Pacific: Silicon Chips and Surfboards, Coral Reefs and Atom Bombs

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Pacific: Silicon Chips and Surfboards, Coral Reefs and Atom Bombs Page 49

by Simon Winchester


  Trinitron television, 93, 111, 114

  Tristan da Cunha, 138n

  Triton’s trumpet, 347–48

  Tropic of Cancer, 247, 365

  Tropic of Capricorn, 247

  Truman, Harry S., 31, 39–42, 46–47, 66–67

  Truro Shoal, 396

  Tsingtao beer, 9n

  Tsing Yi Island, 195, 200

  tsunamis, 62, 259, 379, 382

  Tuamotu Islands, 438

  tube worms (Riftia pachyptila), 324–25

  Tumbes, Peru, 249

  tuna, 366, 368

  Tung Chao Yung, 194–201

  Tung Chee Hwa “C. H.,” 198, 200–201

  Tupaia, Raiatean priest, 431–32

  Tuvalu (formerly Ellice Islands), 214, 272

  Twain, Mark, 132

  typhoons, 22, 237–46, 248, 254, 258–59, 261, 378. See also cyclones; hurricanes

  defined 236n

  Haiyan, 237–43, 240, 245, 254, 264

  Tip, 237, 246

  Yunya, 383

  Ukraine, 407, 410

  UNCLOS Exclusive Economic Zone, 394

  undersea resources, 28

  UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 79, 289, 346, 350

  Unification Church, 25

  United Flight 154, 1–4, 6–8, 11–12, 20–21

  United Nations, 201, 297

  Able test and, 59

  headquarters, 105

  Command Military Armistice Commission, 171, 175

  Commission of Inquiry report on North Korea, 181n

  deep-sea mining and, 333

  United States, 295

  China and, 118–19, 378, 386–425

  colonies and, 190

  El Niño and, 261

  Hawaii becomes colony of, 351–52

  Japan and, 88, 91, 115–16, 118

  Korea and, 155, 178, 183

  Marshall Islands and, 12–17, 45–46

  Micronesia and, 11–12

  military bases, 379–81, 390–91, 418–19

  missile tests and, 375

  nuclear tests and, 12–14, 17, 19, 32–33, 41, 46–64

  ocean protection and, 367

  Pueblo and, 152–76, 187

  surfing and, 134–37, 142

  Vietnam War and, 27, 206–11, 211

  U.S. Air Force, 67n, 164, 404

  U.S. Army, 12–17, 155, 207, 209–10

  U.S. Congress, 420

  U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), 380–82, 385

  U.S. Marines, 115–16, 178, 183, 240–41, 246n, 383, 392, 419–20

  U.S. Naval Intelligence, 407

  U.S. Navy, 306

  Australia and, 420–21

  China and, 378, 386–89, 402–3, 414–25

  deep-sea research and, 310, 311–12, 318

  Hawaii and, 375

  Japan and, 119

  nuclear tests and, 20, 46–64, 67n

  Pinatubo and, 381–86, 384, 389, 421

  Pueblo and, 156–60, 158, 176n

  Singapore and, 421

  Typhoon Haiyan and, 238, 240

  U.S. Navy World Ocean Floor Map, 316n-17n

  U.S. Pacific Command, 423

  U.S. Pacific Fleet, 160–61, 163, 238, 388, 414

  U.S. Seventh Fleet, 119, 381, 383, 388, 419

  U.S. Special Forces, 240–41

  Uraga Channel, 114

  Uruguay, 369

  Utzon, Jørn, 284

  Utzon, Lin, 284–89, 286, 291

  van Andel, Tjeerd, 320

  Vancouver, 84, 224

  Vandenberg birds, 15

  Vanua Levu Island, 368

  Vanuatu (formerly New Hebrides), 215, 272, 413, 425

  Vema (schooner survey ship), 310

  Venice Beach, 135–36, 140

  Veron, Charlie, 339–42, 345, 349–50

  Versailles Treaty (1919), 212n

  Victoria, Queen of England, 137

  Viet Cong, 210, 211

  Viet Minh, 204–6, 208

  Vietnam, 31–32, 35, 393, 422. See also Indochina; North Vietnam; South Vietnam

  Declaration of Independence, 204n

  division of, 206, 208–9

  South China Sea and, 394, 394, 395n, 397, 400

  U.S. withdrawal from, 27, 202

  WW II and British fight to retain for France, 203–6

  Vietnam War, 20, 25, 206–11, 211, 269, 299, 381, 395n. See also Indochina War

  Vladivostok, 25

  volcanoes, 21, 62, 313, 313, 315–16, 378–86

  Voyage of the Beagle (Darwin), 267

  wa’a (sailing canoe), 427–29, 428, 435–41, 444

  Waglan Island Lighthouse, 226

  Waikiki, 1, 129–30

  Walker, Sir Gilbert, 251–55, 252, 263

  Walker Circulation, 252, 254–55, 262–64

  Walkman, 93, 111

  Wallis, 215n

  “Waltzing Matilda” (song), 269

  Wang Wei, 402–4

  Washington Post, 420

  Washom, Byron, 373

  waterspouts, 236n

  Watson, James D., 102

  Waveriders (film), 132n

  waves

  breaking, defined, 124n

  types of, 127–28

  weather, 28

  climate change and, 263–64

  ENSO, 254–63, 258

  Pacific as generator of, 246–47, 251–55

  Weihaiwei, 414

  Weissmuller, Johnny, 139

  Wendkos, Paul, 147

  Western Africa, 313

  Western Electric, 98, 103

  Westmoreland, William, 209

  Whitaker, Don, 75

  White Australia immigration policy, 293–98

  white-bellied sea eagle, 352–53

  White Fang (London), 130

  Whitlam, Gough, 268–71, 273–77, 275, 279, 295

  Whitsunday Islands, 348

  Wilson Cloud, 62

  wind power, 373–74

  Winnipeg, 85, 107

  Winogradsky, Sergei, 325

  Woelk, Stephen, 169–70

  Woman’s Home Companion, 133, 134

  Wonsan, North Korea, 161–62, 164

  Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 306–7, 307, 310, 317–18, 323–24, 327

  Woody Island, 396–98

  Woomera atomic tests, 37

  World Meteorological Organization, 245–46

  World’s Fair (Paris 1933), 86

  World Trade Center attacks, 388

  World War I, 9–10, 45, 139, 212n, 293–94

  World War II, 10–12, 45–46, 87, 153–55, 202–4, 213, 231, 294, 300, 333n

  Japanese surrender, 37, 153

  World Wildlife Fund, 336, 349, 366

  Wyatt, Ben, 50–51

  Yaizu fishing community, 77

  Yamamoto, Admiral, 57

  Yangtze River, 424

  Yap island, 11, 434, 439

  Yellow Sea, 412, 417

  Yokohama, 114–17, 259, 439

  Yokosuka, 114–15

  Naval Base, 119, 160, 386, 408, 419

  Yucatán, 343

  Zenith company, 113

  Zheng He, 397

  zooxanthellae, 345

  Zweig, Stefan, 23–24

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  Charting the complex fascinations to be found in the sixty-four million square miles of the Pacific Ocean was a task made immeasurably easier thanks to the help generously offered to me by Charles Morrison, president of the East-West Center in Honolulu. He gave me an office and administrative assistance during the six weeks I spent in Hawaii in the winter of 2014; and the use of these facilities—most notably the excellent library, which together with the Pacific Collection at the University of Hawaii, just up the road, makes for a truly incomparable resource—rooted me to my subject in a manner that would have been well-nigh impossible to fashion elsewhere. So my thanks must go first to Dr. Morrison, and to his staff and colleagues—June Kuramoto, Anna Tanaka, Phyllis Tabusa, Karen Knudsen, Elisa Johnston, Scott Kroeker, and Carol Fox in particular—who helped me lay the found
ations for the making of this book.

  I am also most grateful to the U.S. Navy for assistance offered in Hawaii and beyond. Commander Jason Garrett was the point man at Pacific Fleet headquarters at Pearl Harbor; and Lieutenant Colonel Eric Bloom at the all-forces Pacific Command headquarters at Camp Smith, nearby. Both officers bent over backward to offer help and access to various nooks and crannies of the byzantine world that is the U.S. armed forces in the region, and so far as I recall, not a single thing I asked for was denied.

  The commander of the Pacific Fleet during my time in Hawaii was Admiral Harry Harris, who was later promoted to take over the entire Pacific Command: his courtesy and help to me were warm and personal, and I am most thankful. One of his senior advisers, Commander Jon Duffy, now at the White House, was helpful both at the time in Hawaii and subsequently when posted to Washington; he took time to read the passages concerning the rise of modern China, and made many useful and constructive comments. Naturally any errors of fact or interpretation are mine alone, and neither his words of advice, nor those of any others mentioned here, should be thought of as suggesting an official endorsement.

  My visit to Kwajalein Atoll and to the U.S. Army’s missile range operations there was arranged by Michael Sakaio and Shannon Paulsen, both of whom were hospitable to a fault during my stay with them. If I write critically of the local treatment of the Marshall Islanders, Mr. Sakaio and Ms. Paulsen will both appreciate, I am sure, that it is the policies that I fault, and not the personnel, who in their cases were kindness personified.

  Scientists at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution on Cape Cod, Massachusetts, were especially obliging in sharing with me their research and knowledge of the ocean. I am grateful to Carl Peterson, a longtime trustee of the WHOI, for arranging visits and contacts; and to Susan Avery, the director. With Jayne Iafrate’s assistance I was able to spend valuable time with, among others, Daniel Fornari and Adam Soule, discussing hydrothermal vents; with Maurice Tivey, an expert on deep-sea mining; and with Ken Buesseler, a specialist on the sea-borne radiation effects of atomic testing and from nuclear-related accidents.

  JAMSTEC, the Japanese government’s principal meteorological research agency, could not have been more helpful; and for arranging visits to see some of its teams of remarkable weather scientists I must especially thank Ms. Mizue Ijima—who nearly missed the plane that would take her and her husband on a well-deserved holiday, to make sure I received timely information that I needed before my visit. The JAMSTEC scientists whose work I found especially relevant to this book were Kentaro Ando, Satomi Tomishima, and Takeshi Doi—the last an expert on the workings of Earth Simulator 2, the homegrown NEC supercomputer that endeavors to solve some of the more complex of the Pacific’s weather conundrums.

  Officials past and present at the Sony Corporation were unfailingly helpful when I was attempting to piece together the story of Masaru Ibuka and the company’s first transistor radios. Hiroko Onoyama worked for many years as chief assistant to Akio Morita in New York; and Hiroko Maeda is with Sony USA today: both made introductions for me and arranged visits to Sony offices, archives, and showrooms in Tokyo that were enormously useful. I also grateful to John Nathan, professor of Japanese cultural studies at the University of California, Santa Barbara, who has written what remains probably the best popular history of the corporation.

  The men and women of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, eager, enthusiastic, and brave, were tremendously welcoming and helpful whenever I chanced by their boatyard offices, as they prepared for their epic malama honua voyage of 2014. Marisa Hayase, who then acted as communications coordinator for the planned circumnavigation, was subsequently unfailing with her advice and timely assistance. May fair winds continue to attend all who are involved in the expedition.

  Among the many individuals to whom I owe much for their encouragement or assistance or both, I must thank the following: Kate Andrews, an Australian environmentalist friend of many years, who looked after me in Darwin and then read and helped tweak the relevant Australian chapters; Sasha and Marina Belousov, geologists in Kamchatka, who kindly took me to see the Zhupanovsky volcano while it was in full eruption; Simon Bowden and Dana Yee, for allowing me affordable use of their apartment in Honolulu; Mark Bradford, senior meteorologist on Kwajalein, and fund of information on tropical cyclones; Mark Brazil, who from his base on Hokkaido travels the world pursuing his environmental interests; David Christian, director of the Big History Institute at Macquarie University in Sydney; Gavan Daws, the writer, long based in Hawaii, who is a walking treasure-house of Pacific Island matters; John Dvorak, who runs a large university telescope on the summit of Mauna Kea, and is the author of a fine account of the San Andreas fault; the wise writer Gretel Ehrlich, who now lives in Hawaii with her husband and my old NPR friend Neal Conan; John Elias of Nautilus Minerals; Mary Hagedorn, an expert on hot-water corals; Kevin Hamilton, an atmospheric scientist and former director of the International Pacific Research Center at the University of Hawaii; Louise Hancock at the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford; Hiroshi Hasegawa, single-handed savior of the short-tailed albatross and a true hero of the avian world; Laurie Irvine of Soil Machine Dynamics in Newcastle upon Tyne; Elizabeth Kapu’uwailani Lindsey, an old friend, a true Hawaiian, and student of the original instructions of the world’s elders; Kurt Matsumoto of Pulama Lanai; the talented writer Jon Mooallem, who made many noble attempts to unravel today’s Lana’i story; my old friend and former Hong Kong government official Peter Moss; Jack Niedenthal, who from his base in Majuro acts as liaison for the displaced people of Bikini atoll; the geochronologist Professor Paula Reimer at Queen’s University, Belfast; Kylie Robertson, a great Australian friend and publicist currently based in New York; Tom Roelans, general manager of the Four Seasons resorts on Lana’i; Philip Smiley, one of the last British colonial officers in the Solomon Islands; Lori Teranishi, who is Larry Ellison’s spokesperson in Hawaii; Kazuyoshi Umemoto, formerly Japan’s ambassador to the UN, now in Rome; Charlie Veron, the world-revered champion of corals; Julianne Walsh, an expert on the Marshallese people at the Pacific Islands Studies Center at the University of Hawaii; and my son Rupert Winchester, of London and Phnom Penh, who kindly proofread the near-finished book and offered a wealth of corrections and invaluable suggestions.

  This was a challenging book, both to research and to write; but the task was made much less daunting by the clear-eyed and wise counsel of my friend and HarperCollins editor Henry Ferris, for whose lexico-surgical skills I have the greatest admiration. I continue to believe that a readable book is the result of intimate team-work between editor and writer; and if this book comes to be regarded as readable, then it will stand as testament to the hard work that Henry Ferris put into it to help make it so. Both he and I were greatly aided by Nick Amphlett, his stellar editorial assistant at Harper, who attended to the myriad nuts and bolts of this project with great good humor and forbearance. So to all in the HarperCollins team in New York, as well as to my splendid London editor, Martin Redfern, and his colleagues there, I raise a glass, or several, in salute.

  As I do also to my agents at William Morris: in New York to the redoubtable Suzanne Gluck, to her incomparable assistant Clio Seraphim; and across in London, to my great friend Simon Trewin. My sincerest thanks, and blessings to you all!

  Simon Winchester

  Sandisfield, Massachusetts

  July 2015

  About the Author

  Simon Winchester is the bestselling author of Atlantic, Krakatoa, The Map that Changed the World and The Surgeon of Crowthorne, among many other titles. In 2006, he was awarded an OBE. Born in England, he now lives in western Massachusetts and New York City.

  Also by SIMON WINCHESTER

  In Holy Terror

  American Heartbeat

  Their Noble Lordships

  Stones of Empire (photographer)

  Outposts

  Prison Diary, Argentina

  Hong Kong: Here Be Dragons

  Kor
ea: A Walk Through the Land of Miracles

  Pacific Rising

  Small World

  Pacific Nightmare

  The River at the Center

  of the World

  The Surgeon of Crowthorne

  The Fracture Zone

  The Map That Changed the World

  Krakatoa

  The Meaning of Everything

  A Crack in the Edge of the World

  Bomb, Book and Compass

  West Coast: Bering to Baja

  Skulls

  Atlantic

  The Men Who United the States

  When the Earth Shakes

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