them into the acid and salt mixture followed by the
fruits and vegetables
oil or slowly whisk the oil into the yolks to form a stable
Finely diced, chopped, or mashed fruits and
emulsion—in other words, mayonnaise—and then add
vegetables add flavor and texture to vinaigrettes. These
the acid and salt. An egg-enriched vinaigrette is a little
vinaigrettes can be used to complement or emphasize
thicker than a basic oil vinaigrette and the yolk helps
flavors in the salad.
hold the ingredients in suspension a little longer than
When adding fruits and vegetables to vinaigrette,
a basic vinaigrette made with oil and vinegar.
be sure their texture is appropriate for the salad.
Homemade mayonnaise is better than bottled
Heavy vinaigrettes quickly weigh down tender greens
mayonnaise for a vinaigrette. See the basic recipe on
and other delicate ingredients. Soft fruits and
p. XX to make your own. Be sure to use a mild olive
vegetables work best, and you’ll want to finely dice
oil or cut strong-flavored oil with neutral oil.
firm or crisp fruits and vegetables, like raw peppers
or celery. I typically macerate fruits and vegetables in
basic Vinaigrettes
the acid and salt before adding the oil (or fat.)
Making vinaigrettes is simple—you need a bowl and
whisk. When making any vinaigrette, start by seasoning
cheese
the acid with salt, then taste. You may need to add a little
Cheese adds complex, salty flavor and rich texture
more salt or a few more drops of acid if it’s too salty.
to vinaigrettes. In general, hard grating and blue
Then whisk in the oil or fat. Taste the vinaigrette once
cheeses pair best with creamy or mayonnaise-based
more, and adjust the acid or salt if needed.
vinaigrettes. Feta also works well with yogurt or
Let the ingredients sit in the acid for 5 to
buttermilk vinaigrettes.
10 minutes before adding the oil or fat so that the
Use lemon as the acid when adding cheese to
flavors can infuse the vinegar; in the case of shallot
vinaigrette—wine vinegar can make the cheese taste
and onion, sitting in the acid slightly cooks them
off. Keep the salt content of the cheese in mind;
and reduces their hot, gassy edge, making them more
you may not need as much additional salt. I don’t
palatable. I macerate garlic, ginger, fresh or dried
regularly add black pepper to vinaigrette—I generally
chiles, and citrus zest as well. Occasionally, I add
add it to the salad—but I like a generous amount of
a few bruised herb leaves, like basil, to infuse herb
black pepper in dressings containing cheese because
flavor in the acid and remove the leaves just before
the pepper complements cheese nicely.
whisking in the oil.
When adding soft cheese, like blue cheese,
Vinaigrette is best made fresh, so make just enough.
to vinaigrettes with cream, buttermilk, or yogurt,
Re-emulsify the vinaigrette—whisk it once more—
just before using.
16 Making a Better Salad
b a s i c V i n a i g r e t t e
b a s i c m ayo n n a i s e f o r V i n a i g r e t t e
makes approximately 1⁄4 cup Vinaigrette;
makes about 3⁄4 cup
enough for 4 leafy salads
1 tablespoon vinegar, lemon juice, or a combination
1 egg yolk
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
3
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil, or a combination of oils
⁄4 to 1 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil, or part olive oil
and part vegetable oil
Combine the vinegar and a pinch of salt in a
Kosher salt
small bowl. Taste and add more salt if needed.
Whisk the egg yolk, mustard (if using), and 1⁄2
Whisk in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil to form
teaspoon water together in a small bowl. Before
an emulsion. Taste, and if too acidic, add the
you begin whisking in the oil, steady the bowl:
remaining oil. Taste again, preferably with a key
Twist a dishtowel into a rope, and form it into
component of the salad, and adjust with more
a ring about the size of the base of the bowl. Fit
salt and/or acid as necessary.
the bowl snugly into the ring. Begin whisking
Variations
and slowly add the oil, literally a drop at a time.
As the mixture begins to thicken and emulsify,
• To make shallot vinaigrette: Add a small, finely diced
gradually add more oil in a thin, steady stream
shallot (about 1 tablespoon) to the vinegar and salt
mixture, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes before whisking
until the mixture is perfectly emulsified.
in the oil.
At this point, you can stir in approximately
• To make garlic vinaigrette: Mash a small clove (or half
3 tablespoons acid and season with salt and
a clove) of garlic to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt.
other ingredients such as garlic and shallot,
Combine the garlic with the vinegar, and let sit for 5 to
herbs, capers, and/or anchovies. You can also
10 minutes before whisking in the oil.
add buttermilk or crème fraîche. Correct the
• To make mustard vinaigrette: Add 1 teaspoon Dijon
consistency as necessary with cool water.
mustard to the vinegar and salt mixture along with
the garlic and/or shallot if using. Taste and add more
mustard if you like before whisking in the oil.
• To make creamy vinaigrette: Replace some or all of the
olive oil in any of the above combinations with heavy
cream, crème fraîche, or whole-milk yogurt. Thin as
Making salads more satisfying
necessary with cool water. Finish with a few twists of
black pepper if you like.
Salads often want or need a little extra protein to give
• To make herb vinaigrette: Stir in about 1 tablespoon
them a little heft, particularly for more hearty eaters.
chopped herbs to any of the above combinations.
•
In general, I opt for eggs or meats and fish that are
To make citrus vinaigrette: Use lemon juice or a
combination of citrus juices and/or vinegar. Add about
cured or prepared in advance or quick and easy to cook
1⁄2 teaspoon finely chopped citrus zest if you like.
at the last minute. To pull the elements together on the
Combine the citrus juice, zest, and salt. Taste for salt
plate, make extra vinaigrette to drizzle over meats and
and acidity, and add more lemon juice or vinegar if the
fish or to pass at the table.
mixture is too sweet. If using diced shallot, add it and let
the mixture sit for 5 to 10 minutes before adding the oil.
eggs
Eggs are one of my favorite solutions for making salads
a meal. Poached or fried eggs can be propped next
to a wide variety of salads. I especially like them with
grain and leg
ume salads. When hard-cooked or even
not-so-hard-cooked (see p. XX), eggs can be cooked in
Making a Better Salad 17
17
advance and easily halved or quartered and tucked into
the stovetop or grill; like chicken and duck breast,
salads, or sieved on top shortly before serving.
pork or lamb chops or tenderloin, and skirt, hanger,
or flat-iron steak. Quail is another option; it cooks
fish and shellfish
quickly on the stovetop or grill and is perfect for
Fish and shellfish offer a variety of simple solutions for
company-friendly salads. Meats like beef, pork, lamb,
making salads a meal. Thinly sliced smoked salmon,
or chicken can be roasted in advance and served at
flakes of smoked trout, or good-quality canned tuna are
room temperature with a variety of salads.
delicious and satisfying. Even better, you can preserve
(or confit) tuna, halibut, or cod at home and keep it
on hand for last-minute salads. Tartare (or crudo),
Getting ahead
carpaccio, and ceviche are other options. (See p. XX
when making salads
for instructions on how to make tuna carpaccio and p.
XX for scallop ceviche.) To make tartare, simply dice
Salads come together quickly and easily if you’re in the
or slice good-quality, fresh, raw fish, such as tuna or
habit of preparing some ingredients in advance. This
halibut, and lightly dress it with olive oil, citrus juice
is a list of simple things that you can do ahead that save
or champagne vinegar, and salt. Keep in mind that the
time when making salads.
more acid you add, the more “cooked” the fish will be.
Quickly grilled, sautéed, or seared fish and
Wash and dry salad greens
shellfish cook in minutes and go nicely with any
Rather than buy lifeless, prewashed and mixed greens,
number of salads. Shrimp, scallops, and squid, as
buy individual heads and bulk greens and make your
well as swordfish and tuna are all suited to being
own mixes. Wash and spin lettuces and greens dry (or
cooked hot and fast. Slow-roasted fish, such as
roll in a lint-free towel) when you get home from the
salmon or halibut, is another option (see p. XX for
market, and store in the refrigerator; most greens will
instructions on slow roasting).
hold for 3 to 4 days.
meat
roast and pickle beets
I keep a selection of cured and preserved meats on
Roasted and pickled beets come in handy for a variety
hand: sausage, bacon, and pancetta in the freezer and
of salads and last for about a week in the refrigerator.
a stick of firm salami in the refrigerator. Proscuitto,
This basic recipe will work for beets of any color
serrano ham, coppa (cured rolled pork shoulder), and
or size, just adjust the cooking time accordingly.
bresaola (air-dried beef) are all good choices of cured
Whenever possible, peel the beets while still warm,
meats as well. In general, you want these meats firm,
when they easily slip out of their skins.
but not hard. Serve them thinly sliced and draped on
To roasted and pickle beets: Preheat the oven
the salad or arranged on a platter and passed at the
to 350°F. Trim the beet greens, if any. Wash the beets
table. Duck confit (duck legs cooked and preserved in
to remove dirt and grit, then put them (unpeeled) in
duck fat) is also simple to brown off at the last minute
a roasting pan or baking dish that will accommodate
and serve propped on the side of warm salads or
them in a single layer. Add water to come about 1⁄2
shredded and tossed into salads. (Use the duck fat in
inch up the sides of the pan. Cover with foil and roast
the vinaigrette as well.)
until they can be pierced with a sharp knife, about 1
When choosing meat and poultry for salad plates,
hour for medium-size beets. Let cool to warm room
I generally choose cuts that cook relatively quickly on
temperature (beets are easier to peel when warm.)
18 Making a Better Salad
When the peppers are cool enough to handle,
To peel beets:Trim the top and root end of the
peel them by rubbing with your hands and
beet with a small, sharp knife. Using your hands, slip
peeling back the blackened skin. Halve
the beet out of its skin. Cut the beets as you like (see
lengthwise, and discard the core and seeds.
p. XX).
Cut or tear the peppers into 1⁄2-inch-wide
To pickle beets: Put them in a bowl, and season
strips, and put in a bowl. Add the capers, garlic,
with salt and a tablespoon or two of vinegar (red,
marjoram or basil, and oil. Season with salt, a
white, or Champagne). Gently toss to combine and
pinch of cayenne, and vinegar. Taste and add
more salt, cayenne, and/or vinegar if needed.
let sit at room temperature. Taste the beets after 10 or
Let sit at room temperature for 10 to 20
15 minutes; they should be lightly pickled and nicely
minutes or up to several hours; or refrigerate
seasoned; if not, add a little more salt and/or vinegar.
and allow the peppers to return to room
temperature before serving.
roast peppers
Just before serving, taste again for salt and vinegar.
Roasted peppers are delicious in many salads or served
on the side, and they keep well for several days in the
refrigerator. Prepare the recipe below for company
on the day of, and save the leftovers for salads (or
stem cooking greens
sandwiches) later in the week. Roasted peppers are
This is another step that doesn’t take much time, but
especially delicious with grains and legumes, such as
makes a difference when preparing dinner at the end
farro, lentils, or plump white beans, like butter beans.
of a long workday or just before company arrives. Strip
the greens off of kale and chard ahead of time, cut or
tear into small pieces, and store in a sealed bag in the
refrigerator; it keeps for 3 to 4 days. (See p. XX for
r o a s t e d r e d p e p p e r s
more on how to do this.)
W i t h g a r l i c a n d h e r b s
serVes 6 to 8
cook grains
6 medium red peppers (about 3 pounds), left whole
Grains are best cooked and served warm or at room
2 tablespoons small capers, preferably salt packed,
rinsed well, soaked, and drained (optional)
temperature on the same day, but for quick meals,
2 cloves garlic, pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch of salt
make them ahead and store them in the refrigerator.
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh marjoram or basil
Be sure to let grains come to room temperature before
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
finishing the salad.
Kosher salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper; more as needed
cook beans
1 1⁄2 teaspoons red-wine vin
egar; more as needed
Legume salads come together quickly and easily with
Char the peppers directly over an open flame,
cooked beans on hand. However, soaking beans in
either on a grill or the stovetop, or under the
advance—even more so than actually cooking beans—
broiler, and turn until they are charred all over.
can slip through the cracks. Get in the habit of soaking
If the peppers feel a little firm, put them in a
bowl and cover with a kitchen towel to steam for
beans overnight and cooking them the following day
a few minutes, keeping in mind that too much
(quick-soak methods don’t work nearly as well). Let
steam will overcook the flesh. If the peppers are
beans cool at room temperature and store them in the
tender, let them cool at room temperature.
refrigerator in their cooking liquid. Cooked beans
keep for 3or 4 days.
Making a Better Salad 19
19
Fresh shelling beans can be shucked from the pod
to choose high-quality knives that are a comfortable fit
and stored in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. I’ve had
for your hand and hone them often.
success freezing fresh shelling beans in a sealed bag,
too; they kept well for 3 months. Once fresh shelling
cutting board
beans are cooked, they hold for the same amount of
It’s essential to have a nice, big cutting surface to work
time as dried beans (3 or 4 days.)
on. Even the smallest kitchens typically have room for
one good-size cutting board if you clear unnecessary
make croutons and breadcrumbs
clutter off the countertops. I prefer the look and feel
We turn to our freezer frequently for croutons or
of thick, wooden cutting boards, though plastic boards
breadcrumbs. To get ahead and make use of good-
are lightweight and easy to wash when handling meat
quality loaves of country-style, day-old bread, trim
and fish. To stabilize your cutting board, place a damp
the crust for
towel underneath it.
crumb into rustic croutons (see p. XX) or grind into
breadcrumbs (see p. XX). Store any of these in the
Work boWls
freezer and defrost briefly before toasting.
A collection of nesting bowls, including one large,
wide bowl, is ideal for salads. I prefer stainless-steel
hard-cook eggs
bowls; they’re lightweight and easy to hold in one
Hard-cooked eggs (or not-so-hard-cooked eggs) keep
Salad for Dinner Page 4