71 31 March 1793. Jameson 2003, pp. 231–2.
72 Fire marks are still seen on some houses today.
73 25 August 1778. Winstanley 1983, p. 66.
74 Matches had to be set alight with a flame from a tinderbox, candle or fire. They could not be ignited by ‘striking’ them on a rough surface like modern matches. They could only be used for transferring, not originating, a flame.
75 Beeswax candles were taxed at eight pence a pound, which was reduced to threepence in 1784, the same as spermaceti candles. Tallow was taxed at one penny a pound, increased by a halfpenny in 1784 but reduced back to a penny in 1792 (Dowell 1888, pp. 306–10).
76 Beeswax candles could not be made in a mould because they contracted on cooling and stuck to the mould. Instead, the hot beeswax was ladled over the wick, layer by layer, and the soft, warm candles were rolled to shape on a moistened surface, which was an expensive process (Eveleigh 2003).
77 Simond 1817, p. 150.
78 Morning Chronicle 24 October 1807.
79 White 1789, p. 198.
80 A rushlight holder was a simple clamp, commonly of wood or metal, that was set on a base that stood upright or was made to be fixed to a wall. All that was needed was a stable form of clamp to hold the rushlight at a 45-degree angle while it burned.
81 Williams 1933, p. 173.
82 Simond 1815, pp. 3–4.
83 The term ‘range’ was used from the seventeenth century for kitchen grates for cooking, while for fireplaces in rooms such as the parlour and bedroom, the word ‘grate’ was retained (Eveleigh 1983).
84 Morning Chronicle 24 October 1807. Spits were horizontal, but when the open fireplaces of the ranges became more narrow, with the inclusion of ovens and boilers either side, vertical spits were developed.
85 23 October 1782. Winstanley 1998, p. 71.
86 Glasse 1774, p. i.
87 Glasse 1774, pp. 3, 10, 101, 329.
88 Glasse 1774, p. 330.
89 Eden 1797c, p. 753.
90 Silliman 1810, p. 50.
91 6 November 1795. Jameson 2004, p. 220.
92 Eden 1797b, p. 267.
93 Published by Hannah Humphrey on 6 July 1795. Wright 1867, p. 496. Twelvepence was one shilling, and a crown was five shillings.
94 Carter 1845, p. 42. He was born on 5 July 1792.
95 Morning Chronicle 28 October 1807.
96 Middleton 1807, p. 419. This survey, done in 1806, updated a 1793 survey for the Board of Agriculture.
97 Middleton 1807, p. 423.
98 Middleton 1807, p. 424.
99 Middleton 1807, p. 422.
100 Middleton 1807, p. 424.
101 Letter written at Upholland 9 June 1808. Hall 1936, p. 91.
102 Andrews 1934, p. 359.
103 Montague 1785, p. 112.
104 28 January 1780. Winstanley 1984, p. 12.
105 From the contents list of Montague 1785, pp. 1–7.
106 13 March 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/4.
107 17 March 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/4.
108 19 March 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/4.
109 21 March 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/4.
110 18 June 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/4.
111 Simond 1815, pp. 154–5. Lawnmowers were not yet invented. Rollers were also used on paths and yards.
112 11 June 1794. Jameson 2004, p. 42.
113 Montague 1785, p. 139. Sack was then ‘a kind of sweet wine, now brought chiefly from the Canaries’.
114 White 1789, p. 298.
115 Diary entries for 2 and 4 April 1799. Jameson 2006, pp. 105–6.
116 White 1789, pp. 301–2. This was a freak heatwave caused by volcanic activity.
117 Leeds Intelligencer 20 October 1789.
118 Chapman 1932a, pp. 138–9. Letter of 14 September 1804.
119 David 1994, pp. 325–7.
120 Morning Post 7 October 1811.
121 Morning Post 7 September 1802.
122 Morning Post 7 September 1802. The houses no longer exist.
123 Gillett 1945, pp. 39–40.
124 20 October 1794. Jameson 2004, p. 86.
125 4 January 1798. Jameson 2006, p. 1.
126 Christie 1929, pp. 208–9.
127 25 August 1782. Andrews 1934, p. 82.
128 29 October 1781. Winstanley 1984, p. 175.
129 29 March 1777. Winstanley 1981, p. 119.
130 17 May 1780. Winstanley 1984, p. 42.
131 5 January 1781. Winstanley 1984, p. 102.
132 4 September 1809. Upton-Wilkinson archive (090904wwsp).
133 Moritz 1809, p. 12.
134 11 February 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/3.
135 29 May 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/6.
136 7 February 1806. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/25.
137 1 December 1790. Jameson 2001, p. 271.
138 8 June 1781. Winstanley 1984, p. 140.
139 28 May 1792. Jameson 2003, p. 141.
140 25 June 1792. Jameson 2003, p. 149.
141 Trusler 1784, p. 83. This was an updated, effectively plagiarised, version of the advice given in letters to his son by Lord Chesterfield.
142 23 December 1778. Winstanley 1983, p. 98.
143 Winstanley 1983, p. 98. Woodforde was a very sociable man, and such gatherings were undoubtedly enjoyable occasions.
5: FASHIONS AND FILTH
1 Raw cotton-wool was imported from many places, including South and North America, the West Indies, the Mediterranean, the Levant and India.
2 Pantaloons were based on the full-length version worn by the military, with instep stirrups, which Beau Brummell (1778–1840) made fashionable. See Kelly 2005.
3 28 December 1809. Upton-Wilkinson archive (091223wwsp).
4 14 January 1808. Hall 1936, p. 664.
5 Northampton Mercury 20 April 1778. The theft was on 11 April. A surviving pair of Admiral Lord Nelson’s stockings are marked with II, N and a coronet.
6 Letter written at Upholland, Lancashire, 14 January 1808. Hall 1936, p. 64.
7 Some men wore a coloured cravat over a white one, which later evolved into a white collar and bowtie.
8 9 June 1810. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/33.
9 Grose 1811 no pagination.
10 Written at Beacon’s Gutter, near Liverpool, 17 March 1809. Hall 1936, p. 159.
11 They persist today in dress or formal shirts for evening events.
12 George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer, allegedly burnt his tails in an accident before the fire and ordered his tailor to cut them off.
13 Pratt 1803, pp. 632–3.
14 We might today call this a full-length petticoat or slip.
15 21 May 1780. Winstanley 1984, p. 43.
16 Smith 1785, p. 54.
17 Smith 1785, p. 55.
18 Smith 1785, p. 55.
19 The term coat, skirt and petticoat were interchangeable.
20 The Universal Magazine 60, 1777, p. 379.
21 4 June 1805. Silliman 1810, p. 173.
22 Report of the Select Committee of the Court of Directors of the East India Company, upon the subject of the cotton manufacture of this country, 1793, quoted in Baines 1835, p. 334.
23 The Times 11 December 1799. These coats were named after the Frenchman Jean de Bry and had padded shoulders and narrow waists.
24 21 September 1803. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/17.
25 15 September 1813. Brabourne 1884b, p. 150.
26 Morning Chronicle 30 October 1807.
27 19 June 1799. Jameson 2006, p. 128. The term ‘bosom-friend’ was already in use for an intimate friend.
28 The term ‘ridicule’ was from the French and ‘reticule’ from the Latin meaning ‘net’ (as many of these bags were made by knotting).
29 9 January 1799. Brabourne 1884a, p. 195. Letter written at Steve
nton.
30 Eden 1797a, p. 558.
31 Eden 1797b, p. 639. This was the House of Industry at Shrewsbury.
32 Moritz 1809, p. 85.
33 13 August 1810. Letter written to Miss Bessy Winkley at Dove Nest. Hall 1936, p. 285.
34 Brabourne 1884a, p. 187.
35 7 November 1808. She was living at Beacon’s Gutter, near Liverpool. Hall 1936, p. 122.
36 Brabourne 1884a, p. 186. Letter written at Steventon on Christmas Day 1798.
37 27 March 1799. Jameson 2006, p. 102.
38 30 March 1799. Jameson 2006, p. 104.
39 30 November 1782. Winstanley 1998, p. 82.
40 5 August 1800. Darbishire 1958, p. 46.
41 Brabourne 1884a, p. 186. Letter of Christmas Day 1798, written at Steventon.
42 Brabourne 1884a, p. 138. Letter of 1 September 1796, written at Rowling in Kent.
43 16 April 1782. This was William Aldridge of Norwich. Winstanley 1998, p. 31.
44 Gentleman’s Magazine 55, December 1785, p. 938.
45 Lancaster Gazette 20 August 1808.
46 31 March 1784. Winstanley 1998, p. 226.
47 18 April 1811. Brabourne 1884b, pp. 84–5.
48 Silliman 1810, p. 283. This was in London in 1805.
49 Eden 1797a, p. 555.
50 Eden 1797a, p. 554.
51 5 March 1802. Darbishire 1958, p. 127.
52 Silliman 1810, p. 215.
53 4 May 1802, about 2 miles north of Grasmere. Darbishire 1958, p. 156.
54 Morning Post 8 December 1804.
55 Silliman 1810, pp. 215–16.
56 10 June 1784. Winstanley 1998, p. 249.
57 8 February 1802, in the Lake District. Darbishire 1958, p. 112.
58 10 February 1802. Jameson 2007, p. 107.
59 9 January 1806. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/25. In a pocket diary for 1799, fifteen-year-old Mary Filliter recorded the purchase of ‘pattens 1s 10d’ (Dorset History Centre D/FIL/F53).
60 Eden 1797b, p. 76.
61 9 November 1805. Romney 1984, p. 219.
62 This was in 1811. Simond 1817, p. 307.
63 This was in 1810. Simond 1815, p. 21.
64 Moritz 1809, p. 41.
65 Military cockades with colours other than black signified rebels or enemy troops. A plume of a different colour might be worn above a black cockade. Political cockades, worn mostly at election times, were of various colours.
66 6 August 1799. Moretonhampstead History Society manuscript of Treleaven’s diary.
67 Brabourne 1884a, p. 192.
68 The Mamelukes were Egyptian cavalry who had fought Napoleon’s troops in Egypt.
69 Kentish Gazette 15 May 1804.
70 It is often said that umbrellas were usually black in colour to disguise the filthy rain, which was heavily polluted with soot from coal fires, but there is no evidence that black umbrellas were popular at this date.
71 Pugh 1787, p. 221.
72 Macdonald 1790, pp. 382–3.
73 28 January 1787. Winstanley and Jameson 1999, p. 207.
74 29 June 1789. Jameson 2001, p. 160.
75 18 August 1788. Andrews 1934, p. 355.
76 This was June 1789. Andrews 1935, p. 24. The Tontine Inn was the main coaching inn at Sheffield, near today’s Dixon Lane. It was demolished in 1850.
77 28 June 1786. Winstanley and Jameson 1999, p. 145.
78 Chester Chronicle 20 March 1795.
79 5 October 1781. Winstanley 1984, p. 168.
80 14 April 1796. Jameson 2005, p. 28.
81 Sussex Advertiser 30 May 1814.
82 Women did not wear wigs, but at times their hair was styled and powdered to resemble wigs.
83 Brabourne 1884a, p. 174. Letter of 1 December 1798 written at Steventon.
84 17 February 1781. Winstanley 1984, p. 112.
85 15 October 1792. Jameson 2003, p. 182.
86 Nelly Weeton was writing from Beacon’s Gutter, near Liverpool, on 6 February 1809. Hall 1936, p. 149.
87 British Library Add MS 27828 fol. 119.
88 The National Archives ADM 101/102/3.
89 A US gallon is just over 8 pounds.
90 25 April 1800. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/5.
91 3 September 1801. Jameson 2007, p. 65.
92 4 September 1801. Jameson 2007, p. 65.
93 Darter 1888, pp. 58–9.
94 Simond 1817, pp. 363–4.
95 Bamford 1936, p. 18.
96 24 October 1804. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/17.
97 21 November 1795. Jameson 2004, p. 224.
98 27 August 1809. Upton-Wilkinson archive (090827wwsp).
99 10 June 1799. Jameson 2006, p. 125.
100 27 October 1798. Brabourne 1884a, pp. 160–1.
101 British Library Add MS 27827, fols 50–1. Francis Place was born in 1771.
102 Willan 1801, p 255.
103 15 October 1808. Hall 1936, pp. 115–16.
104 The Worshipful Company of Launderers website is www.launderers.co.uk.
105 Hampshire Chronicle 12 December 1791.
106 11 March 1801. Jameson 2007, p. 19.
107 The Wordsworths were then living at Dove Cottage. Darbishire 1958, p. 61.
108 25 March 1814. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/40.
109 Brabourne 1884a, p. 147. This was 18 September 1796, when staying at Rowling in Kent.
110 3 May 1806. Fremantle 1940, p. 258. This was during the trial of Henry Dundas (Lord Melville, 1742–1811). He had been impeached in Parliament on grounds of corruption in 1805. He had served as Treasurer of the Navy and First Lord of the Admiralty. This was of interest to Elizabeth Fremantle, who was married to a naval captain. She is also known by her maiden name Elizabeth (Betsey) Wynne, author of one of the Wynne diaries.
111 Willan 1801, p. 304.
112 20 November 1800. Chapman 1932a, p. 92. Letter to Cassandra, written at Steventon.
113 Montague 1785, p. 187.
114 Northampton Mercury 5 March 1803.
115 Northampton Mercury 10 June 1809.
116 Northampton Mercury 10 June 1809.
117 Hamilton 1813, p. 29.
118 Hamilton 1813, p. 24.
119 Simond 1815, p. 49. He was writing about London in 1810.
120 Simond 1815, p. 49.
121 Trial of Catherine Mason and Samuel Duck, April 1770, Old Bailey Proceedings online (t17700425-1).
122 Bath Chronicle 17 July 1777.
123 Wright 1960, p. 118.
124 Winstanley 1984, p. 57.
125 21 January 1814. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/40.
126 See the satirical print of the ladies’ communal facilities at Vauxhall Gardens in Gatrell 2006, p. 377.
127 Lancaster Gazette 20 August 1808.
128 Trial of Catherine Tewner, Old Bailey Proceedings Online, January 1815, t18150111-44. The incident occurred at Robinson’s Buildings, London.
129 Trial of Catherine Tewner, Old Bailey Proceedings Online, January 1815, t18150111-44.
130 Trial of Patrick Smith, Old Bailey Proceedings Online, October 1814, t18141026-3.
131 13 April 1810. Hall 1936, p. 252.
132 Rudder 1779, p. 395.
133 Foot 1794, p. 26.
134 Report from Select Committee on the Education of the Lower Orders in the Metropolis (London, 1816), p. 40. The evidence was given by Edward Wakefield, a philanthropist.
6: SERMONS AND SUPERSTITIONS
1 Note the incorrect spelling of the Austen surname. Somerset Archives and Local Studies DD/HY 7/2/5.
2&x00A0;&x00A0;9 January 1801. Brabourne 1884a p. 256.
3 This was 1811. Simond 1817, p. 175.
4 Letter to Cassandra Austen dated 21 January 1799. Brabourne 1884a p. 200. Cooper did take the living.
5 Jackson’s Oxford Journal 31 December 1774.
6 Woodforde is called ‘Parson’ because the publication of abridged diaries in the 1920s used that term. F
or an explanation of the different publications of his diaries, see Winstanley 1996, pp. 3–8.
7 Andrews 1935, p. 228. Byng was staying at the Chequers Inn, which is still in the High Street. The vicar was Jacob Mountain, who also held the living of St Andrew in Norwich and in 1793 became the first Anglican bishop of Quebec.
8&x00A0;&x00A0;6 June 1792. Andrews 1936, p. 43.
9 21 April 1774. Winstanley 1989, pp. 37–8.
10 New Exeter Journal or General Advertiser for Devon, Cornwall, Dorset and Somerset 30 April 1789. Stoke was also known as Stoke Damerel. The church was enlarged in 1751 to cater for the dockland population.
11 Simond 1815, pp. 174–5.
12 23 October 1804. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/19.
13 March 1805. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/21. When Sturges died, the new rector was a brother of the Duke of Wellington. A new St Luke’s Church was consecrated in 1824, and the old one became a chapel of ease, now known as the Old Church Chelsea. Sturges had been vicar of St Mary’s Church in Reading for over four decades.
14 25 December 1806. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/26. Holland refers to payment for the gown in mid-January 1807, calling it a Master of Arts gown.
15 15 September 1810. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/33.
16 Sussex Advertiser 19 January 1795.
17 31 March 1772. Winstanley 1988, p. 25.
18 Hall 1936, pp. 165–6. Written at Beacon’s Gutter, near Liverpool, 19 May 1809.
19 Christie 1929, p. 147.
20 2 December 1799. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/3.
21 November 1799. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/1.
22 3 December 1776. Winstanley 1981, p. 94.
23 Sunday 10 November 1776. Winstanley 1981, p. 87.
24 Moritz 1809, p. 70.
25 Moritz 1809, p. 71. The church was largely rebuilt in 1846.
26 Moritz 1809, p. 71.
27 Moritz 1809, pp. 71–2.
28 26 June 1791. Andrews 1935, p. 338.
29 13 June 1790. Andrews 1935, p. 175.
30 15 April 1804. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/18.
31 6 October 1783. Winstanley 1998, p. 176.
32 3 February 1797. Jameson 2005, p. 118. For all his years of learning Classical languages, Woodforde was unable to converse in French.
33 25 December 1782. Winstanley 1998, p. 91.
34 21 February 1816. Somerset Archives and Local Studies ABTL/2/41. Jack (John) Hunt’s cottage was near Over Stowey between the Crowcombe Road and Friarn Farm (information from David Worthy).
Jane Austen's England Page 43