Now a surprising thing happened. Mr. Roon drew himself up in his chair. He took the body of an imaginary telephone in his left hand. He lifted an imaginary receiver from its hook and placed it against his ear. Then, in spite of his unmistakable British accent, he launched into an unmistakable imitation of Mr. Bern.
“I am running a business, Mr. Shmootz, not an eleemosynary institution. Do you realize what it means, Mr. Shmootz, when you are callous enough not to pay one of my bills promptly? Let me tell you, Mr. Shmootz, let me tell you what it means. You are striking a blow at the faith of the average citizen in the country’s movers and shakers. We are in the depths of a depression, Mr. Shmootz. Are you aware of that? Are you—?”
This time it was my laughter that stopped him. Mr. Roon was clearly pleased by my response. He cleared his throat, not unlike an actor acknowledging the applause of an audience.
“By the way,” he said, “who is Mr. Shmootz?”
“No, not Shmootz,” I said. “Shimnitz.”
“Shimnitz?” Mr. Roon said.
“Yes,” I said. “He’s one of our clients. He’s always way behind in his bills, and Mr. Bern is always yelling at him. I don’t know what he wrote to you in that letter, but I guess he wanted to explain he didn’t mean to talk to you like that. Mr. Bern thought he was talking to Mr. Shimnitz.”
Mr. Roon scowled up at the ceiling.
“Shimnitz?” he said.
“Yes,” I said.
“What does Shimnitz mean?”
It had never occurred to me that names had to mean something. Then it occurred to me that Shmootz meant something to Mr. Roon.
“I don’t know what Shimnitz means,” I said.
But I did know that shmootz in Yiddish meant dirt. How did Mr. Roon know what it meant? A boy with an accent like that? Named Roon?
“Well,” I said, standing up, “I guess I’d better get back to the office.”
Mr. Roon said, “Hahf a mo.” He pulled a watch from his outer breast pocket. It hung from a thin gold chain that ended in a gold medallion stuck through the buttonhole of Mr. Roon’s jacket. “Getting on for noon,” he said, and dropped the watch back into his pocket. “Do you have a lunch date?”
He might just as well have asked where I housed my stable of polo ponies. In order to get through the week on my basic three dollars, lunch did not exist for me as a part of the day’s program. This was no hardship. Between the staying-power breakfast my mother fed me before I left home, and the cuppa cawfee and ruggle to which Mr. Bern treated me while I was having his shoes shined, I had no trouble or discomfort in getting through to my Stewart’s hot meal before classes at night. But it wasn’t really a question of money. It was simply that lunch dates were outside my social experience.
In high school, to which I used to bring my lunch in a paper bag, I always ate the midday meal with a group of my friends on one of the benches in the yard. At night, in Stewart’s, after my tray was loaded, I would look around the cafeteria and, if I saw a classmate, I would cross to his table and eat with him. But to make a date with someone in advance? A date to meet in a restaurant for the purpose of eating lunch? That happened only in novels.
“No,” I said, “but Mr. Bern—”
“Why not come along with me?” Mr. Roon said, and then he seemed to grasp something. “I meant to say, come as my guest.”
“But Mr. Bern—”
“Oh, I’ll take care of that,” Mr. Roon said. He reached across for his phone. “What’s your office number?” I told him and Mr. Roon told it to the operator. A few moments later he was saying, “Maurice Saltzman & Company? This is Mr. Roon. I. G. Roon? May I talk with Mr. Bern? Thank you.” Pause. “Oh, Mr. Bern. Sebastian Roon here.”
Sebastian? What was that? It sounded like something out of Shakespeare. Miss Marine’s English class took shape in my head. It was something out of Shakespeare Sebastian, a young gentleman of Messaline, brother of Viola. What was he doing here on 21st Street between Seventh and Eighth Avenues?
“Yes, he did give the letter to me,” Mr. Roon was saying into the phone. “It was terribly decent of you to send it over, Mr. Bern, but really, you know, it was totally unnecessary. I knew at once that you had assumed you were talking to somebody else. It’s quite all right, I assure you. No harm done, and no hard feelings. Quite. But I wonder if you would do me a favor? The young man who brought the letter? Oh, is that his name? Good. Could I borrow Mr. Kramer, do you think, for an hour or so? He’s all fussed about getting back to the office on the double, but I do need him for a bit of business, and I wondered if you’d be good enough to allow him to—My word, no, I don’t want him for that long, but an hour or so of his time would be most helpful. Thank you so much, Mr. Bern, You are very kind.” Mr. Roon hung up. He spread his hands wide and grinned at me. “Voilà,” he said. He came around the desk, put out his hand, and said, “Delighted to meet you, Mr. Benjamin Kramer.”
We shook hands and I said, “Delighted to meet you, too, but I’m a little confused.”
“About what?”
“You are Mr. Roon, aren’t you?”
“Have been since birth,” he said.
“But I just heard you tell Mr. Bern on the phone your name is Sebastian.”
“Why shouldn’t I? Since it is?”
“Then you’re not...?”
Mr. Roon laughed, “I see what’s confusing you,” he said. “No, I am not I. G. Roon. I. G. Roon is my uncle, who owns this bloody business. I’m his nephew Sebastian, and if I’m a good boy, and I don’t blot my copybook, and if I play my cards correctly, someday I may own this bloody business. Now come along. I’m getting a bit peckish.”
He led me into the other room. Neither the old man nor the old lady at the stand-up desks turned as we crossed to the front door. When he pulled it open, Sebastian Roon called to them across his shoulder, “Back at two.”
In the elevator going down, I could see him examining me out of the corner of his eye. I didn’t mind. I had been working downtown—when I first got the job with M.S.&Co., we were still living on East Fourth Street, and I thought of the area in which I worked as uptown—long enough to know that I was properly dressed. In fact, I had the feeling that my graduation suit was a bit more proper than Mr. Roon’s oddly cut tveet. As for his blue pinstriped shirt, anybody could tell, anyway I could, that it was one of those two-collar jobs, and he was on his second day: the collar was crisp and fresh, but the cuffs were slightly soiled.
His tie. Well. Let’s just say it wasn’t even in the running with my Aunt Sarah’s bar mitzvah present. On the whole, in the muster-passing area of life, I felt I was passing this one without even panting. I was pleased, and I knew why.
In the move up from East Fourth Street to the Bronx, I had left behind something that had for so long been a part of my daily existence that it never occurred to me it would ever stop. But it had. On Tiffany Street I discovered I had left behind not only East Fourth Street, but all my friends. I missed them.
I had plenty of acquaintances. The members of Mr. Bern’s staff. My fellow students in the evening classes at C.C.N.Y. Hannah Halpern. But the members of Mr. Bern’s staff vanished after the workday was done. My fellow students materialized on 23rd Street at six in the evening and went home after classes. Occasionally I would see Hannah more than once a week, but it took a Jewish holiday to accomplish that I no longer had what I’d had on East Fourth Street
Natie Farkas. George Weitz. Chink Alberg. Kids I saw every day, all day. At school. At cheder. In the evening at boy scout troop meetings. Someone to walk to school with. Bat out a few fungoes. Play lievio. Swap dirty stories. Someone to discuss a piece of bad news with, or a rumor, or a plan, or make jokes with. Someone you could bring a piece of good news to, or a scrap of juicy gossip, or a troubling question, or with whom you could just share an idle hour sitting on the dock staring out at the river traffic. I no longer had any friends.
But I was keeping my eyes open. Which is why I was pleased when, in the
elevator coming down from the I. G. Roon offices, I felt I had passed muster with Sebastian Roon. The thought that this might lead to our becoming friends was a startling mental leap, but pleasant to contemplate.
An Englishman and I? Friends? Like in the newsreels the Prince of Wales? Or in Dickens, David Copperfield and Steerforth? My friend? Jesus! On the other hand, he had invited me to lunch. Maybe...?
I did not know it at the time, but this was my first experience with the heady temptations of snobbery.
“Do you mind if we go to Shane’s?” Sebastian said when we were out in the street. Sebastian, eh? Not Sebastian Roon? Or Mr. Roon? Take it easy, Benny. You’re not friends yet.
“On Twenty-third Street?” I said.
“Yes,” he said. “I see you know it.”
I knew it the way I knew the Metropolitan Opera House. Something I passed every day but had never been inside. Shane’s was one of those restaurants that were mentioned regularly in the newspapers, usually in the Broadway columns, in connection with the activities of famous people: politicians, actors, sports figures, and radio personalities. The windows were curtained in heavy accordion-pleated brown rep, so it was impossible to see what went on inside. Whenever I walked by the restaurant on my way to C.C.N.Y., however, I would break step for a moment in the hope that someone would shove the door open and I might get a glimpse of the interior.
I never did. All I ever saw was the disemboweled deer that hung by its tied rear legs on a hook at one side of the door when venison was in season, and the cluster of grouse, tied together like a bouquet of feathers, heads down, that replaced the deer when the venison season was over. Or maybe it was the other way around. I never understood why Shane’s did not serve venison and grouse at the same time, but I did understand that I had just had an unusual invitation.
“No,” I said, “I don’t know it. But I know about it. I mean I’ve never been there, but I read about Shane’s in the papers all the time.”
“Good,” Sebastian Roon said. “Then you’re in for a treat. At least I hope you’ll find it a treat. The food’s jolly good.”
I didn’t doubt it. Not only because it was a reasonable guess to draw the inference that a restaurant frequented by famous people would have to serve food that was jolly good, but also because coming to work on my first job uptown—now downtown—had caused me to experience a shock of disloyalty to my mother.
Like most kids on East Fourth Street, I had never eaten anything but my mother’s cooking. I had always found it adequate. This may sound disparaging. Not at all. It seems to me the accurate word for describing a piece of daily existence without which you could not continue to exist and about which you have no complaints. Like breathing. Or sleeping. Some of the things my mother cooked pleased me more than others, of course, but none displeased me. Whether her best was better or worse than the cooking of somebody else, I did not know. The question never crossed my mind. How could it? I had never eaten anybody else’s cooking.
Then I went to work on 34th Street, and my horizons, which I had been prepared to see widen, did more than that: they exploded. It happened one day while I was waiting for Mr. Bern’s shoes to be shined.
I had got out of bed with a slightly upset stomach. So, instead of having my usual ruggle and cuppa cawfee, I kept the dime in my pocket. Later in the day, on my way to Lou G. Siegel’s delicatessen on 39th Street for Mr. Bern’s daily pastrami sandwich, I made the discovery that my morning queasiness had given way to midday hunger. Fortunately, I was on my way toward, not back from, Lou G. Siegel’s. So I was not yet carrying the sandwich that would be considerably reduced in temperature if, before delivering the pastrami sandwich to Mr. Bern, I took time out to get something to eat for myself. Also, at that moment on my way uptown, I happened to be passing the Automat next to Macy’s.
I had walked in and looked around the place several times. I was fascinated by the little windows out of which popped foods I had never heard of, but my fascination did not lead me to satisfy my curiosity. For a man working on a three-dollar-a-week base allowance, the prices were too high. On this day, however, I had a windfall: the dime I had not spent on my morning ruggle and cuppa cawfee. I did not wait to hear the arguments of caution surfacing in my head like bubbles of fat in a pot of boiling soup. I turned into the Automat.
The first thing you saw when you came in was the wall of sandwiches on the left. And the first thing I saw was in the top window of the first vertical row of windows: a big round roll, dark brown, covered with sesame seeds. It was sliced in half horizontally across the middle. The top half was separated from the bottom half by two thick slabs of pink meat. To the right of the window, in black letters on a white celluloid card set in a silver slot was printed: HAM SANDWICH 2 NICKLES.
It could not have been more terrifying to a boy from East Fourth Street and Tiffany Street if the words on the card had read: ABANDON HOPE, ALL YE WHO ENTER HERE.
My mother had always, of course, operated a strictly kosher kitchen. The concept of ham had never even crossed my consciousness, much less my lips. But I was not at the moment in my mother’s kitchen. Nor was I, in actual fact, in my right mind. It was as though the notion of committing murder had crossed my consciousness as an idle fancy and then, to my horror, I found myself knife in hand, standing over a helpless victim.
I sent cautious glances around the crowded restaurant. Quickly, furtively, I dropped in my two nickles. I twisted the knob. The small glass door popped open. I pulled out the plate. Head bowed, I went to a table against the wall, sat down and picked up the sandwich. I took my first bite, and was lost. I have never been the same since.
Not only because until that moment I had never tasted anything so good. My life was changed irrevocably because with that initial pleasure came the knowledge that there were more delicious things in the world than the boiled chicken my mother had all my life set before me.
I carried the burden of disloyalty with a dismay and pain that were, of course, foolishly disproportionate. But I kept right on eating ham sandwiches, and soon the pain of my disloyalty vanished. Especially when I discovered bacon and eggs.
Nonetheless, any discussion of food in my presence would jog the old tremors. By assuring me that I would find the food in Shane’s jolly good, Sebastian Roon had hit me where I still, on occasion, lived. I forgot the address, so to speak, as soon as we entered the restaurant.
The only restaurants in which I had previously set foot were, as I have indicated, the Automat and Stewart’s cafeteria. They were dissimilar, of course, but the dissimilarity was mechanical: the way the food was dispensed. In the Automat it came popping out of little holes in the wall. In Stewart’s you picked it up from steam tables and long glass shelves arranged like showcases. The atmosphere in both restaurants, however, was the same.
Hurrying people. Bright lighting. A ceaseless assault of confusing noise: voices calling; the whir of revolving doors; dishes and silver being dropped into metal carts; knives and forks clattering onto trays; serving spoons being banged free of excess gravy against the aluminum pots on the steam tables; shouts from the kitchen across the ledges of the windows through which batches of freshly cooked food were passed to the servers; an occasional plate or coffee cup shattering to fragments on the marble floors.
I had always found the noise attractive. I had come to expect it as a natural accompaniment to the pleasant activity of consuming food in public. I did not think it through, but I see now how my thoughts must have been going.
If you got this much action when you stepped into comparatively modest-priced restaurants like the Automat for a ham sandwich or Stewart’s for a plate of pot roast, the least you could expect when you entered a joint that hung gutted deer and clusters of grouse on the part of the front door where my father nailed our mezuzah, was the Edwin Franko Goldman band playing a Sousa march while Al Jolson bellowed “Mammy.”
You could expect it, yes. But what you would get is what I got: a feeling that I had stepped into t
he place of worship dedicated to an obscure but well-to-do sect. The priests wore black mess jackets with red vests fastened by silver buttons. They moved about on their toes as, in hushed silence, they carried food and drink to votaries seated at tables covered with red and white checked tablecloths.
We were approached by a tall white-haired old man with a face he had obviously stolen from El Greco’s portrait of St. Jerome. He bowed to Sebastian Roon. I couldn’t believe I had actually seen it. But I had. The old man bowed!
“Mr. Roon,” he said.
“Hello, George,” Sebastian Roon said. “This is a friend of mine, Mr. Kramer.”
The old man bowed again. “Delighted to meet you, Mr. Kramer.”
Then I realized the old man had bowed to me.
“We’re famished,” Sebastian Roon said. “Can you feed us?”
“With pleasure,” George said. “This way, please.”
It was only because he turned so promptly that he did not notice I had bowed back to him. But Sebastian Roon had noticed, and he grinned.
“Not necessary, old boy,” he said, taking my arm. “He gets tipped quite liberally.”
George stopped at a small round table to the left of the door and waited for us to catch up. He helped Sebastian Roon into his chair. By the time George turned to help me, I was already seated. I wondered if I should have waited for him. Nobody had ever helped me into a chair. Not since I was a little boy, anyway, when I could not get up to the seat on my own. I decided not to do anything on my own. I would watch Sebastian Roon and do whatever he did. The next thing he did was sneeze.
“Gesundheit,” said George.
“Thank you,” said Roon. He gave me a funny look, as though he wanted to say something but was not sure I would understand. Finally, he turned to George and said, “I think we might risk a couple of cups of coffee to start.”
“Very good,” said George.
He bowed and went away. I have never been in this sort of restaurant, so I assumed things were done not quite the way they were done in the Automat and in Stewart’s. Starting a meal with a cup of coffee seemed peculiar, but so did having El Greco’s St. Jerome bow to a kid from Thomas Jefferson High School who fetched hot pastrami sandwiches from Lou G. Siegel’s for Ira Bern.
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