The basic design of the modern quick release (shown in Figure 2-7) still resembles the original. It’s made of a long rod with a lever-based cam mechanism on one end and a serrated edged nut on the other. When the nut begins to tighten and the lever is lifted, the cam clamps down on the wheel hub.
Make sure to clamp the lever as snugly as you can. Do not rotate the lever like a wing nut — that’s what the quick release replaced, and you won’t be able to get it tight enough to secure the wheel.
Figure 2-7: A quick release on a wheel makes a biker’s life much, much easier.
Working with quick releases takes a little practice, especially when you’re learning how to tighten the nut just enough so that there’s the right amount of play in the lever to enable it to tighten in the closed upright position.
Properly tightening quick-release hubs is important, because if they aren’t tight, they could come loose and the wheel could fall off. Today, most bicycles have front forks that utilize a secondary wheel-retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
The clip-on type is a part that the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
The integral type is molded, cast, or machined into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask the people at your local bike shop to explain the secondary retention device on your bike.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick-release adjustment.
Other Bike Parts to Keep in Mind
Earlier in this chapter, we cover important bike parts and how they work together as different systems to support the bike’s proper functioning. Here we want to take a moment to mention some other very critical bike parts or “systems” that are discussed in great detail in other chapters of this book:
Drivetrain: Considered the transmission of a bike, the drivetrain is the system for transferring power from the rider’s legs to the rear wheel. It includes the pedals, cranks, bottom bracket, chain, chainrings, and cogs. (See Chapter 13.)
Steering system: Consisting of the front fork, the handlebars, the stem, and the headset, the steering system enables you to balance and turn a bike. When you turn the handlebars, bearings within the headset allow the system to pivot within the frame’s head tube. (See Chapter 15.)
Suspension: Although a bike will absorb a certain amount of shock as you ride, a bike with a suspension system improves riding comfort and handling in difficult terrains. There are a variety of suspension types including those built into the forks, the stem, the rear part of the frame, and the seat post. (See Chapter 12.)
Brakes: Brakes (see Chapter 8) fall into one of three categories:
• Rim brakes have brake pads that rub against the wheel rim when the brakes levers are squeezed. A cable connects the brake lever to the brakes.
• Disk brakes operate on the hub. Heavier than rim brakes, they offer better performance in wet conditions. Some disk brakes use a hydraulic system, whereas others depend on cables.
• Hub brakes are similar to disk brakes except the brake pads are pushed outward against the inside of a cylindrical drum inside the hub. Included in this family are the good old coaster brakes.
Wheels: Usually consisting of an aluminum or steel rim, connected to a hub by spokes, the wheel is connected to the frame by either a quick-release mechanism or nuts threaded onto the axle. Some modern rims and wheels are made with carbon fiber and other high-tech materials. (See Chapter 7.)
Frame: The frame is what holds everything together. In one way or another, all parts are connected to the frame. A frame consists of a top tube, down tube, seat tube, head tube, seat stays, and chain stays. The geometry of a frame is important, because it greatly impacts the handling of a bike. Most issues with frames require professional care; in many cases, buying a new frame is easier than replacing a damaged one. (See Chapter 12.)
Chapter 3
Setting Up Shop: Repairing Your Bike at Home
In This Chapter
Finding out about basic and specialized bike tools
Getting clear on lubricants, degreasers, and cleaners
Setting up a workshop for your bike at home
Finding a bike stand that suits your needs
Working on your bike can be fun. In fact, you don’t know what fun is until you’re covered in more dirt and grime than your local auto mechanic and your significant other puts on gloves and changes clothes just to kiss you. Actually in most cases, the average bike-repair and -maintenance job won’t leave you looking like a grease monkey — and even if it does, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction gained from fixing your own bike.
Even if the part-time role of bike mechanic isn’t your dream job, there are many benefits to doing your own work:
You’ll be amazed at how much you’ll learn about how your bike works — things you never would have known just from riding it.
You’ll discover tricks for maintaining your bike so that repairs are kept to a minimum.
You’ll become so in tune with your bike that you’ll figure out ways to tweak it to give yourself a better ride.
When you break down, you’ll be able to diagnose the problem quicker than Lance Armstrong can put on a yellow jersey.
Even if your goals for maintaining and repairing your bike are slightly less ambitious, you’ll always have one of the best excuses for getting out of household chores — you’re busy working on the family’s bikes.
In this chapter, we fill you in on the tools you need to get started — and tell you about a few more tools useful for some advanced procedures. If you’re looking to take it to the next level, we explain how to set up your own bike workshop, which will be the envy of your neighbors — at least those who know that the Tour de France isn’t a trip through Bordeaux to sample the year’s Beaujolais.
To buy or not to buy
Buying bike tools is kind of like stocking your kitchen with cooking supplies. There are certain tools you’ll need no matter what. If you’re cooking, one of the tools you need is a spatula. But when you’re buying a spatula, you have lots of options. You can buy a cheap, plastic model, knowing that you’ll save some money — even though it may not be the most comfortable to hold and probably won’t last very long. Or you can invest a little in your purchase and buy a spatula that’s ergonomically designed for your hand and made of material guaranteed to last and covered by a long-term warranty.
The same is true for bike tools. A full spectrum of options is available, ranging from cheap, all-purpose tools (which you can adapt for use on a bike) or custom-made, high-quality products designed specifically for working on bikes.
Obviously, cost is a major consideration when buying tools. A number of companies — including Park Tool (www.parktool.com) and Pedro’s (www.pedros.com) — make high-quality bike tools. They offer products made of durable materials that are comfortable to use and designed to work with high-end bicycle components. There’s something to be said for investing in quality tools that will last — not the least of which is impressing your buddies.
If you’re on a budget, however, you can buy many brand-name tools on the cheap from bike-tool manufacturers such as Spin Doctor, Performance, and the extremely inexpensive Chinese-made Lifu tools, which cost from $30 to $200. If you need basic tools like screwdrivers, wrenches, or pliers, you can find them in the hardware section of stores like Wal-Mart.
Keep in mind that working on a bike doesn’t mean going to the toolbox, grabbing whatever looks handy, and giving it a try. Although some of the tools that you may have in your house today will serve you in certain jobs (such as a screwdriver, adjustable wrench, and pliers), a number of bike parts require specialized tools. To find and purchase these tools, you can visit the manufacturers’ Web sites and see where the products are sold, or visit your local bike shop.
Some tools are designed for particular jobs that you may perform rarely o
r never at all. For example, if you plan on doing a yearly overhaul of the bottom bracket, you’ll need specialized tools that can’t be used for any other purpose. Most of the year, they’ll be sitting around in your workspace gathering dust.
If you join a local bike club, you’ll find lots of opportunities to borrow the tools you need, saving you from having to buy tools that you won’t get much regular use out of.
Start by acquiring a basic set of tools. At a later date, if your goals become more ambitious, you can always add tools as needed.
Tools of the Trade
If you were tired of eating out every night and decided to learn how to cook, you’d want to make sure your kitchen was stocked with all the necessary cooking supplies. The same applies to bike repair and maintenance. If you’re interested in taking care of your bike, you need some basic tools in order to be successful. If you’re really serious about becoming a gourmet chef of the biking world, and want to handle advanced repairs and maintenance, you’ll need to buy some additional tools. First, we start with the basics.
Assembling your bike-tool starter kit
If you’re looking for a basic set of tools to allow you to start caring for your bike, everything in this section is what I recommend. (See Figure 3-1 for an illustration.) You probably already have some of these tools in your house; other tools you’ll be able to buy with very little cost and from a variety of sources.
Buying tools in sets will save you money as compared to buying them individually. Buying a tool sets will also give you more options when it comes to working on different parts of your bike.
Wrenches
When working on a bike, you’ll find yourself grabbing wrenches a lot. You have many options when it comes to wrenches, including open-ended, box, and combination (see Figure 3-1).
Many people keep an adjustable crescent wrench (refer to Figure 3-1) around the house because of its flexibility; you can use one on a bike, although you’re better off using non-adjustable wrenches when possible, because they tend to fit more snugly to a nut or bolt. If an adjustable wrench slips while tightening or loosening, it could cause damage to a nut or bolt — not to mention your knuckles.
When shopping for wrenches look for sizes 7mm to 17mm and every size in between to give you enough coverage for nuts and bolts on a bike.
Wrenches should fit securely over the bolt or nut before turning. If you aren’t sure which wrench to choose, select the wrench that fits the most tightly.
Figure 3-1: Wrenches come in many varieties.
Screwdrivers
What would a toolbox be without a trusty screwdriver or two? Both flathead and Phillips screwdrivers are necessary for working on a bike. You should have a range of sizes for the various screw heads found on a bike.
In general, the largest screwdriver that can fit a screw head is preferable.
Allen wrenches
Allen wrenches (also called hex keys) are the L-shaped tools used to tighten recessed bolts (see Figure 3-2). You use sizes 4, 5, and 6 the most.
Instead of buying a set of Allen wrenches, consider purchasing a mini folding tool — an indispensable and handy little tool that contains Allen wrenches and sometimes screwdrivers, wrenches, and other tools. It’s perfect for taking with you when you bike.
For Allen wrenches, sizes between 4 and 10 mm are usually sufficient.
An Allen wrench should be fully inserted into the socket before turning.
Figure 3-2: Recessed bolts have to be tightened with an Allen wrench.
Hammer
Sometimes you need a hammer to tap part of a bike, such as when loosening a seat post or removing the pin that holds a crank. A small hammer or plastic mallet will ensure that you can control the blows while avoiding doing damage to your bike.
Pliers
Pliers come in handy for pulling cables, although they shouldn’t be used for cutting cables. If you plan to cut your own cables, use a cable cutter designed for this activity.
Never use pliers to loosen or tighten nuts and/or bolts — they’ll damage the edges.
Tire tools
If you ride your bike often enough, eventually you’ll need to work on your tires — whether that means keeping them properly inflated or repairing them when you get a flat. Here are all the tire tools you need:
Pump (see Figure 3-3): If you haven’t already purchased one, you’ll want to buy a bike pump that matches your valves — either Presta or Schrader (see Chapter 6 for more on these types of valves). Some of the better-quality pumps will handle both types of valves.
If you have two or more bikes — with both types of valves — you can find a pump that is reversible, allowing you to switch back and forth between types of valves.
Smaller pumps designed to fit on a bicycle frame are convenient for taking with you on trips — although, they require more pumping to fill a tire, because they’re designed only for emergency repairs on the road and not for routine maintenance inflations. Having a larger pump at home or even an air compressor will make pumping tires a breeze.
Pressure gauge (see Figure 3-4): To take the guesswork out of filling your tires with air, you can use a pressure gauge. This will help you inflate tires to the proper pressure as indicated on the sidewalls.
Many higher-quality pumps have a built in gauge. With the gauge on the pump, you won’t have to search for it at the bottom of your toolbox every time. Plus, you don’t have to go back and forth, between pumping and checking pressure.
Patch kit: Sooner or later, you’ll have to patch a leak and unless you want to buy a new tube each time, you’ll want to keep a patch kit available at all times. A patch kid includes
• Patches
• An abrasive to rough up the surface of the tube to improve adhesiveness
• Glue
Figure 3-3: A tire pump is essential to maintaining proper pressure in your tires.
Figure 3-4: A pressure gauge eliminates all the guesswork.
Tire levers (see Figure 3-5): Tire levers are usually made of stiff plastic and are used to pry a tire off a wheel rim. You’ll probably need three levers, although on some mountain bikes the tires are loose enough that one or two may suffice.
Figure 3-5: Tire levers.
Lubricants, cleaners, and degreasers
Lubricants, cleaners, and degreasers aren’t technically “tools,” but they’re essential to properly repairing and maintaining your bike. With so many moving parts causing friction, a bike requires proper lubrication — including specially designed oils and greases — to reduce this friction and help prevent rust and corrosion.
The same qualities that give oil and grease their lubricating properties and enable them to stick to external parts are also what attracts dirt and grime. This means that, unlike with your car’s internal parts, you can’t wait 3,000 miles for an oil change. Regular care for your bike requires using cleaners to remove surface dirt and degreasers to cut through heaver grime that’s too strong for normal cleaners.
We cover lubricants, degreasers, and cleaners in the following sections.
Lubricants
If you’re an average rider, an all-purpose lubricating oil designed for bikes will be all that you need. You can use oil to lubricate pivot points such as brakes and derailleurs, as well as to keep the chain lubed.
Some riders use a lubrication specially designed for a chain. Manufacturers offer a number of quality lubes that are designed with different conditions in mind. A dry wax-based lube is best for dry, summer-like conditions. For the rainy season, a wet lube is the choice for many riders — although a wet lube is messy and attracts dirt and grime, it holds up well to water.
For a great description of use of chain lubes, see Urban Bikers’ Tricks & Tips, by Dave Glowacz (Wordspace Press).
Liquid lubricants can be applied from an aerosol can or a plastic squeeze bottle. We prefer to drip a lubricant out of a bottle because we can control the flow. Spray cans are much more difficult to control and can over-lubricate part
s.
When you need to loosen a seized part — such as a seat post that won’t budge — use a light, penetrating oil like WD-40.
WD-40 should not be used as a chain lubricant. Although WD-40 works wonders in getting tight parts moving again, it’s a solvent that will strip away existing lubrication. Although it may appear to be lubricating while it’s wet, as soon as it evaporates, your chain lubrication will be gone. Also keep WD-40 away from shifters, because it may damage the inner parts.
In addition to oil, grease is needed to support the internal moving parts of your bike, particularly those that depend on bearings to reduce friction. Bearings in the hubs, bottom brackets, headsets, and pedals are packed in grease. When these are overhauled, the grease needs to be replaced. Grease also protects the threads found on the same parts and lubricates and prevents rust from forming on the gear and brake inner wires
Grease is often sold in a tube. Be sure to keep the lid on at all times to prevent contamination.
Buy only grease designed for bikes. Grease for automobile bearings will be too heavy and thick and will gum up your bike.
Cleaners and degreasers
The simplest way to clean a bike is to rinse it off with water after a ride. This will dislodge any loose dirt, sand, or grit lodged in the bike’s parts.
Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies® Page 5