AN UNTHYMELY DEATH
Cheese and Herb Treats
If you’re serving gourmet treats for your holiday get-togethers, be sure to include Janet’s basil bocconcini. (Janet? She cooks for China and Ruby at their tearoom.) There are lots of ways to experiment with cheeses marinated in herbed oil. You might want to substitute other flavored vinegars; add sage, savory, rosemary, peppercorns or dill; or add small button mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, and ripe olives.
JANET’S BASIL BOCCONCINI
½ pound baby bocconcini (substitute cubed mozzarella
cheese, if you can’t find the balls)
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons basil vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 whole garlic cloves
3 tablespoons fresh chopped basil, or 1½ tablespoons
dried
Mix together the oil, vinegar, lemon juice, pepper flakes, garlic, and basil. Pour over cheese and marinate for at least 24 hours. Serve at room temperature, with toothpicks. Makes about 24. Refrigerate leftovers, if any.
Garden Basil, if stroked, leaves a grateful smell on the hand, and the author insinuates that it receives fresh life from being touched by a fair lady.
—MAVOR’S 1812 EDITION OF THOMAS TUSSER’S
FIVE HUNDRED POINTS OF GOOD HUSBANDRY
DECEMBER 10
Here is a pomander rare
A ball of spice to scent the air.
Before its fragrance moths do flee
Hang it high, then, fortune come to thee.
—ADELMA GRENIER SIMMONS
Pomanders
My three children are grown now, but I have pleasant memories of the herbal pomanders we made together during the holidays—a “must” present for each of their grandmothers.
The word pomander comes from the Old French pome d’embre, or apple of amber, and referred to the aromatic mixture of gums and resins that was enclosed in a bag or perforated metal case and carried or worn as a protection against odor and infection. As time went on, pomanders became decorative and were worn as jewelry; later still, they were made of fruit, scented and preserved with cloves. They were no longer worn, but tucked into clothes presses and drawers to repel moths.
An easy-for-kids-to-make pomander starts with foam balls, oakmoss, a spice potpourri (made of whole allspice, cinnamon chips, sandalwood slivers, star anise, cloves), cinnamon oil, and white glue. Place the oakmoss on a plate. Cover the ball with glue and roll it in the oakmoss until it’s completely covered. Let dry, then glue pieces of spice potpourri onto the ball, starting with the largest pieces and filling in with the smaller ones. Dust with powdered cloves and dot with a few drops of cinnamon oil. Hang with a ribbon loop.
To make the real thing, poke holes in an apple, orange, or other citrus fruit with a skewer or a fork, piercing to cover the entire fruit randomly or in a spiral or other pattern. Push whole cloves into the holes. When the fruit is completely studded (the closer the better—the cloves should be no farther than ¼-inch apart), put it in a small paper bag with a mixture of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg and shake gently, being careful not to dislodge any cloves. Dry in the oven (pilot light only) overnight, then repeat the paper-bag treatment daily for the next five or six days. Display your pomanders in a basket, or hang in a sling of criss-crossed raffia. When the holidays are over, tuck them into your dresser drawers.
Scents were more perpetually to be obtained by carrying a pomander, which was originally an orange stuffed with spices, and thought also to be good against infection. Cardinal Wolsey is described as carrying a “very fair orange, whereof the meat or substance was taken out and filled up again with part of a sponge whereon was vinegar, and other confection against the pestilential airs . . .”
—LADY ROSALIND NORTHCOTE, THE BOOK OF HERB LORE
DECEMBER 11
The theme garden for December: A Windowsill Garden.
Herbs with a View
Our Texas winters are relatively mild, thank goodness. The winter wind blows hard from the north, and we usually have a string of days with below-freezing temperatures, but snow is a rare thing. Many of my herbs are happy to stay outdoors all winter, but some of the plants like to spend the frosty months inside, where it’s warm. If you live in a frostier climate, where the north wind brings plenty of snow, you’ll no doubt have quite a few herbs to bring in.
On south-facing windowsills and on shelves and racks in the area I use as a greenhouse, I keep scented geraniums (rose, lemon, lime, cinnamon, Earl Grey), aloe, lemon balm, pineapple sage, and lemongrass. I like to grow annual herbs and some biennials in windowsill pots, too: dill (I’m partial to “Fernleaf,” because of its small size), cilantro, basil, chervil, parsley. And I enjoy seeding a few perennial herbs in pots—fennel, borage, catnip—so that they’re ready for their great garden escape when the weather warms up. I fill the plant saucers with pebbles so that there’s some humidity in the air during these indoor months, mist those that seem to want a shower, and try not to overwater.
None of this is very organized or tidy, of course. There’s always a hurly-burly rush on that awful night when the forecast warns of the first hard freeze, and I scurry around, hunting for trays and saucers. But things sort themselves out, and both the herbs and I enjoy the time we spend under the same roof. What’s more, when I’m cooking, they’re handy for a pinch of this and a leaf of that—and when I’m tired, I don’t have to go far for a refreshing sniff.
For elegant indoor gardening ideas:
Tabletop Gardens: Create 40 Intimate Gardens for the Home, No Matter What the Season, by Rosemary McCreary
As no Plant can live without Air, a Gardener must now act with Judgment in helping his Green House Plants; for the Air Abroad is now so sharp, that was it to be lett into the House immediately upon the Plants, it would pinch many of them to Death . . .
—RICHARD BRADLEY, THE GENTLEMAN AND GARDENER’S
KALENDAR, 1718
DECEMBER 12
Ma in her kerchief and I in my cap
Had just settled down for a long winter’s nap . . .
—“ ’TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS”
Winter-Thyme Dreams
Looking at my holiday list (how did it get so long?), I see that I need a few more little gifts. Dream pillows—fun to design, easy to sew, soothing for a long winter’s nap—make a unique and interesting present. And I can use up some of those dried herbs I harvested last summer.
For centuries, people believed that herbs placed under the pillow protected against evil, foretold the future, and attracted love. Other herbs simply brought peaceful rest and sweet dreams. The dried material was often stuffed into little pillows and tucked beneath the sleeping pillow.
But instead of ordinary rectangular pillows, I’m being creative. I’ve raided my fabric stash for pieces of felt, cotton, satin, and silk. With right sides together, I’ll cut two layers of different fabrics into various shapes: a crescent moon, a circle, a heart. Then I’ll seam the edges, leaving a narrow opening. I can stuff six or seven small pillows with this dreamy mix of calming, relaxing herbs:
• 4 cups rosebuds and petals (for sweet dreams)
• 1 cup dried chamomile flowers (for calm dreams)
• 1 cup dried mugwort (to help you remember your dreams)
• 1 cup dried lavender flowers (in case you have a headache)
• 1 cup dried thyme (to help you dream of faery folk)
Once the pillow is stuffed, I’ll turn in the open seam and whip it. And for more fun, I’ll add lace, ribbons, and other fine fripperies.
Need more ideas? Try these aromatic herbs:
• Clove, for romantic dreams
• Dill, to go to sleep quickly
• Lemongrass, for dreams of the future
• Mints, for vivid dreams
• Peppermint, for romantic dreams
• Rosemary, for protection from nightmares
More Reading:
DECEMBER 13
In Scandinavia, today is St. Lucia’s Day, celebrated as a Festival of Lights.
Santa Lucia, thy light is glowing
Through darkest winter night, comfort bestowing.
Dreams float on dreams tonight,
Comes then the morning light,
Santa Lucia, Santa Lucia.
—TRADITIONAL SONG
Celebrating Light in the Darkness
St. Lucia, whose name means “light,” is honored at the darkest time of the year. Throughout northern Europe, this special day marks the beginning of Christmas celebrations, feasting, and merriment. Traditionally, the oldest daughter of the family, wearing a coronet of pine sprigs decorated with five lighted candles, wakened her parents with a breakfast of saffron buns (Saffronsbrod) and coffee. The golden saffron was symbolic of sunshine and light.
SAFFRONSBROD
¼ cup hot water
¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads
½ cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons dry yeast
3 to 3¼ cups flour
Glaze:
1 egg white, beaten lightly with 1 teaspoon water; sugar
Soften the saffron in the hot water (about 10 minutes). In a mixing bowl, blend the saffron water, milk, sugar, butter, salt, egg, and yeast. Add 2 cups of the flour and mix well, then add enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough. Knead the dough (15 minutes by hand, 12 minutes in an electric mixer), then set it aside to rise until light and puffy (about 2 hours). Punch the dough down, and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Divide into 16 pieces: divide into fourths, divide each fourth into fourths. Shape each piece into a ball. Place the balls fairly close together (but not touching) in a 9 × 13-inch pan, cover them, and let rise for 1½ hours, or until they’re puffy. Glaze the buns with the mixture of beaten egg white and water, then sprinkle them heavily with sugar. Bake them in a preheated 375° oven for 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Yield: 16 buns.
Learn more about Scandinavian culinary custom:
Scandinavian Feasts: Celebrating Traditions throughout the Year, by Beatrice A. Ojakangas
Lucy light, Lucy light,
The shortest day and the longest night.
—TRADITIONAL SAYING
DECEMBER 14
At Thyme and Seasons, I buy mistletoe from a local supplier and Laurel and I package it in plastic bags tied with festive holiday ribbons. During the Christmas season, we process hundreds of mail and telephone and email orders for the herb, which grows in basketball-sized clumps on the hackberry and pecan trees in the wooded hills to the west of Pecan Springs. Once you’ve seen those fresh yellow-green leaves and translucent berries, glowing like huge pearls, you can understand why our mistletoe is so popular.
—MISTLETOE MAN: A CHINA BAYLES MYSTERY
Mistletoe Man: About China’s Books
As China says, mistletoe is one of her best-selling herbal products, and the mysterious disappearance of her mistletoe supplier in the middle of the holiday season spells serious trouble. And when she and Ruby team up to find out what happened to him—well, it’s the usual mix of China’s serious detective work and Ruby’s high-jinks, made even more poignant when Ruby reveals the painful secret she’s been keeping. Everything works out for the best, though, and the book ends with one of my favorite scenes, in which a bare-breasted, body-painted Ruby confronts a cosmetics saleswoman. And throughout, there’s plenty of interesting information about mistletoe, everyone’s favorite Christmas herb.
North American mistletoe (Phoradendron tomentosum ) does not belong to the same genus as the European mistletoe (Viscum album), but the legends and lore of the European plant long ago made their way to America. In fact, this evergreen herb that seems to miraculously grow in trees has spread its magic across many different cultures. Here’s some fascinating mistletoe information I gathered when I was doing research for the mystery:
• Norwegian peasants hung mistletoe from the rafters of their homes to protect against lightning.
• In Wales, mistletoe gathered on Midsummer Eve was placed under the pillow at Yule-tide to induce prophetic dreams.
• In northern Europe, mistletoe was thought to act as a master key that would open any lock.
• Swedish farmers hung mistletoe in the horse’s stall and the cow’s crib, to protect against evil trolls. They also used the wood to make divining rods.
• In the south of France, mistletoe was thought to be an antidote to all poisons.
• Everywhere, people enjoy kissing under the mistletoe
• European mistletoe (Viscum album) has been used for millennia for a variety of illnesses, including epilepsy, heart disease, rheumatism, anxiety, exhaustion, asthma, diarrhea, and hypertension. Claims for its efficacy as a cancer treatment have not yet been fully evaluated.
• In the Victorian language of flowers, mistletoe symbolized “I overcome everything”; I surmount difficulties”; “I rise above all.”
DECEMBER 15
In some years, today is the beginning of Hanukkah, the Jewish Feast of Lights.
Celebrating the Return of the Light
The eight-day celebration of Hanukkah opens with the ritual lighting of the Menorah, a candelabrum with eight branches. According to Hebrew historians, a single flask of sanctified olive oil—just enough for one day’s lighting—was discovered when the Temple was reclaimed after a period of pagan defilement. Miraculously, this small amount of sacred oil kept the Menorah burning for eight full days. Chanukah, a time of rededication, is celebrated with festive foods fried in oil: fritters, potato pancakes, or latke, and doughnuts. Every family has its favorite traditional foods, the recipes often handed down through the generations.
My favorite potato pancake recipe comes from my mother, who learned to make them during the Depression when she worked for the Schwartzes, a family of Polish Jews in Chicago. My own version leaves the potatoes unpeeled (Mom and Mrs. Schwartz would be horrified!) and adds dried and fresh herbs.
MOM’S POTATO PANCAKES
1 pound small red potatoes, scrubbed (really well, Mom)
and unpeeled tops of four green onions, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 teaspoons fresh or 1 teaspoon dried herbs: oregano,
thyme, or savory
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt or Savory Blend (August 29)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
oil for frying
Heat ½ inch of oil over medium heat in heavy skillet to approximately 350°. Grate potatoes. In a large glass bowl, mix potatoes and other ingredients and let stand until potatoes soften and become watery (about 10 minutes). Drain most of the liquid. Make small round balls about the size of golf balls. Fry 7-8 at a time, until golden brown (about 5-6 minutes). Turn and press down lightly. Fry 5 minutes longer, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve with sour cream.
More Jewish foods:
The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking, by Phyllis and Miriyam Glazer
DECEMBER 16
Today is the birthday of Adelma Grenier Simmons, herbalist, author, and founder of Caprilands Herb Farm.
Happy is the herb gardener through all the seasons and the years.
—ADELMA GRENIER SIMMONS (1904-1997)
Adelma Grenier Simmons: Herbalist Extraordinaire
In 1964, Adelma Simmons’ book Herb Gardening in Five Seasons broke a long silence. There had been no herb books of any consequence written since 1942, when Rosetta Clarkson’s Herbs: Their Culture and Uses was published. The war had intervened, of course, and after the war America was captivated by fast foods and modern technology, and the “little green pl
ants” didn’t stand much of a chance. But that didn’t deter Adelma, who was pursuing her dream. In 1929, her family had bought a farm in Coventry, Connecticut, and over the years until her death in 1997, Adelma made it into an herbal showplace—“America’s Herbal Homestead,” it is sometimes called. Caprilands became a mecca for herb enthusiasts.
Adelma was not only a creative, inspiring herbalist, however; she was a writer, as well, as her nearly two dozen titles suggest. Some of these are informative pamphlets she published and sold in her shop; a few of these have become collectors’ items. Others—Herb Gardening in Five Seasons, for instance—are important additions to any herb bookshelf. Everyone who visited Caprilands and saw an “herbal lifestyle” first-hand wanted to taste her food and take away some of her books, as well as the dried herbs, wreaths, and craft items sold in the shop. And everyone took away with them the powerful impression of a woman with tremendous energy and a dedicated commitment to a calling: teaching modern Americans that there is something profoundly worthwhile in the small green plants under our feet.
BISHOP’S WINE FROM CAPRILANDS
2 quarts sweet cider
4 sticks cinnamon
6 cloves
China Bayles' Book of Days Page 49