Pico Alto, 433
Pig boards, 114, 164
Pike, Bob, 208, 210, 288
Pintail boards, 105
Pipeline, 284, 286, 287–88, 289–93, 294–95, 336, 427–28, 438
Pipeline Masters, 314, 315, 316, 425–26
Pittard, Peers, 331
Plastic machines, 246, 247, 249
Polynesia, 21–23, 24, 59
Pomar, Felipe, 18–19, 21–22, 243, 433
Poppler, Jericho, 343, 345
Potter, Martin, 397–98, 428, 429
Powell, Shane, 425
Pratte, Tom, 395, 396
Pratte’s Reef, 470, 472, 473
Preece, Henry, 143, 145
Preisendorfer, Rusty, 372
Presley, Elvis, 125
Professional surfing, 300, 312, 314, 316–18, 320–21, 323–24, 387, 391–92, 394, 477. See also individual surfers
Pro-Lite, 387
Propper, Gary, 215
Puberty Blues, 343
Purpus, Mike, 263, 321
Q
Queen’s, 125, 354
Quesada, Joaquin Miro, 288
Quesnel, Charlie, 239
Quigg, Joe, 104–5, 107–8, 109, 111, 112, 118, 123, 130, 167
Quiksilver, 274, 275, 382, 388, 389, 390–91, 409, 417, 419, 423, 463
R
Rarick, Randy, 317–18, 320, 335
Rasmussen, Ricky, 256, 332
Redondo Beach, 110, 158, 169, 170, 198, 358, 476
Reed, Kevin, 428
Reed, Plaudette, 174
Reef Brazil, 417
Reid, Sam, 55, 59–60, 109, 115
Renneker, Mark “Doc,” 442, 453
Rensin, David, 453
Retro movement, 463–65
Reynolds, Dane, 433
Ribas, Victor, 459
Richards, Mark, 321, 324, 327, 329–30, 337–38, 339, 340, 341, 342, 357, 362, 397
Richards, Stan, 191
Ride the Wild Surf, 189–90
Riding Giants, 454
Rielly, Derek, 450–51
Rincon, 105, 196, 242
Rindge, May Knight, 60
Rip Curl, 274–75, 316, 363, 452
Robert Mitchell Company, 72, 102
Robertson, Cliff, 168, 188
Rochlen, Dave, 105, 107, 108, 111
Rocket, 126–27
Rogin, Gilbert, 192, 194
Ron Jon Surfpark, 474–75, 476
Rose, Frank, 358
Rosemberg, Tito, 303
Roth, Ed “Big Daddy,” 162
Rothman, Makua, 13
Roxy, 419, 420–21, 422, 460, 463
Rudolf, Gavin, 331, 332
Russell, Rory, 293, 317, 318, 320
Ruth, Babe, 53
S
Sanders, Marcus, 473
Sandspit, 239
Sandwich boards, 101
San Francisco, 171, 214
San Onofre, 76, 78–79, 80–81, 87, 109, 187, 261
San Onofre Surfing Club, 80
Santa Cruz, 263, 434, 453
Santosha, 301–2
Sato, Hiroshi, 379
Save Our Surf (SOS), 395
Schmidt, Richard, 434
Scholes, Fenton, 77
Schurch, Harry, 149
The Search, 452
Search for Surf, 162
Seaside Point, 263
Service in the Sun, 137
Setterholm, Mary, 343
Severson, John
antisurfing legislation and, 194, 195, 196
as artist, 179, 197
as filmmaker, 138, 142, 196, 261, 263
as surfer, 141, 145
Surfer magazine and, 175, 176, 177–79, 222, 228, 251, 256–58
Sexism, 318, 342–43, 417–18
Sex Wax, 266
Shank, Bud, 196, 229
Shark Park, 445
Sharks, 361–62, 434
Shaw, Bill “Flea,” 215
Shipley, Jack, 293, 318
Shipstern Bluff, 445, 446–47
Shortboard revolution, 238–39, 241–43, 246–47, 249–53
Simmons, Bob
death of, 127, 162
surfboards of, 98, 100–102, 104, 165, 340
as surfer, 96–97, 98, 108, 109, 110, 127, 129, 143
Simmons, Edward, 98
Singer, Brian, 274
Sizemore, Ron, 185, 186
Skateboarding, 220, 267, 387
Slab riding, 443–45
Slater, Kelly
in Momentum, 448, 451
New School and, 425, 430
retirement of, 456
as surfer, 423, 424, 430, 475
in surfing contests, 425–27, 430, 457, 459–60
Sleigh, Josh, 430
SlipCheck, 218, 220, 268
Slippery When Wet, 229
Smirnoff Pro-Am, 338
Smith, Col, 275
Smith, Davey, 428
Smith, Gene “Tarzan,” 66, 72, 73, 84, 123–24
Smithers, Ernest, 69
Snowboarding, 387, 388
Soeda, Hiromisha, 326
Soloman, Donnie, 443
Soul surfing, 269, 271–72
South Africa, 229–31, 331–32, 335–36, 397–98
Spencer, Ted, 259, 271, 275
Stab, 450, 451
Stadler, Jim, 202
Stange, Mike, 149, 150, 151
Starr, Rusty, 256
Steamer Lane, 267, 434
Steele, Taylor, 448, 451
Step Into Liquid, 454
Stewart, Gerry, 216
Stewart, Mike, 269
Stingers, 340
Stoner, Ron, 222–23, 254
Stone Steps Invitational, 351
Strauch, Paul, 227, 249
Stubb, 464
Stubbies Surf Classic, 324
Sumpter, Rod, 246, 476
Sunn, Rell, 279, 343, 421
Sunset Beach
Duke Kahanamoku Invitational, 223–24
early history of, 28, 86, 88
surfers at, 128–29, 143, 221, 279–80, 282, 290
waves at, 28, 84, 85, 86, 143
Superbank, 470–71, 472
Surfboards. See also individual boardmakers
in ancient Hawaii, 24–26
in Australia, 209
balsa, 101, 165, 167–68
big-wave, 439
Bonzer, 356
construction methods for, 465, 467–68
in the early 20th century, 62
fin for, 64–65, 82
first commercially made, 71–72
fish, 464
girl boards, 104, 105, 107–8, 110
hollows vs. planks, 64, 70, 72, 75, 100
hot curl design, 82–83, 86–87, 100
logos on, 175
longboard revival, 350–51, 353–54
Malibu chips, 107, 108, 167
pig boards, 114, 164
pintail, 105
plastic machines, 246, 247, 249
polyurethane foam, 165–68, 469
postmodern, 468–69
retro movement, 464–65
Rocket, 126–27
sandwich, 101
shortboard revolution, 238–39, 241–43, 246–47, 249–53
signature, 187, 226
in the sixties, 224, 226
stingers, 340
Stubb, 464
terms for, 32
Thruster, 354, 356–58
for tow surfing, 439
tri-fins, 357–58
twin-fins, 101, 340, 341
Surf clubs, 75–76, 134, 179. See also individual clubs
Surfer magazine, 175, 176, 177–79, 220, 222–23, 228, 251, 256–58, 354, 379, 447, 449–50
Surfers
number of, 201–2, 253, 422
as rebels, 159, 161–62, 164, 427–28
stereotypes of, 190–92, 194
Surfers: The Movie, 382
Surfer’s Journal, 449–50
Surfer’s Path, 450
Surf Expo, 389
Surf Fever, 175, 177
Surf Guide, 178
Surf Industry Manufacturers Association (SIMA), 389
Surfing. See also individual people and locations
access rights and, 386–87
apartheid and, 335–36, 397–98
Beat Generation and, 130, 133
counterculture and, 238–39, 250, 253–54, 256–58
decline of, in Hawaii, 32, 34–37
Digital Age and, 445, 447–49
historical constancy of, 477
international dispersion of, 202, 204–5, 398
legislation against, 194–96, 216–17
mythology of, 24, 28, 86
origins of, 18–19, 21
politics and, 394–98, 450
pop culture and, 52, 110–11, 115, 117, 121–22, 130, 133, 190–91, 387–88, 454, 456
professional, 300, 312, 314, 316–18, 320–21, 323–24, 387, 391–92, 394, 477
as religion, 476–77
retro movement, 463–65
revival of, in early 20th century, 42–45, 52–53
sexism and, 227, 318
Southern California style of, 95, 97–98
style and, 369–70
terminology for, 32
travel, 300–303, 305–12
Western introduction to, 29, 31–32
Surfing Hollow Days, 283, 288
Surfing in Hawaii, 137
Surfing magazine, 220, 379, 449
Surfing World magazine, 379–80
Surfin’ Safari, 198
Surf leash, 267–68
Surf Life Saving Australia, 57, 58, 60, 69–70, 134, 135, 137, 207
Surfline, 376–79, 447, 448, 449
Surf lit, 452–54
Surf Net, 445
Surfoplanes, 68, 69
Surf Punks, 358
Surf resorts, 383, 385–87
Surfrider Foundation, 395–96, 450, 470
Surf Safari, 176–77, 196
Surf shops, 217
Surf skis, 69
Surf’s Up, 456
Surftech, 468, 469
Surf Travel Company, 383
Surf wax, 218, 220, 266
Surfwear, 173–75, 191, 267, 274–75, 327, 388–91, 417, 421–22
Sutherland, Jock, 239, 249, 254, 289, 290
Swami’s, 196
Swastika Surf-Board Company, 71–72, 82
Sweet, Dave, 166, 167, 168, 175
Sweet, Roger, 168
Swift Street, 434
Sydney, 210, 212
T
Tabeling, Mike, 215
Tahiti, 23, 443
Takaki, Russ, 124
Takayama, Donald, 228, 351
Tales from the Tube, 290
Tandem surfing, 181, 182
Tanna, Tommy, 57
Tavarua, 383, 384–85, 386–87
Teahupoo, 443–44, 461
Television, 189, 191, 419, 421, 454, 457
Temple, Shirley, 53, 71, 81
Thomopolous, George, 231
Thruster, 354, 356–58
Todos Santos, 433, 434, 441
Tompkins, Denny, 314
Tomson, Michael, 317, 320, 323, 327, 331, 341, 388
Tomson, Shaun
on aerials, 430
on apartheid, 336, 397
income of, 316, 317, 318
as surfer, 312, 329, 331, 333
in surfing contests, 318, 324, 327, 331, 337, 373
tuberiding and, 336–37
Torquay, 274–75
Torrence, Dean, 198
Townend, Peter, 278, 316, 318, 320–21, 330, 359, 368, 473
Tow surfing, 436–37, 438–39, 441–45
Tracks magazine, 272, 273, 363, 379, 449
Tracy, Terry “Tubesteak,” 111, 115, 116, 117–18, 120, 157
Trade shows, 389
Trade Winds, 216
Trafton, George, 321
Travel surfing, 300–303, 305–12
Treloar, David “Baddy,” 271
Trent, Murray “Buzzy,” 108, 125, 127, 128–29, 130, 131, 133, 140–42, 227, 438
Trestles, 186, 187, 431
Tri-fin boards, 357–58
Triple Crown of Surfing, 316
Troy, Peter, 204, 301, 400
T-shirts, 174–75
Tsuzuki, Thomas “Scoop,” 140–41
Tuberiding, 283–84, 286, 289–90, 336–37
Tudor, Joel, 463, 464–65
Twain, Mark, 36, 44
Twin-fins, 101, 340, 341
U
Uemera, China, 351
Ug boots, 274
Uluwatu, 304–5, 306, 307, 311
Umi-a-liloa, 28
United States Surfboard Championships, 178, 182–83, 184–85
United States Surfing Association (USSA), 182, 184, 194, 195, 394–95
V
Van Artsdalen, Butch, 162, 287–88, 289, 406
Van Den Huevel, Tony, 231
Van Dyke, Fred, 148, 149, 193, 194, 223, 286, 318, 396
Van Hamersveld, John, 223, 232
Van Straalan, Dick, 275
Velzy, Dale
as boardmaker, 72, 100, 111–12, 114, 164–65, 168, 217, 229, 243
nonconformity of, 115
as surfer, 110, 111, 123, 228
trunks of, 175
Ventura Overhead, 129
The Ventures, 196
Video, 382–83, 445, 451–52
Vietrel, Peter, 133
Violence, 320, 358, 376. See also Localism
Virginia Beach, 214
Virostko, Darryl “Flea,” 434, 435
W
Waikiki
beachboys, 52–53, 62, 82, 123
early history of, 43–45
surfers at, 55, 59, 61–62, 64–65, 81–82, 124, 125
tourism and, 123
waves at, 109, 283
Waikiki Surf Club, 124–25, 141
Waikiki Wedding, 73
Waimea Bay, 88–89, 148–49, 150, 151, 290, 338, 403, 405, 406, 407–11
Waimea 5000, 400–401
Walker, Tommy, 58
Warbrick, Doug, 274, 317
Warren, Earl, 98
Warren, Mark, 275
Warren, Nina “Honey Bear,” 98
Warren, Tyler, 464
Wavepools, 473, 475–76
Waves
forecasting, 377–79
formation of, 126
manufactured, 470, 472–73, 475–76
measuring, 13, 83, 441
tracking, 126
Wave skis, 69
Wave Warriors, 382
Waxmate, 218, 220
Weather Surfer (Morris), 378
Weaver, Greg, 267
Weber, Dewey, 111, 112–13, 114–15, 162, 175, 180, 226, 252, 350
Weber, Sharron, 279, 342–43
Web sites, 445, 447–49
Weisbecker, Alan, 256
Weissmuller, Johnny, 80
Welch, Randy “Goose,” 430
Wembley Swimming Pool, 473
West, Claude, 70, 134
West Coast Surfing Championships, 184, 185, 186
Wetsuits, 169, 170–73, 274, 326–27
Wetteland, Max, 231
Whitman, Bill and Dudley, 214
Whitmore, John, 230–31
Wickham, Alick, 57, 58
Willcox, Kirk, 396
Williams, Frank, 356
Williams, Freddie, 57
Williams, John “Nipper,” 135, 209
Williams, Les, 108, 110, 114, 131
Wilson, Brian, 78, 197, 198, 201
Wilson, Carl, 197, 198
Wilson, Dennis, 197, 198
Windansea, 102–3, 127, 162, 194, 195, 249, 263, 264–65, 351
Winkipop, 364
Winton, Glen, 365
Winton, Tim, 453–54
Witzig, John, 246, 247, 251, 273, 367
Witzig, Paul, 246, 251, 259, 362
Wolfpak, 427–28
Women’s International Surfing Association (WISA), 343
Women s
urfers, 67, 105, 107, 157, 226–27, 342–43, 345, 417–19, 421–22, 460–61, 463. See also individual surfers
Wood, Nicky, 365
Woods, Gordon, 136, 243, 244, 252
World Championships, 11, 18, 210, 211–13, 243, 245–46, 258–59
World Championship Tour (WCT), 401, 456
World Qualifying Series (WQS), 401, 456
World War I, 59
World War II, 59, 72, 80, 87–89, 122, 214
X
X Games, 417, 456
Y
Young, Nat
on big-wave riding, 405
in Evolution, 259
Midget Farrelly and, 244, 247
in Hawaii, 320
in Indonesia, 307
politics and, 365, 394
shortboard revolution and, 246–47, 249–52
soul surfing and, 269, 270–71, 272
as surfer, 244, 248
in surfing contests, 11, 211, 213, 243, 245, 274, 351
You Should Have Been Here an Hour Ago (Edwards and Ottum), 187–88
Z
Zahn, Tommy, 98, 105, 108, 123, 136
Zamba, Frieda, 418
Zanuck, Darrilyn, 105, 107
Text copyright © 2010 by Matt Warshaw.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher.
Page 488 constitutes a continuation of the copyright page.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Warshaw, Matt, 1960-
The history of surfing / Matt Warshaw.
p. cm.
1. Surfing—History. I. Title.
GV840.S8W3477 2010
797.3’2—dc22
2009050324
ISBN: 978-0-8118-5600-3
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