaye, Bishop of Lincoln, about the current state of the princess’s education and how it should be developed. The result was a recommendation for her to continue with the tutorship of the evangelistic clergyman Revd George Davys, whose languages and history lessons were now supplemented by a music teacher, a singing master, a dancing instructor and a drawing master.
Victoria was a quick if somewhat unwilling pupil, but she had a flair for languages and drawing. Her love of riding made her an accomplished horsewoman, and she terrified the ladies-in-waiting with fast gallops through Windsor Park. Victoria’s destiny, however, was beckoning: on Saturday 26 June 1830 King George IV died and was succeeded by his brother Prince William Henry, Duke of Clarence, as King William IV. In the sh
adow of the throne which was now destined to be hers, Princess Victoria developed a distinct character and temperament. As Arthur Benson and Viscount Esher were to remark:
She was high-spirited and wilful but devotedly affectionate, and almost typically feminine. She had a strong sense of duty and dignity, and strong personal prejudices. Confident, in a sense, as she was, she had the feminine instinct strongly developed of dependence upon some manly adviser. She was full of high spirits, and enjoyed excitement and life to the full. She liked the stir of London, was fond of dancing, or concerts, plays and operas, and devoted to open-air exercise.20
Herein were clues that were to make her an enthusiast for Scots outdoor pursuits and the devoted friend years later of the red-headed lad who ranged over the hills at Crathie. Yet there was more in her character that would bind her to John Brown. She hated change; she looked upon herself as a ‘deserted child’ (after her father’s death); she was blisteringly truthful, admitting to ‘fearless straight forwardness’, and Lord Melbourne was to comment that she was ‘the honestest person I have ever known’. Further she showed firm loyalty to friends; her trust once given was not withdrawn. And her ‘nervous shyness’ made her cling to the people she knew and liked; as she said herself: ‘I am terribly shy and nervous and always was so.’ These traits of truthfulness, honesty and loyalty were all recognisable too in John Brown’s developing character. Open-air activities, especially, were to be an important factor in John Brown’s upbringing, for his education had a much more practical aspect than Princess Victoria’s.
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