The Other Paris

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by Luc Sante


  “seen from on high”: Louis Aragon, Le paysan de Paris (Gallimard, 1953 [1926]), p. 169.

  “The fauna of the imagination”: Ibid., p. 20.

  “The nineteenth century”: Benjamin, The Arcades Project, p. 831.

  “Night in our cities”: Aragon, Le paysan, p. 173.

  “Time works for those”: Yonnet, Rue des maléfices, p. 13.

  “the whole neighborhood”: Clébert, Paris insolite, p. 110.

  “It takes longer”: Ibid., p. 40.

  “What an awakening”: Ibid., pp. 252–53.

  “to win the energies”: Walter Benjamin, “Surrealism: The Last Snapshot of the European Intelligentsia” (1929), in Selected Writings (Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press/Harvard University Press, 1999), vol. 2, p. 216.

  “a technique of forward movement”: Guy Debord, “Théorie de la dérive,” Les Lèvres Nues 9 (November 1956): 6.

  “The center of Paris”: Jacques Fillon, “Description raisonnée de Paris,” Les Lèvres Nues 7 (December 1955): 39.

  “mythomania, interpretive delirium”: Gil J. Wolman, “À la porte,” Potlatch 2 (June 29, 1954).

  “All cities are geological”: Gilles Ivain, “Formulaire pour un urbanisme nouveau,” Internationale Situationniste 1 (June 1958): 15.

  “the wards of this city”: Ibid., p. 19.

  “Now it’s finished”: Ibid., p. 15.

  “The Situationists, thanks”: Abdelhafid Khatib, “Essai de description psychogéographique des Halles,” Internationale Situationniste 2 (December 1958): 13.

  “The industrialization of private life”: Raoul Vaneigem, “Commentaires contre l’urbanisme,” Internationale Situationniste 6 (August 1961): 36, 37.

  Acknowledgments

  Thanks go, first of all, to Philippe Bordaz, who started feeding me books and pamphlets as far back as 1976, and more recently acted as my guide to places in Paris I would never have found on my own. Thanks to Lilith Jaywalker and her friends James and Badia and Philippe for the life-changing dépucelage (figuratively speaking) they administered in and around Rue de l’Ourcq a bit more than thirty years ago. Thanks to Jenny Turner for putting a flea in my ear twenty-odd years ago, for all that she may have forgotten the occasion. Thanks to Catherine Temerson and Israel Rosenfield for their hospitality and kindness and memorable after-hours tour of the august institutions along Rue d’Ulm. Thanks to Marina van Zuylen for being my first reader and a fount of good counsel, and for having more than once saved my hide.

  Thanks to Peter Hutton, Olivier Verschueren (at the Livre au Trésors in Liège), Richard Devereaux, Michael Atkinson, David Schwartz (then of the American Museum of the Moving Image), Brent Kite, Alex Abramovich, Lance Ledbetter, Eric Mitchell, and the phenomenal Brian Berger for supplying crucial information and documents. Thanks to my two favorite Parisian bookstores: L’Oeil du Silence, long on the corner of Rue Yvonne le Tac and Rue des Martyrs but now sadly gone, and the Librairie du Patrimoine, which happily remains in the Hôtel de Sully on Rue Saint-Antoine. Neither place ever allowed me to leave empty-handed. A shout-out, too, to the venerable Delamain, a bedrock institution on Rue Saint-Honoré for more than three hundred years—here’s hoping for at least a few more. I could not have carried out my research without the assistance, grudging and otherwise, of the stallholders at the Porte de Vanves flea market or those at the book market on Rue Brancion, where the markups forcibly recall the fact that the place once dealt in livestock.

  Major thanks to the wonderful Jean Strouse and Marie d’Origny at the Cullman Center of the New York Public Library, which hosted and financed a utopian final year of research, and thanks to my fellow Fellows for being such a good-humored and tolerant gang. Thanks to Lyall Bush and Adam Sekuler at the Northwest Film Forum in Seattle for hiring me to put together a film program that proved invaluable to the course of the work, and for supplying me with the title for this book. Thanks to Robert Silvers, Edwin Frank, Liz Helfgott, and Josh Glenn for assigning me topics to write about that helped clarify what I was doing here. For miscellaneous imponderables, thanks to Régine le Meur, Angelika Becker, Joseph Mullender, Diane Dufour, Alexandre Civico, Bruce Goldstein, Hannah Jablonski, Odile Chilton, and above all Jem Cohen. Thanks to Mike McGonigal and Steve Connell for publishing me during my years in the desert of self-doubt. Thanks to my son, Raphael, for being a good sport through it all. And thanks to “Mr. Chrysler” for underwriting the homestretch.

  This book would not exist without the wisdom, foresight, generosity, and incredible patience of my agent, Joy Harris, and my editor, Jonathan Galassi. They set the ball rolling, and watched as it disappeared over the horizon for an unsettling length of time. Even more fundamentally, the book would not exist without the example of my late father, Lucien Sante, even if he might not sign off on the entirety of its contents. I owe my dad for his love of Paris and the French language and the well-turned phrase, for throwing me whatever crime novels turned up in the packages sent by his sister the village news vendor, for bequeathing me his dictionaries and the collected works of G. Lenotre, for educating me as he had educated himself. And finally, thanks to Mimi Lipson, who lived through the infernal process, for being my best friend, confidante, and resident golden ear.

  Index

  The index that appears in the print version of this title does not match the pages in your e-book. Please use the search function on your e-reading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.

  absinthe

  Académie Française

  accordions

  acrobats

  Action Française

  actors and actresses

  Africa

  alcohol, see drinking; wine

  Alfortville

  Algerians

  Alibaud, Louis

  Allain, Marcel

  alleys

  Almereyda, Miguel

  ambience units

  Amérique

  anarchists; bombings; Bonnot Gang; professions; women; see also specific anarchists

  Anderson, Sherwood

  animals

  anti-Semitism

  apaches; tattoos

  Apollinaire, Guillaume

  aqueducts

  Aragon, Louis; Aurélien; Paris Peasant

  Arceuil

  architecture; Haussmann’s urban planning and; modern

  Arcis

  Arènes de Lutèce

  Argenteuil

  Argentina

  aristocracy

  Arletty

  arrondissements

  artists; anarchists; bohemia; pigments; see also specific artists

  Asile Fradin

  Asnières

  Asso, Raymond

  assommoir

  asylum, right of

  Atget, Eugène

  Aubervilliers

  Auschwitz

  Auteuil

  automobiles

  Auvergnats

  Avenue de l’Opera

  Avenue Jean-Jaurès

  bagnes

  bains-douches

  Baker, Josephine

  bakers

  Bal Bullier

  Bal Chicard

  balconies

  ballrooms

  bal-musette

  bals

  Bal Tabarin

  Baltard, Victor

  Balzac, Honoré de; La Cousine Bette; The History of the Thirteen

  banlieue

  Banque de France

  barbers

  Barbès

  barricades

  barrières

  bars; bohemian; Montmartre; terminology; thematic

  Bastille

  Bastille Opéra

  baths

  Batignolles

  Battalions d’Infanterie Légère d’Afrique

  Baudelaire, Charles; La fanfarlo; “The Swan”

  Beaumé, Suzanne, photograph by

  Bécan, drawing by

  Becker, Jacques; Casque d’Or

 
beggars; clochards

  Belleville

  Belon, José, illustrations by

  Ben Barka, Mehdi

  Benjamin, Walter

  Béranger, Pierre-Jean de

  Bercy

  Bernhardt, Sarah

  Bernstein, Michèle

  Bertrand, Aloysius

  Bibi-la-Purée

  bicoques

  bidonvilles

  Bièvre

  Biribi

  bistros

  black flag

  black market

  blacks

  Blanqui, Louis-Auguste

  blind

  Bloy, Léon

  Blum, Léon

  boats, pleasure

  Boer War

  bohemia; Chat Noir; Montmartre; origin myth; Privat and; terminology

  Bois de Boulogne

  Bois de Vincennes

  boîte

  Bonaparte, Pierre

  Bonapartists

  bones

  Bonnard, Pierre

  Bonneff, Maurice and Léon

  Bonnot, Jules

  Bonnot Gang

  Bordas, Rosa

  Borel, Petrus

  Boudu Saved from Drowning (film)

  Boulanger, Georges Ernest

  Boule Noire

  Boulevard Arago

  Boulevard de Bonne-Nouvelle

  Boulevard de Clichy

  Boulevard de la Chapelle

  Boulevard de la Villette

  Boulevard de Ménilmontant

  Boulevard de Port-Royal

  Boulevard de Rochechouart

  Boulevard de Sébastopol

  Boulevard d’Italie

  Boulevard du Temple

  Boulevard Haussmann

  boulevards; cafés-concerts; street theater; see also specific boulevards

  Boulevard Saint-Germain

  Boulevard Saint-Michel

  Boulevards des Maréchaux

  bourgeoisie; Jewish

  Bouvier, Alexis

  Bouzingos

  Brassaï

  brasserie

  bread

  Brecht, Bertolt

  Breton, André: Anthology of Black Humor; Nadja

  brigade mondaine

  bridges

  Brocher-Rouchy, Victorine

  Bruant, Aristide; Le Bal des Puces; Les bas-fonds de Paris; “Belleville-Ménilmontant”; Dans la rue; “À la Roquette”; “À Saint-Lazare”

  Buffet, Eugénie

  Bugeaud, Thomas-Robert

  Burguet, Charles

  Buronfosse, Henri

  butchers

  Butte-aux-Cailles

  Buttes-Chaumont

  cabarets; drinking; terminology

  cafés-concerts

  cafés; bombings; codes and clientele; drinking; music; terminology

  Café Terminus bombing

  caïds

  Cain, Georges; Promenades dans Paris

  Callemin, Raymond

  Callot, Jacques, Les bohémiens en marche

  camelots

  Camelots du Roi

  canals

  Canal Saint-Martin

  cancan

  Cape Colony

  capital punishment

  Carbonari

  Carco, Francis; L’équipe; La lumière noire; Mon homme; Perversité; Rue Pigalle

  card players

  Carlingue

  Carné, Marcel

  carnival

  Carnot, Sadi

  Carouy, Édouard

  Carrousel

  Cartier-Bresson, Henri

  Cartouche

  Caserio, Sante Geronimo

  Casque d’Or

  Casque d’Or (film)

  castles

  Catacombs

  Catholics

  cats

  Cayenne

  Céline, Louis-Ferdinand

  cemeteries

  Cendrars, Blaise; Panorama de la pègre

  censorship

  chahut

  Champs-Élysées

  Charles V, King

  Charles X, King

  Charonne

  Chateaubriand

  Chat Noir

  Chevalier, Louis; The Assassination of Paris

  Chevalier, Maurice

  Chez Foyot bombing

  Chez Gégène

  Chez Guignard

  Chez Moineau

  chic (term)

  children; illegitimate; labor; prison

  Children of Paradise, The (film)

  Chinese

  cholera

  Chtcheglov, Ivan

  church

  cigarettes

  Cirque d’Hiver

  Cité

  Cité de la Muette

  Cité Doré

  cités

  claque

  Clark, T. J.

  Clébert, Jean-Paul; Paris insolite

  Clemenceau, Georges

  Clément, Jean-Baptiste, “Le temps des cerises”

  Clichy

  Clignancourt

  clochards

  clothing; apache; bohemian; couture; pimps; prostitutes

  clowns

  Cluseret, Gustave

  Cobb, Richard

  cobblers

  cocaine

  Cocteau, Jean

  coffee

  Collard, Hippolyte-Auguste, photograph by

  Comédie Française

  commedia dell’arte

  commerce, see industry; markets; shops; trades; vendors

  Commune; casualties; women

  communism

  Coppée, François

  Corsicans

  Coeur de lilas (film)

  Courbet, Gustave

  cour des miracles

  Cours de Vincennes

  Courteline, Georges

  courtyards

  Créteil

  crime; anarchists and; apaches; barrières and; Bonnot Gang; capital punishment; Corsican; Fantômas novels; immigrant; milieu; press; prison; underworld; women; Zone; see also specific criminals

  crippled

  Cros, Charles

  Croulebarbe

  cult of morbidity

  Dabit, Eugène

  Dada

  Daeninckx, Didier, Meurtres pour mémoire

  Dahou, Mohamed

  Damia; “En maison”

  dance halls

  dancers

  Darcier, Joseph

  Darien, Georges; Biribi; Les Pharisiens

  Daudet, Alphonse

  Daumier, Honoré; illustrations by

  David, Jacques-Louis

  Davis, Richard Harding

  Death, see cemeteries; cult of morbidity; guillotine; murder; public execution

  Debord, Guy; Guide psychogéographique de Paris; The Naked City

  Deburau, Charles

  Deburau, Jean-Gaspard

  Degas, Edgar

  de Gaulle, Charles

  Delacroix, Eugène

  Delannoy, Aristide, illustration by

  Delaunay-Belleville

  Delescluze, Charles

  Delvau, Alfred

  Dépôt

  Deprince, Adolphe

  Desbordes-Valmore, Marceline

  Descaves, Lucien; Barabbas

  Descente de la Courtille

  Desnos, Robert

  Detaille, Édouard

  Détective

  Dieudonné, Eugène

  Dignimont, André

  disabled veterans

  disease; prison; prostitutes; see also specific diseases

  dishwashers

  Dmitrieff, Élisabeth

  dogs

  Doisneau, Robert

  Don’t Touch the White Woman! (film)

  Dreyfus, Alfred

  drift (dérive)

  drinking; bohemia; clochards; terminology; types of establishments

  drugs

  Drumont, Édouard; La France juive

  Dubus, Édouard

  du Camp, Maxine

  Ducasse, Isidore, see Lautréamont

  Dumas, Alexandre;
Count of Monte Cristo; The Duchess of Salisbury; Les Mohicans de Paris

  dumps

  Dunan, Renée

  Dupin, Arthur

  du Seigneur, Jehan

  Duval, Clément

  Duvivier, Julien

  Eberhardt, Isabelle

  economy; black market; post-Commune; post–World War II; sex trade

  Écosse, woodcut by

  Edward VII, king of Britain

  Egypt

  Eiffel Tower

  Eighteenth Arrondissement

  Eighth Arrondissement

  Eisler, Hanns

  Eldorado

  Enfantin, Prosper

  Engels, Friedrich

  entertainment; cafés-concerts; carnival; dance halls; female singers; popular songs; street; theaters; see also specific entertainers

  Ernst, Max

  estaminet

  Étoile

  Eudes, Émile

  existentialism

  Fabrice, Delphi, L’opium à Paris

  factories

  fairs

  faits-divers

  Fantômas novels

  Fargue, Léon-Paul

  Farmers-General

  farmland

  faubourgs

  Faure, Félix

  Faure, Sébastien

  Fénéon, Félix

  Ferré, Théophile

  Ferreri, Marco

  Feuillade, Louis

  Féval, Paul

  Fieschi, Giuseppe

  Fifth Arrondissement

  Fifth Republic

  Fillon, Jacques; “Rational Description of Paris”

  film

  fires

  fireworks

  fish market

  flâneurs

  Flanner, Janet

  Flaubert, Gustave; Madame Bovary

  flea markets

  Fleshy Ox

  Fleur Blanche

  floods

  flophouses

  Florelle

  Flourens, Gustave

  flower markets

  Folies Bergère

  Follain, Jean

  Fontaney, Antoine

  food; anarchist; shortages

  fortifications

  Fort-Monjol

  forts (strongmen)

  Foucault, Sophie

  Fourmies massacre

  Fournel, Victor

  Fourteenth Arrondissement

  Fourth Arrondissement

  Fraipont, Gustave, drawing by

  France, Anatole

  Franco-Prussian War

  Frankel, Léo

  Fréhel; “La chanson des fortifs”; “La vraie de vrai”; “Sur le trottoir”

  French Guyana

  Front National

  Fuller, Loïe

  funeral wreath vendor

  Gabin, Jean

  Gainsbourg, Serge

  Gaîté

  gambling

  garbage

  gardens

  Gare d’Austerlitz

  Garnier, Octave

  Gascons

  gasworks

  Gauguin, Paul

  Gautier, Théophile

  Gauty, Lys

  Gavarni; illustrations by

 

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