processed to remove its natural coating of bitter-tasting saponins, but it’s a good idea to give it a quick rinse before cooking.
Couscous is not a grain but a tiny pellet made from semolina flour and water.
Israeli couscous is a tiny pasta made from semolina and water as well, but it’s rolled into larger pellets and toasted. It has a chewier texture than regular couscous.
Fregola, a tiny, toasted pasta from Sardinia, is similar to Israeli couscous.
Buy grains at busy markets to ensure that they are fresh. Be sure to rinse
them under cool running water to remove any dirt or debris before cooking
(especially quinoa.) When making grain salads, consider combining grains
to vary the taste and texture. I like combining black rice and farro as well as legumes and grains or.
Using bread, grains, and pasta in salads
For the best flavor and texture, serve grain, bread, and pasta salads at room
temperature. However, grains and pasta can be cooked in advance and stored in
the refrigerator for a few days, making it a snap to pull together dinner in no time. (It’s a must to eat bread salads shortly after they’re prepared.) Whenever possible, let cold grains and pasta come to room temperature before finishing
the salad.
rice salad with asparagus,
favas & peas
Kosher salt
2 shallots, finely diced
1⁄4 cup chopped chives
2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or basmati rice
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped chervil
2 cups shelled English peas
juice; more as needed
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped mint
1 pound fresh green asparagus, tough
2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
ends snapped off (see p. XX), and cut at
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more
an angle into 1⁄4-inch segments
as needed
11⁄2 cups shelled fava beans (about
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
11⁄2 pounds fava beans in the pod)
parsley
add SubStance
This salad is a celebration of spring. Look for freshly cut asparagus, and avoid Serve with shrimp or salmon, chicken
bunches that are starting to flower at the tips (a sign that the asparagus is past its or spring lamb, or not-so-hard-cooked
prime.) You can vary the vegetables if you don’t have one of them on hand. Snap eggs sprinkled with salt and pepper.
peas, cut at an angle and blanched until crisp-tender, are good here.
With rice salads, it’s best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water, like pasta. This way, the grains stay separate and are less apt to turn into a pile of mush. Cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool. Be sure to serve rice salads at room temperature; cold rice is hard and unpleasant.
ServeS 6 to 8
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt—it should taste
almost like seawater. Add the rice and boil until the grains are just
cooked—they should be slightly al dente—about 15 minutes. Drain well and
spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
Bring a separate large pot of water to a boil to cook the peas, asparagus,
and fava beans. Have a large bowl of ice water ready, and start with the
peas. To make this task easier, put the peas in a fine-mesh strainer basket,
and submerge the peas and the basket in the water until the peas are just
tender, about 2 minutes. Lift the basket out of the water and immediately
submerge the peas (still in the strainer basket) in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice water and drain the peas
well. Transfer the peas to a small bowl, and set aside at room temperature
temporarily, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.
Repeat the process with the asparagus, cook the asparagus in the strainer
basket until just tender, about 2 minutes, then immediately submerge the
asparagus in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out
continued on page xx
124 grain, bread & pasta salads
KS_TP_FvaBnMnt_49.tif
continued from page xx
KS_TP_Prcs_Fava1_90.tif
of the ice, drain well, and transfer the asparagus to a small bowl. Set aside
at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature
before using.
If necessary, add more ice to the ice bath. Put the fava beans in the strainer basket, and submerge in the boiling water until the beans slip easily out of
their skins and are tender, about 2 minutes. (To test the favas, carefully
remove a bean from the basket and pierce the outer layer with your thumb,
KS_TP_Prcs_Fava2_93.tif
gently squeezing the bean from its skin.) Immediately submerge the beans
in the ice water until thoroughly chilled. Pop the beans out of their skins,
and set aside temporarily at room temperature, or refrigerate and return
to room temperature before using.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a
pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil.
Taste and add more salt if necessary.
Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss it lightly baSic SkillS
with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the vegetables and herbs, and
To blanch fava beans, bring a pot of
season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette
water to a boil and have a large bowl
on top and toss lightly to combine. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice,
of ice water ready. To easily transfer the
and/or olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a shallow platter or individual
beans from the pot to the ice bath, put
serving plates. Serve at room temperature.
the shucked fava beans in a fine-mesh
strainer basket, and submerge them
(and the basket) in the water until the
beans slip easily out of their skins and
are tender, about 1 minute. To test the
favas, remove a bean from the basket,
and slip it out of its skin by piercing the
outer layer with your thumb and gently
squeezing the bean. Once tender, lift the
basket out of the water and immediately
submerge the beans, basket and al , in
the ice bath. Chill the beans well and
then pop them out of their skins. Cover
and refrigerate the beans until shortly
before using.
You can shuck fava beans (stage one,
I call it) a day or two in advance, and
then blanch and pop them out of the
their skins (stage two) a day in advance.
126 grain, bread & pasta salads
toasted pita and arugula salad
with cucumber, black olives & feta
4 pita breads (6 to 7 inches round)
4 handfuls arugula, about 4 ounces,
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
washed and dried
parsley
1⁄2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
1 medium cucumber, peeled if necessary,
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
Kosher salt
and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice or jewels (to yield
Freshly ground black pepper
about 11⁄2 cups)
1 large clove
garlic, pounded to a smooth
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
1
paste with a pinch of salt
⁄2 cup sliced scallions (cut about 1⁄4 inch
thick), green and white parts only
Aleppo pepper, for sprinkling (optional)
2 1⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
1
more as needed
⁄2 cup black olives, such as Niçoise, pitted
and very coarsely chopped
I call for Aleppo pepper on top on this salad, but you can also add a pinch of cayenne to the vinaigrette to add a little more heat. A sprinkle of sumac will add tangy flavor.
Serve the salad immediately to preserve the crunch factor. It’s especially good with grilled chicken or lamb.
ServeS 4
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Split the pita breads in half horizontally (the bread should naturally
separate into 2 thin disks), and then tear into rustic 2- to 3-inch pieces.
Divide the pita evenly among 2 baking sheets, and drizzle about 11⁄2
tablespoons oil on each pan. Lightly toss the pita to coat well, spread out
to an even layer, and sprinkle with salt. Toast the bread in the oven until
crisp and golden, about 12 minutes. Set aside to cool.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, vinegar, and a pinch of salt
in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄2 cup
oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt if necessary.
Just before you are ready to serve, put the arugula, cucumber, scallions,
olives, parsley, and mint in a large work bowl, and season with salt and a
few twists of pepper. Add the pita. Gently but thoroughly toss with just
enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the salad. Taste and add more salt or
vinaigrette if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates. Sprinkle the cheese on top and drizzle any
remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on the bread and
cheese. Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper and serve immediately.
grain, bread & pasta salads 127
farro and asparagus salad
with spring onion and mint
2 cups farro
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
Kosher salt
drizzling
Large handful of arugula, about
1 pound fresh green asparagus
1 medium-size spring onion, about 6
11⁄2 ounces, washed and dried, for garnish
ounces, white and pale green parts only,
(optional)
1 large clove garlic, pounded to smooth
thinly sliced (to yield about 1 cup)
paste with a pinch of salt
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
31⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
parsley
more as needed
add SubStance
Farro is the new go-to grain in our house. All of us enjoy it and, like pasta, it’s easy Drape the salad with prosciutto or
to prepare and makes a satisfying meal. You can fold crumbled feta into this salad or serve with salmon, halibut, or chicken.
dot the top with goat cheese or fresh ricotta. A dollop of yogurt sauce (see p. XX) on the side is also delicious.
ServeS 4 to 6
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and line 2 baking sheets with
parchment. Season with a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost
like seawater. Add the farro, reduce the heat to maintain a low boil, and
cook until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well and spread out on a one
of the lined baking sheets to cool at room temperature.
While the farro is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season
with a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Grasp
an asparagus spear with both hands and snap it in two; it will naturally
separate at the point where the stalk becomes tender. Trim the remaining
spears to the same length. Discard the tough bottom ends of the spears.
If necessary, lightly peel about two-thirds of the spear. (If the asparagus is very fresh and tender, this step is often unnecessary.)
Drop the asparagus into the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender,
3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the spears. (Keep in mind that
it will “carry”—continue to cook a little—after it comes out of the water.)
Drain and quickly spread the spears out on the remaining lined baking
sheet to cool at room temperature. (If you’re concerned that the asparagus
is overcooked, put it in the refrigerator to cool.) Cut the asparagus at an
angle into 1⁄2-inch segments and set aside.
128 grain, bread & pasta salads
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic and vinegar in a small bowl.
More about
Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt or
SprinG onionS
vinegar if necessary.
Spring onions are mild, young onions
that have been pul ed before they
Put the farro, asparagus, onion, and herbs in a large work bowl. Season
mature into conventional onions. (Often,
with salt, drizzle the vinaigrette on top, and gently fold to combine. Taste
they are the onions that the farmers pul
and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Spoon the salad onto a platter or
early to thin the rows.) Their delicate
individual serving plates. Scatter the arugula around the plate. Finish with
flavor is wel -suited for raw salads.
a thin drizzle of olive oil and serve.
Use them in the spring in place of
regular onions or green onions. Look
for bunches that have perky, bright
green onion tops (leaves) and a firm,
unblemished bulb. The bulbs, either red
or white and round or tapered, differ
very little in flavor; go with the onions
that look the freshest.
Like green onions, you can use both
the white (or red) bulb and the pale
green portion of the tops. Trim and
discard the roots and dark green portion
of the tops, and an outer layer of the
bulb if necessary. Then quickly rinse
to remove any sand or dirt. Cut spring
onions in the same manner as a green
or mature onions: Crosswise into round
or oval slices, or in half lengthwise
(if you encounter a firm sprout in the
center, remove it) and then crosswise
into half-moon slices or dice. Like mature
onions, spring onions benefit from being
soaked briefly in ice water to improve
their flavor and texture when used raw.
grain, bread & pasta salads 129
rice salad with cucumber,
feta & herbs
Kosher salt
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
2
olive oil; more as needed
parsley
1⁄2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or
basmati rice
1⁄2 English cucumber, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh mint
1 shallot, fined diced
or jewels (to yield 1 heaping cup)
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh dill
1
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
⁄4 cup sliced scallions (cut about 1⁄4 inch
Freshly ground black pepper
juice; more as needed
thick), white and pale green parts only
2 ounces good-quality feta cheese,
1
1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar
⁄2 cup green olives, such as Picholine
crumbled
or Lucques, rinsed well, pitted, and
coarsely chopped
add SubStance
Ripe tomatoes, seasoned with salt and a drizzle of olive oil, are delicious served on Drape slices of prosciutto or Serrano
the side of this salad. Roasted red peppers go nicely as well.
ham on the plate, and/or serve with a
To keep the rice grains separate, it’s best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water. Be few not-so-hard-cooked eggs. It’s also
sure to cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool.
good with almost any gril ed meat.
ServeS 6
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt—it
should taste almost like seawater—and add the rice. Cook until the grains
are slightly al dente, about 15 minutes. Drain well, and spread the rice on
a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a
pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil.
Taste and add more salt if necessary.
Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss lightly
with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the cucumber, scallions, olives,
and herbs, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle
the vinaigrette on top and toss lightly to combine. Add the feta and toss
once more. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, and/or oil if necessary.
Transfer to a shallow platter or individual plates and serve at room
temperature.
130 grain, bread & pasta salads
rice and lentils with
cherry tomatoes and yogurt sauce
1⁄2 cup green lentils, picked over
11⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
1⁄2 cup scallions (white and pale green
1 bay leaf
juice; more as needed
parts only), thinly sliced on a sharp angle
3
1
Kosher salt
⁄4 cup plain yogurt
⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1 cup basmati rice
1 small clove garlic (or 1⁄2 medium clove),
pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch
Salad for Dinner Page 16