Clove 78, 79
Cocks, Richard 80
Connery, Sean 39
Le Cordon Bleu, Paris 243, 248
Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 251, 252–3, 255
Cowan, Jessie Roberta ‘Rita’ 313, 317
Les Créations des Narisawa restaurant, Tokyo 172
Crosse & Blackwell 231
Curry King 224–6
curry rice 223–33
dai dai 145
Dai Nippon Kaju (Great Japanese Juice Company) 313
Daizenji temple, Koshu 170
Dancyu magazine, 116
dashi 118
De Niro, Robert 51
Decanter magazine 175
Dejima, Nagasaki 67, 68, 69–72, 88, 269
DiCaprio, Leonardo 320
Dogs and Demons: The Fall of Modern Japan (Kerr) 111
DOM restaurant, São Paulo 169
donburi 139–40
Drew-Baker, Kathleen 56–8
driving in Japan 325–6
Dunlop, Fuchsia 146
Dutch East India Company 71, 88 see also Netherlands
eagles 327
earthquake (11 March 2011) 3, 188, 247
East India Company, British 78, 80
East India Company, Dutch 71, 88
Ebihara, Tsutomu 94–7
Echinoderm Aquaculture (Brown and Eddy) 305
Eddy, Steve 305
Edo (modern-day Tokyo) 79, 94, 167, 243
Edo-mae sushi 210, 217
eels 97–101, 110, 162
88 Temple Route, Shikoku 150
Eisai, Myoan 198–200
El Bulli restaurant, Spain 270
Enatsu, Takuzo 46–7
Enterprise, USS 199
Escoffier, Auguste 253
‘Fat Man’ atomic bomb 81
fish and seafood
ayu (sweet river fish) 162
bluefin tuna 218
bonito 147, 287
carp 110, 117, 121–2, 123–5
fugu 120
funa zushi 117–18, 120–27
ikejime 128
kamoboko (minced, steamed fish) 265, 266
katsuo no tataki (bonito) 147
kazunoko (herring roe) 266
kue (longtooth grouper) 73–4
nare zushi 117, 119–20, 121
percebes 148
salmon 211, 217
satsuma-age (fried fishcake) 37–8, 70
shijimi clams 109–10
shiokara (fermented seafood) 115–17
shirauo (whitebait) 110
squid 301
sushi 209–22
suzuki (sea bass) 110
tako yaki (octopus balls) 131–3
unagi (eels) 97–101, 110, 162
Flute Flute bar, Osaka 137–8, 139
France 71, 171, 252–4
fruit
banpeiyu 145
dai dai 145
Hokkaido melons 319–23
hyuganatsu 47–8, 150
komikan 38, 145
mikan 145
naoshichi 150
yuzu 145–53, 270, 271
Fruit Hunters, The (Gollner) 146
fugu 120
Fujino, Masaki 304–11
Fujita, Chieko 118–19
Fujiwara, Tetsuya 135, 285
Fujiya 1935 restaurant, Osaka 135
Fujiyama, Yoshinari 54–6, 58
Fukushima 284, 286–7, 290–91
Koriyama 238, 284, 287
nuclear disaster (2011) 3, 52, 167, 284, 286–7, 290
funa zushi 117–18, 120–27
fungi 276–9 see also koji
Furukawa, Katsuyuki 282–4, 286–92
Furumachi Kouji, Niigata 274
game 161–2
Ganguro 61
Garamanjyaku restaurant, Okinawa 10–12
Gargouillou restaurant, Toya 302–3
geisha 74, 137
Gekko café, Minowa 205–8
Gelb, David 214
genmaicha tea 193–4
Global Sushi Challenge 209–14, 217, 218–20
Glover, Thomas 80
goishicha tea 197
Gollner, Adam Leith 146
Grace Winery 173–6
Le Grand Véfour restaurant, Paris 269
grapes 170
Koshu 170, 172, 173–6
Grill Swiss restaurant, Ginza 228
Guardian 92
Guérard, Michel 269
Gyoki 170
gyokuro tea 193, 195
gyoza (dumplings) 33, 187
habu (snakes) 23–4, 25, 27–8
Habuki, Masayuki 272–4
hakarl 122
Hakkeijima Sea Paradise, Yokohama 262
Hakodate, Hokkaido 297–300
Morning Market 300–301
Hakuba, Nagano 164
Hakusuikan Hotel, Ibusuki 39–40
Han, Dae-Won 219
hanpen (dumplings) 119
Hashimoto ryotei, Nagasaki 73, 74
Hashimoto, Yumi 73, 74
hatcho miso 124
Hayakawa, Hirohisa 128–9
Hayasaka, Masaaki 186–90
Hearn, Patrick Lafcadio 106–7
‘Hello Kitty’ 158
Hermé, Pierre 93
Hibiya, Yoshihiro 202–5
Hinoya restaurant, Tokyo 228–9
Hirado, Kyushu 198, 200
Hirado, Nagasaki 68, 75–80, 198
Hirome Ichiba, Kochi 147
Hiroshima 81, 84, 167
Hobetsu, Hokkaido 321
hojicha tea 192, 193, 195
Hokkaido 172, 297–331
Hakodate 297
Holland see Netherlands
Honyama, Shizuoka 195–7
Horiguchi, Tomokazu 205–8
horsemeat 165
L’Hôtellerie Restauration 253, 254
Hotel Okura, Tokyo 252, 253
Hotel Windsor, Toya 302
House of the Rising Sun, Shrewsbury 212, 213
Huis Ten Bosch, Nagasaki 62–5, 69
hyuganatsu (fruit) 47–8, 150
Ibaraki 261–2
Ibusuki, Kyushu 39–40
Ichiyasu, Ken 97–100
Ikegawa, Yoshiteru 234–41
ikejime 128
Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery Co. Ltd 272–4
Ina City, Nagano 167
India 225
Indonesia 21
Inland Sea, The (Richie) 329
innovation in Japanese cuisine 132–3, 134
Inomata, Yoshito 236
insects 164–9
ants 169
as a food source 166
bee larvae 161, 166–7, 168
locusts 166, 167, 168
silkworms 167–8
stinkbugs 168–9
zazamushi 166
irabu jiru (snake soup) 23
Iwasaki, Kiyotaka 149–50
izakaya 42
Izumi, Kyushu 50, 52–3
Izumo soba 109
Izumo Taisha shrine 106
James I, King of England and Ireland 78, 79
Japan Times 172, 231
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art (Tsuji) 1, 216
Japanese knotweed 148
Jibiki, Jun 220
Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park, Nagano 165
Jiro Dreams of Sushi 214, 216
Kabe Don 62–4
Kabukicho, Tokyo 183–5
Kadokawa publisher185, 333
Kagoshima, Kyushu 4, 14, 33–4, 36–7, 43, 50
kaiseki ryori 124, 136–7, 140–41, 179, 269
‘kaizen’ 314–15, 316
Kakiemon Pottery, Arita 86, 89–91
Kakiemon, Sakaida 86, 88
kamoboko (minced, steamed fish) 265, 266
Kansai 115–27
kappo restaurants 136–7
Kariwano, Akita 276
Karuizawa Distillery 316
karukan (sweet confection) 38
Kashiwaya restaurant, Osaka 140–41
katsuo no tataki (bonito) 147
katsuobushi (dried bonito fillets) 270
Kawabara, Masaki 109
Kawaji, Sumio 311
Kazato, Masayoshi 215–18
kazunoko (herring roe) 266
Kennedy, Caroline 21
Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) 10, 61
Kerr, Alex 111
Kikkoman soy sauce 95
Kin Awamori Distillery 25
Kincho Kunigamigun, Okinawa 12
Kinki University 100
Kinsa-ryu style of cooking 243
Kirin Beer 80
Kirishima City, Kagoshima 43
Kirishima Distillery 43–8
Kirishima, JS 223, 230
Kita, Taizo 131–2
Kitamura, Mariko and Atsushi 122–7
Kitano, Kobe 255
Kitashina 122–7
Kitashinchi, Osaka 137
Kitcho restaurant, Kyoto 124
Kobe 254–5
beef 18, 34
Kitano 255
Koboyashi, Tomomichi 321–3
Kochi, Shikoku 147, 150, 197
market 150, 197
koicha tea 193
Koiwa, Tokyo 235, 241
koji (fungus) 24, 27, 45–6, 124, 271–81
black 24, 27, 46, 277
health benefits 275
koji kin 273–6, 277, 279
red 26
shio koji 280
white 24
yellow 24, 43
Komagome, Petty Officer 230–32
Komazushi restaurant, Tokyo 220
komikan (fruit) 38, 145
Kon, Satoru 118–20
konacha tea 193
konbu (seaweed) 270
Konno, Dr Hiroshi 276, 277–81
Konno, Seiji 277
Konpira Udon restaurant, Shikoku 149
Korea 5, 24, 41, 45, 50, 72, 87–8, 151
Korean War (1950–53) 82
Koryu restaurant, Osaka 137
Koshu, Yamanashi 170–74
Koshu grapes 170, 172, 173–6
Kotohira Kadan ryokan, Shikoku 149
Kotohira, Kagawa 148
Kouzu restaurant, London 214
Koyano, Yoshikazu 313–14, 317
kue (longtooth grouper) 73–4
kujira yokan (sweet confection) 47
kukicha tea 192–3
Kumakura, Isao 198
Kumamoto, Kyushu 26, 39, 48, 50, 54, 57, 59, 107
Kume-jima, Okinawa 18, 20–21
Kume-jima Deep Sea Water Development Company (KDSWDC) 20
Kumejima Soba restaurant 19
Kurobuta black pigs 33–6
kuromame (black soy beans) 266
Kushiro, Hokkaido 326
kuzu root 270
Kyobashi, Tokyo 255
Kyoto 115
Kyushu 3–4, 5, 13, 33–101, 167
Lake Biwa 115, 117, 120–22, 125
Lake Nakaumi 109
Lake Shinji 107, 109–10
Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit, The (Attlee) 145
Lao Khao (liquor) 24
Laos 167
Lecomte, André 253–4
De Liefde 68, 77
locusts 166, 167, 168
Log Kit restaurant, Sasebo 83–5
machiya 115
MAD FoodCamp Symposium 169
Maeda, Hideki 209
Magic Spice restaurant, Shimo-Kitazawa 226–7
Maki’s Magical Restaurant 138
Malaysia 21
Mamitsuka, Junji 69, 71
Maria Theresa of Austria 88
Maruta, Nobuyo 83–4
Masa restaurant, New York 74
Massan 317
matcha 107–8, 193–4, 198, 270
Matsudaira, Harusato 108
Matsue, Shimane 105–11
tea ceremony 107–9
Matsuhisa, Nobu 51, 87
Matsukawa 18
Matsumoto Castle, Nagano 165
Matsuo, Hideaki 140–41
Matsuo, Shintaro 137
Matsuo, Toshiyuki 75, 76–7
matsutake mushrooms 162
Maze Grill Park Walk restaurant, London 212
McDonald’s 83
Megane Bridge, Nagasaki 75
melons 319–23
IK Melon 322
Yubari king melon 322
Mercian wine company 171
Michelin 134, 135, 157, 235, 240
Guide to Tokyo 2
mikan (fruit) 145
Minami-dake volcano 38–9
Minoru, Sano 181
Minowa, Tokyo 205
Misawa, Ayana 173–6
Misawa, Chotaro 173
Misawa, Shigekazu 175–6
miso 122, 277–8
hatcho miso 124
yuzu-miso 151
Mitchell, David 71
Mitsubishi Corporation 80
Mitterrand, François 162
Miura, Anjin see Adams, William
Miyako-jima, Okinawa 20–21
Miyauchi, Hideo 82, 83
Mizutani, Muneki 116, 117–20
mochi (rice cakes) 205–8, 261–8
zoni mochi 263
Møller, Jack-Robert 209, 211–12, 214
Momofuku Ko restaurant, New York 136
monjayaki (pancake) 93
Morimoto, Masaharu ‘Iron Chef’ 163
Moriuchi, Yoshio 196–7
Motoyoshiya restaurant, Yanagawa 97–100
Mount Unzen 60
Mount Yotei 328
mugicha tea 193
Murakami, Ryū 82
Murata, Yoshihiro 254
Murdoch, James 79
Mushigamaya restaurant 59–60
myoga (ginger) 271
Nagae, Keiko 146
Nagano, Chubu 10, 164–7
Hakuba 164
Ina City 167
Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park 165
Matsumoto Castle 165
Tsumago 164
Nagano, Momota 151
Nagasaki, Kyushu 34, 67–77, 80, 81
atomic bomb 81, 84
Nagasaki beef 83
Sasebo burgers 81–5
Naha City, Okinawa 27, 28
Nakadomari 19
Nakahigashi, Hisao 135, 285
Nakamichi, Tsukasa 20, 21
Nakanoku, Tokyo 202
Nakata, Hidetoshi 163
Nakaumi, Lake 109
Namae, Shinobu 302
naoshichi 150
nare zushi 117, 119–20, 121
Narisawa, Yoshihiro 218
natto (fermented soya beans) 37, 116, 279
Nature 57
Netherlands 71, 167
Dutch East India Company 71, 88
Dutch influence in Japan 68, 69–71, 73, 77, 78, 80, 88
New Year’s Day 262–8
New York Times 235
Niigata 272, 274
Nuttari 274
Nijo Market, Sapporo 301
Nikka Distillery 313–15, 317
Niseko, Hokkaido 328
Nishidai, Hiroshi 138–9
Nobu restaurant chain 51, 87, 209
Noma restaurant, Copenhagen 169
Nordic Food Lab, Copenhagen 280
nori 49–58, 270
Asakusa 50–55
furikake 50
kizami 50
susabi 50, 53, 54, 55
Norway 211
Norwegian Seafood Council 209, 211
nouvelle cuisine 253, 269–70
Obama, Kyushu 59–66
Huis Ten Bosch 62–5, 69
octopus 128–9
tako yaki (octopus balls) 131
Ogawa, Hirotoshi 209–11, 213, 214–18, 220
ohire (fish soup) 73
Okayama Matsuri 245
Okinawa 9–29
longevity 9–10, 14
Okinawa Honto 11
Okinawan purple sweet potatoes (beni imo) 12–16, 46
Okinawan soba 19
tofuyo (Okinawan tofu) 26
Western diet 10
Okin
awa Awamori Distillers Association 28
okonomiyaki (pancake) 93
Okuninushi 106
Okushiri 303
Oliver, Raymond 269
Olympics 1964 238, 253, 269
Olympics 2020 3, 127, 249
Omoigawa restaurant, Matsue 110
onigiri (rice dish) 50, 55, 288
Ono, Jiro 214, 220–22
Onomichi Murakami restaurant, Kita-ku 139
onsen baths 40, 59
Ooka, Hisae 264–8
ortolan 162
Orwell, George 254
Osaka, Kansai 128–41
Kitashinchi 137
Tsuruhashi market 128
Osaka Ryori Asai restaurant 141
osechi ryori (traditional New Year foods) 261–2, 264–8
Oshiro, Miyu 28
Otaru, Hokkaido 301
Otsuchihashi, Tsutomu 139
pachinko parlours 49–50
panko breadcrumbs 270
Parker, Robert 175–6
patisserie 250–51
Patisserie Peltier, Paris 252
percebes 148
Perry, Commodore Matthew C. 68, 312
Phaeton, HMS 71
Philippines 13, 21
Point, Fernand 269
ponzu (sauce) 20
Popow, Wojciech 212, 214
porcelain 86–91
pork 19, 33–40
gyoza (dumplings) 33
Kurobuta black pigs 33–6
‘porkbushi’ 280
shabu-shabu (hotpot) 37
tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets) 33, 224
tonkotsu ramen 33
Porphyra 50, 57 see also seaweed
Portugal 148
Portuguese influence in Japan 67, 68, 74, 75, 76, 80, 171
raisu kare (curry rice) 223–33
ramen 3, 19, 179–90, 180–81, 186–90
tonkotsu 33, 186, 189
tsukemen 183, 185–6, 189–90
Ramen Jiro restaurant, Tokyo 181
Ramen Show, Tokyo 180–81
Ramen Walker magazine 185
Ramsay, Gordon 212, 254
Rarecho 261–5
Rausu, Hokkaido 326, 327
Reid, Jarom 272–5
Revenant, The 320
rice 24, 207, 215, 273, 275, 282–93
awamori 23–9
cultivation 282–4, 288–9, 290, 292–3
curry rice 223–33
mochi (rice cakes) 205–8, 261–8
onigiri 50, 55, 288
shio koji (malted rice in a brine) 280
sushi 209–22
white rice 286
Richie, Donald 329
Robinson, Jancis 175
Robot Hotel, Huis Ten Bosch 65–6
Robot Restaurant, Tokyo 184–5
Robuchon, Joël 136, 146, 270
Romera, Dr Miguel Sánchez 134
ryotei restaurants 73
Ryukyus 10, 24, 25
Ryunique restaurant, Seoul 218
Sagawa, Dr Sokichi 57
Saka No Hana restaurant, London 212, 213
Sakae Zushi restaurant, Chiba 213, 214–17
Sakaida, Atsushi 86, 89–91
sake 42–3, 116, 118, 163, 171, 269, 272–4, 277–9, 281
amazake 274–5
herbal sake 265
‘sakoku’ 68
Sakumoto, Gaku 27
Sakura-jima 145
volcano 36, 38–9
Sakurai, Hiroshi 128
Sakurai, Shinya 194–5
salmon 211, 217
The Meaning of Rice Page 34