by Mark Palmer
Saint, Thomas 48
St John’s College, Oxford 142
St Louis 165
St Luke’s 5
St Michael’s Tower, Glastonbury Tor iv, 99; col. pl. 2
‘Saint Monday’ 37
St Peters factory, Radstock, Somerset 297, 298, 322, 333
St Thomas’s Hospital, London 46
Salzano, Jim 351
Sambrook Court, Basinghall Street, London 74
Samsonite 345
Sapper, Peter 204
Satterthwaite, Michael 100
Savery, William 26
Saville, Eric 231
Saxone 197, 211–12, 276, 307, 342
Scandinavia 182, 187
Schimdt, Dr Oskar, Jnr 226
Schoefler, Oskar 186
Schroders merchant bank 267, 315
Sclater, John 315
Scotland 32, 274
Scott, Ridley 253
Scott-Stokes, H. F.: Clark, Son and Morland Ltd: Centenary Notes and Reminiscences 16
Sears & Co (True-Form Boot Company) 195–6
Sears Holdings 197, 215, 296, 306–7
second industrial revolution 81
Second World War 152, 155–61, 157, 163, 184, 185
Selective Employment Tax 225
Serenity shoes 205
‘Service’ 247
Sessions, William 120
sewing machines
first patent (1790) 48
first American patent 48
introduced to Clarks 5, 47–9, 83–4
acquiring expertise 48
effect on output at Clarks 49
Sex Pistols 246
Sexton 177
Sexton, Son & Everard, Norwich 145–6
Seymour, Sir Edward, Duke of Somerset 8
Seymour, Jane 8
Seymour, Walter 98
Shacklewell School, Hackney, London 53
Shaftesbury Avenue, London 117, 141
Shapwick, Somerset 9
Shareholders Opposed to Enforced Sale (SHOES) 316–20, 323, 325, 326
Shearer, Norma 137
Sheppard & Myers 244
Shepton Mallet, Somerset 83, 171, 250, 320
factory opened on site of Summerleaze park 168
production of Play-ups 168
managed by A. William (Bill) Graves 168
Number Two Factory and Number Three Factory opened 168
efficiency 168
factory for children’s shoes 170, 175
Avalon Chemicals 209, 227
factory closed 339
Shoe and Leather News 296
Shoe Manufacturers Federation 226
Shoe Museum, High Street, Street 6, 150, 235–6
shoe-fitting courses 177
shoeboxes 289
the first (1880s) 99–100
redesigned by Pentagram 254, 255, 256; col. pls. 10, 11
Shoemaster 262
shoes see bespoke shoes; individual shoe names; ‘ready-mades’
Shoon 259
shopfronts col. pl. 15
‘showcards’ 5, 57, 19, 45, 57–8, 58, 98–9, 102, 146, 147, 151, 173; col. pls. 1–5, 8, 9
Showering family 320
Siam (now Thailand) 118
Siberia 118
Sidcot School, Winscombe, North Somerset 14, 46, 65
Silflex factory, Street 264, 265
Sim, Graham 290
Simpson, Andrew col. pl. 13
Simpson, Thomas
successful cotton-spinning business 63
financial report on C. & J. Clark 63, 64, 66
and Clarks’ accounts system 63
appointed an inspector of the business 65–6
on William S. Clark 68
and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 72, 73–5, 77
and repayment of loans 80
Singer, Isaac 48, 69
Singer & Co. 47–8
Singer Corporation 69
Sioux 204
Skepper, Edmund 118
Sketch 151
Skipper, George 80, 81, 90
Skyborne bootees 174
Skyline range 191, 235
Slade 246
Slaughter & May 312
Slim, T. P. 98
slip-lasting process 164, 167
slippers
James Clark uses sheepskin 2, 16, 361
Whitnell makes up the slippers 16
Cyrus experiments with different kinds 17
Brown Peters 17–18; col. pl. 1
use of other materials 29
Tor sheepskin slippers 152
Smart, Vernon 208
Smith, Edgar 156–7
Smith, Pauline 157
Smith, Ray 157
Smith, Dr Roland 221
Smuts, Field Marshal Jan 140
‘Sneak’ 250
Soares, Mario 298
Society of Friends see Quakers
socks 2, 16, 18, 19, 20
Sole of Africa 3, 353
sole agencies 98
soles
crepe 5, 146, 173, 184, 204, 209, 230, 246, 257
sold separately 29
and apprentices 37
cutting to size by machine 49
attaching heels to soles by machine 49
Blake Sole Sewer 69–70
burnishing the edges 70
screwing on 70
bent needle adopted 71
pussyfoot soling 146, 173
rubber 146–7, 172, 174, 201, 209, 245
wooden-sole shoes 153, 158–9
PU soling 226–8
platform 246
Polyveldt 248, 257
Solite 173–4
Somerset
Saxon conquest of 7
development of textile trade 8
Quakers in 9–10
Somerset Archeological Society (later Somerset Archaeological and Natural History Society) 120–21
Somerset County Council 239
Somerset County Museum, Taunton 8, 9
Somerset Youth Association 281
Somerton Road, Street, Somerset 9, 90
Somervell, Robert Miller 266
Somervell Brothers 142, 160, 166, 177
South Africa 56, 98, 117, 144, 182, 183, 189, 284, 333
South Africa Division 185
South America 98, 117
South East region 117
South Korea 297
South Petherton, Somerset 83
South Wales 133
Southampton 347
Southern International speedway event (Wimbledon Stadium, London, 1978) 251
Southern Resources 311
Southlands subsidiary 284
Soviet Union see Russia
Spain 232, 297
Specialist Research Unit Ltd 258, 262, 292
Spectrum 235
speedway 251–2
Spenser, Edmund: Faerie Queene 121, 130
‘Spin’ 247
Spinal Tap (film) 246
Sporting and Dramatic 151
sports shoes 247–9
Springbok 148
Squires, Dougie 216
Stafford 227
Staines, Middlesex 271
standard lines 115
Startrite 239
Stead and Simpson 213, 342
Stephens, Amy (née Metford) 31, 32
Stephens, Isaac 39
Stevenson, Henry ‘Dennis’ (now Lord Stevenson) 258
Stewart, Rod 302
stiffeners 147, 148, 231
‘stitchdown’ 147
Stockton and Darlington Railway 24
Stoddart, Michael 309
Storehouse plc 293
Stratford, East London 278
Street, Somerset
Edward I’s Assizes held in 7
textile industry in 8, 13
name and variant spellings 8–9
population 9, 13, 237
farming in 9
alcohol in 9
Quakers in 9–10
growth due to Clarks 1, 19, 29, 100<
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Clarks headquarters 1, 3, 237, 239, 329, 337, 345, 359, 360
Number One office 139, 140, 146
brawl on polling day (1832) 27–8
health issues 50–51
library 3, 122, 122, 206, 207
by-pass 207
Clarks distribution centre 3–4
see also Clarks factory, Street; Grove factory, Street
Street Estates Limited 209, 228, 232
Street Family Shareholders Association 296
Street Inn, Somerton Road, Street 9, 28
Street Library 3, 122, 122, 206–7, 207
Street Methodist Church 192
Street Parish Council 239
Street post office 127
Street Prize Band 130, 131
Street Shoemakers’ Benefit Society 121
Street Shoemakers’ Provident Benefit Society 122
Street Trustee Family Company (STFC) (family shareholder council) 4, 326, 330–32, 331, 343, 349, 354, 359–60
Street Urban Council: ichthyosaur emblem 8
Street Women’s Auxiliary Fire Service 157
Street Women’s Benefit Society 121–2
Street Women’s Club 122
Street Women’s Liberal Association 123
Street Youth Club 233
Street-Porter, Janet 332
strikes
wages strike (1867) 84, 86
over Hodges (1880) 86–8
national strike (1897) 92
General Strike (1926) 133
Strode College (formerly Strode Technical College), Street 207
Strode Components Ltd 209
Strode Day Continuation School, Street 124–5
Strode School (later Crispin School), Street 92, 203, 207
Strode Technical College (later Strode College), Street 207
Strode Theatre, Street 3, 206, 264
Stuckey’s Banking Company 37, 39, 40, 62, 68
Sturge, Charles 37, 65
Sturge, Edmund 39, 40
Sturge, Jacob Player 39
Sturge, Joseph 37
Sturge, Thomas 65
Sturge family 13
styrene 173
suffrage 27
women’s 105, 117, 119, 123, 137
Sumatra 118
Sumray, Monty 314
Sunday Express 197–8
Sunday Mirror 290
Sunday Pictorial 151
’100 Families to Speak for Britain’ campaign 164
Sunday Telegraph 290
Sunday Times 220, 314, 357
Atticus column 237
Super Cat 357
supermarkets 296, 349
‘Supreme’ 247
Sutton, George Barry 18, 90
C. & J. Clark, 1833–1903: A History of Shoemaking 13, 34, 60–61, 64, 86, 93–94, 111
Swalcliffe, near Banbury, Oxfordshire 65
Swathmore College, near Philadelphia 222
Sweden 230, 266
Switzerland 98, 118, 144, 333
export of cheap shoes to Britain 94–5
Sydney 56, 97
Sydney Lipton orchestra 193
T-bar pump 137; col. pl. 4
Taiwan 297
Talking Newspaper for the Blind, Plymouth 281
Taunton, Somerset 179
team system 83, 86
technological revolution 81
technology
Clarks pioneers new technology 2, 47–50
adaptation of the sewing machine for shoe production 5, 47–9
width fittings 5
3D modelling 5, 260, 261
use of new materials to replace leather 5
polyurethane (PU) 5, 175, 209, 226–8, 257
building and attaching heels 49, 70
Miles’ mechanised sole-cutter 49, 70
Crispin machine 69, 84, 85
Blake Sole Sewer 69–70
rubber soling 146, 172, 174
Construction Electric Mediano Automatico (CEMA) machine 174–6
polyvinyl-chloride (PVC) 175
computers 211, 260, 354
Rotary or In-line machines 227
CAD/CAM 260–62, 261, 355, 355
Westway Distribution Centre 347–8
teenage market 180, 199, 274
Temperance Hall, Street 51
Temperance Society 35, 36
Terry, Frederick 312
Tesco 296
textile industry 8, 13, 29, 133
Thatcher, Margaret (Baroness) 265
Thomas, Dr Vaughan 248
Thomas, George 39, 64
Thomas, Philip 253
Thomas, William 48
Thomas Bostock & Sons 112
Thompson, Alexander 65
Thompson, Dr 46
Thompson, Francis J.
investment in Clarks 64–5
appointed an inspector of the business 65–6
Thorn EMI 335
Thornton, John 17
Thornton’s 328
Timber Research Association 159
time and motion studies 170
Times, The 52, 234, 292, 311, 327, 356, 357
Timpson 177, 275
Tindale, Lawrence (Larry)
earlier career 288
deputy chairman of 3i 287
appointed as Clarks’ first non-family chairman 287
Pedder on 288
announces poor results for 1987 294–5
on flotation issue 295–6, 300
resignation 300
letter from a group of family shareholders 300–301
Today newspaper 290
Todd, Ann 152–3
Toleration Act (1689) 23
Toll Gate, Street 16
Tomorrow’s World (television programme) 291
Tooting, London 276
Tor branding 99, 118, 128–9, 132–3, 136, 150, 152; col. pls. 2, 3
Tor Shoes Catalogue 116
Torflex children’s shoes 203
Torielli 262
Toronto, Canada 204
torpedo parts 155
Tovey, Douglas 195
Townsend factory 250
Toyota 299
Toyota Sewing System 299
trade catalogues 151
trade unions 243
and ‘craft societies’ 49
decriminalised (1867) 84
Amalgamated Cordwainers Association 84
National Union on Boot and Shoe Rivetters and Finishers (Sons of St Crispin) (later NationalUnion of Boot and Shoe Operatives) 84–5
Clarks exempted from negotations with unions on pay and conditions 92
agreement on working week (1966) 225–6
Trades Union Congress (TUC) 133
trainers 247–9
‘travelling salesmen’
commission 33, 117
and London as a sales territory 116–17
Treasury 335
Trefano Shoe Ltd, near Tonypandy, Welsh valleys 230, 265
Trevelyan, Charles, MP 122
Trinidad 232
Troubleshooter (television series) 332
Trueform 195, 276, 296
Trumps 235
trusts 307, 353, 360
Tuf 266
Turner, Alf 298
Turner, E. S.: The Shocking History of Advertising 58
Tutankhamun 137
Tuxill, Bill 185
TV Times 278
two-tone shoes 137
UK Shoe Research Association 168
Ukraine 201, 297
unbranded shoe market 211–12
unemployment 3, 48, 121, 136, 138, 243, 265
UNICEF education projects 353
Union of Suffrage Societies 123
United Nations 353
United Precision Industries Ltd 315
United States 187
Clarks’ shoes and rugs begin to be sold in 32–3
competition with Britain 33, 94–5, 99, 103, 108
restrictive tariffs 56
new, informal designs 103
Clarks’ Quaker connections in America 103
Clarks proud of its American influences 116
Clarks board members visit 144, 145
California Last construction 164
wide choice of footwear 165
frequent shoe purchase 165, 195
productivity in shoe industry 170
teenagers 180
American companies and hostile bids 196
wholesaling in 203, 230
Hanover Shoe Company 244–5
American market crucial to Clarks 245
Bostonian Shoe Company 245
‘disastrous year’ in (1984) 280
closure of Clarks’ factories in 4, 280, 333
‘most unsatisfactory situation’ in 281
Probert and American operations 284
discount and outlet stores 327
Pleeth’s and Clothier’s fact-finding tours 328
9/11 terrorist attacks 344
Bolliger’s aim 346
Clarks’ store openings planned 352
Clarks’ First Step Programme 354
University College London 94
University of Liverpool 221
University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology 291–2
Upstairs Downstairs (television series) 246
Urban District Council 88, 119–20
Urban Hymns (album) 342
US Shoe Corporation 299
US Stock Exchange 244
‘utility footwear’ 155, 160
Vale of Avalon 9
Vanstraaten, Max 98
Varese 137
VE Day 164
Veldt 147
Venner, Thomas 23
Vennland factory, Minehead 265
ventilated shoes 164
Verdict 306
Verona, Italy 290
Verve, The 342
Victoria, Queen 34, 41–2, 82, 102, 320
Victoria Athletic Field and Club playing fields, Street 3, 207
Victoria College, Leeds 103
Victorian Employers Federation 92
‘Victorian Prosperity’ 44
Vietnam 4, 299, 346, 354
Village Album 303
Vinelott, Mr Justice 253
Vivier, Roger 198
Voertrekkers 185
Vogue 102, 152, 154
Vogue (US) col. pl. 16
Vorticism 151
Waffle trainers 247
Wales 274
Walker, Mrs (companion) 12
Wall Street Crash (1929) 133
Wallabees 204, 205, 245, 342
Wallace, Marjorie (Miss World) 236, 249
Wallace, Robert 252–3, 254, 256–7, 259, 260, 262, 276
Wallis, Mary 48
Wallis, Peter 258–9, 292
(as Peter York): Official Sloane Ranger Handbook 258
Waltham Abbey, Essex 53
Walton, Somerset 29
Walvin, James: The Quakers: Money and Morals 89
Walwyns 142
Wansdyke Shoes Ltd 212–13, 233
Ward, Joseph (Joe) 147–8
Ward Bros 96
Ward White 266, 267, 268, 281
Warminster, Wiltshire 171, 209
Waterford 31
Watford, Hertfordshire 161
website 4, 350, 351
Weedon, Bert: ‘Big Beat Boogie’ 216
Welch, Florence col. pl. 14