How I Saw Hitler on My Summer Vacation

by Kathleen A. Reed

  Date: September 17, 1938

  Place: Vienna to Salzburg

  Weather: Wunderschon.

  This has been another one of those days fraught with surprises. The Budapest to Paris train left Vienna a little after 8 a.m. and most everyone else was going farther than Salzburg. The atmosphere seemed very stiff in our compartment at first, so I sat and read a detective story. The man across from me (who had been dying to talk for the last hour or so) broke down and spoke some English. From then on things were better. Three fellows boarded shortly after we passed Linz. They carried a portable radio, so we skimmed along, listening to some of the prettiest Viennese music.

  The newcomers spoke about ten words of English, and they turned out to be lots of fun. I almost died giggling at the youngest fellow’s imitation of a Spanish dancer. He had the fair hair and blue eyes that so many of these Austrians possess. They all reminded me of Max, unfortunately. As we approached Salzburg, the countryside was studded with sparkling blue lakes against a background of heavenly snow-capped mountains. I was still entranced upon my arrival at Salzburg, and thus unprepared for the shock that lay ahead.

  After departing the train, I looked for my baggage, but it was nowhere in sight! I tried desperately to find my way to the street. Usually when I exited a train, I just followed the crowd. This time there were very few people, and they had scattered in all directions. After many false turns, I emerged at the street, and found my baggage sitting there, with no one around. When I asked a taxi driver to go to the Salzberger Hof Hotel, he said that it had not been a hotel since the German occupation of Austria, the preceding March. It was now a German military headquarters! I carried a book of prepaid coupons with which to pay for all of my hotels. You can imagine my consternation at having to spend some of my precious German marks (which I needed for purchases) on a hotel bill. I had planned it so that I would not have much money left over, as one could only take 10 Marks out of the country. Since I was leaving the country right after my next stop at Innsbruck, I was in a pretty picklement.

  After being shoved from one place to another, it finally turned out that I would have to pay the hotel bill myself, for these two nights. The penny-counting really intensifies now. A clerk at the railway station said I had better go to the Salzburger Hof anyway, and ask if they knew of a room. I stepped up into a horse-drawn carriage, commandeered by a big fat, mustached Austrian. He was extremely good-natured, spoke not a word of English, but proceeded to the Salzburger Hof. It was a lovely day, in such a lovely place, and I should have enjoyed it more if I had not been worried about having a place to stay. Sure enough, my scheduled hotel was a military establishment, and it was occupied by Germans, not Austrians. I reported my dilemma to a kind female employee, who told me to follow her. She led me to Nazi Headquarters! (I guess I really reported it good, didn’t I!) An official at Nazi Headquarters suggested I return to the railway station and find the tourist information office. I had another picturesque ride in the same little horse-drawn carriage. The agent at tourist information office secured an inexpensive room for me at the Elizabeth Station. It was near the railway station, and was close to many places of interest. My entire trotting around in the horse and carriage cost me only 3M, which was very reasonable. The jolly old driver had made himself available to me for at least an hour.

  My lovely room is spacious, and is decorated all in white. There is a wonderful view from the window and the quietness outside my room is refreshing. The jovial landlady actually speaks excellent English! After checking my travel literature to see where things were located, I went for a walk in this most picturesque of picturesque towns. The tourist season is almost over, so there were few foreigners around. I sat in parks in the chilly air, and let the sun soak through me. Salzburg is the most unique city I have seen so far. The native Austrian dress is the rule rather than the exception, although many of the men are wearing military uniforms. The women’s dresses are so unique, that I long for the money and an excuse to buy one. How does one take photos of the gaily-costumed people, without seeming rude? Just as my travel book stated, the Salzburg men seem very friendly and romantic at heart.

  Photo Below: Salzburg: River Salzach

  The lovely River Salzach runs right thorough the center of the town, which is bordered on both sides by hills and mountains. I hear that the old fortress is filled to overflowing with Nazi troops. Salzburg is a town of music. A foreigner visiting here is fully aware of it. There are mementos of Mozart all over town, including a statue, a bridge, and the home of his parents. I stopped at a café house for some coffee and cakes, as a much-delayed luncheon, and then wandered to the Kurhaus — the Mirabell Schloss (Palace) and the peaceful Mirabell gardens. The sun was shining brightly and everyone seemed so happy and carefree. It was a joy just to wander in and out, by fountains and shady paths, past children playing and artists painting pictures. Almost everyone stared at me, especially the children. It is probably because of my military-style suit, once more.

  Photo Below: Entrance to the Mirabell Gardens

  My eyes are tired from trying to take it all in. At my hotel, I have arranged for “half pension” (that is, a room with breakfast and dinner.) At 8 p.m., I will descend the stairs, to dine at the “Speisesalle.”

  Date: September 18, 1938

  Place: Salzburg

  Weather: Noch Wunderschon.

  TIMELINE: There is a meeting in London, at which British and French Cabinet members finalize an Anglo-French plan designed to appease Hitler with regard to the Sudetenland. Italy states that they will side with Germany if there is a war.

  What a glorious day! Despite feeling a bit tired, I did not hesitate to rise for breakfast in the Speisesalle with two darling little waitresses running all around. The tour bus picked us up in front of the hotel at 8:45 a.m., and by 9:00 a.m., we were reassembled at the agency for various tours. Today’s excursion included visiting famous places in the city plus the Hellbrunn Castle. We drove through the Residenzplatz, a large square in the historic center of Salzburg. After viewing the riding school, State Theater, and a tower where they used to burn witches, we ended up at the Hellbrunn Castle. This place is famous for viewing the many fascinating waterworks, which delight adults and children alike! Miniature carved people in miniature villages suddenly become animated, by the power of water alone. Water would suddenly spout from everywhere. There was a table surrounded by seats with little holes in their middles. The person at the head of the table could press buttons that would cause a spray of water to rise in the center of each seat — an easy way of ridding oneself of an unwelcome guest. We arrived at the Residenzplatz just in time to hear the carillon play at 11:00. Our guide said it was a sad song that asked the question, “Why do you go away and leave me?”

  The cute little guide had a round, beaming face, and wore a Tyrol costume. After the tour, I revisited the lovely Mirabel gardens, just sitting there drinking in the sun. How many things could I squeeze into the remaining hours of the day? In the old part of town, I encountered St. Peter’s cathedral as they were having an organ recital. The organ dates back in part to 1628 and the music was magnificent. While making my way through the narrow streets, the entrance of the fortress, or “festung” appeared. I ascended on a cable car, which was somehow propelled by water.

  Photo Below: Salzburg View from the Fortress

  Sitting at the top of the hill, savoring my coffee and kucken, I had a lovely view out over Salzburg. The fortress seemed like a little village, and was teeming with soldiers.

  Photo Below: Salzburg Fortress

  Always looking for things to explore, I tried to find out where everyone seemed to be heading. They were going to the Herbfeste, a type of carnival. On the way down, I longed for a parachute that would deliver me right in the middle of the gaiety. After a lengthy and tiresome descent, I walked out to the Herbfeste. These Austrian people really are gay and I love them all! They enjoy everything immensely, and are so kind at heart. I would have enjoyed the fest more
with a companion. Carnivals are meant to be enjoyed with others. After exploring it completely, I could barely crawl back to my hotel. The hotel dinner was quite refreshing, so I was ready to take in a performance of the celebrated Salzburg Marionettes. They acted out a very amusing rendition of Faust, and are every bit as wonderful as claimed.

  Date: September 19, 1938

  Place: Salzburg to Innsbruck

  Weather: Grand!

  The ride from Salzburg to Innsbruck was completely entrancing: high rugged mountains rising on both sides of the road, many of them with snow-covered peaks. The mountain streams were as clear as can be! The river had an aquamarine hue, sparkling like strands of diamonds as it caught the sunlight. Initially, I had the compartment to myself and I hopped from window to window to see everything. Around every curve was another lovely lake! The people working in the fields wore a plainer version of the Tyrol costume. Eventually, a very handsome fellow entered the compartment. He spoke little English but indicated that he was sorry that he could not get off at Innsbruck to show me around. He kissed my hand when he left at Zell am See. For the remainder of the ride, just curling up and enjoying the scenery far outweighed any desire to read or take a nap.

  Upon my 2 p.m. arrival at Innsbruck, I went by horse and carriage to my hotel. The ride was enjoyable this time, with no worries about having place to stay. My room is lovely, and very well furnished. I am dying to try the bed — and had better do so early, because tomorrow morning, it’s up at 6:30. This afternoon I walked around Innsbruck and visited the Folk Museum, to see some very old Tyrolean artifacts. There were costumes from all parts of the country, as well as various implements and furniture. Several men were in charge of the displays, and each was happy to show people the things in his particular domain.

  That afternoon as I returned to my hotel room, I noticed that there was a contraption on the ceiling light — a sort of cardboard box — with a small hole in the bottom. When the light was turned on, all the illumination I could see was a small cylindrical shaft that was barely noticeable. My first impulse was to wonder what kind of game it was! It was then that I became aware that the windows were locked, and the outside shutters seemed nailed tight. After resting, I turned on the light over the washbasin and readied for dinner. During dinner in the hotel basement, I temporarily forgot about it all.

  The dinner was delicious, but the other diners did not care to socialize. They were extremely engrossed in some news flashes that were blaring over a radio. I could make out what seemed to be a Sudeten-German mass meeting with several speeches and lots of wild cheering. The atmosphere was so intense; I felt the need to step outside for some fresh air. The desk clerk in the dim lobby confirmed that this was a black night. When I told them that I had turned on the light over the basin, they looked aghast! Why didn’t anyone tell me about this? The scene outside of the hotel was black as black could be. You could not see two feet ahead of you. It was a blackout night, all right! People were cautiously walking down the streets. They were speaking in hushed tones, and muttering to companions or to themselves! It was the weirdest sensation — like being in a dream. It did not seem wise to venture far from the hotel. There were only two things one could do on such an evening: go to some nightclub to pass the hours, or go home and to bed.

  Upon re-entering the hotel, I had a terrible time finding my room! The lights in the hallways were so dim that I had to grope each hallway door and run my fingers over the raised numbers. More fun! After finally locating my room, I headed straight to bed, and slept like a top.

  CHAPTER NINE

  Switzerland

  Riding a Dog Sled is a Mountaintop Experience

  Date: September 20, 1938

  Place: Innsbruck to Lucerne, Switzerland

  Weather: Still fine.

  TIMELINE, September 20-21: Officials of France and England inform Czechoslovakia that they will not help the Czechs (if attacked) if they do not accept the French-Anglo appeasement plan. Czechoslovakia feels forced to back down.

  While waiting for my taxi this morning, I met some American tourists who described their terrible sleepless night! They said they were kept awake by the sounds of troops marching all night, in addition to airplanes flying around! They feared there was going to be a battle right there and then, and were extremely dismayed. I, on the other hand, never heard a thing! There is one advantage to being overly tired. You sleep through all sorts of noise and escape some of those anxious moments that light sleepers experience.

  My taxi departed the hotel about 7:00 this morning to catch a 7:20 train. The cab ran out of gas before reaching the railway station. It was too early to find another taxi, and as I could make out the station in the distance, I started running and told the driver to follow with my bags. Fortunately, the train was late in arriving so all was fine. Again, the combination of beautiful scenery and congenial conversation kept me alert. I met a couple of lively American fellows. They were tall and handsome Cornell boys who will be staying in Zurich before going on to Lucerne. Resting up from the previous night in Innsbruck, they had selected the “nightclub method” of outlasting the blackout and ended up having a rip-roaring time. The fellow next to me was a seasoned traveler but he must be Jewish because the customs officials put him through the third degree.

  The trip to Lucerne continued to be beautiful. Switzerland is as lovely as expected. It was a joy to see an agent waiting to greet me. I almost kissed him! After all of my recent hotel troubles it was grand to be looked after once again. My hotel room overlooks the Lake Lucerne, with mountains in the distance. The tempting view from my little balcony keeps me from accomplishing anything when in my room. The travel man came to the hotel and we planned my stay here in Lucerne. We scheduled a mountain trip for the next day. I had the afternoon to myself to explore the city.

  Lake Lucerne view from hotel

  After walking all over town, I found the carving of the Lion, chiseled out of natural rock. It is such a kindly sad-looking lion. Looking at him almost gives you a lump in the throat — which is what the artist intended, I do think. The lion is a monument to the hundreds of Swiss Guards who were massacred during the French Revolution, in 1792.

  Lucerne Switzerland Lion Monument

  The shops are filled with fascinating, albeit expensive items. The dresses that I admired cost about $30 each! I marveled at the old wooden covered bridges with their painted pictures. It is fun to walk cross the river again and again on different bridges, to see all the pictures. The “Dance of Death” bridge is one of the most interesting. In all the scenes, the figure of Death is represented by a skeleton. It was quite late by this time so I returned to the hotel for dinner. The people here seem to do everything possible to make one’s stay a pleasant one.

  Date: September 21, 1938

  Place: Lucerne

  Weather: Fine.

  It was with the greatest pleasure that I remained in bed until 8:30. After breakfast I took another walk through the city and made several purchases based on yesterday’s window-shopping. After lunch at a little coffee shop, I sat on a lakeside bench to write post cards before my afternoon trip. The sun made the sparkling blue water appear like a sea of precious gems. The clouds in the blue sky framed the snow-capped Alps. Back in the hotel lobby, the desk clerk handed me a telegram from home. It read, “Please come home soon. Have you any idea what is going on over there? Love, Mother and Dad.” I responded with loving assurance that I would be sailing home in just a few days.

  The trip to Bergenstock was a new type of experience. We boarded a boat from the dock in front of the railway station. The 45-minute ride was delightful. Upon landing, we took a short funicular ride up the mountain Bergenstock. By this time I had become acquainted with a Canadian woman so I did not have to travel alone. She had been here previously and really knew her way around. We were rather amused to find out that we were not only both going back on the Queen Mary together, but her cabin is No. 133 and mine is No. 137! She is the first prospective traveli
ng companion I have met. It was heavenly up on the mountaintop where rested three lovely hotels! Now I have a place to spend my honeymoon — and I even picked out the room!

  We walked around, trying to find words grand enough to describe the sweeping vistas. After tea on the summit, we descended via the funicular to another boat ride, then back to our various hotels. I reached home in time to glimpse a stunning sunset with a breath-taking pink tinted sky. I am ready to fall into bed.

  Date: September 22, 1938

  Place: Lucerne to Interlaken

  Weather: 95% perfect.

  TIMELINE, September 22-23: A new Czechoslovakian government is formed. Chamberlain again meets with Hitler to discuss Hitler’s demands.

  “95% perfect!” That is what the guide said about the weather. What a day it has been! They called for me in a Cooks Tour bus at 7:45 and after making just one more stop, we were on our way. The ride continued alongside the Regi Mountains and around about the Lake of The Four Cantons (Lucerne.) It is impossible to describe the splendor, the wonder, and the beauty of the panoramic views. The superb roads and railway lines are such grand feats of engineering! We passed through William Tell country and saw the place where he shot an apple from his son’s head. The journey took us up and down mountains, on narrow curving roads. Just when we thought the bus driver could not complete a hairpin turn, he did so perfectly! He navigated the bus through numerous breath-taking curves but never moved an eyelash. Some of the passengers became jittery after just so much of it. These Swiss drivers must have nerves of iron.