Shortly before cooking, season the beef with salt and coarsely ground black pepper. Warm a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until very hot. Add
the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and place the beef in the pan without
overlapping. (If necessary, cook the beef in two batches.) Cook until the
beef is nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook on the opposite
side until medium rare, 1 to 2 minutes more; cooking time will vary
depending on the thickness of the meat. (Reduce the heat to medium high
to finish cooking thicker sections of the meat.) Transfer to a plate and let
rest for about 5 minutes.
Put the barley in a large work bowl. Add the grapes and parsley, season
with salt, and drizzle the vinaigrette on top. Gently toss to combine.
Taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Thinly slice the meat
against the grain. Gently toss half of the meat in the salad, along with any
juices that have collected on the plate. Spoon the salad onto a platter or
individual plates and arrange the remaining beef on top. Sprinkle with
the remaining coriander seeds and a generous pinch of sumac on top.
Serve immediately.
grain, bread & pasta salads 141
couscous salad with
grilled eggplant and
cumin vinaigrette
1 cup Israeli couscous
1 small, ripe, fragrant tomato
1⁄2 pound globe eggplant, about 1 large or
Kosher salt
2 medium cloves garlic, pounded to a
2 small, cut crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-
thick slices
2 cups couscous
smooth paste with a pinch of salt
1
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon red-wine
⁄3 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive
1
oil; more as needed
vinegar; more as needed
⁄3 cup fresh cilantro leaves
1
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
11⁄2 teaspoons cumin seed, toasted and
⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
coarsely ground
Crushed red pepper flakes
add SubStance
This salad is perfectly suited for warm, summer weather when you can’t bear to turn Serve with grilled lamb or swordfish.
on the oven. I like the combination of traditional couscous and Israeli couscous—the Other gril ed vegetables, such as
larger grains of Israeli couscous add a nice change of texture. Steamed couscous is a peppers or zucchini, are an option
little fluffier, but this method—simply drizzling it with hot water and letting it swell—is as wel .
much quicker and perfectly fine when you’re dressing the couscous with vinaigrette.
Look for firm, shiny eggplant. Be sure to cut it into nice, thick slices and be patient at the grill. You want rich, charcoal brown grill marks.
I like this salad with a dollop of yogurt spiked with a little harrisa (see p. XX). You can also add crumbled feta.
ServeS 6
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or gas grill.
Bring 11⁄4 cups water to a boil in a small pot. Add the Israeli couscous
and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Cover, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until
tender, about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain well and set aside.
Put the 2 cups couscous in a shallow baking dish (about 9 inches square).
In a small pot, bring 1 cup water to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt. (I use
kosher salt; if using sea salt, use a little less.) Pour the boiling water over the couscous, and immediately cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap.
Let swell for about 12 minutes. Transfer the couscous to a large work bowl.
Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil over the couscous and, using your fingers,
lightly rub it into the couscous to break up any clumps and fluff the grains.
Add the Israeli couscous to the bowl, and fluff again with your fingers to
combine. Set aside at room temperature.
continued on page xx
142 grain, bread & pasta salads
KS_TP_CousCs_11.tif
continued from page xx
Warm a medium-size sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1⁄4 cup olive oil,
the onion, and a generous pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt,
and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is caramelized and dark
brown, 15 to 20 minutes. (You’ll need to stir the onion more frequently
when it begins to darken, so it browns evenly.) Transfer to a paper-towel-
lined plate to drain.
To make the vinaigrette, cut the tomato in half. Put a box grater in a
medium bowl (or in a bowl comfortable enough to grate in) and grate the
cut side of the tomato halves against the largest holes. Discard the tomato
skin. Add the garlic, vinegar, cumin, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine
and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄4 cup olive oil.
Taste and add a little more salt or vinegar if necessary.
Brush both sides of the eggplant with olive oil and season with salt. Grill
over a medium-hot fire until the eggplant is golden brown and marked
from the grill; be patient and wait for 3 to 4 minutes before you move
the eggplant, so you end up with nice, charcoal-brown grill marks. Turn
the eggplant and grill on the opposite side until the eggplant is soft and
tender, about 4 more minutes. Remove from the grill and set aside at
room temperature. When cool enough to handle, cut the eggplant into
1⁄2-inch-wide strips or 1⁄2-inch squares.
Add the caramelized onion to the bowl of couscous and lightly toss to
combine. Taste and add more salt, vinegar, or olive oil if necessary.
Add the eggplant and herbs, and toss once more. Spoon the salad onto
a platter or individual plates. Serve at room temperature.
144 grain, bread & pasta salads
cracked wheat salad with
wilted radicchio and raisins
2 cups cracked wheat, rinsed under
3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
cool running water
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
Kosher salt
2 shallots, finely diced
parsley
2 medium heads radicchio, about
1⁄2 cup raisins
11⁄4 pounds
add SubStance
I enjoy this salad with roast chicken or lamb chops, and the vinaigrette is even better For vegetarians who want a bit more
if you add drippings from the roast chicken. Pour off the fat, then warm the vinaigrette substance, sprinkle crumbled feta on
in the roasting pan just before you add it to the salad.
top (it’s a great addition with the meat
ServeS 6 to 8
as wel ).
Heat the oven to 450°F.
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Season with a generous amount of
salt—it should take almost like seawater—and add the wheat. Reduce the
heat to maintain a low boil, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain
well, transfer to a large work bowl, and set aside at room temperature.
Trim the root end of the radicchio and tear off any bruised or damaged
outer leaves. Cut the radicchio into 2-inch-wide wedges, and put on a
baking sheet. Drizzle with 1⁄4 cup oil and 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar,
and season with s
alt; toss lightly to coat. Spread the wedges in an even
layer and roast in the oven until the radicchio is wilted and golden brown,
about 15 minutes. Set aside at room temperature. When cool enough
to handle, cut off the root end of the wedges, and then cut each wedge
crosswise into about 1⁄2-inch pieces. Set aside.
Put the shallot and raisins in a small bowl. Warm the remaining 3 tablespoons
balsamic vinegar and red-wine vinegar in small sauté pan. Pour the vinegar
on top of the shallot and raisins, and season with salt. Let sit for 10 minutes.
Whisk in the remaining 1⁄2 cup oil. Taste and add more salt or vinegar if
necessary. (If the vinaigrette needs more acid, use red-wine vinegar.)
Add the radicchio and parsley to the cracked wheat. Drizzle the vinaigrette
on top and fold gently to combine. Taste and add more salt or vinegar
(add more balsamic if you want to add more sweetness) if necessary. Spoon
the salad onto a platter or individual plates and serve.
grain, bread & pasta salads 145
brown rice salad with
pomegranate, celery & herbs
Kosher salt
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced crosswise
1⁄2 cup green olives, such as Lucques
1
at a slight angle (to yield about 1 cup)
or Picholine, rinsed well, pitted, and
1⁄2 cups short-grain brown rice
coarsely chopped
1
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice;
⁄2 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and
1
more as needed
green parts only
⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1⁄
1⁄
2 cup pomegranate seeds
4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more
1
as needed
⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
add SubStance
To seed pomegranates, simply split them open over a bowl and remove the seeds.
Serve with fish, chicken, or lamb,
Together with the celery and olives, they provide a bold note to the earthy brown rice particularly lamb chops cooked hot
(use Arborio or Carnaroli rice in place of the brown rice if you prefer). This salad is and fast and lightly brushed with
especially good with a generous dollop of yogurt sauce (see p. XX.)
pomegranate molasses (see p. XX).
ServeS 4
It’s also good with crumbled feta
or goat cheese.
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt—it should taste
almost like seawater. Add the rice and cook until the grains are slightly al
dente, about 20 minutes. Drain well, and spread the rice on a parchment-
lined baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the lemon juice and a pinch of salt in
a small bowl. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if
necessary.
Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss it
lightly with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the celery, scallions,
pomegranate seeds, olives, and herbs, and season with salt. Drizzle the
vinaigrette on top and toss lightly to combine. Taste and add more salt,
lemon juice, and/or olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a shallow platter
or individual serving plates. Serve at room temperature.
146 grain, bread & pasta salads
farro salad with broccoli rabe
and poached egg
3⁄4 cup farro
1⁄4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin
11⁄2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon red-wine
Kosher salt
olive oil, plus more for drizzling
vinegar; more as needed
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 to 4 very fresh eggs
3⁄4 pound broccoli rabe
Aleppo pepper, for sprinkling
add SubStance
This salad is delicious for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It’s easy to make (particularly Sauté bacon or pancetta and add to
if you have cooked farro on hand), healthy, and satisfying. To add more spice, fold the salad or drape prosciutto on the
preserved Calabrian chiles or pickled chiles (see p. XX) into the farro in place of finished plate.
the Aleppo pepper. If you’re an anchovy fan, add some chopped anchovy to the
sauté pan along with the garlic. In place of the broccoli rabe, try roasted broccoli or cauliflower. Or prepare the salad without the eggs and add a handful of tiny cubes of aged or fresh pecorino.
For company, make farro on the day of the meal and hold at room temperature
before serving. Cook extra to store in the refrigerator for quick meals and let it return to room temperature before combining with the other ingredients for the salad.
ServeS 2 to 4
Bring a medium pot of water (about 21⁄2 quarts) to a boil. Season with
a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Add the
farro, reduce the heat to maintain a low boil, and cook until tender, 20
to 25 minutes. Drain well and spread on a baking sheet to cool at room
temperature.
Trim the stems of the broccoli rabe. The stems should be tender and
crisp, and not at all woody; trim off as much as necessary. Cut the
remaining stems crosswise into 1⁄2-inch segments, and slice the leafy
greens into about 1-inch-wide ribbons. Wash and drain the brocolli rabe,
but leave a good amount of water clinging to the leaves.
Warm a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive
oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add the broccoli rabe in large handfuls.
When the rabe has wilted, season it with salt, reduce the heat to medium,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender. The residual water from
washing should be enough to cook the rabe, but if the pan dries out before
it is cooked, add a splash more water as necessary. The cooking time will
vary depending on the texture of the greens; tender broccoli rabe will cook
continued on page xx
grain, bread & pasta salads 147
KS_TP_FrroRabe_18.tif
continued from page xx
in about 4 minutes; more fibrous rabe can take up to 12 minutes. When
the broccoli rabe is done, push it to the side to clear a space in the center
of the pan, add a tablespoon of oil and the garlic, and sauté just until you
smell the garlic, about 1 minute. (The garlic tastes best if it sautés quickly, directly on the pan, rather than on the greens.) Stir the broccoli rabe into
the garlic and remove from the heat.
Put the farro and broccoli rabe in a large work bowl. Put 1 1⁄2 tablespoons
vinegar in a small bowl and season with salt. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄4 cup
olive oil. Drizzle the vinaigrette on the farro and broccoli rabe, and stir
gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt or vinegar
if necessary. Set aside at room temperature.
To poach the eggs, fill a straight-sided heavy sauté pan with about 3 inches
of water, and bring to a simmer. Add the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon vinegar.
Crack the eggs, one at a time, into a teacup, and gently slide them into
the water. Gently simmer the eggs, turning once or twice, until they are
done to your liking, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water with a
slotted spoon, and
blot off any excess water with a clean, lint-free kitchen
towel. (For a neater appearance, trim the eggs as well.)
Stir the farro once more and spoon into shallow serving bowls. Prop 1 or
2 eggs next to the farro. Drizzle a thin stream of olive oil on top. Using a
fork, gently pierce one side of the yolk and fold back the thin egg white to
expose the runny yolk. Season with salt, and sprinkle the entire dish with
Aleppo pepper. Serve immediately.
grain, bread & pasta salads 149
couscous with kabocha squash,
toasted pumpkin seeds &
harissa vinaigrette
1 Kabocha squash (about 21⁄2 pounds),
4 cups couscous
1⁄4 cup Harissa (p. XX); more for
peeled, seeded, and cut into 3⁄4- to 1-inch
1 large onion, thinly sliced
serving (optional)
chunks (see sidebar location)
1 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed
11⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
lemon juice; more as needed
parsley
olive oil
2⁄3 cup pumpkin seeds
Kosher salt
add SubStance
Kabocha squash, a Japanese variety of winter squash, is a beautiful, deep-green For more substance, serve with any
color outside with a vibrant orange-yellow colored flesh inside. The rich, sweet flavor chicken, pork, or lamb.
and meaty texture pair well with the spicy harissa vinaigrette. Serve with yogurt sauce (see p. XX) on the side (in addition to a dollop of harissa). If you can’t find Kabocha, use butternut squash.
baSic SkillS
ServeS 6
To peel and cut Kabocha squash, lay
the squash on its side. Using a very
sharp knife, cut off the top and bottom,
Heat the oven to 450°F.
just enough to expose the flesh. Stand
Put the squash on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil, season
the squash on end on the cutting board.
with salt, and toss lightly to coat. Spread in an even layer and roast in the
Working from top to bottom and
oven until tender and nicely browned, about 15 minutes. Set aside at
fol owing the curve of the flesh, cut the
room temperature.
peel away from the flesh in wide strips,
slowly rotating the squash as you make
Put the couscous in a shallow baking dish. In a small pot, bring 2 cups
your way around. Trim away any peel
water to a boil, and stir in 2 teaspoons salt. Drizzle the water evenly over
Salad for Dinner Page 18