PROBLEM: Lack of oil or oil pump failure
CAUSE: This is caused by the engine overheating.
PROBLEM: Engine noises
CAUSE: Lack of oil. A quick tapping in the engine likely means there is no oil.
TIP: Listen up, #shecanic. When it comes to your engine, noise will often be your indication of an internal issue. Take your car in to your PCT if you hear any clicking, clacking, knocking, rattling, clattering, whining, or clunking noises coming from under the hood.
Hot Stuff: Your Engine’s Cooling System
A mixture of antifreeze and water, coolant is pumped through the engine to maintain an optimal internal temperature of approximately 220 degrees Fahrenheit—still hotter than any desert on earth. Internal combustion is no joke. Temperatures inside the engine’s cylinders reach up to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit, and exhaust gas temperatures hover around 1,500 degrees. Working at such high heat would weaken internal parts and cause the engine to fail, so it must be cooled to a relatively breezy 220 degrees in order to continue to function. That job falls to the liquid coolant that is pumped through the engine. But a fluid can’t circulate on its lonesome, so here’s a list of the parts that help monitor the engine’s temperature and maintain it within a safe range.
COOLANT SYSTEM: MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS
PART
ISSUE
FIX
TIMING
COST
Coolant
Coolant picks up dirt and particles over the years. These cause clogs within the system, especially in the heater core, making the car likely to overheat
A fluid flush. There is no filter for coolant, so flushes are extremely important. If a clog can’t be flushed out, the clogged section will need to be replaced
Coolant may be discolored. Rule of thumb is three to five years—check your maintenance schedule. If the car has more than 100,000 miles, consider a drain and refill every year
$100 or less
Water Pump
The water pump can fail from wear over time, commonly leaking coolant at its connection point to the engine
If the pump is driven by the timing belt, replace both parts when either one fails
The engine will overheat
$750+
Thermostat
The valve that controls coolant flow can leak or stick open or closed. The needle on your dashboard temperature gauge will read at C or H rather than staying in the middle
Replace
The engine will overheat or won’t warm up to its optimal temperature
Varies greatly depending on the car, but most can be done for under $150
Radiator
The radiator will fail from use over time, leaking coolant and causing the car to overheat if neglected
Replace
Variable, after 80,000–100,000 miles
Look to spend at least $300
Coolant Hoses
Fail from use over time. Sometimes a hot oil or coolant leak will drip onto the rubber hoses, causing them to soften and split. Coolant can leak through a softened rubber hose
Replace
The car will overheat
$100 or less
Fan
Fails from use over time. When it does, the car will likely overheat as you idle at a light or drive at low speeds
Replace
The car will overheat
$500+
Coolant. The fluid that maintains optimal engine temperature and prevents corrosion. Coolant mainly comes in two types, 70/30 (70 percent antifreeze to 30 percent water) and 50/50 (equal parts antifreeze and water).
Coolant Reservoir. The bottle in which excess coolant is stored.
Water Pump. The component that pushes coolant through the thermostat, engine, and radiator. (Cars initially used water as coolant, and the name stuck around.)
Thermostat. The valve or faucet that controls coolant and engine temperature by (1) opening when the engine gets too hot, allowing coolant to flow from the engine to the radiator to cool down, and (2) closing when the engine is too cold, restricting the flow of coolant to the radiator, hence warming up the engine.
Radiator. The part where coolant flows to cool down after it passes through the super-hot engine. When the coolant gets too hot, it can boil or evaporate as steam.
Fan. The cooling mechanism, which sits in front of the radiator and condenser, blowing air past the radiator to bring down the coolant’s temperature. It also blows air past the condenser used by the AC and heating (see page 223).
Coolant Hoses. The rubber tubes connecting the radiator to the engine, through which hot pressurized coolant flows.
A loop of coolant is continuously pumping through your cooling system as your car runs—wrapping around the engine, flowing through the radiator, and then making its way back to the engine. As the coolant touches the surface of the engine, it picks up heat via heat transfer, then moves to the radiator to release that heat before being sent right back to the engine. This cycle keeps the engine running at optimal temperature.
Coolant and Your Dashboard
How do you know your coolant is doing its job? Check out the C to H (cold to hot) temperature gauge on your dashboard. (European vehicles tend to use numbers that designate coolant temperature in Celsius.) When you start your car, the needle will be on C. Your engine is cold, the coolant is cold, and the thermostat is closed. Depending on external temperatures and how long the car has been turned off, it takes one to ten minutes for the needle to hit the middle of the gauge—the happy spot. Like Goldilocks’s porridge, coolant temperature needs to be “just right” to keep your engine content.
Too cold? If the needle doesn’t reach the middle of the gauge after ten minutes of driving, there is too much coolant circulating to the engine. Your thermostat is most likely stuck open, continuously sending coolant to the radiator.
Just right? The needle reaches the middle of the temperature gauge a few minutes after you start the car and stays there. The engine and coolant are running at optimal temperature. The needle shouldn’t move from the middle position until you turn the car off again.
Too hot? If the needle starts to creep up past the middle of the gauge, the engine is overheating. A message or coolant light may come up on the dash, and you might see smoke rising from under the hood. The engine is reaching unsafe temperatures. Coolant isn’t circulating through the radiator, and it will start to boil off or evaporate as its temperature increases, leaving no coolant in the system. Three things could be going on: The thermostat is stuck closed, there’s a block somewhere preventing coolant from circulating, or you’ve sprung a coolant leak somewhere. If you continue to drive, you are in danger of damaging your engine. (Remember what happened to my beloved poop car?) Shut off your vehicle as soon as it is safe to do so, and see page 277 for more on what to do next.
The Second E Is for Exhaust: Smelly Burps and Droopy Tailpipes
Burping at the dinner table may be rude, but the belch of combusted air coming from the tailpipe is essential to the proper functioning of your car. Though that belch feeds the smog layer in traffic-heavy cities like L.A., in newer cars it’s become a lot less polluting.
In both traditional and hybrid cars, the exhaust system is basically a line of pipe running under the car, but it does have a few distinct components. The only maintenance these items require is an easy-breezy car wash to keep snow, salt, and sand from corroding metal parts.
Exhaust Pipe. The long metal pipe through which extremely hot exhaust gas is blown out of the engine.
Flex Pipe. A section of the exhaust pipe that is a flexible hose, allowing the hot pipe to move or breathe a little. The exhaust gas coming out the tailpipe is hot and moving fast, so the pipe needs to be flexible and stretchy to accommodate for movement and drastic changes in temperature.
Muffler and Tailpipe. The muffler dampens the loud sound exhaust makes as it travels through the exhaust pipe. The end of the muffler is the tailpipe, the exit point for the engine�
�s exhaust gas and the part pranksters like to plug with potatoes.
Gaskets. Used to seal metal pipe connections.
Hangers. Metal brackets that hold the exhaust pipe on to the car. You’ll notice these are missing when your car’s tailpipe drags on the ground.
I’ll discuss exhaust system maintenance and repairs along with the emissions system after the next section.
The Third E Is for Emissions: Monitoring Your Junk
Every bit of the air-and-fuel mixture that goes into your engine eventually comes out, but with an essential chemical difference due to the fact that it has been burned. And this mixture that comes out is not so nice to our environment. That’s why cars are equipped with emissions systems designed to monitor and control the fuel delivery system’s performance. Your emissions system ensures that you’re not using too much gas or sending too much junk out your tailpipe and excessively polluting our air, water, and land. If there’s a problem with your emissions system, your dashboard will let you know by turning on the check-engine light.
Loaded up with controls, computers, valves, switches, and sensors, the emissions system contains the following components:
Catalytic Converter (CC). Fuel isn’t uniformly burned off during the engine’s mini-explosions; it leaves behind a mixture of raw fuel (not environmentally friendly) and burned exhaust gas (more environmentally friendly). We don’t want raw, unburned fuel or other pollutants in the air we breathe, so the catalytic converter saves the day by transforming any unburned or raw fuel to gas before it gets blown out through the tailpipe.
Air Pump. The air pump injects fresh air into the exhaust system to help reduce pollutants and lessen the load on the catalytic converter.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve. Small amounts of combustion gases hang around past the Eat, Burn, Belch cycle. Instead of exiting via the exhaust pipe, they “blow by” the internal engine parts instead. The PCV valve collects those gases and circulates them back into the air-fuel intake system so they don’t wind up polluting the environment.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve. The EGR valve helps the engine burn fuel more efficiently by rerouting a small amount of exhaust gas back into the engine.
Oxygen or O2 Sensor. The oxygen sensor measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream to ensure optimal burn. If there’s too much air in the ratio (mechanics call this being too lean in fuel), the system will inject additional fuel into the engine. If there is too little oxygen (mechanics call this being too rich in fuel), the system will inject less fuel into the engine.
Evaporative Control System. The evaporative control system collects raw (unburned) fuel vapors from the gas tank and pumps them to the engine to be burned. Beware of damaging your evaporative charcoal canister by topping off the gas at the pump.
Passing Inspections in Your State
Do you need to get your car regularly inspected to pass safety and emissions requirements? Safety and smog checks are regulated by individual states, so the answer depends on where you live. California has the strictest standards, but in many states, no inspections are required. In Maine, they’re required annually, while in Delaware, they apply only to cars five years and older. In some states, the testing is done directly by the motor vehicle department, while in others, any repair shop outfitted with state-approved equipment and certified techs can perform emissions testing. The regulations are all over the place, so check your state’s official guidelines online to find out what you need to do. (You may also receive a notification from the state when it’s time to renew your registration.)
Be aware that anywhere you test, an illuminated check-engine light will cause you to fail inspection. Your PCT will have to determine the problem’s root cause in order for your car to pass.
Oil Leaks
As you start racking up miles on your car, oil leaks will begin to happen around the seals and gaskets of the engine and oil pan. These components are designed to prevent oil from leaking at joints where parts come together, but they do wear out. Fixing an oil leak can get very expensive, so some car owners choose to monitor the leak and add oil to the engine as needed to compensate, a technique that isn’t recommended, particularly when it comes to larger leaks. If you find yourself needing to add oil to your engine once a week, it’s in your best interest to repair the leak.
Your mechanic will check for leaks every time you take your car in for service, but signs of a leak include oil dripping under the car or on parts under the hood. Additives that claim to slow down or stop oil leaks do not really work, so don’t bother with them.
EXHAUST AND EMISSIONS SYSTEMS MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS
PART
ISSUE
FIX
TIMING
COST
Metal Exhaust Pipes or Metal Flexible Exhaust Hoses
Corrosion from exhaust gases will cause these steel pieces to rust over time, leading to leaks. In areas prone to winter weather, the salt and sand used to melt ice and snow can corrode these metal parts
Protect your exhaust piping from salt corrosion with an annual undercarriage wash once winter turns to spring. Exhaust pipes can sometimes be repaired by welding, but flex pipes must be replaced
The check-engine light may illuminate, and/or you may hear embarrassingly loud rumbles and noises when you drive and accelerate
Varies depending on the location of the leak and whether the pipe can be repaired or needs to be replaced. Normally less than $500
Muffler
Mufflers corrode and acquire holes. You’ll hear a car in need of a new muffler from blocks away—it’s loud!
Replace
Embarrassingly loud rumbles and noises when you drive and accelerate
Average cost of less than $250
Rubber Gaskets
Over time rubber gaskets will lose their elasticity and ability to seal off pipe connections
Replace
Slight rumbles and soft noises when you drive and accelerate
Less than $150
Hangers
Hangers can corrode or get knocked out of place. Ever see an old car with its tailpipe dragging on the ground? It needs a hanger replaced!
Replace
When the tailpipe starts to drag
Less than $100
Catalytic Converter
Catalytic converters fail from use over time, leading to an increase in pollutants escaping into the environment
Replace
Check-engine light will illuminate
Expect to pay at least $500
Air Pump
Air pumps fail from use over time, leading to an increase in pollutants escaping into the environment
Replace
Check-engine light will illuminate
Expect to pay at least $500
Oxygen Sensor, EGR, and PCV Valves
These sensors and valves fail from use over time
Replace
Check-engine light will illuminate
PCV valves cost less than $100 to replace. EGR valve replacements vary, from $150–$350. Oxygen sensor replacements vary, from $150–$500
EVAP Charcoal Canister
This canister can be damaged by topping off gas when filling the tank or from use over time
Replace
Check-engine light will illuminate
$300-$600
DIY #3: How to Check and Add Oil
If there’s one thing I want to accomplish in this book, it’s convincing #shecanics everywhere that engine oil is just as important to the health of your cars as gasoline. Actually, more! Oil is your car’s lifeline. We think more about gas, partly because we’re refilling that tank on the regular. And since most of us aren’t taught to change our oil, it just becomes one of those mysterious under-the-hood things auto airheads love to ignore.
Your days of oil illiteracy are over. In this section, we’re going to learn all about checking and refilling our own oil. Listen, I get it. Some of you are going to be pumped about tackl
ing this. Some of you are already pros at checking and topping off your oil and don’t even need these instructions. And a few of you are checking your cuticles and getting ready to skip ahead. But even if you still plan to take your car to the mechanic for this job (and most of us will), I want you to understand what’s involved.
Consider this a lesson in auto care CPR. You may never need to use it, but one day it might save your life. And your very expensive engine.
How and When to Check Your Oil
Normally, you’ll get things checked out every six months at your regularly scheduled maintenance appointments, and anytime your oil change monitor pipes up. But there are a few circumstances in which manually checking your oil yourself is necessary:
• Before going on a road trip longer than two hours
• Monthly once the car passes the 100,000-mile mark
• Weekly if you have a small oil leak
That may sound like a lot. But checking your oil takes only two minutes and requires no tools or props other than a rag or a paper towel and gloves. Here’s how it’s done:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off the engine. Checking the oil on a hill will result in an inaccurate reading.
2. Pop your hood (remember how we learned to do that on page 64?) and locate the oil dipstick. The dipstick is a long rod that sits inside your engine and oil pan (the container that holds the engine oil). The head of the dipstick is usually a bright orange or yellow ring, making it easy to spot.
The head of the oil dipstick is usually a bright orange or yellow ring.
3. Pull the dipstick all the way out, paying attention to the location of the small hole it came out of. Wipe off the dipstick with your rag or paper towel, then take a look at the indicator marks. A typical dipstick has two marks: F (Full) and L (Low); Min and Max; or two dots or lines.
Girls Auto Clinic Glove Box Guide Page 9