Flying Off Everest

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Flying Off Everest Page 20

by Dave Costello


  Farakka Barrage, 164–67

  Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI), 106

  First World War, 66–67

  Free Flight International Film Festival, 115–17, 129, 183, 184

  funding, 56, 77, 81, 124, 167, 180. See also sponsors

  Gaillard, Charley, 33–37, 39–41, 53, 130, 145

  Ganesh Kayak Shop, 33, 35, 37, 41, 53, 130–31

  Ganga, Mother (Hindu goddess), 158–60

  Ganges River

  Farakka Barrage, 164–67

  Hindu myth about, 158–60

  human bodies floating down, 161

  kayaking, 161–64, 166–68, 169–70

  maps, lack of, 154, 157

  pollution of, 160–61

  Gasherbrum II, 47, 50

  geology of Indian subcontinent, 61–62

  Gevaux, Pierre, 47

  Giorgio, Paul, 29–30

  glacial lake outburst flood (GLOF), 135–36

  Glaisher, James, 103–4

  glider, 54–55, 80–81, 87

  Gondwana, 61

  GPS tracker, 59, 81, 101–2, 121, 144, 158

  Grylls, Edward “Bear,” 105–6

  Gurumg, Devika, 128

  Halsei Mahadev, 124–25

  Hanuman Airlines (documentary), 115–17, 127–30, 182–83, 184–85

  harnesses, 82–83

  High Altitude Dreams (HAD), 29–30, 55

  Hillary, Edmund, 72–74, 84, 96

  Himalaya, 56, 62, 89. See also Everest, Mount

  Himalayan River Girls, 146

  Himalayan Trailblazer, 76, 77, 78, 114, 180

  Himalayan Trust, 22

  Himalayan Whitewater Challenge, 39, 53, 146–47

  Hindu mythology, 158–60

  Hitch, Rick, 87

  Honnold, Alex, 176

  Icarus Cup (Coupe Icare), 115–17, 129, 183, 184

  Imja Tse, 79–80

  India

  bike ride to, 151–52, 153

  kayaking in, 153–54, 155–58, 161–64, 166–68, 169–70

  Indian subcontinent geology, 61–62

  International Mountain Guides (IMG), 82, 86, 87, 108

  Irvine, Andrew “Sandy,” 70, 71

  Island Peak, 79–80

  Isserman, Maurice, 89

  Jaws (eddy), 136, 138–39, 140–41

  Jungle Corridor, 148–49

  K2, 46

  Kathmandu, Nepal, 10–13, 27, 117

  kayaking

  equipment for, 43–44, 117–18

  in India, 153–54, 155–58, 161–64, 166–68, 169–70

  in Nepal, 140–44, 147–49

  preparation for, 131–33, 136–37

  Knowles, Peter, 135

  Koirala, B. P., 64

  Kumal, Tarka, 135–36

  Lukla, walk to, 114–15

  lunar eclipse, full, 163

  Macartney-Snape, Tim, 168

  Magar, Kelly, 53–54, 130, 155

  Magar, Nim, 53–54, 124, 130, 137–38, 142, 155

  Mallory, George, 69, 70–71

  mani stones, 78

  Mauna Kea, 67

  Maya, Ang, 124

  McIntyre, David, 104–5

  McKinley, Mount, 68

  McKinney, Steve, 49–50

  McLean, Leonardo, xiii

  media coverage, 179–82, 183–84

  Mercer, Mount, 47

  Miura, Yuichiro, 90

  Moffatt, Gerry, 39, 40

  Morris, James, 73

  Mountain Blackstone, 77

  Mountain Institute, 64

  Mountain Professionals, 76

  mountains, tallest, 51, 62, 67–68

  movie, 115–17, 127–30, 182–83, 184–85

  mythology, Hindu, 158–60

  Namgyal Monastery Audio Visual Archive Center, 128

  Nanga Parbat, 62

  Nasonova, Elvira, 51–52

  National Geographic Adventure, 181–82

  National Geographic

  Adventurer of the Year

  Award, 173–78, 185–86

  Nepal

  child brides, 145

  economics, 10

  import tax, 54, 118

  kayaking in, 140–44, 147–49

  politics and government, 9, 10

  Nepali Times, 147, 186

  Nima, Tsering, 77, 114

  Niviuk, 54–55, 80–81, 87, 173

  Noel, John, 66, 71

  Norgay, Tenzing, 72–74, 84, 96

  North Pole, 65

  Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 47–48

  Odell, Noel, 71

  oxygen, lack of, 102–4

  Paddle Nepal, 53, 54, 117–18, 130, 147, 155

  paddles, loss and recovery of, 149, 152–53

  Pahari, Madhukar, 118, 130, 132, 140, 142–43, 155

  paragliding

  conversation about, 21–22

  descent via, xi–xiv, 101–3, 106–8, 110

  equipment, 47, 54–55, 80–81, 87

  history of, 46–52

  ideas about, 17–18, 30, 42

  preparation for, 92, 98–99, 119–20

  second/third legs of, 120–21, 123–25

  parapente, 47–48

  Pasong, Tsering, 76

  Peak UK Himalayan Whitewater Challenge, 39, 53, 146–47

  Peary, Robert E., 65

  Pevec, Hamilton, 127–30, 182–83, 184–85

  Phinney, Kimberly. See also website for expedition

  expedition, end of, 170

  expedition, support for, 57–59, 157, 158, 167, 179

  Hanuman Airlines (documentary), 184–85

  National Geographic

  Adventurer of the Year

  Award, 174–78

  publicity efforts, 112, 180, 181–82, 183–84

  Pokhara, Nepal

  Blue Sky Paragliding, 20–22

  described, 18–20

  journey to, 13–15, 31–32

  Potts, Mary Anne, 182

  Prachanda, 9

  Rai, Bhakta Kumar, 97, 179

  Rai, Manish, 135–36

  Rai, Susmita, 34–35, 38, 145–47, 179, 186

  Raineri, Rodrigo, 45, 52, 76, 86, 91

  Rampur-6, Nepal, 4–5

  Rhino Rock, 147–48

  Roche, Claire Bernier, xiii, 50–51, 97, 105, 106

  Roche, Zebulon, xiii, 50–51, 97, 105, 106

  Royal Geographical Society, 66, 68

  Sarangkot, Nepal, 17–18

  Schafer, Grayson, 56

  scholarship fund, proposed, 60

  Seven Summits, 51

  Sherpa (ethnicity), 24–25

  sherpa (job description), 24, 25–27, 56

  Sherpa, Ang Gyalgen, 112, 113

  Sherpa, Kili (Lakpa’s cousin), 24, 28, 29, 55, 56

  Sherpa, Lakpa Tsheri

  altitude sickness, 28

  appearance, 20

  arrest and attempted arrest, 112–13, 114–15

  award, 173–75, 176–78, 185–86

  bike ride to India, 151–52, 153

  Camp I, 84–86

  Camp II, 86, 93

  Camp III, 86–87, 94

  Camp IV, 93–95

  childhood, 22–24, 28

  education, 23, 27, 28

  Everest Base Camp, 75–76, 81–84

  Everest Base Camp, walk to, 78–80

  Everest summit, climb to, 95–97

  expedition, end of, 169–71, 178–79

  expedition, life after, 186–87

  expedition, plans for, 44–45, 46

  expedition, reflections on, 187

  family, 22, 27

  funding and sponsors, 55, 56, 81, 124, 180

  home, 23

  illness, 156, 157

  kayaking, in India, 153–54, 155–58, 161–64, 166–68, 169–70

  kayaking, in Nepal, 140–44, 147–49

  kayaking, preparation for, 131–33, 136–37

  language skills, 155–56, 157, 177

  Lukla, walk to, 114–15

  mountain climbing, early, 28–30r />
  moviemaking, 116–17, 183

  paragliding, conversation about, 21–22

  paragliding, descent via, xi–xiv, 101–3, 106–8, 110

  paragliding, ideas about, 17–18, 30

  paragliding, preparation for, 98–99

  paragliding, second/third legs of, 120, 123–25

  robbery and water chase of, 162–64

  rock climbing, 24

  Sherpa, Phu Dorji (Ang Bhai). See Ang Bhai

  Sherpa, Yanjee (Lakpa’s wife), 56, 101, 112, 179

  Shresthra, Shri Hari

  bike ride to India, 151–52, 153

  as cameraman, 81, 87–88

  expedition, end of, 153

  kayaking, 118, 130, 140–41, 143, 148

  moviemaking, 183

  paragliding, 119–20

  Sikhdar, Radhanath, 63

  Skoog, Lowell, 47–48

  Solu-Khumbu area, Nepal, 21, 25

  South Pole, 65

  sponsors, 43–44, 53–55, 57, 58–59, 184

  SPOT Messenger (GPS tracker), 59, 81, 101–2, 121, 144, 158

  Sun Kosi River

  about, 133–35, 154–55

  Dead Man’s Eddy, 136, 137–38, 141–44

  Jaws (eddy), 136, 138–39, 140–41

  Jungle Corridor, 148–49

  Rhino Rock, 147–48

  Sunuwar, Babu

  altitude sickness, 41–42, 53–54, 80, 85, 87, 94–95

  appearance, 21

  arrest and attempted arrest, 112–13, 114–15

  award, 173–75, 176–78, 185–86

  bike ride to India, 151–52, 153

  Camp I, 84–86

  Camp II, 86, 93

  Camp III, 86–87, 94

  Camp IV, 93–95

  childhood, 6–8

  education, 6–7

  English skills, 57–58, 117, 177

  Everest Base Camp, 75–76, 81–84

  Everest Base Camp, walk to, 78–80

  Everest summit, climb to, 95–97

  expedition, end of, 169–71, 178–79

  expedition, life after, 186–87

  expedition, plans for, 44–45, 46

  family, 4, 5–6

  funding, 43–44, 53–55, 57, 58–59, 77, 81

  home, 5

  illness in India, 156, 157–58

  Kathmandu, life in, 10–13

  Kathmandu, running away from home to, 3–4, 7–9

  kayaking, in India, 153–54, 155–58, 161–64, 166–68, 169–70

  kayaking, in Nepal, 140–44, 147–49

  kayaking, interest in, 7–8, 32–33

  kayaking, learning about, 34, 35–40

  kayaking, preparation for, 131–33, 136–37

  Lukla, walk to, 114–15

  moviemaking, 116–17

  paragliding, career switch to, 40–41

  paragliding, conversation about, 21–22

  paragliding, descent via, xi–xiv, 101–3, 106–8, 110

  paragliding, idea about, 42

  paragliding, preparation for, 92, 98–99, 119–20

  paragliding, second/third legs of, 120–21, 123–25

  Pokhara, journey to, 13–15, 31–32

  robbery and water chase of, 162–64

  as trekking porter, 33

  Sunuwar, Himalaya (Babu’s son), 101, 123, 187

  Sunuwar, Krishna (Babu’s brother)

  expedition, end of, 178–79

  illness, 157–58

  India border meeting, 152–53

  kayaking, 141–43, 153–58, 161–64, 166–70

  as river support crew member, 118, 130–31, 140, 144, 148

  robbery and water chase of, 162–64

  Sunuwar, Mingma Tashi (Babu’s son), 56, 101, 179

  Sunuwar, Niraj (Babu’s son), 101, 145, 146, 147, 179

  Sup’Air, 173

  Tan, Richard, 80

  Tethys Sea, 61

  Thamel, Kathmandu, 11–13

  Thapa, Mahendra Singh, 118

  Thapa, Resham Bahadur, 118, 130, 132, 140–41, 143, 155

  Tibetan Buddhism, 64

  Traverso, Jim, 138–39

  Treadway, Alex, 174, 177, 178, 186

  Trollsas, Inka, 146

  Tudor, Larry, 49–50

  Turk, Jon, 175–76

  Twight, Mark, 48

  vol bivouac, 50

  Waters, Ryan, 75–76, 81–83, 85, 93, 108, 113–15

  Waugh, Andrew, 63–64

  weather window for climbing, 45, 83–84, 92–93

  Weaver, Stewart, 89

  website for expedition

  expedition posts, 108–10, 121, 144–45, 158, 167, 171, 178

  post-expedition post, 180

  pre-expedition post, 59–60

  White Water Nepal (Knowles), 135

  Wilson, Maurice, 71–72

  wing, 54–55, 80–81, 87

  World War I, 66–67

  Younghusband, Francis, 66

  Sano Babu Sunuwar tests out the new ultralight wing, smuggled into the country from Malaysia, at Kala Patthar near Everest Base Camp.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Nima Wang Chu (right) learns how to prepare the wing for takeoff from Sano Babu Sunuwar.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Ryan Waters (left) does the math with Sano Babu Sunuwar to see if they’ll actually clear the Northwest Ridge if he and Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa take off from the summit.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Waters’s base camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa (left) and Sano Babu Sunuwar pose with the Nepali flag at Everest Base Camp.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Sano Babu Sunuwar, Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa, and Nima Wang Chu prepare the wing for takeoff on the Northeast Summit Ridge.

  PHU DORJI SHERPA

  Climbers cross a crevasse in the Western Cwm using aluminum ladders.

  PHU DORJI SHERPA

  Nima Wang Chu, one of the expedition’s two sherpas.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Phu Dorji, one of the expedition’s two sherpas.

  PHU DORJI SHERPA

  Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa calls David Arrufat on his cellular phone from Everest Base Camp to check on the location of the team’s paraglider.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  David Arrufat puts the APPI logo on Babu and Lakpa’s paraglider in Pokhara.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Shri Hari Shresthra (left), the team’s cameraman, and Balkrishna Basel enter Sagarmatha National Park on their way to deliver the paraglider to Everest Base Camp.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Balkrishna Basel holds the bag he smuggled the paraglider into Base Camp with, along with his clothes.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  Nima Wang Chu (left) watches as the team’s cameraman, Shri Hari Shresthra (center), films Babu’s inaugural flight with the new wing at Kala Patthar.

  BALKRISHNA BASEL

  The Sirkot headquarters of Babu and Lakpa’s new paragliding company, Flying Himalayan.

  DAVE COSTELLO

  Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa on his Royal Enfield motorcycle in Pokhara.

  DAVE COSTELLO

  From left to right: Shri Hari Shresthra, Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa, Shailendra Kumar Upadhyay, and Sano Babu Sunuwar.

  PHU DORJI SHERPA

  * Under the current Nepali system of government, individual villages are known as “wards.” They typically are numbered one through nine and grouped together with other nearby communities into slightly larger Village Development Committees (VDCs). So Babu’s family lives in Ward 6 of the Rampur VDC.

  * There is now a single-lane dirt road running along the length of most of the Sun Kosi, as well as a small suspension footbridge connecting the trail to Rampur-6 to the new road.

  * In kayaking or rafting, whitewater rapids are typically divided into six classes, each denoted with a Roman numeral. Class I is moving flat water with a few small waves; it is straightforward to navigate in a boat. Class II is relatively small rapids; waves
up to three feet; and wide, clear channels that are still somewhat easy to navigate. Class III is rapids with high, irregular waves and narrow routes through hazards. It often requires complex maneuvering to navigate in a boat. Class IV is difficult rapids with restricted passages, requiring precise maneuvering in turbulent water. Conditions often make rescue difficult. Class V is extremely difficult, long, and violent rapids. Rescue conditions are exceedingly difficult, and there is a significant hazard to life in the event of a mishap. Class VI is typically considered unrunnable.

  * According to Nepal’s 2001 National Census. That number has since jumped to 65.9 percent, according to the 2011 National Census.

  * The offices of Blue Sky Paragliding moved in April 2013 to another location in the Lakeside area, farther south. The large picture of Hanuman is gone, but the yeti still stands watch near the entrance.

  * The term Sherpa is actually the anglicized mispronunciation of the ethnic designation “Shar-wa” (literally “person from the east”). Sharwa among themselves have approximately twenty surnames, or clans (historically originating in the Tibetan province of Kham), one of which is, confusingly enough, Sharwa.

  † Lhakpa can also be spelled without the h when used as a given name, which is how Lakpa Tsheri Sherpa chooses to spell his name, and thus is how he is referred to here.

  ‡ “Tsheri” is the Tibetan spelling. It would be “Chirring” in Nepali.

  § The Himalayan Trust is a nonprofit organization that was started by Sir Edmund Hillary. It continues to be involved in helping Sherpas better their communities through projects they themselves support but request assistance for.

  * Dialects between Sherpa communities vary as much as 30 percent—not enough to officially count as separate languages, but enough to be thoroughly confusing.

  † Potatoes, although currently the main cash crop in the Sherpa economy, are a fairly recent phenomenon in Nepal—introduced first in the nineteenth century by British travelers. Traditionally, Sherpa agriculture relied on maize, barley, buckwheat, and vegetables.

  * Two years earlier, Giorgio had stood on top of Everest and placed a Red Sox cap on the summit, along with an American flag for the same purpose, at a lama’s suggestion. He reportedly also burned a Yankees cap with kerosene when he returned to Base Camp. The Red Sox didn’t win the World Series that year, but Giorgio’s 2003 gesture must have done the trick: Boston claimed the World Series title in 2004, breaking its eighty-six year drought.

 

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