How I Saw Hitler on My Summer Vacation
Kathleen A. Reed
In 1938, high-spirited Helen McPhail sails the SS Normandie to a Europe displaying ominous signs of change due to Hitler’s increasing demands for power. Thirty years old and single, she savors the excitement of visiting nine countries by rail, from museums and nightclubs in Paris, to a dogsled ride in the Alps!
The trip is carefully planned, but total surprises keep cropping up. She loses her hotel reservations to German soldiers - twice! She was taken to Nazi Headquarters in Salzburg! How does one spend a black night in Austria? She becomes entangled in circumstances that are fascinating, frustrating, and romantic! (Listening to Hungarian music can be treacherous!)
As Helen joyfully hops from country to country, more than one handsome man longs for her to stay. You will love her sense of humor and her courage in adversity.
Join her on the streets of Paris, amidst throngs of frantic people who are trying to leave Europe. Be an eye-witness to a Paris where taxis and drivers are commandeered to military service, as France prepares for war on the eve of the Munich Conference. Why is the RMS Queen Mary distanced off shore, instead of waiting at the dock?
Jump into an adventure you will remember forever! Readers of this book come away feeling like they were right there with her! The true tale is enhanced by over 20 photos from her scrapbook!
Kathleen A. Reed
HOW I SAW HITLER ON MY SUMMER VACATION
A True Story
1938: Fearless Female’s Amazing Adventures in Pre WWII Europe Including Annexed Austria and Nazi Germany
Helen and a French Sailor on the SS Normandie
Preface
The setting is Europe, and the year is 1938, soon after Hitler annexed Austria, and weeks before he demanded and received an important section of Czechoslovakia!
This is a true story, taken from the pages of Helen McPhail’s two leather bound trip diaries. The narrative includes sailing aboard the SS Normandie and the RMS Queen Mary, and traveling by rail through nine European countries. Every evening of her two month journey, Helen meticulously logged the adventures of the day into her journals. She passed down these diaries to me along with photos, and ephemera. This is no ordinary travelogue/memoir! It reads like an exciting novel, and is a real “page-turner” in places.
Helen was a single lady of thirty years, with a Masters Degree in mathematics. She worked for the US Government Department of Agriculture, in Washington D.C. The trip was prepaid so she traveled with coupons, tickets, and vouchers, for the hotels, trains and tours, plus a tight budget for souvenirs. Upon arrival at each train station, she was to be met by a representative of her hotel. That did not always happen, creating events both fascinating and chaotic. She traveled with a friend but at midpoint of the trip, they went in separate directions, as planned. Upon her arrival at Nuremberg on the eve of the annual Nazi Party Rally, the twists and turns commenced.
Helen toured 1938 Europe "unawares,” with the typical mindset of Americans, Europeans — and for that matter, world leaders — when it came to the aftermath of Hitler‘s annexation of Austria earlier that year. The prevailing sentiment was that another war was to be avoided at almost any cost. It was assumed (or leaders wanted to believe) that Hitler would be satisfied with his acquisitions of Austria and the Sudetenland portion of Czechoslovakia. 1938 has been called the prelude to World War II.
Helen noticed evidence of military occupation of homes, forts and businesses, plus propaganda, but tourism seemed to proceed as a matter of course. She was not threatened with physical harm but did encounter several disturbing experiences during her travels.
Helen was optimistic by nature, and she embraced the philosophy that every time something unexpected happened, new and exciting experiences would follow. Possessing an outgoing nature, she was motivated to learn about people she encountered, regardless of their native language. She communicated fairly well due to her college courses in German and French, resorting if necessary, to using sketches and sign language.
Be sure to read the epilogue which includes copies of letters from soldiers she met in Europe. You will see photos of, and read encounters with, several Austrian and German soldiers. It is never my intent to present these men in a positive or negative light, but just to relay what was in the diary and her scrapbook. Helen was as unaware as most people, when it came to the inhumanities that were already taking place. Most German citizens were kept in the dark by control of the media.
I have attempted to research every detail of this trip, with respect to the accuracy of dates, names, places, spelling, and grammar. The various-sized photos were taken from her scrapbook. I made them as crisp as possible.
CHAPTER ONE
Sailing the SS Normandie to England
Flirtatious Females on the High Seas
Date: August 2, 1938
Place: Washington DC to NYC
Weather: Everything was perfect.
What an exciting day, from beginning to end! After a mad scramble, Margy and I arrived at the train station toting our beautifully labeled luggage! We had asked the taxi driver to stop at places all over Washington D.C., so we could pick up some last minute things. I was so crazy happy when we arrived at the train station that I almost forgot to pay the cab driver — even with the money clutched in my hand! Our friends Elsie, Edwina and Stella, were at the station when we arrived. They gave us a big send-off which included a stunning bouquet of roses, icy cold fruit, and many good wishes. The train ride seemed quite short because Margy and I talked continually. Upon leaving the train, we boarded a gorgeous private bus that took us to the Victoria Hotel. During the ride, we caught our first glimpse of the SS Normandie ship. So stunning was the sight of this enormous ocean liner, that for once, we were speechless!
After settling into our room, we took a taxicab to 52nd Street, in New York City. We strolled past the little foreign dives and dined at the Chalet Suisse, which was a delightful place. I ordered slowly smoked Westphelian ham, after the waiter said it was imported from Germany. Before too long, we will be in Germany, enjoying the unique food and wine. After dinner, we proceeded to The Radio City Music Hall, where the magnificent decor far exceeded my expectations. The opulent splendor of the place left us breathless! On my next visit to New York, I would love to see a musical or stage show, but tonight we viewed the movie, “Algiers,” which starred Charles Boyer and Hedy Lamarr. It is difficult to wind down to anything as plebian as sleep, after such an exciting day.
Date: August 3, 1938
Place: Aboard the SS Normandie
Weather: HOT! No doubt!
Today has been a dream and more. We departed our hotel for the Normandie at 9:30 a.m. There it was, waiting for passengers and appearing even larger than it had yesterday. After passing through ticket and passport examination, Margy and I walked up the long gangplank, passing by rows of red-capped bellhops who were standing at attention, until we were finally on board! The ship was so vast that one moment we wandered around happily, and the next we were hopelessly lost. We just giggled, twirled around, and darted off in another direction. The temperature in New York today was heading for 96 degrees, and we nearly perished! We were not dressed for such hot weather because our destination is Europe, where it will be cooler. Friends and relatives, who came to see us off, were allowed to visit us on the ship. We had been dashing around so much that they had a hard time finding us! It was such fun chatting with them while taking in the wonders of our surroundings. A few passengers were whispering that movie actress Simone Simon was on board, as well as Kitty Carlisle and financier Bernard Baruch.
Helen on deck, wearing her gardeni
a corsage
Before too long, it was necessary for our guests to leave the ship. The S.S. Normandie dramatically pulled away with all the flurry of a moving-picture-type departure! Gigantic whistles were blowing and screeching, accompanied by wild hand-wavings between ship and shore. We about fainted from the heat, while standing at the ship railing in the sunshine.
Photo Below: SS Normandie departure with passengers at the rail
Photo Below: Ready to depart
Photo Below: Sailing away
Margy and I chose to sail tourist class on this ship, which is well known for being predominately a luxury liner. Just imagine our happiness when we found ourselves in the “interchangeable quarters!” The cabins in our section of the ship are used for First Class on some trips and for Tourist on others. Our cabin is gorgeous! We have two grand beds — with a longhaired white rug between them — and two washbasins if you please! There is a dressing table, two bureaus, and little twin bedside tables. It really is magnificent! We have separate mirror-lined wardrobes, and there is a nook just for our suitcases. In addition to a writing desk with chair, there is a lovely comfy chair. We were tickled by the private bathroom with a washbasin, toilet, and the cutest shower I have seen. It comes out from the sides and caresses you, making it difficult to tear yourself away. There is an extra washbasin enclosed in a door so that if one person is in the bathroom the other can use that basin.
Our room is softly fragranced with the most colorful flowers! Mother and Dad sent a vase of tall gladioli spikes, which I will have transported to our dining room table. There are pink roses and white asters from Uncle Paul. I am wearing the prettiest gardenia corsage, which will be stored in our refrigerator, overnight. Telegrams arrived by the dozens! We are just crazy with excitement!
Photo Below: Bon Voyage telegrams sent to the SS Normandie
The afternoon on the Normandie just flew by. We have been assigned dining room seating at a table for four near a porthole. Dinner is served (for the second sitting) at 8:30 p.m. Our dining companions turned out to be a couple of well-seasoned male travelers, who tell us that they are doctors from New York City. Hy and Bernie often adopt a blasé attitude, but then again, they can act crazy and be lots of fun! After tonight’s feast, the four of us strolled the deck and gazed at the reflection of the moon on the ocean. It is early to bed (12:30 a.m.) for a big day tomorrow.
Date: August 4, 1938
Place: On Board the Normandie
Weather: A little cooler, but still hot!
When the alarm went off at 8 a.m. this morning, it felt like it should be the middle of the night. Noticing that the clocks had advanced an entire half-hour overnight, I made a mad scramble for breakfast. The clocks are advanced to compensate for the time changes, as we make our way to Europe. Right after breakfast, I went with our two doctors on a tour of the ship. Hy presented me with a rose from the dining room, and they were both acting crazy, as usual. Bernie now tells me that he is a veterinarian, but I cannot believe a thing they say; they are so silly.
The first-class area certainly is spacious and grand and the dining room is lovely beyond description. The walls and chandeliers sparkle with brilliant glass. I am told that this room holds well over 600 diners, and that the chandelier glass was made by Lalique. The conservatory is an amazing place — with wild and cultivated flowers, fountains, and real birds. I certainly never expected to hear birds chirping on a ship! The walls are adorned with murals which are painted on canvas, glass, and wood. I could just sit there forever and ever! I tiptoed into the darling chapel where they hold church services on Sunday. All of the woodcarvings in this chapel were created by blind people — such intricate and beautiful work.
In the afternoon, we (by very special permission) were allowed to see the engines! Hy and Bernie helped me coax the purser, because women are not supposed to go into the engine room. The only stipulation was that I wear slacks or shorts. Margy wanted to take a nap, so I borrowed a pair of her shorts, which turned out to be very short on me! The expanse of leg that I displayed caused more attention than I would have wished. Well, back to the tour! The engine rooms are mammoth and appear as clean as any salon. It surely was hot down there, but we were so happy that we had the opportunity to see it all! After locating Margy, we went on deck to watch the fellows shoot at clay pigeons. It seems that we do nothing more than eat and get ready to eat. For such a large ship as the Normandie, social life is not at all organized. There are no planned activities to help you become acquainted with the other passengers. You have to make your own friends and plan your own entertainment. The only people that you meet on a regular basis are those who sit at your dining table and next to your assigned deck chair.
Helen relaxing in her deck chair with French Sailors in the background
Our deck chairs overlook the swimming pool, so we have a grand view of everything. The deck steward was most gracious in assigning them to us, but we do not have the opportunity to spend as much time in them as we would like.
Swimming Pool — Helen Center wearing white bathing cap
There are plenty of things to do, all day long, including attending concerts, which we especially love. One can swim in the pool, go to movies, dance, and participate in all sorts of deck sports.
Hy, Margy, and Bernie kidding around on deck
Date: August 5, 1938
Place: On Board the Normandie
Weather: Perfect — cooler in morning.
We can dine anywhere we choose in the morning. At breakfast we chatted with a lovely couple. The husband was such an Adonis of a man! However, he still cannot compete with the handsome Purser's assistant, whose dreamy deep blue eyes have me completely subjected. This was such a lazy morning, that it was difficult to summon ambition to do anything more than swim in the outdoor pool! The temperature was swell as long as you stayed in the water. Hy and Bernie reacted like two big sissies, when I invited them to join me for a swim. They said they preferred to sit and watch me swim. After lunch, we went on deck and fooled around, laughing and finding out more about each other. We played questions and answers.
At 4:30, the four of us went to the movies to see Joan Blondell and Melvyn Douglas in the hilarious film, "There's Always a Woman.” Then it was time to dress for dinner — which takes us at least an hour. The theater is like a real little playhouse, seating 380 people! The walls are delicately patterned with silver leaf. The stage curtain looks like velvet, except that it shimmers. After dining, we moved up on deck for some conversation and dancing. I had one dance with Hy, and then I became extremely distressed when Bernie could not dance! He said that he had been sick. Margy and Hy were out gallivanting somewhere, so I was stuck sitting with Bernie. It will not be that way tomorrow night, because I so love to dance! I will try to subtly drift away from Bernie, and seek out a dance partner.
Date: August 6, 1938
Place: On Board the Normandie
Weather: Foggy — warmer.
Before the sun came up this morning, we awoke suddenly when the ship seemed to lurch to a stop! Frightened to death, we rushed out into the hallway and heard a man say that ships naturally slow down for foggy conditions. It was difficult to calm down, so we slept in, and enjoyed breakfast in bed. We had stayed up until 2:00 a.m. this morning. What hours one keeps on a ship! To work up an appetite, we went swimming before lunch. Our attempt to play a little shuffleboard, ended in frustration and waves of laughter. I could not even make the markers (or whatever you call them) go all the way! We will leave that sport to someone else.
Oh, by the way, the Purser is getting so he recognizes me. This afternoon he smiled and nicely said “Good Morning!” However, it is his assistant, a handsome looking brute, who causes my heart to flutter. “Test Pilot” was the afternoon movie today. Tonight we attended a party and OH! What a party! The chefs prepared an extra-special dinner with an exquisitely decorated cake. This delightful meal was followed by entertainment and dancing in the salon. It was a crazy swell time and everyone was
rip-roaring. Hy and Bernie are becoming irrepressible. We were with them most of the evening, although we danced with others as well.
Date: August 7, 1938
Place: On Board the Normandie
Weather: Coolish.
After arising at 8 a.m., I dashed off a letter before breakfast. I suspect that many passengers were resting up from the big party last evening, as there were very few people eating breakfast. Since it was quite early, I settled down amongst the orchids in the tranquil conservatory, and wrote my letters to the tune of warbling birds. I strolled into first class to find the chapel, and attended a church service at 11:00 a.m. The sermon was lovely however the minister seemed a bit too informal for such a breathtaking setting. After rooting Margy out of bed, we spent the remainder of the day lounging on the deck, attending movies, and packing. We engaged in a frenzy of picture taking, as we will be leaving the SS Normandie before too long.
Because tonight is our last night on the ship, we were told to have our suitcases packed and ready to be removed from the cabin by 6 p.m. All we could keep to ourselves was one small bag. I asked the Purser (he actually called me by name) and his bee-oo-ti-ful assistant to sign their autographs on this diary. My heart still has not returned to normal. We had another grand dinner tonight — our last dinner on the Normandie. It is early to bed tonight and up early in the morning, for the sunrise and debarkation at Southampton, England. Whoopee!
CHAPTER TWO
England and Scotland
History, Markets, and Shopping for Plaid
Date: August 8, 1938
How I Saw Hitler on My Summer Vacation Page 1