CRAZY IN THE KITCHEN
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
Virginia Woolf s First Voyage: A Novel in the Making
Nathaniel Hawthorne (Feminist Reading Series)
Casting Off: A Novel
Virginia Woolf: The Impact of Childhood
Sexual Abuse on Her Life and Work
Conceived with Malice: Literature as Revenge in the
Lives and Works of Virginia and Leonard Woolf D. H. Lawrence,
Djuna Barnes, and Henry Miller
Vertigo: A Memoir
Breathless: An Asthma Journal
Writing as a Way of Healing: How Telling Our Stories
Transforms Our Lives
Adultery: A Memoir
AS EDITOR
Between Women: Biographers, Novelists, Critics, Teachers,
and Artists Write About Their Work on Women
(coedited with Carol Ascher and Sara Ruddick)
The Letters of Vita Sackville-West to Virginia Woolf
(coedited with Mitchell A. Leaska)
A Green and Mortal Sound: Short Fiction by Irish Women Writers
(coedited with Kathleen Walsh D'Arcy and Catherine Hogan)
The Milk of Almonds: Italian American Women Writers
on Food and Culture (coedited with Edvige Giunta)
Melymbrosia: Virginia Woolfs First Novel
CRAZY IN THE KITCHEN
Food, Feuds, and Forgiveness in an Italian American Family
LOUISE DESALVO
BLOOMSBURY
Copyright © 2004 by Louise DeSalvo
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. For information address Bloomsbury Publishing, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010.
Published by Bloomsbury Publishing, New York and London
Distributed to the trade by Holtzbrinck Publishers
All papers used by Bloomsbury Publishing are natural, recyclable
products made from wood grown in well-managed forests.
The manufacturing processes conform to the environmental
regulations of the country of origin.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows:
DeSalvo, Louise A., 1942
Crazy in the kitchen : food, feuds, and forgiveness in an Italian American family / Louise
DeSalvo.— 1st U.S. ed.
p. cm.
eISBN: 978-1-59691-766-8
1. DeSalvo, Louise A., 1942 Childhood and youth. 2. DeSalvo, Louise A., 1942 Family.
3. Italian Americans— New Jersey— Biography. 4. Italian Americans— New Jersey— Social life
and customs. 5. Italian American families— New Jersey. 6. Italian Americans— Ethnic identity.
7. Cookery, Italian— Social aspects. 8. Food— Social aspects. I. Title.
F145.I8D475 2004
974.9'00451'0092 c22
2003015297
First published by Bloomsbury in hardcover in 2004
This paperback edition published in 2005
1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2
Typeset by Hewer Text Ltd, Edinburgh
Printed in the United States of America by
Quebecor World Fairfield
for Edi, for Ernie, for Craig, for my father,
and in memory of my grandparents
And might it not be . . . that we also have appointments to keep in the past, in what has gone before and is for the most part extinguished, and must go there in search of places and people who have some connection with us on the far side of time . . . ?
W. G. Sebald, Austerlitz
CONTENTS
Prologue: Wild Things
Part One: Cutting the Bread
The Bread
The Other Bread
Convenience Foods
Making the Bread
Kneading the Dough
The Knife
Slicing Onions
Breaking the Dishes
Home Ec
Part Two: Wounds
Keepsakes
Slingshot
Handwork
Dark White
Passing the Saint
Food on the Table
Holy Oil
Part Three: Chasing Ghosts
Hunger
Puglia Diary
Big Shot
Nightmare (Without Food)
Food Fights
The House by the River
Appetite
Part Four: Communion
Courtship (with Food)
Matchmaking
Respect
Feeding the Dead
Wiping the Bowl
No More Cooking, No More Food
Tearing the Bread
Epilogue: Playing the Bowl
Acknowledgments
PROLOGUE: WILD THINGS
There were wild things in my grandparents' stories about the Mezzogiorno, the South of Italy, the land that they came from so many years ago, always wild things. Wild jackasses that tossed you off their backs if you dared to mount them, that wouldn't let you ride them through the sun-scorched fields in the heat of day to get to the field where you had to work. Wild wolves that came into villages at night to carry babies away to eat them, which was one reason why it was necessary, always necessary, to close up a house at night, even in summertime, even here in America, even on the fourth floor of a tenement in Hoboken, New Jersey.
There were wild, raging seas that surrounded the land my grandparents came from, wild seas that drowned fishermen, that spun overloaded ferryboats around and around and then swamped them so that they sank to the bottom of the sea. There were rogue waves forty feet high that engulfed seaside villages, that left no trace of buildings or of people when the waters receded. Rainfalls so powerful they made the land slide away, down hillsides, or into the sea. Rainfalls so relentless in some years that they washed away all the good earth and made it impossible to grow anything to eat.
And even the earth was wild. There were earthquakes that came without warning, that opened deep gouges in the earth's crust, earthquakes that swallowed people, animals, houses, entire villages. Earthquakes that made buildings crack and crumble and come crashing down on families eating their suppers, praying together, tangled together on the floor in sleep. There were volcanoes that erupted, covering villages with lava, volcanoes spewing deadly gases that suffocated people as they were arguing, gathering food, working in the fields, sweeping steps, cleaning houses, cooking supper, baking bread.
There were wild sandy winds that came up from Africa that could rip the stubble off your face if you hadn't shaved in the morning, or, if you had, could leave your face as scratched and scarred as if you'd had a ferocious argument with a wild woman. There were bitterly cold winds that came down from the north in winter that could turn a person in a field into a frozen statue.
There was the sun in July and August, about which my grandfather always shook his head. The sun that baked the ground, that took every droplet of moisture from it, that raised blisters on your body, that made working in the fields in summer a purgatory, that turned people like my grandfather who worked the land as dark as the land they worked. And, my grandfather said, those who worked the fields in summer in the land where he came from would go straight to heaven no matter how many evils they had committed because, by doing this work, they had already atoned for their sins.
In my grandparents' stories, there were swarms of mosquitoes that could engulf you, give you a hundred mosquito bites, and malaria, which could kill you. Dangerous vipers that fell out of trees and wound themselves around your neck and choked you to death. V
ipers that slithered out from under rocks and struck you and poisoned you. There were tarantulas that could bite you and drive you crazy. And the only cure, my grandfather said, was to dance and dance and dance until you fell to the ground, exhausted, and then you would be cured, because the dancing had used up all the poison.
There were feral cats that ate their babies, my grandmother said, which was all right, because the babies would die anyway— there wasn't even enough food for people in the land where my grandparents came from. There were bands of wild dogs, even more dangerous than wolves, my grandmother said, because wolves tra- veled at night, but dogs traveled during the day, and in packs, so you could encounter them while you were in the fields and this was why you needed a stout stick, when you worked outdoors, to beat off the dogs.
There were parents wild with grief because their babies had been taken away by wolves and eaten, or because their children had died of malaria, or of starvation, or for no reason at all. There were wild gangs of children without parents, roving the streets, living in alleyways, under bridges, in railroad tunnels, wild gangs of children, stealing money, stealing clothing, stealing newspapers for bedding, wood for fires to warm them, stealing food or garbage so they would not starve, and these gangs of wild children would crawl all over you if they caught you, and take the hat off your head, the boots off your feet, your overalls, your money if you had any, your long underwear even, my grandfather said. There were wild gangs of bandits hiding out in the countryside, living in caves, who would beat you and steal from you and maybe kill you if you were unlucky enough to encounter them.
There were men wild with rage at their wives or sisters who disgraced them, who dragged their women into the piazzas of villages to beat them so that all would see they were men who could keep them in line, my grandmother said. And there were men wild with rage at their children who had to be beaten to make them obedient, and children so wild that no amount of beating would make them behave. There were wild girls who would become wild women no decent man would marry, roaming the streets after dark, going with any man, for a coin, for a meal, for a place to sleep, disgracing their families, making it impossible for their sisters to marry, getting old, getting ugly, getting diseases, dying alone.
And there were ferocious invading armies as far back as anyone could remember— armies of Romans, Lombards, Greeks, Arabs, Germans, French, Spanish. Some would murder everyone in a village, burn the buildings to the ground, leave no evidence of life. Others would force the people to become slaves, would work them to death or move them to faraway places. And none of these invaders, my grandparents said, had ever helped the poor of the South. And the people from the North, my grandfather said, they were invaders, too.
And this was why there were men and women who joined wild bands of peasants and brigands and anarchists who fought the invaders, who rebelled against the conquerors (and I imagined my ancestors among them), and this had been going on for as long as anyone could remember. And, my grandparents said, many of our people— men, women— fought for their right to a crust of bread even though the government called up armies to fight our people when they rebelled.
But there were wild vegetables more delicious than any in America, and some you couldn't even get here. There were lampascioni (bulbs of the wild tassel hyacinth), cicorielle (wild chicory), acetosella (sorrel), radicchielle (dandelion) that you could find in the fields, and cook and dress with olive oil and a little salt, if you had any. But you needed permission from the landowners to scavenge, which wasn't often granted, or you could steal them, which is what my grandmother did when she was hungry, but stealing was dangerous.
And there were wild fish in the lakes and streams and in the sea, but you could not fish without permission because it was against the law. The rich, my grandfather said, owned everything. The poor, my grandfather said, owned nothing in the land where he came from, they did not even own their own shit, which was taken from them by the landlords for fertilizing the fields where the poor, like my grandfather, worked for almost nothing.
But there were wild flowers in spring everywhere— asphodel, mustard, orchids tiny as a fingertip, scarlet poppies— and these flowers were the earth's gift to the poor, my grandparents said, and they were so beautiful they could make you cry. The flowers, I liked to hear about, because there were very few in Hoboken, mostly pots of geraniums on fire escapes. But one summer, my grandfather showed me a flower growing between the cracks of the sidewalk on our block, and he told me that this flower, the cornflower, also grew in the land where they came from.
My grandfather said that except for the flowers, it was hard to live with all these wild things, but that it was hardest of all to live with the wild things— the fish and the vegetables— that could have appeased your hunger but that you couldn't have.
Then one day, my grandfather told me, there were wild gangs of people rushing up gangplanks to steamships in all the ports of the land where my grandparents came from, clutching suitcases and packages and babies, for their trip across the ocean to America. And one of these people was my grandfather, and then, later, one of these people was my grandmother. This was how my mother's parents had come to America, my grandfather said. And this was how my father's parents had come to America too, and their story was similar but not the same.
And, no, my grandparents said, they would never go back to that place, they spit on that place, they said, though not because of the wild things that were there. They spit on that place because there, no matter how hard you worked, you stayed poor. The place they came from, my grandfather said, was like a parent who wouldn't feed its hungry children, a parent who cast out its daughters and sons to scavenge for food in other places. Wherever you could earn your crust of bread, wherever you didn't go hungry, my grandparents said, is where you should call home.
After my grandparents died, I forgot what they had told me about the place my ancestors came from. Years later, I began to remember their stories. And then I learned that their stories, which I believed were fabrications when I was young, were true, all true.
Part One
CUTTING THE BREAD
THE BREAD
My grandmother is in the kitchen cutting the Italian bread that she has made. The bread that my grandmother has made is a big bread, a substantial bread, a bread that you can use for dunking, or for open-faced sandwiches, or for scraping the last bit of sauce from a bowl of pasta, or for toasting and eating with jam, or for breaking into soups and stews, or for eating with a little olive oil and a shake of coarse salt, or with a thick slice of slightly underripe tomato, or with the juices and seeds of a very ripe tomato and some very green olive oil (pane e pomarole).
My grandmother's bread is a good bread, not a fine bread. A bread that will stay fresh, cut side down, on the breadboard for three or four days, depending on the weather. A thick-crusted, coarse-crumbed Italian bread. A peasant bread. A bread that my mother disdains because it is everything that my grandmother is, and everything that my mother, in 1950s suburban New Jersey, is trying very hard not to be.
My grandmother's bread and the pizza she makes from her bread dough— tomato and cheese; garlic and olive oil; onion, sugar, and poppy seeds— are the foods that sustain me throughout my childhood. Without them, I know I would starve, because I hate everything my mother cooks. Hate it, because my mother burns the food that she cooks or puts too much salt in it or forgets to time the chicken and brings it to the table running with blood because she doesn't pay attention or because she is angry at my grandmother, at me, at the world, or because she is depressed and doesn't care about food, doesn't care about anything. Hate it because the ingredients themselves are terrible— gristly meat, bloated bratwurst, fatty sausage, slightly off hamburger gotten for a bargain that she tries to disguise with catsup and Worcestershire sauce. Or hate it (without realizing it then) because I can taste the rage in her food, can hear it in the slamming and banging of the pots and pans in her kitchen, in the clash of metal against metal i
n her stirring.
The kitchen, when my mother is cooking, is not a place I want to be. And so. No cookie-baking in the kitchen. No rolling out pie dough together. No lessons in how to make sauce.
And my mother's rage— at me for being selfish, at my grandmother for living with us since my grandfather died, at herself for her never-ending sorrow at not being able to create a life that can sustain her in spite of her loving my father, loving us (me and my sister), or so she says to my father, but never to me— scares me, makes me want to hide in a closet or rush from the house. It is a thick, scorching rage that I cannot predict, cannot control, cannot understand, a rage that I can feel against my skin. It is a rage that I do not want to catch from her. Though, of course, I do.
And so. I do not eat my mother's food if I can help it. Do not enter the kitchen when she cooks. Do not help her cook, for she will not let me, and prefers when I am not near her, when no one is near her. Do not help her clear the dishes, do not help her clean after we eat. And I leave the table, leave the kitchen, as soon and as fast as I can after what passes for supper in our house.
My eating my grandmother's bread and my not eating my mother's food is one reason my mother screams at me. (She has others: that I will not play with my sister and so keep her out of my mother's hair; that I sulk; that I answer back; that I have a mind of my own; that I am a burden; that I always have my nose in a book; that I do not love her; that I escape the house as often as I can; that I climb onto the roof from the upstairs bathroom window whenever there is a fight in our house, which is often, and so make a spectacle of myself, and let the neighbors know that despite my mother's superclean floors, her superladylike behavior, and her super-American ways, all is not well in our house.)
Crazy in the Kitchen Page 1