Journey Through Tudor England

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Journey Through Tudor England Page 24

by Suzannah Lipscomb


  I have also relied on the scholarship of numerous Tudor historians, too many to name (although I have recommended a good number in the list of further reading). I would also like to acknowledge my debt to the authors of the guidebooks of each historic house (even if one or two proved occasionally erroneous!). I am used to recording such debts through footnotes, and crave indulgence from scholars for their absence: this book is intended as an introduction to non-specialists. Those familiar with the field will spot my influences. Any errors are mine alone.

  On my travels, I enjoyed the hospitality of some marvellous people. My thanks go to Polly and Steve Bennett, Julie and Malcolm Dunn, Rufus and Cherry Fairweather, Stephen and Alice Lawhead, and Richard and Chrissy Sturt for comforting a weary traveller with good food, good wine and good company.

  I am grateful, too, for the support of my colleagues at the University of East Anglia and, latterly, at New College of the Humanities, for their input, wisdom and forbearance. Thank you, too, to my virtual history community on Twitter for thoughts and contributions along the way.

  I would also like to thank my editors at Ebury, Liz Marvin and Andrew Goodfellow, and my literary agent, Andrew Lownie, for all their work on this book. Thank you to my illustrator, Angela Beal, whose beautiful drawings enhance the text greatly. I am also immensely grateful to Tony Morris for putting me in touch with Random House in the first place.

  Finally and above all, my very great thanks go to my parents and to my husband, Drake, for their continuing and wonderful support. Both Drake and my mother read and commented on every chapter, and both were also taken around a good many Tudor houses! Drake encouraged me to write this book from the very start and gave up a week’s holiday, and more than a few weekends, to accompany me on an intense schedule of Tudor sightseeing. Thank you to you all.

  Suzannah Lipscomb

  Surrey, October 2011

  SDG

  Architecture: general guides

  Mark Girouard, Life in the English Country House (1978)

  Mark Girouard, Elizabethan Architecture: Its Rise and Fall, 1540—1640 (2009)

  Maurice Howard, Early Tudor Country House: Architecture and Politics, 1490—1550 (1987)

  Harry Mount, A Lust for Window Sills: A Lover’s Guide to British Buildings from Portcullis to Pebble-Dash (2008)

  Nikolaus Pevsner, Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England

  Simon Thurley, The Royal Palaces of Tudor England: Architecture and Court Life 1460—1547 (1993)

  Portraiture

  Xanthe Brooke and David Crombie, Henry VIII Revealed: Holbein’s Portrait and Its Legacy (2003)

  Antonia Fraser and Tarnya Cooper, A Guide to Tudor and Jacobean Portraits (2008)

  Brett Dolman, ‘Wishful Thinking: Reading the Portraits of Henry VIII’s Queens’, in Henry VIII and the Court: Art, Politics and Performance ed. Thomas Betteridge and Suzannah Lipscomb (2012)

  Bendor Grosvenor (ed.), Lost Faces: Identity and Discovery in Tudor Royal Portraiture (2007)

  Tatiana C. String, ‘Projecting Masculinity: Henry VIII’s Codpiece’ in Henry VIII and his Afterlives: Literature, Politics and Art ed. Mark Rankin, Christopher Highly and John N. King (2010)

  Henry VII

  S. B. Chrimes, Henry VII (1999)

  Sean Cunningham, Henry VII (2007)

  Michael K. Jones, Bosworth 1485: The Psychology of a Battle (2003)

  Henry VIII

  Lacey Baldwin Smith, Henry VIII: The Mask of Royalty (1971)

  Robert Hutchinson, The Last Days of Henry VIII: Conspiracy, Treason and Heresy at the Court of the Dying Tyrant (2006)

  Suzannah Lipscomb, 1536: The Year that Changed Henry VIII (2009)

  J. J. Scarisbrick, Henry VIII (1997)

  David Starkey, Henry: Virtuous Prince (2009)

  Alison Weir, Henry VIII: King and Court (2008)

  Lucy Wooding, Henry VIII (2008)

  Henry VIII’s wives

  David Starkey, Six Wives: The Queens of Henry VIII (2004)

  Giles Tremlett, Katherine of Aragon: Henry’s Spanish Queen (2011)

  Eric Ives, The Life and Death of Anne Boleyn: The Most Happy (2005)

  Lacey Baldwin Smith, A Tudor Tragedy: The Life and Times of Katherine Howard (1962)

  Susan E. James, Kateryn Parr: The Making of a Queen (1999) Also republished as Katherine Parr: Henry VIII’s Last Love (2009)

  Linda Porter, Katherine the Queen: The Remarkable Life of Katherine Parr (2011)

  Henry VIII’s courtiers

  Peter Ackroyd, The Life of Thomas More (1999)

  Jessie Childs, Henry VIII’s Last Victim: The Life and Times of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey (2006)

  Barbara J. Harris, Edward Stafford, third Duke of Buckingham, 1478—1521 (1986)

  David M. Head, The Ebbs and Flows of Fortune: The Life of Thomas Howard, Third Duke of Norfolk (1995)

  Robert Hutchinson, House of Treason: The Rise and Fall of a Tudor Dynasty (2009)

  Diarmaid MacCulloch, Thomas Cranmer: A Life (1997)

  Nicola Shulman, Graven with Diamonds: The Many Lives of Thomas Wyatt: Courtier, Poet, Assassin, Spy (2011)

  Derek Wilson, In the Lion’s Court: Power, Ambition and Sudden Death in the Reign of Henry VIII (2002)

  Edward VI

  Chris Skidmore, Edward VI: The Lost King of England (2008)

  Lady Jane Grey

  Eric Ives, Lady Jane Grey: A Tudor Mystery (2009)

  Mary I

  Susan Doran and Thomas S. Freeman (ed.), Mary Tudor: Old and New Perspectives (2011)

  Linda Porter, Mary Tudor: The First Queen (2009)

  Anna Whitelock, Mary Tudor: England’s First Queen (2010)

  Elizabeth I

  Sarah Gristwood, Elizabeth and Leicester (2008)

  Anne Somerset, Elizabeth I (2002)

  David Starkey, Elizabeth (2001)

  Alison Weir, Elizabeth the Queen (2009)

  Elizabeth I’s courtiers

  Stephen Alford, Burghley: William Cecil at the Court of Elizabeth I (2011)

  Tracy Borman, Elizabeth’s Women: The Hidden Story of the Virgin Queen (2010)

  Malcolm Deacon, The Courtier and the Queen: Sir Christopher Hatton and Elizabeth I (2008)

  Mary S. Lovell, Bess of Hardwick: First Lady of Chatsworth (2006)

  Alan Stewart, Philip Sidney: A Double Life (2000)

  John Sugden, Sir Francis Drake (2006)

  Penry Williams and Mark Nicholls, Sir Walter Raleigh: In Life and Legend (2011)

  Raleigh Trevelyan, Sir Walter Raleigh (2002)

  Benjamin Woolley, The Queen’s Conjuror: The Life and Magic of Dr Dee (2002)

  Mary, Queen of Scots

  Antonia Fraser, Mary, Queen of Scots (1969)

  John Guy, My Heart is My Own: The Life of Mary Queen of Scots (2004)

  War and foreign policy

  David Childs, The Warship Mary Rose: The Life and Times of King Henry VIII’s Flagship (2007)

  Peter Harrington and Brian Delf, The Castles of Henry VIII (2007)

  Joycelyne G. Russell, The Field of the Cloth of Gold: Men and Manners in 1520 (1969)

  Reformation and religious changes

  G. W. Bernard, The King’s Reformation: Henry VIII and the Remaking of the English Church (2005)

  Eamon Duffy, The Stripping of the Altars: Traditional Religion in England, 1400—1580 (2005)

  Eamon Duffy, Fires of Faith: Catholic England under Mary Tudor (2010)

  Alan Dures, English Catholicism 1558—1642 (1983)

  Christopher Haigh, English Reformations: Religion, Politics and Society under the Tudors (1991)

  Alice Hogge, God’s Secret Agents: Queen Elizabeth’s Forbidden Priests and the Hatching of the Gunpowder Plot (2005)

  Peter Marshall, Reformation England 1480—1642 (2003)

  Peter Marshall, Religious Identities in Henry VIII’s England (2006)

  Rebellions

  Michael Bush, The Pilgrimage of Grace: A Study of the Rebel Armies of October 1536 (1996)
/>   Anthony Fletcher and Diarmaid MacCulloch, Tudor Rebellions, fifth edn (2004)

  R.W. Hoyle, The Pilgrimage of Grace and the Politics of the 1530s (2003)

  Andy Wood, The 1549 Rebellions and the Making of Modern England (2007)

  Shakespeare

  James Shapiro, 1599: A year in the Life of William Shakespeare (2006)

  Michael Wood, In Search of Shakespeare (2005)

  LONDON AND GREATER LONDON

  The Tower of London

  Historic Royal Palaces, London EC3N 4AB

  Tel: 0844 482 7777

  www.hrp.org.uk

  Opening Times: Mar—Oct Tues—Sat, 9am—5.30pm; Sun—Mon 10am—5.30pm; Nov—Feb Tues—Sat, 9am—4.30pm; Sun—Mon 10am—4.30pm

  Nearest tube: Tower Hill

  Nearest train: Fenchurch Street or London Bridge

  There is no parking at the Tower of London

  New Armouries Restaurant; cafés

  The Tower shop; The Jewel House Shop; The White House Shop; The Medieval Palace Shop; The Beefeater Shop

  For accessibility information, please visit www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/planyourvisit/disabledaccess

  National Portrait Gallery

  Saint Martin’s Place, London WC2H OHE

  Tel: 020 7306 0055; Recorded info: 020 7312 2463

  www.npg.org.uk

  Opening times: Daily 10am-6pm; Thu—Fri until 9pm

  Nearest tube: Charing Cross, Leicester Square or Embankment

  Nearest train: Charing Cross

  There are no car parking facilities at the Gallery

  Portrait Café and Portrait Restaurant

  The National Portrait Gallery Shop

  For accessibility information, please visit www.npg.org.uk/visit/access/in-the-gallery.php

  Westminster Abbey

  The Church of England

  20 Dean’s Yard, London SW1P 3PA

  Tel: 020 7222 5152

  www.westminster-abbey.org

  Usually open to visitors from Mon to Sat throughout the year, Sundays are reserved for worship

  Nearest tube: St James’s Park or Westminster

  Nearest train: Victoria or Waterloo

  No public parking facilities are available at the Abbey

  There is no café at Westminster Abbey

  The Westminster Abbey Shop

  For a detailed disabled access guide please visit www.disabledgo.com

  The London Charterhouse

  Sutton’s Hospital, Charterhouse Square, London EC1M 6AN

  (The London Charterhouse is a private residence)

  Tel: 020 7253 9503

  www.thecharterhouse.org

  Tours of Charterhouse run on Wed afternoons at 2.15pm Apr—Aug. Tours and tickets must be pre-booked by letter with at least three dates and a cheque for £10 per person made payable to ‘Charterhouse’. Please include telephone number and SAE

  Nearest tube: Barbican or Farringdon

  Nearest train: Liverpool Street or Old Street

  Metered parking is available in Charterhouse Square

  There is no café at the London Charterhouse

  There is no shop, but an illustrated Guide (£7.50) is available from Clerk to the Brothers at the address above

  Limited disabled access — check website

  Lincoln’s Inn

  The Honourable Society of Lincoln’s Inn

  The Treasury Office, Lincoln’s Inn, London WC2A 3TL

  Tel: 020 7405 1393

  www.lincolnsinn.org.uk

  Lincoln’s Inn Fields is a public square in London and thus open to the public

  The Royal Courts of Justice are open to those over 14 years, unless a notice on the doors states ‘In Camera’ or ‘In Private’. Groups of more than 12 are asked to split up and visit different courts to cause least disturbance

  Nearest tube: Temple; Holborn; or Chancery Lane

  There is parking available in Lincolns Inn Fields

  There are numerous cafés and shops in the vicinity

  For information about accessibility, please visit www.lincolnsinn.org.uk/index.php/location/disabled-access

  Guildhall

  City Remembrancer’s Office

  Gresham Street, London EC2

  Tel: 020 7332 1313

  www.guildhall.cityoflondon.gov.uk

  Opening times: Mon—Sat 10am—4.30pm (all year); Sun 10am—4.30pm (first weekend in May to last weekend in Sept), subject to events taking place at Guildhall. Please check that the Great Hall is available up to six weeks prior to the visit date

  Nearest tube: Moorgate, Mansion House or St Paul’s

  Nearest train: Liverpool Street, Fenchurch Street, Cannon Street, Black-friars or City Thameslink

  Public car parking is available on London Wall, Barbican or Aldersgate

  There is no café at the Guildhall, but several nearby

  There is a bookshop in the Guildhall Library

  Suitable for people with disabilities

  Eltham Palace

  English Heritage

  Court Yard, Eltham, Greenwich SE9 5QE

  Tel: 0870 333 1181

  www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/eltham-palace-and-gardens

  Open daily Apr—Oct 10am—5pm; Nov—March 10am—4pm

  Nearest train: Eltham or Mottingham (both 1/2 mile)

  Parking is available at Eltham Palace

  Restaurant, tea room, picnic area

  Shop available

  Suitable for people with disabilities

  Richmond Palace, Surrey

  Only traces of Richmond Palace remain, notably the Gatehouse. The site is between Richmond Green and the River Thames. Information about Richmond Palace is available at the Museum of Richmond

  The Museum of Richmond, The Old Town Hall,

  Whittaker Avenue, Richmond-upon-Thames, Surrey TW9 1TP

  Museum Tel: 020 8332 1141

  www.museumofrichmond.com

  Museum opening times: Tue—Sat llam—5pm

  Nearest tube: Richmond

  Nearest train: Richmond

  Car parking at Friar’s Lane car park, 100 m

  There is no café at the Museum, but many in Richmond itself

  The Museum Shop

  Suitable for people with disabilities

  Hampton Court Palace, Surrey

  Historic Royal Palaces

  East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9AU

  Tel: 0844 482 7777

  www.hrp.org.uk/hamptoncourtpalace

  Opening Times: Summer 10am—6pm, latest entry to maze 5.15pm; winter 10am—4.30pm, latest entry to maze 3.45pm

  Nearest train: Hampton Court

  Car parking at Hampton Court Palace and on Hampton Court Green, or Hampton Court railway station

  The Tiltyard Café

  The Barrack Block Shop; The Henry Shop; The Garden Shop; The Tudor Kitchens Shop

  Suitable for people with disabilities, for information please visit www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace/planyourvisit/disabledaccess

  SOUTH EAST

  St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle, Berkshire

  The Royal Collection

  Windsor, Berkshire SL4 1NJ

  Tel: 020 7766 7304

  www.royalcollection.org.uk

  Opening times: Mar—Oct, 9.45am—5.15pm (last admission 4pm); Nov—Feb, 9.45am—4.15pm (last admission 3pm). Please see website for additional closures

  Nearest train: Windsor

  For parking information visit: www.windsor.gov.uk

  Refreshments from The Undercroft Café. A re-entry band can be obtained from the Middle Ward or Lower Ward shops if you wish to leave the Castle for refreshments in the town’s many cafés

  There are three shops, all selling merchandise exclusive to Windsor Castle Suitable for people with disabilities, for more information please see website

  The Mary Rose, Hampshire

  The Mary Rose Trust, Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Ltd

  College Road, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, Hampshire PO1 3LX


  Tel: (Office) 023 9275 0521, (Museum) 023 9281 2931

  www.maryrose.org

  Open daily from 10am throughout the year; Apr—Oct: Last entry 4.30pm, gates close 6pm; Nov—Mar: last entry 4pm, gates close 5.30pm

  Nearest train: Portsmouth Harbour

  Car parking at Historic Dockyard Car Park, 400 yards

  Costa Coffee; Quick Crepes; Boathouse No. 7; The Georgian; Action Stations Café

  Mary Rose shop; Nauticalia; National Museum RN shop; Antiques Storehouse

  Limited disabled access — all disabled visitors must be accompanied by a carer. For more information please visit www.maryrose.org/visit/access_poster.pdf

  Winchester Cathedral, Hampshire

  Dean and Chapter for the Church of England

  9 The Close, Winchester, Hampshire SO23 9LS

  Tel: 01962 857200

  winchester-cathedral.org.uk

  The Cathedral is open every day of the year, except for necessary closures

  Nearest train: Winchester

  There is no parking within the Cathedral Close or the immediate vicinity

  Refectory

  Cathedral shop

  Suitable for people with disabilities

  The Vyne, Hampshire

  The National Trust

  Vyne Road, Sherborne St John, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG24 9HL

 

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