• Dilly Devils: 2 tablespoons pickle relish; substitute dill pickle juice for vinegar in Classic Devils recipe. Garnish with a bit of relish and a green onion ring.
• Bleu Devils: 2 tablespoons bleu cheese; 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley. Garnish with a green onion ring.
A bouquet of garden proverbs:
Fine words butter no parsnips.
A book is a garden carried in the pocket.
Tickle it with a hoe, and it will laugh into a harvest. God does not subtract from the allotted span the hours spent hoeing.
JULY 31
In some years, today is National Cheesecake Day.
Cheesecake: Not Just for Dessert
Savory cheesecakes are delightfully versatile. Here’s one you can serve as a brunch entrée, an appetizer, or a late-night snack.
MARGE CLARK’S BASIL PESTO CHEESECAKE
Crust
1 tablespoon butter, softened
¼ cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs
Filling
2 8-ounce packages cream cheese, softened
1 cup ricotta cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
3 large eggs
½ cup pesto (recipe follows)
Chopped fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes for garnish
Rounds of French or Italian bread, toasted
Make the crust: Rub the butter over the bottom and halfway up sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Sprinkle the bread crumbs evenly over the bottom. Set pan aside.
Make the filling: Preheat oven to 350°. Combine cheeses in a food processor and process until very smooth. Add eggs and mix thoroughly. Pour half of cheese mixture into a small bowl. To the half remaining in the food processor, add pesto and mix well. Pour pesto-cheese mixture into prepared pan. Carefully pour plain mixture over pesto mixture and smooth to cover the entire surface. Bake 35-40 minutes, or until set in the center. Cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. To serve, loosen from sides of pan with a knife. Remove pan sides. Chop some fresh basil and sprinkle over the top, with sun-dried tomatoes. Invite guests to slice cheesecake and spread it on rounds of toasted bread. Adapted with permission from The Best of Thymes: An Herbal Cookbook
MARGE CLARK’S BEST BASIL PESTO
4 cups fresh green basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 cup pine nuts
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup butter, softened
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt
In food processor or blender, purée basil with pine nuts, oil, cheese, butter, garlic, and salt to taste. Place in a glass jar. Pour a thin layer of olive oil over top. Screw on lid and refrigerate. When ready to use, stir the olive oil into the pesto.
More reading from Marge Clark (1934-1999):
It’s About Thyme, 1988
Christmas at Oak Hill Farm, 1994
The Best of Thymes, 1997
AUGUST 1
Today is the Celtic festival of Lughnasadh (pronounced loo-na-sa), anglicized as “Lammas.” It is the third of four seasonal cross-quarter days. Others: Imbolc (February 1), Beltane (May 1), and Samhain (November 1).
The ancient mid-summer celebration of Lammas (Old English for “loaf mass”) consecrated the first loaves of bread baked from the new harvest. In honor of Lammas, I planned to teach a class on herbal breads.
—ROSEMARY REMEMBERED: A CHINA BAYLES MYSTERY
The Lammas Loaf
A braided or twisted bread is traditional for Lammas celebrations. China makes hers with herbs fresh from the garden. If you’re using dried herbs, use half of the amount suggested for fresh herbs.
CHINA’S BRAIDED HERB LOAF
1 envelope active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup warm water
2 tablespoons melted butter, divided
2½ to 3 cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano
2 teaspoons poppy seeds
In a large bowl, sprinkle yeast and sugar over ¼ cup warm water. Stir to dissolve. Add 1 cup water and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Mix 2½ cups flour with salt and chives. Stir into the yeast mixture, adding a half-cup at a time, to form a slightly sticky dough. Add the additional ½ cup flour only if necessary. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (5-6 minutes). Spray a large bowl with cooking oil. Place the dough in the bowl and turn to coat. Cover with clean, damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 90 minutes. Punch dough down. Divide into thirds. Into each third, knead a single herb: thyme in one, rosemary in the second, thyme in the third. Roll dough into three 20-inch ropes. Arrange ropes on a greased cookie sheet, side by side. Starting at the middle, braid toward each end, pressing together at the ends. Cover and let rise 45-50 minutes, until doubled. Brush with remaining butter and sprinkle poppy seeds over braid. Bake 25-30 minutes, until golden. Cool on a rack 30 minutes. Serve hot, giving thanks for the great joy of eating nutritious fresh bread! (Hint: You might want to bake two of these beautiful herb bread braids; National Friendship Day is coming soon.)
Read more about Lammas and other holidays: Celebrate the Earth: A Year of Holidays in the Pagan Tradition, by Laurie Cabot
AUGUST 2
National Friendship Day is celebrated on the first Sunday in August.
Friendship: Ivy. Denotes something true and lasting, and not to be changed by the beating of the winter winds.
—ROBERT TYAS, THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS, OR FLORAL
EMBLEMS OF THOUGHTS, FEELINGS, AND SENTIMENTS, 1869
Friendship, Herbs, and Flowers
We can guess just how much friendship meant to the Victorians by glancing through the various herbs and flowers that were used to describe and define it.
• Friendship—acacia, acacia rose, balsam, cedar, ivy, marigold, yellow rose,
• Early and sincere friendship—periwinkle, honeysuckle
• True friendship—oak-leaf scented geranium
• Unchanging friendship—arborvitae
• Warm friendship—pine
• “I’m thinking of an absent friend.”—zinnia
• “A great deal is to be gained by good company.”—rose in a tuft of grass
• “I rejoice in your friendship.”—yellow rose
• “I will always be a true friend.”—azalea
• “I will be your friend in adversity.”—snowdrop
• “My time with you is a pleasure.”—lemon thyme
• “Friendship warms old hearts.”—chervil
• “You are the light of my life.”—feverfew
FRIENDSHIP GIFTS
On this Friendship Day, your friends will appreciate knowing how much they have meant to you. Send them a card or a note with a small friendship gift:
• a packet of herb seeds or dried herbs from your garden (see August 3)
• a tussie-mussie (June 6)
• a jar of herb jelly (August 8)
• a passalong plant (July 27)
• a bottle of floral vinegar (March 13)
• a copy of An Unthymely Death & Other Garden Mysteries (China’s short story collection, full of herb lore, crafts, and recipes)
Read more about the language of flowers:
The Meaning of Flowers, by Claire Powell
The Common Rosemary is so well knowne through all our Land, being in every womans garden, that it were sufficient but to name it as an ornament among other sweete herbes and flowers in our Garden . . . Inwardly for the head and heart; outwardly for the sinewes and joynts: for civill uses, as all doe knowe, at weddings, funerals, etc. to bestow among friends.
—JOHN PARKINSON, A GARDEN OF PLEASANT FLOWERS, 1629
AUGUST 3
Gathering and drying home-grown herbs is one of the great pleasures o
f herb gardening. It is rewarding to use your own fresh seasonings, and if you dry them, you will doubly appreciate each savory leaf.
—ADELMA GRENIER SIMMONS, HERB GARDENING
IN FIVE SEASONS
Your Herbal Harvest: Part I
You’ve probably already begun harvesting and using the herbs in your garden. If you haven’t, plan now what you’re going to do—above all, don’t wait until the day before your first freeze to gather and preserve your herbs!
You can begin harvesting your herbs for daily use when the plant has enough foliage to ensure continued growth. Successive harvests throughout the season encourage bushy plants with stronger leaf growth, so plan to cut back your plants and preserve your harvest frequently.
Harvest in the morning, after the dew dries but before the temperature climbs, to ensure that you’ve caught the plant when its essential oils are strongest. Here are some things to remember:
• Herbs are at their best when they’re fresh-picked. For daily use, pick just what you need. Wrap herbs in a damp paper towel and put them in a tightly closed plastic bag in the refrigerator.
• Long-stemmed herbs (thyme, rosemary, oregano, savory, dill, fennel) can be kept on the kitchen counter for a few days. Strip lower leaves for immediate use and put the stems in a narrow-necked vase filled with water, out of the sun.
• Herbs produce their most intense oil concentration and flavor after the flower buds appear but before they open. Harvest at this time for most uses. Blooming plants such as basil and oregano may still be suitable for vinegars, however.
• Harvest annual herbs until frost, making as many successive harvests as possible without damaging the plant. Don’t cut too near the ground, for lower foliage is necessary for strong, continuing growth. At the end of the season, harvest the entire plant.
• Harvest perennial herbs until about one month before the frost date. Late pruning encourages tender growth that may be killed by the frost, and plants need the regrowth to see them through the winter.
• Harvest tarragon or lavender flowers in early summer, then cut the plants to half their height to encourage fall flowering.
• Harvest herb seeds (mustard, fennel) as the seed pods darken and dry, but before they burst. Secure a paper bag over the seed head to complete ripening, then cut the stem and hang the bag for further drying.
• Harvest herb roots (bloodroot, chicory, ginseng, goldenseal, horseradish) after the foliage fades.
AUGUST 4
Your Herbal Harvest: Part II
For centuries, drying was the only means of preserving the herbal harvest. It still remains a reliable way of keeping herbs on hand through the winter months. Now, however, we have other means available. Here are options:
• Freezing. This method best preserves flavor. Rinse the herbs and chop coarsely. Place about one or two teaspoons in each ice cube tray compartment, cover with chicken or vegetable stock, olive oil, or plain water, and freeze. Transfer frozen cubes to plastic bags. Alternatively, spread herbs loosely on a cookie sheet and freeze. Transfer frozen herbs into a plastic bag and seal. Thawed herbs are suitable for cooking.
• Air Drying. Remove dead or damaged foliage. Rinse only if necessary and shake. Spread out to dry until surface moisture has evaporated. Make small bundles, secure the stems with twine or twist ties, and hang in a warm, dry, shaded place, allowing for good air circulation. Alternatively, spread herbs on window screens resting on sawhorses or chair backs. Stir often to ensure even drying. When leaves are crumbly-dry, separate from the stems without crushing. Store in glass or plastic bottles in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, moisture, and heat.
• Drying with Heat. Air drying (which retains better flavor and color) may be difficult in some high-humidity situations. Your food dehydrator does a good job of drying herbs; follow the manufacturer’s directions. For oven drying, spread the herbs on cookie sheets and dry with the pilot light, or at the lowest possible temperature setting. For microwave drying, layer clean, dry leaves between dry paper towels and microwave on high power for 1 to 2 minutes. Cool. If the leaves are not brittle, microwave for 30 seconds and retest. Repeat if necessary.
Read more about harvesting the herbs in your garden:
The Rodale Herb Book, edited by William H. Hylton
Gather Herbs in the Full to keep dry; they keep and retain their vertue and sweet smell, provided you take the same care as you do in Hay, that you expose them not in too thin, but competent Heaps, which you may turn and move till they be reasonable dry, not brittle; and the sooner it be dispatch’d, the better. For there is very great difference in the Vertue of Plants, according as they are dried.
—JOHN EVELYN, ELYSIUM BRITANNICUM, 1660
AUGUST 5
According to some, the Celtic month of the Hazel Tree begins today (August 5-September 1).
I went out to the hazelwood,
Because a fire was in my head . . .
—W. B. YEATS, THE SONG OF WANDERING AENGUS
The Sacred Hazel
The hazel tree (Corylus avellana) was revered as a sacred tree, the Celtic tree of knowledge, growing at the heart of the Otherworld, over the Well of Wisdom. The hazel was associated with poetry and magic, and those who ate the nuts might be rewarded with poetic, prophetic, and divinatory power. (Or perhaps it was the highly intoxicating hazel-mead, frequently mentioned in early Irish literature, that did it.)
THE MAGICAL HAZEL
Hazel’s magic was usually connected with its divinatory powers. Druid priests wielded hazel rods, and dowsers preferred forked hazel sticks to indicate where underground water might be found. As late as the nineteenth century in the south of England, young brides were given a bundle of hazel sticks to ensure fertility, and a fine show of catkins in the spring predicted a fine crop of babies: “A plenty of catkins, a plenty of prams.”
Hazel was considered a protective herb. A wattle fence made of hazel kept witches out. Cattle were driven through the smoke of Midsummer Night’s hazel bonfires, and hazel wands passed through the flames were used as protection against disease and witches’ spells. In East Anglia, hazel wands were gathered on Palm Sunday (see March 27) and blessed for protection the rest of the year. In some places, however, the hazel was thought to bring bad luck. Gathering hazelnuts on Sunday, for instance, would attract the devil’s attention. In one ballad, a “foolish young maid” went nutting on Sunday, encountered a “Gentleman all in black who laid her on her back” (no gentleman, he), with the predictable outcome: a babe with horns and a tail.
THE USEFUL HAZEL
Only a few medicinal uses of hazel are recorded: the nuts, mixed with honey, were used to treat coughs; mixed with pepper, they cleared the head. The wood itself, however, found many uses. The tree was coppiced to produce pliable wands for basket-making, hoops and hurdles, wattles and hedge-stakes, fishing rods and walking sticks. Like willow, hazel was used to make light, one-man boats called coracles and temporary woodland shelters.
Read more about the folklore of hazel:
The Oxford Dictionary of Plant-Lore, by Roy Vickery
The sun shines on both sides of the hedge.
—TRADITIONAL
AUGUST 6
The Shakers arrived in New York Harbor on this day in 1774, on a ship called Mariah.
Behold the Flowers that deck the Field,
The Gentle breeze perfuming,
and Tender Herbs their Fragrance Yield
Are Health and Life Diffusing
—HARVARD SHAKER COMMUNITY HERB CATALOG, 1843
Shaker Medicinal Herbs
The Shakers were the among the first commercial purveyors of herb seeds and dried herbs in America. At first, they gathered the plants in the areas where they settled—eleven Shaker communities had been established in the northeastern states by 1800—but they quickly began to exploit the potential of the pharmaceutical market. Even as late as 1889, when the industry was waning, the community in Enfield, New Hampshire, reported shipping some 44,00
0 pounds of dried dock root, in one season, to a single pharmaceutical firm.
Here are five of the herbs offered in the Shakers’ 1837 catalog, with their descriptions:
• Bugle (Lycopus virginicus). In spitting of blood and similar diseases, it is, perhaps, the best remedy known. It is a sedative, and tonic, and appears to equalize the circulation of the blood.
• Button Snake-Root (Liatris spicata). A powerful diuretic.
• Golden Seal (Hydrastis canadensis) Tonic and gently laxative. Promotes the biliary [gallbladder] secretions and removes jaundice.
• Gravel Plant (Epigaea repens) Diuretic. . . . Has often cured where the catheter had to be habitually used.
China Bayles' Book of Days Page 31