Salad for Dinner
Page 17
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoons extra-virgin
of salt
olive oil; more as needed
1 pint cherry tomatoes, such as
1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and
Sweet 100s, halved and lightly seasoned
1 large onion, thinly sliced
coarsely ground
with salt
1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Sumac, for sprinkling
add SubStance
I find the combination of earthy lentils and rice incredibly satisfying. The yogurt sauce Serve with grilled fish, chicken,
adds both richness and a touch of acidity to this salad. I prefer thick, Greek-style or lamb.
yogurt, thinned with a little water so that it drizzles nicely.
ServeS 4
Bring a medium-size pot of water of water to a boil and season with a
generous amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the rice
and boil until the grains are just cooked—they should be slightly al dente—
about 15 minutes. Drain well and spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool.
Set aside at room temperature.
Put the lentils and bay leaf in a medium pot and cover with water by
2 inches. Bring to a boil and season with a generous pinch of salt.
Reduce the heat, and simmer gently until the lentils are tender but not
at all mushy (you want them to retain their shape), 20 to 30 minutes,
depending on the age of the lentils. If the lentils start to peak through the
cooking liquid, add a splash more water. Drain well, and spread out in a
shallow container to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
Warm a medium-size sauté pan over medium-heat. Add 1⁄4 cup olive oil,
the onion, and red pepper flakes, and season with salt. Sauté, stirring
occasionally, until the onion is caramelized and dark brown, about 15
minutes. (You’ll need to stir the onion more frequently when it begins to
darken, so it browns evenly.) Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.
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grain, bread & pasta salads 131
continued from page xx
To make the vinaigrette, combine the lemon juice and a pinch of salt
in a small bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons olive oil. Taste and add more salt
if necessary.
Combine the yogurt, garlic, cumin, and the remaining 2 tablespoons
olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt. Taste and add more salt if
necessary. If the yogurt sauce is thick (you want it to drizzle nicely), thin
it with a trickle of water.
Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl and toss it lightly
with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the lentils, onion, scallions, and
herbs and season with salt. Add the vinaigrette and toss lightly to combine.
Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, and/or olive oil if necessary. Add
the tomatoes and toss once more. Spoon the salad onto a shallow platter
or individual plates. Drizzle the yogurt on and around the around the
salad. Sprinkle with sumac and serve immediately. Pass the extra yogurt
sauce at the table.
132 grain, bread & pasta salads
KS_TP_LntlTmto_63.tif
roasted red pepper and
bread salad with tuna confit
6 large red peppers (about 3 pounds)
2 cloves garlic, pounded to smooth paste
11⁄2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, soaked,
One 12-ounce loaf rustic French or Italian
with a pinch salt
and drained well
bread (choose a firm, chewy loaf, not an
Pinch of cayenne; more as needed
11⁄2 cups Tuna Confit (see p. XX) or good-
airy one)
2
quality, oil-packed tuna, drained well, and
1⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
separated into large flakes
2⁄3 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin
more as needed
olive oil
Kosher salt
Handful of arugula, washed and dried,
2 or 3 leaves fresh basil, plus
for garnish
1⁄2 cup
1 shallot, thinly sliced
roughly chopped
Bread salad is traditionally made with stale bread that is moistened with water and dressed with vinaigrette. This version is different in that it’s made with fresh bread that has been torn into rustic pieces and toasted in a hot oven (essentially rustic croutons).
The outside is crisp, but the inside is still slightly chewy. Be sure to buy a loaf of good-quality rustic French or Italian bread--it makes all the difference.
ServeS 4 to 6
Char the peppers over an open flame, either on a grill or the stovetop or
under the broiler. If the peppers feel a little firm, put them in a bowl and
cover with a kitchen towel to steam for a few minutes (too much steam
will overcook the flesh). If the peppers are tender, let them cool at room
temperature.
When the peppers are cool enough to handle, rub them with your fingers
and peel back the blackened skin. Halve the peppers lengthwise, and
discard the core and seeds. Cut or tear the peppers into 1⁄2-inch-wide
strips, put in a large work bowl, and set aside.
Using a sharp, serrated knife, trim the crust from the bread, and cut into
1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch-wide slices. Cut each slice into 1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch-wide strips, and then tear the strips into 1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch rustic cubes. Put the bread on
a baking sheet and toss lightly with 3 tablespoons oil. Spread the bread in
an even layer and season lightly with salt. Bake until crisp and light golden
brown outside and tender inside, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool at
room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, bruise the whole basil leaves by crushing between
your fingers and combine in a small bowl with the garlic, a pinch of
cayenne, and the vinegar. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the basil
and whisk in the remaining 2⁄3 cup oil. Taste and add more salt, vinegar,
134 grain, bread & pasta salads
or cayenne if necessary. Season the peppers with salt, add about two-thirds of the vinaigrette, and toss well to combine. Set the peppers and the
remaining vinaigrette aside at room temperature.
Put the shallot in a small bowl and cover with ice water to crisp and remove
some its hot, gassy flavor. Set aside.
Just before serving, drain the shallot. Add the shallot, capers, and toasted
bread to the peppers, and toss well to combine. Taste and add more salt
or vinegar if needed. Let the salad sit for 5 to 10 minutes (no longer) to
let the bread absorb the vinaigrette and pepper juice. Add the tuna and
chopped basil, and gently fold to combine. Taste once more for salt.
Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual serving plates. Scatter the
arugula around the platter or plates to garnish, and drizzle the remaining
vinaigrette around the plate, focusing on the tuna and arugula. Serve
immediately.
tuna confit
MakeS about 12 ounceS preServed tuna
1 pound tuna, such as yellowfin, bluefin, or Bigeye, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks Kosher salt
Zest of half lemon, removed with a peeler in fat strips
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1⁄2 teaspoon
crushed red pepper flakes
1⁄4 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
Generously season the tuna on all sides with salt. Cover and refrigerate for
2 to 3 hours, or up to 1 day.
Fit the tuna snuggly in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan (the smaller the pot, the
less oil you will need) with the lemon, bay leaves, garlic, peppercorns,
pepper flakes, and fennel seeds. Add the oil until it just covers the tuna.
Bring the oil to a very gentle simmer over low heat, and continue to cook
ever so gently, swirling the pan occasionally to move the aromatics and
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grain, bread & pasta salads 135
continued from page xx
oil around, until the tuna is firm and just slightly pink inside (it will
continue to carry as it cools), about 20 minutes. Remove the pan from
the heat. Carefully remove the tuna from the oil and transfer to a plate.
Set the tuna and the oil aside to cool at room temperature. When both the
tuna and the oil are room temperature, transfer the tuna to a tight-fitting
container and pour the oil on top (you want the oil to cover the tuna; add
more if necessary). Leave the tuna at room temperature if using day-of or
refrigerate.
To use, remove as much tuna as needed and scrape off the excess oil,
lemon zest, and black peppercorns. Separate the tuna into flakes with your
fingers, and, if chilled, let it come to room temperature before using.
Make sure the remainder of tuna in the container is covered with oil
before returning it to the refrigerator. The tuna will keep for 1 to 2 weeks.
136 grain, bread & pasta salads
quinoa, red pepper & cucumber
salad with avocado and lime
Kosher salt
31⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime
Small to medium cucumber, peeled and
1 cup quinoa
juice; more as needed
seeded if necessary and cut into 1⁄4-inch
dice (to yield about 1 cup)
1
1 clove garlic, pounded to a paste with
⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
1
a pinch of salt
olive oil
⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro,
plus leafy sprigs for garnish
1 large shallot, finely diced
1 medium red pepper, halved, seeded,
and finely diced
2 or 3 ripe avocados, sliced (see p. XX)
1 jalapeño, seeded and finely diced
add SubStance
At a recent catering event, one of the cooks told me that quinoa is a “friend of salsa”
To add a little extra protein, tuck a few
and is particularly good with peppers. That’s what inspired this salad—basically a quickly sautéed shrimp here and there.
red pepper and cucumber salsa folded into quinoa and spooned on top of sliced
avocado.
To help keep the grains separate, boil the quinoa in lots of boiling water, like pasta baSic SkillS
and rice, and spread it out on a baking sheet to cool.
To seed a jalapeño, lay the pepper
on its side on a cutting board. Using a
ServeS 4 to 6
sharp knife, cut just to the right of the
stem and along one side of the pepper,
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt—it should taste almost
removing just the flesh, not the seeds.
like seawater. Rinse the quinoa under cool running water, lightly rubbing
Rotate the pepper a quarter turn and
the grains between your fingers for a few seconds, then add to the water
slice again. Continue to turn and slice
and cook until tender with just a hint of crunch, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain
until you have four seedless slices.
well and spread out on a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool at room
Discard the seeds and core.
temperature.
Put the garlic, shallot, jalapeño, and lime juice in a small bowl. Season
with salt and stir to combine. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Add 1⁄2 cup of oil and whisk to combine. Taste and add more salt or lime juice if necessary.
Put the quinoa, red pepper, cucumber, and chopped cilantro in a
medium bowl. Drizzle about half of the vinaigrette into the bowl and
gently fold to combine. Taste and add more salt or vinaigrette if necessary.
Or, add a squeeze more lime juice if needed.
Arrange the sliced avocado on a platter or individual serving plates
(allowing at least half of an avocado per person). Season the avocado with
salt and drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the top. Spoon the quinoa
salad on and around the avocado. Garnish with several leafy sprigs of
cilantro and serve immediately.
grain, bread & pasta salads 137
KS_TP_Fttsh_98.tif
fattoush
4 pita breads (6 to 7 inches round)
3 medium-size, ripe, fragrant tomatoes,
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
cut into 1⁄
1⁄
2-inch dice or jewels
2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin
1 heart of romaine, about 91⁄2 ounces,
olive oil
1 medium cucumber, peeled if desired,
cut or torn into 1- to 2-inch pieces and
Kosher salt
and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice or jewels
washed and dried
(to yield about 2 cups)
1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
Freshly ground black pepper
1
paste with a pinch of salt
⁄2 cup sliced scallions (green and white
Sumac, for sprinkling (optional)
parts only) cut 1⁄4 inch thick at an angle
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; more
1
as needed
⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
add SubStance
This is one of my favorite summer salads. It’s simple but needs to be timed just right Serve with grilled chicken breast or
because there is a short window when the salad is perfectly delicious—when some of lamb. Crumbled feta is a nice addition
the bread is moist from the vegetables and vinaigrette but the bulk of the pita is crisp.
as wel .
Toss everything together and serve it immediately. By time you settle in at the table, fork in hand, it’ll be just right.
ServeS 4
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Split the pita breads in half horizontally (the bread should naturally
separate into 2 thin disks), and then tear the bread into rustic 2- to
3-inch pieces. Divide the pita evenly among 2 baking sheets, and drizzle
about 11⁄2 tablespoons olive oil on each pan. Lightly toss the pita to coat
well, spread out to an even layer, and sprinkle with salt. Toast the bread in
the oven until crisp and golden, about 12 minutes. Set aside to cool.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, lemon juice, and a pinch of
salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup of olive oil.
Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more lemon juice
or salt if necessary.
Just before you are ready to serve, put the tomatoes, cucumber, scallions,
parsley, mint, and romaine in a large work bowl, and season with salt and
a few twists of pepper. Toss lightly to combine, then taste and
add more
salt if necessary. Add the pita and gently toss the salad with just enough
vinaigrette to coat. Taste and add more salt if necessary. With a delicate
hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates. Drizzle
any remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad. Sprinkle with sumac,
if desired, and serve immediately.
grain, bread & pasta salads 139
barley salad with skirt steak
and muscat grapes
1 shallot, finely grated
Pinch of allspice
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar; more as
11⁄2 pounds skirt steak, cold
Coarsely ground black pepper
needed
11⁄2 cups barley
1⁄2 pound Muscat grapes, halved
11⁄2 teaspoons sumac; more for sprinkling
Kosher salt
11⁄2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley
21⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds, lightly
1 large clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
toasted and coarsely ground
paste with a pinch of salt
This recipe was adapted from one in the Moro cookbook (if you don’t have it, I recommend it.) The combination of barley, beef, and grapes is surprisingly good, but the tangy sumac and other spices the take this salad to another level. It’s delicious.
You can use farro in place of the barley and any sweet grape if you can’t find muscat.
To grill the skirt steak, see p. XX.
ServeS 4
Combine the shallot, 11⁄2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 1⁄2 teaspoons sumac,
11⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds, and a generous pinch of allspice in a
small bowl. Cut the skirt steak into about 6-inch lengths and rub with
the marinade. Cover and return the steaks to the refrigerator to marinate
until shortly before you are ready to cook, ideally for at least an hour or
two or overnight. (Skirt steak is thin, so you want the beef cold when you
cook it to prevent it from overcooking before it browns.)
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Season with a generous amount of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the barley, reduce the heat to
maintain a low boil, and cook until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well
and spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool at
room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic and the remaining 11⁄2
tablespoons vinegar in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk
in 1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons oil. Taste and add more salt or vinegar
if necessary.
140 grain, bread & pasta salads