by Ben Stewart
He lifts the binoculars and surveys the steel skeleton beneath the helicopter deck. That’s where he needs to get the lines up. The team practised for days in a Norwegian fjord before they set sail. They constructed a fake helideck and attached it to the crow’s nest of the Arctic Sunrise then bobbed in boats for hour after hour, firing ropes over it with catapults. After four days they were looping lines over the target nearly every time. But tomorrow morning they’ll have to hit piping forty metres above their heads, with the Russian coastguard barrelling down on them in speedboats.
He turns the binoculars back to the Ladoga and blinks at a glint of brilliant reflected sunlight. He squints. Nearly three miles away a man in a blue blazer and peaked cap is standing at an open door, holding his own binoculars, watching him.
Frank Hewetson has been sailing with Greenpeace for two decades. He’s been banned from the United States for crimes of moral turpitude, he’s broken into seven polluting power stations in four countries, and he once blocked the take-off of a British Airways jetliner at Heathrow airport in a protest against climate change. Three years ago he was skewered by a grappling hook thrown by a French sailor while he was protesting against illegal bluefin tuna fishing. The hook passed cleanly through his left leg, then the Frenchman pulled on the rope, dragging Frank along the floor of a boat. Frank had to cut the rope with a knife to stop himself becoming the fisherman’s latest illegal catch.
After twenty years leading direct action teams across the globe, he is the go-to guy if you want to scale an enormous piece of machinery being operated by a powerful company with a multi-million-dollar security operation. His colleagues call him ‘The Colonel’ – a nod to the confident cut-glass way he delivers orders, and because he chairs meetings wearing a World War Two tank driver’s uniform.
He turns around and leans back against the railing. The bow of the Arctic Sunrise is dipping and rising gently. Frank lifts his baseball cap and rubs a hand over his scalp then he looks up at the bridge and sees three faces behind a broad wall of glass. One of them – a middle-aged man in a cream and blue sweater – has a pair of binoculars pressed against circular steel-rimmed spectacles. He has short black hair and a beard that’s greying at the chin. His name is Dima Litvinov. His lips are moving but Frank can’t hear what he’s saying. If he could, he would hear an accent that sounds American but with a trace of something else. Dima is fifty-one years old, he was born in Russia and grew up in Siberia, where his family was exiled after his father challenged the Soviet regime. When he was twelve years old the Litvinovs were expelled from Russia and moved to New York.
Dima passes the binoculars to a young woman who lifts them to her face. She is Sini Saarela, an activist from Finland, thirty-one years old with a climber’s lean physique, a bob of blonde hair with a centre parting and sharp blue eyes. Last summer she climbed the side of that oil platform – the one she’s looking at now. She spent hours hanging from the Prirazlomnaya as she was blasted with freezing seawater fired from a cannon. The cold eventually forced her down, but a year has passed and now she’s back for more.
Tomorrow morning her job will be to scale the platform again. She’ll rig a pulley system, then the Greenpeace crew will lift a one-tonne, barrel-shaped survival pod equipped with state-of-the-art communications systems thirty metres above the water. There it will house three activists for as long as possible – days, maybe weeks – stopping the Prirazlomnaya from operating. That’s the plan. But it will only work if Sini and her friends can reach the platform before the Russian authorities deploy their own RHIBs from the coastguard ship. They’re in international waters, technically the Russians can’t arrest them; last year they did nothing more than watch as Sini was drenched with Arctic water. But this time it feels different. The coastguard started tailing the Greenpeace crew a few hours after they sailed from Norway towards the platform. The Russians’ radio messages were aggressive and uncompromising.
‘Arctic Sunrise, Arctic Sunrise, under no circumstances will you approach the Prirazlomnaya. There is an exclusion zone of three nautical miles around the platform. You are ordered to stay far away from the Prirazlomnaya.’
Sini passes the binoculars to a man dressed in a white T-shirt and shorts. He’s thickset with a handsome face and tanned skin. Pete Willcox is the 61-year-old American captain of the Arctic Sunrise. In three decades on Greenpeace ships he’s tangled with commandos and coastguard officers more times than he cares to remember. He’s sailed into nuclear test zones, swum in front of a US Navy destroyer and confronted Japanese whalers.
Frank first met him in 1991 when they plugged an outflow pipe at an Australian port where a mining company was pumping toxic effluent into the harbour. By then Pete Willcox was already a Greenpeace legend. Six years earlier he’d been the captain of the Rainbow Warrior when she was moored up in Auckland harbour, New Zealand. Pete was about to lead an expedition to protest against the French government’s plan to detonate a nuclear weapon on the Pacific island of Moruroa. Just before midnight a limpet mine attached to the hull of his ship exploded. It had been laid by agents of the French secret service.3
The blast shook Pete awake. He thought his ship had been hit by another boat and he started racing through the Warrior checking on the crew, getting everyone out on deck. His friend, the Portuguese-born photographer Fernando Pereira, initially came outside but returned to his cabin to save his cameras. Minutes after the first blast, a second mine detonated. Fernando, a father of two young children, was drowned.
Twenty-eight years later Pete Willcox is leading another expedition, and another nation’s security forces are determined to stop him. Before leaving Norway three days ago he sent his new wife a postcard. ‘If the Russians keep their sense of humour,’ he wrote, ‘I think this is going to be a fun action.’4
Frank has known Pete Willcox and Dima Litvinov for most of his quarter century as a Greenpeace activist. But he met most of the Sunrise crew for the first time when they arrived in Norway last week. He watched them walking along the dockside with their bags slung over their shoulders – climbers, sailors and campaigners from eighteen different countries. The oldest was the captain, the youngest was Camila Speziale, a 21-year-old Argentine climber who quit her job as a receptionist to occupy a pod hanging from the helicopter deck of a Russian Arctic oil platform.
The Sunrise is fifty metres long, an icebreaker painted green with a riot of rainbow colours at the bow. When she sailed into that Norwegian fjord for four days of training, this was a ship of strangers. Now they’re a tight crew. They spent the days firing catapults, climbing ropes, rigging the pulley system, lifting the pod. In the evenings they shared stories in the lounge. One night the ship’s intercom exploded with two words.
‘Northern lights!’
The crew ran out on deck and craned their necks. They draped their arms around each other’s shoulders as a flag of transparent green fabric flapped slowly in the sky above their heads from one horizon to the other. The next morning they docked in the Norwegian port of Kirkenes. Then they sailed for the Prirazlomnaya.
Frank turns around and grips the railing. Across the water is the most controversial oil rig in the world. It’s owned and operated by Gazprom, Russia’s state-owned energy giant. Sometime in the next few weeks Gazprom will try to become the first company in history to pump oil from the icy waters of the Arctic. Until now the thick sea ice has made drilling here almost impossible, but as temperatures rise the oil companies are moving north, and if the Prirazlomnaya succeeds it will spark a new Arctic oil rush. That’s why the Sunrise is here. That’s why, right now, across this ship, thirty men and women are making final preparations to scale that platform and shut it down.
Frank leans over the bow and sees his reflection in the water. He breathes deeply and looks up. The last of the sun is sinking below the horizon. When it next appears, he’ll give the order to go.
TWO
The portholes are screwed shut. The doors are closed. Nobody is allowed on deck. No
t yet. To the coastguard officers defending the Russian oil platform three miles across the water, the Arctic Sunrise is sleeping.
But the Russians are wrong. It’s 3 a.m. and every one of the crew of thirty is up and awake. Wide awake. Frank is pacing the hold, checking his watch. He’s wearing a yellow drysuit under a life jacket and he’s carrying a crash helmet with a transparent visor. Every few minutes he asks the British video journalist Kieron Bryan to join him at a porthole, where they lift the lid just a fraction and peek through, searching for sight of the sun, waiting for enough light to film the protest.
The sea isn’t as flat as Frank had hoped it would be. He can hear waves slapping against the side of the ship, and when he looks over at the oil platform – lit up like a shopping centre – it sometimes disappears behind a swell of water.
Now the crew is making last-minute checks. Phil Ball, who will occupy the pod with the young Argentine Camila Speziale, is patting his chest, yanking karabiners, adjusting his helmet. Have I got everything? Is it in the right place? Is it comfortable? Can I still grab hold of it if there’s a water cannon firing in my face?
At 3.30 a.m., through the porthole, Kieron sees the lip of the sun. Frank asks him if there’s enough light to capture the action.
‘I think so. Just.’
The crew is clustered together in teams, whispering to one another, checking the plan and checking again. ‘Okay,’ Frank announces. ‘Everybody!’ They look up, expectantly. A pause, then, ‘We’re doing it.’
Frank watches the activists blow out their cheeks and shake hands with each other. In front of him, Sini Saarela and Kruso Weber – a Swiss climber – are standing face to face, checking the other’s kit one last time. Frank needs these two to perform today. If they can get up the side of that oil rig and hold their position, this thing might happen. He looks around. The activists are nervous, they’re bouncing on their toes, their eyes are darting around the hold.
The boat drivers creep out onto the deck, using stairs and barrels for cover, thinking, as long as we stay low, as long as we can’t see the coastguard ship, then they can’t see us. Slowly, silently, the first RHIB – called Hurricane – is slipped into the water and moves up to the pilot door. Welshman Anthony Perrett helps the video journalist Kieron Bryan and the climber Kruso Weber to clamber in. Kieron presses ‘record’ and raises his camera, the black inflatable bow of the boat lifts and suddenly they’re tearing around the Sunrise into open water. Ahead of them a spotlight breaks the dawn. The beam is coming from the coastguard ship Ladoga and within seconds it’s sweeping across the rolling water towards them. Now the activists are bathed in blinding light, but they’re still going full tilt, the boat is crunching through the waves. Already they can see the Russians launching their own boats.
A few seconds behind them a second Greenpeace RHIB – Parker – is rounding the bow of the Arctic Sunrise. In that boat are Frank and Sini. From the deck of the Sunrise, the pod – white and blue, built specifically for this moment – is being lowered into the water. Watching through binoculars from the bridge of the Sunrise is Dima Litvinov. He lifts a radio to his mouth and barks, ‘Prirazlomnaya, Prirazlomnaya, this is Arctic Sunrise.’
There’s a crackle of static, then, ‘Arctic Sunrise, this is Prirazlomnaya.’
‘This is a peaceful action, a non-violent protest against oil drilling and the threat that it represents to the Arctic environment and to the climate. There is no risk of damage to your property, we are in unarmed boats, we are not going to attempt to take over your platform. This is a peaceful protest. I repeat, this is a peaceful protest.’
An officer on the Ladoga breaks in. ‘Arctic Sunrise, halt all activity. Raise your boats!’
The Russian RHIBs are in the water now, but the activists’ boats are already pulling up under the platform. It’s huge, 120 metres long on each side. Anthony Perrett stands up in Hurricane and raises a catapult. It’s more than a metre long, with a rubber sling that fires a lead shot attached to a bag of sand that pulls a thin line.
His first shot misses but his second shot arches over three metal bars then slowly slips down as a coastguard RHIB roars through the water towards them. The rope is four metres above his head, now three, he flicks it, it’s nearly there. The Russian boat is close now, they can hear it rounding the corner of the platform. Anthony reaches up and grabs the line, attaches a thicker climbing rope to it and starts pulling on the other end, watching the rope rising higher and higher. He goes to pass it off to Kruso, it’s a metre from the climber’s hand, he’s a second or two from clipping in and starting the climb when the coastguard RHIB tears around the side of the platform, white surf churning from its motor. It ploughs directly into their boat, then a masked Russian commando lunges at the rope with a knife and cuts it clean through.
Out in open water Suzie Q – the biggest of the campaigners’ RHIBs – is towing the pod towards the platform with two smaller boats flanking her. But the pace of the flotilla is painfully slow. The boats are struggling through the water, it’s like they’re stuck in honey, and in the distance they can see a coastguard boat ramming a RHIB below the platform. Then suddenly – thwack! – Suzie Q lurches and a rope whips the water. The line has broken. Phil Ball looks back and stares at the pod, floating forlornly, pathetically unattached.
Silence, a static buzz, then Frank’s voice on the radio. ‘Dump the pod and get here. Now! All boats to the platform. All boats!’
The bow of Suzie Q lifts in the water and a moment later they’re tearing towards the Prirazlomnaya. A few minutes later they’ve joined the action and, through a spray of water, Phil can clearly see two Russian boats carrying soldiers wearing black balaclavas over their faces, bodies camouflaged from top to bottom. Suddenly one of them pulls a knife and lunges at Kieron, trying to grab his camera, but the camera is attached to his chest by a cord. If the guy gets hold of it then Kieron’s going to be pulled out of the boat. The Russian falls short, he leans down and stabs Parker’s rubber inflatable rim, then he reaches for his hip and pulls a gun. He points it at Kieron then swings it round so it’s pointing at the chest of Italian activist Cristian D’Alessandro, who is standing at the bow of Suzie Q. The Russian is screaming something but nobody understands him. Cristian thrusts his arms into the air and shouts, ‘Don’t shoot, don’t shoot!’ A wave lifts both boats, their eyes are locked, the barrel of the gun is a metre from Cristian’s chest, both of them are shouting at each other, then the wave dissipates and the boats fall and drift apart. Suzie Q throws up a wall of spray and pulls away with Hurricane just behind her, leaving the Russians in their wake.
Out at sea the pod is being retrieved by the Sunrise, but the activists are still determined to secure a climb team on the side of the platform. If they can get Sini and Kruso onto the rig they can unfurl banners and focus global attention on Gazprom’s plan to drill for oil in the Arctic. They’ve lost the pod, but they can still make their stand.
On the eastern side of the platform Parker pulls up under a mooring line. Sini aims a catapult and fires a rope over it, checks it’s secure, clips in and pulls. But a moment later a Russian boat speeds in, a coastguard officer pulls a knife and in a flash the rope above Sini is cut and she falls into the water. Her life vest inflates with the hissing sound of pressurised air. Frank reaches over the side of Parker and pulls Sini into the boat. She falls back, gasping.
On the other side of the platform Hurricane is pulling a huge sweep around the rig, with the chasing coastguard in her wake. Anthony spots another mooring line. He thinks he can get a rope over it. Hurricane pulls up, Anthony raises the catapult and fires a perfect shot. The rope is twenty metres up the side of the platform, Kruso grabs it and starts climbing.
Parker has abandoned the east side and a minute later is alongside Hurricane. Sini grabs the rope and clips in.
‘Do you really want to go?’ Frank shouts. ‘You were just in the water – are you okay to climb?’
‘It’s all right, I’m fine. I feel
good.’
Frank nods and a second later she pulls and swings out over the water.
‘I’m coming after you,’ she shouts up at Kruso. ‘I’m just behind you!’
Below her the coastguard boat pushes against Parker. A Russian officer grabs Sini’s rope and starts yanking it, swinging her from side to side. She unclips the safety knife from her harness, reaches down and cuts the rope beneath her. The officer stares at the rope falling into the bottom of his boat in a little heap. He pulls a gun. Sini looks down, she can see it. The guy’s pointing the pistol at her and shouting in Russian. Adrenaline surges through her body, her arms wrench her up the rope, as far away from that gun as she can get.
The coastguard boat is ramming Hurricane now. The officers are still eyeing Kieron’s camera; it’s obvious they want to seize it, they’ve already grabbed at it four or five times. Frank makes the call to get Kieron and his footage back to the Sunrise. ‘Kieron, we’re coming to get you!’ Parker swings around so Frank is five metres from Hurricane. Frank shouts, ‘It’s time to go!’ Kieron unclips the camera and throws it over the water. Frank fumbles it but manages to keep hold. ‘That’s great,’ he shouts, ‘but I need you too!’
By now the gap between the boats is about a metre and the waves are washing them up and down in a deep sweep. Kieron screws up his eyes and hurls himself over the water, falling into Parker. Frank slaps him on the back as the driver opens the throttle, the bow lifts and they tear away from the platform and towards the safety of the Arctic Sunrise, leaving the other RHIBs to watch over Sini and Kruso.
Suddenly the climbers are being pummelled with water. It freezes their brains and seizes their limbs. The platform workers are using high-powered jets to spray Arctic water over them. The higher they climb, the more pressured the water is and the harder it is to see or feel or hear anything. Sini is just below Kruso on the rope now, but the water is incessant. Freezing. She pulls out a banner – ‘SAVE THE ARCTIC’ – but it attracts multiple direct jets and disappears in a riot of spray.