2 pounds whole, small squid (about
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced crosswise
optional)
3 inches long), or 11⁄
at a slight angle
4 pounds cleaned
small squid, cut into rings
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh
Aioli (p. XX), for serving (optional)
Kosher salt
marjoram
Cooking squid hot and fast is one of my favorite preparations. If you prefer boiled squid, simply drop cleaned squid into a pot of lightly salted water and cook until it turns white, about 1 minute. Then transfer to a bowl and season with the salt, pepper, olive oil, and red pepper flakes called for in the recipe.
Add about 4 ounces sliced Spanish chorizo to the salad for a bit more heat. When the second batch of squid is almost cooked, add the chorizo to the pan for the last minute of cooking—just enough to warm it and release some of its flavor.
The toasted breadcrumbs add a welcome crunch, but you can omit them and serve
the salad with tomato-rubbed crostini. Toast or grill thick slices of rustic bread, lightly rub with a clove of garlic, and then rub with the cut side of a halved tomato. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt, and serve alongside the salad.
ServeS 4
Drain the chickpeas, put them in a medium pot, and add water to cover
by 11⁄2 inches. Add the bay leaf and a tablespoon of oil, and bring to a boil.
Season with a generous pinch of salt, reduce the heat, and simmer gently
until the chickpeas are tender, about 1 1⁄2 hours. If the chickpeas start to
peak through the cooking liquid, add a splash more water. Remove from
the heat, set aside at room temperature, and let the chickpeas to cool
slowly in their liquid.
If using whole squid bodies, clean them following the technique on p. XX.
Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over high heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons
oil and half the squid. Season with salt and a pinch of pepper flakes.
Sauté the squid until the bodies are golden and the tentacles are nicely
continued on page xx
legume salads 177
continued from page xx
caramelized, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Be careful as you cook
the squid as it tends to pop. Transfer the squid to a bowl and return the
pan to the stovetop over medium heat. Add about 3 tablespoons of the
chickpea cooking liquid (or water if using canned chickpeas) to the hot
pan, and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the caramelized bits clinging
to the bottom. Add the liquid to the bowl of squid. Then rinse the pan
clean and wipe dry, return it to the stovetop over high heat, and repeat the
process with the remaining squid.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, onion, and vinegar in a
small bowl with a pinch of salt. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Whisk in the
remaining 1⁄2 cup oil. Set aside.
Drain the chickpeas and put them in a large work bowl. Add the warm
squid and its juices, the vinaigrette, celery, marjoram, and parsley. Fold
gently to combine. Taste for salt and vinegar, and adjust as necessary. If
you want a little more spice, add cayenne to taste.
Just before serving, lightly toss the frisée in a small bowl with a squeeze
of fresh lemon juice (about 1 tablespoon) and a pinch of salt. Taste and
add more lemon or salt if necessary. Scatter the frisée on a platter or
individual serving plates and spoon the chickpea and squid on and around
the greens. Sprinkle the toasted breadcrumbs on top, if using. Finish each
plate with a dollop of aioli, or pass at the table, and serve immediately.
178 legume salads
edamame with beets, scallions
& ginger vinaigrette
Kosher salt
Pinch of sugar
4 ounces, washed and dried
2 cups frozen shelled edamame
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons flavorless oil,
6 small to medium beets, roasted (see p.
1 shallot, finely diced
such as vegetable oil
XX), peeled, pickled (see p. XX), and cut
into 1⁄
1
4-inch-thick rounds (coins)
2
⁄
1⁄
4 cup thinly sliced scallions (white and
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
green parts only) cut at an angle
Black sesame seeds, for sprinkling
31⁄2 tablespoons rice vinegar; more as
(optional)
needed
4 handfuls baby Asian greens, such as
Mizuna, mustard, and Tat Soi, about
add SubStance
We always have edamame in the freezer and pickled beets on hand, so this salad Tuck a few seared scallops here and
comes together quickly in my house. For a spicy ginger vinaigrette, add finely diced there, or serve with slow-roasted salmon
jalapeño or sliced Thai chile to the shallot and ginger mixture.
(see p. XX) or seared tuna (see p. XX).
Asian greens are fairly common in most supermarkets, so you should be able to
find a number of varieties. I especially like mizuna, a delicate Japanese mustard green with long, graceful leaves, baby mustard, and Tat soi. If you can’t find Asian greens, arugula is a good substitute.
ServeS 4
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season generously with salt—it
should taste almost like seawater. Add the edamame and boil until the
beans are tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well, and spread the beans out
on a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, ginger, vinegar, sugar, and
a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the
oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and add more salt, vinegar, or a pinch more
sugar if necessary.
Just before serving, put the edamame and scallions in a medium work
bowl. Season with salt and toss with just enough vinaigrette to coat lightly.
Taste and add more salt if necessary. Put the Asian greens in a separate
medium work bowl, season with salt, and dress with just enough vinaigrette
to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt if necessary.
Dot the beet slices around a platter or individual serving plates. Spoon
the edamame on and around the beets. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette
around the platter or plates, focusing on the beets. Sprinkle with black
sesame, and top with a handful of greens. Serve immediately.
legume salads 179
butter beans with
chorizo and tomato
21⁄2 cups dry butter beans, washed, picked
1 large clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
over, and soaked overnight in cool water
paste with a pinch of salt
parsley
(or 6 cups cooked and drained butter
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sherry
3 tablespoons roughly chopped marjoram
beans, at room temperature)
vinegar; more as needed
8 ounces mild or spicy dry chorizo,
1 bay leaf
1 pint ripe cherry tomatoes, such as
halved lengthwise, and cut into 1⁄4-inch-
1⁄2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin
Sweet 100s, halved
thick slices
olive oil; more as needed
I try keep a stick of dry
chorizo or salami picante in the refrigerator (it comes in handy for all kinds of dishes) and we grow cherry tomatoes in the summer, so I frequently make myself this salad for lunch with leftover cooked beans. It’s simple and satisfying.
Butter beans are big, plump white beans. In our area we can get them both fresh and freshly dried at the farmer’s market. I use them more than any other bean. If you can’t find butter beans, substitute with cannellini beans or another large white bean.
You can also use chickpeas or lentils in place of the beans. If your chorizo is mild, add a pinch of cayenne or a sprinkle of Aleppo pepper.
ServeS 4 to 6
Drain the beans, put them in a medium pot, and add enough water to cover
by 1 1⁄2 inches. Add the bay leaf and a tablespoon of oil and bring to a boil.
Season with a generous pinch of salt, reduce the heat, and simmer gently until the beans are tender, about 11⁄2 hours. If the beans start to peak through the cooking liquid, add a splash more water. Remove from the heat, set aside at
room temperature, and let the beans to cool slowly in their liquid.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic and vinegar in a small bowl.
Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup oil. Taste and adjust the
vinaigrette with more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.
Drain the beans well. (You should have about 6 cups.) Put the beans,
tomatoes, and herbs in a large work bowl, and season with salt. Drizzle
the vinaigrette on top and gently toss the salad to combine. Taste and add
more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.
Warm a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the remaining
2 tablespoons oil and the chorizo in a single layer. Quickly brown the
chorizo on both sides, about 2 minutes, and immediately add it and any
pan drippings (or as much as you like) to the work bowl. Gently toss to
combine, and taste once more for salt, vinegar, and oil. Spoon the salad
onto a platter or individual serving plates and serve immediately.
180 legume salads
KS_TP_BtrBean_43.tif
fresh cranberry bean salad with
broccoli rabe and warm pancetta
5 cups shucked fresh shelling beans
Kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
(about 5 pounds in the pod), such as
1 pound broccoli rabe
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
cranberry beans
Four 1⁄4-inch-thick slices pancetta
31⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
(about 6 ounces), cut crosswise into
more as needed
olive oil; more as needed
1⁄4-inch-wide strips
1 cup toasted breadcrumbs (see p. XX;
1 bay leaf
optional)
add SubStance
We grow cranberry beans in the garden every year. This past year, when faced with Serve with poached eggs or chicken.
a huge bowl of shucked beans and no time to cook them, I bagged them raw and put them in the freezer. The beans held up better in the freezer raw than cooked, and it was easy to scoop as much as I needed out of the bag and return the rest to the freezer. Try it—you can enjoy flavor, texture, and convenience (no soaking and quick cooking) of fresh shelling beans for several months.
ServeS 4
Put the beans in a heavy medium pot. Add water to cover by 1 inch, add 1
tablespoon oil and the bay leaf, and season with a generous pinch of salt.
Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook until the
beans are tender and creamy, about 30 minutes. If the beans start to peak
through the cooking liquid, add a splash more water. Taste for salt and set
aside to cool at room temperature. You can refrigerate the beans for up
to 2 days at this point; return them to room temperature before finishing
the salad.
Trim the stems of the broccoli rabe. The stems should be tender and
crisp, so trim off as much as necessary. Cut the remaining stems crosswise
into 1⁄2-inch segments, and slice the leafy greens into about 1-inch-wide
ribbons. Wash and drain the broccoli rabe, but leave a good amount of
water clinging to the leaves.
Warm a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons
oil, swirl to coat the pan, and add the broccoli rabe in large handfuls.
When the broccoli rabe has wilted, season it with salt, reduce the heat to
medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender. The residual water
from washing should be enough to cook the broccoli rabe, but if the pan
continued on page xx
182 legume salads
KS_TP_CrnBryBn_82.tif
continued from page xx
gets dry and begins to scorch, add a splash more water. The cooking time will
vary depending on the texture of the greens; tender broccoli rabe will cook
in about 4 minutes, more fibrous rabe can take up to 12 minutes. When the
broccoli rabe is done (be sure to cook off any excess water), transfer it to a large work bowl. Set aside at room temperature to cool briefly.
Remove the bay leaf from the beans, drain the beans well, and add them to
the broccoli rabe; gently toss to combine.
Put 1⁄4 cup water in a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the pancetta.
When it starts to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium low (you want it to render slowly), and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is golden and
lightly crisp, about 12 minutes. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon
and transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Set aside.
You should have about 2 tablespoons fat in the pan. Return the pan to
the stovetop over medium heat and add the remaining 6 tablespoons oil.
(You want a total of 1⁄2 cup of fat; add more oil if needed.) When the oil is
warm, add the garlic and a generous pinch of pepper flakes, and cook just
until you smell the garlic, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, whisk
in the vinegar, and season with salt. Pour the vinaigrette over the beans
and broccoli rabe, add the pancetta, and gently fold to combine. Taste and
add more salt, vinegar, or oil if needed. Spoon the salad onto a platter
or individual plates. Finish the salad with a drizzle of olive oil. Scatter the breadcrumbs on top, if desired, and serve immediately.
184 legume salads
lentil salad with
gypsy peppers and feta
1 1⁄2 cups green lentils, picked over
1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne
1 small red onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
1⁄4 cup red-wine vinegar; more if needed
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
Kosher salt
parsley
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for
1 large clove garlic, pounded to a
drizzling
2 tablespoons roughly chopped
smooth paste with a pinch of salt
3 medium Gypsy peppers or 2 red bell
fresh oregano
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
peppers (about 15 ounces), seeded and
2 to 4 ounces feta, preferably
and coarsely ground
cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
French goat’s milk
add SubStance
This salad benefits from being prepared in advance so the flavors have time to Serve with grilled chicken or lamb.
mingle and the peppers and onions soften a bit. Be sure to add the herbs and feta just before serving.
> Any type of feta will do, but French goat’s milk feta is particularly creamy and delicious. Barrel-aged Greek feta has a more assertive flavor, but it’s very good as wel .
ServeS 4
Put the lentils and bay leaf in a medium pot and cover with water by
2 inches. Bring to a boil and season with a generous pinch of salt. Reduce
the heat, and simmer gently until the lentils are tender but not mushy
(you want them to retain their shape), 20 to 30 minutes, depending
on the age of the lentils. If the lentils start to peak through the cooking
liquid, add a splash more water. When done, pour the lentils and their
cooking liquid into a large, shallow container. Taste and add more salt if
necessary. Set aside at room temperature, and let the lentils cool slowly in
their liquid. You can refrigerate the lentils for up to 2 days at this point;
return them to room temperature before serving.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, cumin, cayenne, vinegar, and
a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil.
Taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary.
Drain the lentils well. Put the lentils, peppers, and onion in a large work
bowl. Season with salt, drizzle the vinaigrette on top, and toss gently to
combine. Taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Let sit for at
least 20 to 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.
Just before serving, add the herbs, toss gently to combine, and taste
once more for salt and acid. Spoon the salad onto a platter or individual
serving plates. Crumble the feta on top, and finish with a thin drizzle of
oil. Serve immediately.
legume salads 185
KS_TP_CnlniFva_22.tif
cannellini and fava beans
with spring onions
2 cups dry cannellini beans, washed,
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced crosswise
picked over, and soaked overnight in
more as needed
at a slight angle
cool water (or 41⁄2 cups drained cooked
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
cannellini beans, at room temperature)
juice
parsley
1 bay leaf
1⁄2 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh
1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin
1
marjoram
1⁄2 cups shelled fava beans, blanched and
Salad for Dinner Page 22