The first thing to know is that dashboard symbols are generally color-coded. This helps you gauge the seriousness of the issue. Here’s how it breaks down:
Red light means stop. Red lights indicate serious problems or safety issues that need to be dealt with immediately. Depending on the light, you might be driving yourself to a mechanic immediately or literally pulling over and getting yourself a tow.
Yellow light means slow down. Yellow lights generally indicate issues that should be checked out very soon—but sometimes they just mean that a particular system is activated.
Green or blue light means go. Green or blue lights mean functions are on or activated.
Symbols That Require Immediate Action
A red light doesn’t necessarily mean you should panic and trade in your car, but it does require an immediate response.
Brake. First, check to see whether you’ve inadvertently left your emergency or parking brake on. If not, something is going on with your brakes. You may feel the brake pedal become easier to push and/or drop to the floor. But even if you don’t feel anything, pull over and check your brake fluid level (see page 165). If the fluid is very low, call for a tow. If you continue to drive with this light on, you could wind up driving without brakes.
Charging System. This light indicates that your battery is not being charged. Your vehicle is likely to shut off unexpectedly and will probably need to be towed. If this light comes on, get your car to a mechanic immediately.
Oil Pressure. Your oil pressure (not the same thing as your oil level) is low. Not having proper oil pressure means oil isn’t getting to the engine, which risks causing it serious damage. Shut off your vehicle immediately and check the oil level (see page 111). If your dipstick reads either “low” or “min,” add at least 1 quart of oil. Get your vehicle checked out as soon as possible. If you can’t get to a mechanic within a five- to ten-minute drive, call for a tow.
Coolant Temperature. Red: Your engine temperature is too high. Shut off your vehicle as soon as safely possible and check the coolant level (see page 115). Do not remove the radiator cap while the engine is still hot. If the coolant level is low, add coolant. If your engine continues to overheat, get to a nearby mechanic or call for a tow.
Blue: Your engine temperature is too low. The most likely cause is a malfunctioning thermostat, and the engine won’t run properly until this problem is fixed. Get to a mechanic as soon as you can.
Doors. One or more doors or compartments, including the hood and trunk lid, is not entirely shut.
Power Steering. There is a problem in your power steering system. Get this checked out ASAP. Without power steering, you will not be able to control your car. If you can’t get to a mechanic within a five- to ten-minute drive, call for a tow.
Symbols That Will Require Action Soon but Are Not Necessarily Serious
There’s no sense in procrastinating when these lights come on, but there’s also no cause for alarm.
Check-Engine Light or Maintenance Indicator Light. The check-engine light comes on when your car is burning fuel inefficiently, but it shouldn’t be cause for panic. Your engine may be using too much gas or may not be burning the gas properly, causing hazardous pollutants to be released into the environment. A check-engine light can mean there’s some kind of complex issue going on, but it can also be the result of something as simple as the gas cap not being screwed on tight enough. It does not necessarily always involve the engine itself. It does mean that you’ll have to take the vehicle to your mechanic, who will use a computer to scan the onboard diagnostics and retrieve the trouble code, also known as a P code (for powertrain code). This code will help the mechanic diagnose why the vehicle is burning fuel inefficiently.
If the check-engine/maintenance indicator light is flashing, as opposed to steady, you could be causing damage to the engine or to other parts of your car. Shut the vehicle off as soon as safely possible and call for a tow. Do not drive the vehicle with the check-engine light flashing.
Tire Pressure. A handy sensor attached to your tire pressure valve will let you know when tire pressure dips to an unsafe level. The average tire pressure for a passenger vehicle is 33 psi, so this light will come on when one or more tires clocks in at around 28 psi or lower. This symbol will remain lit until the tire is filled.
This light will not come on if the tire pressure is too high, so it’s up to you to make sure that you aren’t putting too much air in your tires when you fill them. Another thing to note is that dramatic changes in outside temperature will cause pressure in your tires to drop. If you suspect that’s the case but the symbol remains lit after you have driven your vehicle for a few miles, get to a gas or service station and try adding air.
If this light is flashing, as opposed to steady, one of the sensors that measures tire pressure is malfunctioning.
Antilock Brakes System (ABS). Antilock brakes are safety features that prevent one or more of your wheels from locking up, causing your vehicle to slide when you brake. If ABS is compromised, your brakes should still work normally under most conditions. If you do not choose to get this fixed right away, be extra-careful when driving in rain, ice, or snow. To learn all about ABS, see page 162.
If the ABS and ESC (see below) lights come on simultaneously, have the car checked ASAP for a potential safety issue.
Electronic Stability Control (ESC). This function, which can also be labeled VSC (vehicle stability control), helps prevent cars, particularly SUVs, from spinning out or flipping over when driving on winding roads or making sharp turns. A slash through the symbol means the system is not functioning at all.
Air Bags. SRS stands for supplemental restraint system—which is just a fancy term for air bag. When illuminated, this symbol means that one or more air bags is not working and will not activate during an accident. Air bag replacement can be an expensive repair, so how urgently you treat this indicator depends on your personal tolerance for risk.
Parking or Emergency Brake. This light will come on while the parking brake is engaged, and stay lit until that brake is released. If this light is illuminated along with the brake light and your parking brake is not engaged, it is an indication of a brake system failure, which needs immediate attention.
Seat Belts. Someone isn’t wearing their seat belt. (This symbol is generally accompanied by a loud beeping.)
Maintenance or Service. An oil change or maintenance-required light means you need an oil change, along with other possible routine maintenance items, depending on how many miles the car has been driven. Note: This light should be reset after the service is performed.
Low Fuel/Gas. When this light comes on, it’s time to fill up. Always keep your gas above a quarter tank or you could burn out the fuel pump (see page 83).
Cruise Control. This light indicates that your vehicle’s cruise control is activated.
Lights. Yellow: A headlight is out. Green or Blue: Headlights, high beams, or fog lights are on, or automatic headlights (present only on some cars) are engaged and will respond to light conditions without you needing to turn them on or off.
Your Primary Care Technician
Most of us see a PCP (primary care physician) for our annual checkup instead of hopping around from doctor to doctor. And we should do the same for our cars, twice a year and whenever they need care. After all, technicians are the auto doctors. But one of the biggest mistakes car owners make is jumping around from mechanic to mechanic in hopes of finding the lowest price or the most convenient location—or, worse, the diagnosis they want to hear. Bad idea. Shop-hopping will make it hard for you to gauge your car’s health and to track your service and repair history . . . and leave you more likely to make bad decisions or fall into the clutches of a poorly trained mechanic. The kind of mechanic who may save you money in the short term but will wind up costing you lots more in the future.
A car has thousands of moving parts, an intricate internal communication system, and a strong frame to support its load. And when a
ny part of that system breaks down, you should put it in the trusted hands of what I call a primary care technician—your PCT.
Don’t Wait for an Emergency
Don’t wait until puffs of white smoke start coming out from under your hood to figure out where to take your baby. You wouldn’t trust your medical care to the random doctor you passed on your way home from work the week you came down with the flu, would you? But that’s exactly how many of us treat our cars. Unless you already have a technician you trust, make it a priority to find one before your next scheduled maintenance appointment. You made the multi-thousand-dollar investment to buy your car, so spend some time finding your PCT.
FYI, technician is the official term for mechanic now, and I’ll be using these two words interchangeably throughout this book. When you see the words auto tech, think mechanic, and vice versa. And even though I refer to your PCT as a single person, you’re likely to be dealing with a few different individuals at a shop or dealership. Think of the shop as a doctor’s office where you can be seen by several qualified technicians.
How to Find a PCT (Primary Care Technician)
Most people choose their mechanics either through word of mouth or based on location. I’m going to log a strong vote for going with referrals, but not just any referral. Start by asking your female friends which auto mechanics they trust and feel comfortable with. Give a shout on the #shecanic Facebook community, where recommendations are constantly flying back and forth. Or check sites like womenautoknow.com or askpatty.com. The reason I started Girls Auto Clinic was that men have very different experiences in the automotive industry than women do. It’s worth checking up on your referrals on sites like Yelp, but know that most auto shops don’t tend to have many reviews. Reviews can be extremely subjective, so I’m always skeptical unless there are a lot of them.
Does Certification Matter?
You don’t have to complete a two-year trade program to work on cars at a repair facility, and some great mechanics learn on the job. But as the technology inside our cars becomes more and more involved, a degree can help school mechanics on some of the latest developments.
Similarly, an ASE (Automative Service Excellence) certification isn’t a prerequisite for working on cars, or necessarily an indication of talent. (Many mechanics are great with a wrench, not so good at test taking.) There are eight main certification tests, and passing all eight makes you a “master tech.” You have to keep taking the tests every five years to stay current on your certifications, and many independent shops don’t keep up with those requirements and/or can’t pay master techs the higher wages they demand. But I see certifications as signs that mechanics are committed to staying on top of changing technology, so if you’re making the choice between two PCTs and one has a certification, I say go for it—though in my opinion, referrals and good reviews trump ASEs. Most people don’t realize it, but you can always ask if a shop hires ASE technicians.
How to Assess a PCT
Most car owners would list service, price, reliability, and quick turnaround as qualities they look for in a mechanic. Let’s add communication and respect to that list. Do you feel respected as a customer? Are your cares and concerns acknowledged and addressed? It is your right to expect a level of customer service you feel comfortable with.
To find out if a potential PCT is the right fit for you, use these pointers to assess your comfort level and his or her suitability.
A great PCT should be friendly and patient. He or she should listen to your concerns, clearly communicate a plan for diagnosing, repairing, or servicing your vehicle, and ease any worries you express. You shouldn’t feel anxious or worried when talking to your PCT! Phone calls are fine, but I prefer to talk to technicians in person. You’ll get a better feel for their personality and for how they interact with their customers. Mechanics can be rough around the edges, and it’s important that you feel safe and comfortable with yours. You should never feel disrespected.
A great PCT should be easy to understand. Can the technician explain what’s going on with your car in terms you can understand? I believe this is very important. If a PCT cannot explain the diagnosis in a way that makes you feel comfortable with the repair, run. Actually, drive. As the saying goes: “If you can’t explain it to a five-year-old, you don’t understand it well enough.”
A great PCT should understand the balance between urgent and nonurgent repairs. He or she shouldn’t try to sell you everything under the sun. A PCT’s primary concerns should be that your car runs well, you are safe, and you are avoiding expensive repairs later on. A PCT should say things like “Hey, I noticed you have a small oil leak. You will want to keep an eye on it,” or “Your tire tread is looking low—save up some money because your tires will need replacing in the next three months.” You shouldn’t feel pressure to approve any nonurgent repair!
A great PCT can diagnose the root cause(s) of your car’s problems—even if it takes some time. Electrical issues and computer problems can be tricky for even the most experienced PCTs to diagnose. But if a PCT is struggling with an issue like a check-engine light or no start, or if you have to bring your car back to the shop after a repair didn’t take, you shouldn’t be charged for every little thing they do to figure it out. A trustworthy PCT is patient and thorough when diagnosing and repairing a car, and charges you a fair amount for the time and diagnostic work. There will be a charge for diagnosing your car for noise, check-engine lights, computer problems, or electrical issues, and the amount will depend on how long the PCT spent on the issue. Some diagnoses take less than ten minutes, while complex problems on newer, highly technical cars can take more than an hour to diagnose. Which is why, as cars become more computerized, it’s so important to find a smart PCT who’s skilled at diagnostics.
A great PCT should be able to admit faults and limitations. No one is perfect. Sometimes even a very good mechanic will break something or mess up a repair. Just as doctors sometimes make a mistake, so can mechanics. It happens. It doesn’t and shouldn’t happen often. But when it does, an honest PCT admits to being at fault. Likewise, a trustworthy PCT will let you know beforehand if a particular issue falls outside of his or her realm of expertise and will recommend another business or expert who can help you.
Choosing a Mechanic: Dealerships vs. Chains vs. Indies
If your car is still under warranty with its manufacturer and a few years of “free” maintenance were built into the price of your car, your PCT should be your dealership. If you didn’t select a maintenance package with a new car purchase or you drive a used or older car, you’ll need to make a decision about where to get your care. Here’s a guide to the pros and cons of visiting dealerships; chains like Jiffy Lube, Pep Boys, Firestone, and Meineke; and independent shops.
Dealerships: The Pros
+ If you purchased a maintenance package, regular maintenance visits will be free for your first few years of ownership. (For more on how to read the fine print, see page 270.) Keep in mind that maintenance packages aren’t actually free, since they’re built into the price of buying the car or priced out separately.
+ Dealerships are staffed by well-trained professionals and generally provide good, consistent customer service.
+ Dealerships offer perks like loaner cars, pick-up and drop-off services, online scheduling, and amenities such as food, fancy coffee machines, kids’ play areas, Wi-Fi, lounges, and so on. But there is a con to all these amenities—their price is passed on to you.
+ Dealerships have access to the most up-to-date technology and equipment.
+ Dealerships often offer automated service reminders and other tools to help you keep your maintenance on track.
+ Dealership technicians are highly trained to know your particular make of vehicle inside and out. If you have a European car (see page 262), you will have to go to the dealership for certain repairs.
+ Dealerships use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts, as opposed to the “aftermarket” or generic par
ts you’ll get on some repairs from independent shops or chains. If you’re at a Ford dealership, you’ll be getting a Ford part for a replacement.
+ If you run into trouble with service at a dealership, there will always be someone further up the chain (or far away in a customer service center) for you to call.
+ You’ll save yourself the time and trouble of having to research PCTs in your area.
+ Dealerships’ waiting rooms will be sparkling clean.
Dealerships: The Cons
- Servicing your car at a dealership is going to cost you—labor and parts are both much more expensive. If your warranty has expired or a repair falls outside your warranty, you’ll likely be shelling out two to three times what you’d pay at a chain or an independent shop.
- You’re likely to be dealing with a service adviser who doesn’t touch or see your car rather than directly with a mechanic—though you should definitely ask to speak directly with whoever worked on your car if you need clarification about something.
- Your service adviser will be trained at selling you on parts and services you may not need. Dealerships love to upsell customers on everything from hoses and clamps to replacements on half-worn brake pads and rotors, whereas an independent mechanic might tell you to hold off on replacing those brake pads and rotors for another six months. Remember: A great PCT doesn’t try to sell you everything under the sun. Many dealerships will, so be empowered and educated.
Girls Auto Clinic Glove Box Guide Page 4