Amies attacks, ref 1
ancestry of, ref 1
Antigua holiday of, ref 1
art bought by, ref 1, ref 2
art embraced by, ref 1
asylum fascinates, ref 1
athlete’s-foot fetish of, ref 1
and Belgravia house, ref 1
Best International Designer award for, ref 1
Billy doll’s outfit designed by, ref 1
birth of, ref 1, ref 2
Bond Street shop of, ref 1, ref 2
British Fashion Council sponsors, ref 1
and Buddhism, ref 1
burst appendix suffered by, ref 1
CBE honour for, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
at Central St Martins, ref 1, ref 2
Central St Martins accepts, ref 1
changed look of, ref 1
changing behaviour of, ref 1
charity established by, see Sarabande
childhood fashion sense of, ref 1
childhood mischief of, ref 1, ref 2
‘coolest brand in the world’, ref 1
credit-card design of, ref 1
cremation and burial of, ref 1, ref 2
described as enigma, ref 1
Designer of the Year awards for, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6
dogs of, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10, ref 11, ref 12, ref 13, ref 14
in Downing Street, ref 1
and drugs, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10
early fashion interest of, ref 1
early photos of, ref 1, ref 2
enrols at technical college, ref 1
and exorcism, ref 1
and falconry, ref 1
father’s homophobia suffered by, ref 1
favourite books of, ref 1
film work of, ref 1
final MA course show of, ref 1
first Manhattan visit of, ref 1
40th birthday of, ref 1
foundation established by, ref 1
friends learn of death of, ref 1
funeral of, ref 1
George’s ‘marriage’ to, ref 1
Gibo deal of, ref 1
gingivitis suffered by, ref 1, ref 2
Givenchy post offered to, ref 1; see also Givenchy
on grandparents, ref 1
Gucci deal of, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
guest editorship by, ref 1
and HIV, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
honorary doctorates of, ref 1, ref 2
at ICA debate, ref 1
inquest on, ref 1
International Fashion Group Award for, ref 1
and jacket for Prince Charles, ref 1
logo of, ref 1
Los Angeles store of, ref 1
Majorca holiday of, ref 1
memorial service for, ref 1
in Milan, ref 1
as model, ref 1
and mother’s death, ref 1
moves into new house with Murray, ref 1
near window fall of, ref 1
new business premises of, ref 1, ref 2
New York show of, ref 1
New York and Tokyo stores of, ref 1
ornithology embraced by, ref 1
Pennan holiday of, ref 1
perfume launched by, ref 1
photography taken up by, ref 1
plagiarism accusation against, ref 1
pub jobs of, ref 1, ref 2
Puma deal of, ref 1
and rent boys, ref 1
Ritz show of, ref 1
schooling of, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Scotland loved by, ref 1
sexual abuse suffered by, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
sexuality of, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
at Smirnoff Awards, ref 1
suicide attempts of, ref 1, ref 2
suicide of, ref 1, ref 2
suicide threat of, ref 1
and tattoos, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
tooth damage suffered by, ref 1
tributes to, ref 1
and use of human body parts, ref 1
vehicles bought by, ref 1
villa bought by, ref 1
Vogue award for, ref 1
and wealth, hates flaunting of, ref 1
weight of, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
will of, ref 1, ref 2
YSL turned down by, ref 1
see also collections/shows
McQueen, Michael (brother), ref 1
becomes taxi driver, ref 1
birth of, ref 1
on grandparents, ref 1
heart attack suffered by, ref 1, ref 2
on Lee’s birth, ref 1
and Lee’s death, ref 1
on Lee’s early life, ref 1
McQueen, Paul (nephew), ref 1
Lee babysits for, ref 1
McQueen, Ronald (father):
birth and early life of, ref 1
breakdown of, ref 1, ref 2
cancer diagnosed in, ref 1
and children’s upbringing, ref 1
council house bought by, ref 1
death of, ref 1
first job of, ref 1
homophobia displayed by, ref 1
Joyce introduced to, ref 1, ref 2
Lee buys house for, ref 1
at Lee shows, ref 1
and Lee’s death, ref 1
and Lee’s school report, ref 1
and Lee’s self-storage unit, ref 1
marriage of, ref 1
at memorial, ref 1
questions circumstances of Lee’s death, ref 1
trains as taxi driver, ref 1
McQueen, Samuel Frederick (paternal grandfather), ref 1, ref 2
McQueen, Tony (brother), ref 1, ref 2
becomes bricklayer, ref 1
birth of, ref 1
on family’s poverty, ref 1
on father’s breakdown, ref 1
on grandmother, ref 1
at Lee’s burial, ref 1
on Lee’s childhood accidents, ref 1
on Lee’s dog, ref 1
on Lee’s early life, ref 1
on Lee’s MA studies, ref 1
and Lee’s private life, ref 1
on Lee’s vehicles, ref 1
and mother’s death, ref 1
McQueen, Tracy (sister), ref 1
birth of, ref 1
Mair, Avril, ref 1
Malone, Carole, ref 1
Margiela, Martin, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Mason, David, ref 1
Massacret, Jay, ref 1, ref 2
Lee meets, ref 1
Lee parts from, ref 1
on Lee’s laughter, ref 1
Maybury, John, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
on AIDS, ref 1
Meakin, Jason, ref 1
childhood mischief of, ref 1
Lee’s schooldays remembered by, ref 1
Meisel, Steven, ref 1, ref 2
Menkes, Suzy, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9
at memorial, ref 1
Merrell, Trevor, ref 1
Michael of Kent, Princess, ref 1
Minogue, Kylie, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Mirren, Helen, ref 1
Mivasagar, Réva, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
on Bowery, ref 1
on Kinky Gerlinky, ref 1
on Lee–Issie meeting, ref 1
Lee’s deteriorating relationship with, ref 1
moves in with Lee, ref 1
Morgan-Harris, Guy, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Moss, Kate, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9
drugs allegations against, ref 1
England poached by, ref 1
and Lee–George ‘marriage’, ref 1
at memorial, ref 1
Mouret, Roland, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Mower, Sarah, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Mullins, Aimee, ref 1, ref 2
Neilson, Annabelle, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3,
ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9
and Lee–George ‘marriage’, ref 1
Newton, Helmut, ref 1, ref 2
Niland, Seta, ref 1, ref 2
Nyman, Michael, ref 1
O’Callaghan, Cornelius ‘Con’, ref 1, ref 2
Özbek, Rifat, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
Paintgate, ref 1
Palau, Guido, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Paltrow, Gwyneth, ref 1, ref 2
Parker, Sarah Jessica, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
Pearl, Mr, ref 1, ref 2
Pemberton, Muriel, ref 1, ref 2
Pereira, Dr Stephen, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Pinault, François, ref 1
Pinault, François-Henri, ref 1, ref 2
Polan, Brenda, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Pons, Sebastian, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
and Lee’s death, ref 1
Lee’s reunion with, ref 1
Puma, ref 1
Pye, Cressida, ref 1, ref 2
Red or Dead, ref 1, ref 2
Reed, Archie, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7
and Lee–George ‘marriage’, ref 1
Lee meets, ref 1
and Lee’s afterlife obsession, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
and Lee’s death, ref 1
on Lee’s drugs habit, ref 1
and Lee’s jealousy, ref 1
on Lee’s pub work, ref 1
Lee’s separation from, ref 1
Rees, Dai, ref 1, ref 2
Reflections, ref 1, ref 2
Rendel, Rev. Jason, ref 1
Roberts, Michael, ref 1, ref 2
Rocha, John, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Rose, Eric, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Russell, William, ref 1
Rust, Ike, ref 1
Saatchi, Charles, ref 1, ref 2
Sade, Marquis de, ref 1, ref 2
St Martins, see Central St Martins
Samuel, Kathryn, ref 1
Sarabande, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Schiaparelli, Elsa, ref 1
Schoerner, Norbert, ref 1
Shaw, Aiden, ref 1
Shaw, Debra, ref 1
Sheppard, Sidney, ref 1
Skinner, Frank, ref 1
Smirnoff Awards, ref 1
Smith, Alice, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6
and Lee’s death, ref 1
on Lee’s drugs habit, ref 1
on Lee’s family, ref 1
and Lee’s Givenchy appointment, ref 1
and Lee’s logo, ref 1
at memorial, ref 1
Smith, Joan, ref 1
Sozzani, Carla, ref 1, ref 2
Sozzani, Franca, ref 1, ref 2
Stag, Paul, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Stemp, Sue, ref 1, ref 2
Strathdee, Lise, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Street-Porter, Janet, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6
Sykes, Plum, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
novel launch for, ref 1
Tatsuno, Koji, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Taylor-Wood, Sam, ref 1, ref 2
Teeuw, Glenn, ref 1, ref 2
Tennant, Stella, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
Tequila, Sheila, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Terrence Higgins Trust, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
Textist, ref 1
Thurman, Judith, ref 1, ref 2
Tilberis, Liz, ref 1, ref 2
Todd, Stephen, ref 1
Tomlinson, Derrick, ref 1
Townsend, Nicholas ‘Trixie’, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6
Treacy, Philip, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
and Issie’s funeral dress, ref 1
Lee meets, ref 1
Trixie, see Townsend, Nicholas
Ungless, Simon, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10
and Birds, ref 1, ref 2
and Browns gift certificate, ref 1
and Dante, ref 1
and Hunger, ref 1
Lee moves into rented house of, ref 1
moves out, ref 1
Urquhart, Donald, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7
and Lee’s death, ref 1
Verkade, Trino, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
and Lee’s death, ref 1
Versace, Gianni, ref 1, ref 2
Wade, Michelle, ref 1, ref 2
Wade, Tania, ref 1, ref 2
Waplington, Nick, ref 1
Warhol, Andy, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4
Watt, Judith, ref 1, ref 2
Webb, Iain R., ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Webb, Katie, ref 1, ref 2
Weinberg, Serge, ref 1
Westwood, Vivienne, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
Lee attacked by, ref 1
Lee criticizes, ref 1, ref 2
Whiteley, Sue, ref 1
Wilcox, Claire, ref 1, ref 2
Wilson, Jane, ref 1
Wilson, Prof. Louise, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8
and Lee’s death, ref 1
Lee’s difficult relationship with, ref 1
Winehouse, Amy, ref 1
Wintour, Anna, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
at memorial, ref 1, ref 2
Witkin, Joel-Peter, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Youmans, Kerry, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9
Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5
List of Illustrations
1. Lee’s paternal grandparents, Samuel and Grace McQueen. ‘Grace kept her home and children spotless but this left very little time to demonstrate any love to her children,’ said Joyce, Lee’s mother.
2. Lee’s parents, Ron and Joyce McQueen on their wedding day, 10 October 1953. The couple had six children: Janet, Tony, Michael, Tracy, Jacqui, and in March 1969, Lee Alexander.
3. 43 Shifford Path, Wynell Road, Forest Hill, as it is today.
4. Soon after the birth of Lee, the McQueen family moved from south London to Stratford, into a council house at 11 Biggerstaff Road.
5. Lee said that he was six years old when he first realised that he was gay. On a family holiday he won a ‘Prince of Pontin’s’ competition, but he wanted the boy who came second to win ‘because I fancied him!’
6. Lee’s childhood was full of dark secrets that continued to haunt him throughout his life. ‘I gave adults a lot of time when I was young and some of them hurt me,’ he said. ‘And that way I learned even more. Let’s say I turned the negative into a positive.’
7. Lee with fellow pupils at Rokeby comprehensive school in Stratford, east London. Lee’s nickname was ‘Queeny’ or ‘Queer boy Queeny.’
8. Lee the apprentice tailor at Anderson & Sheppard, Savile Row, where he started work in 1986. ‘I hardly had any qualifications when I left school, so I thought the best way to do it was to learn the construction of clothes properly and go from there,’ he said.
9. Lee as a student at St Martins, the London college that changed his life. ‘If you were a misfit and you hadn’t fitted in anywhere, then art school was the place where you could feel at home,’ said Louise Wilson, head of the MA fashion course.
10. From the beginning, Isabella Blow called McQueen by his middle name as she thought it sounded more appropriate for a young fashion designer who wanted to make his mark. Later, Lee would insist that he had not changed his name simply because Blow believed that ‘Alexander’ sounded more upmarket. ‘I dropped my first name when I started working for myself because I was signing on at the time,’ he said.
11. Lee with boyfriend Andrew Groves, or ‘Jimmy Jumble’. The couple met in the summer of 1994 in Comptons, the London gay bar. The relationship lasted, in fashion terms, ‘four seasons’, until the couple split in 1996. ‘It was a bit like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton,’ said Andrew. ‘I just thought all that high drama and energy and fighting was part of being in a full-on relationship.’
12.
Lee with his Spanish friend, Miguel Adrover in the mid-90s. He remembers Lee as both shy and insecure and ‘the most fun person I ever met on this fucking planet’.
13. Lee with flatmate Mira Chai Hyde, a hairdresser and men’s grooming specialist, and his dog Minter in their Hoxton Square loft, where he lived from 1995 until early 1997. Once he asked her to cut a tramline into his hair in the form of a heart monitor that had flatlined, a symbol that he incorporated into his shows and an image that haunted him until his death.
14. Lee with Minter in the Hoxton Square loft (above), where he lived with his Scottish boyfriend Murray Arthur (below). The couple met in July 1996 and their relationship lasted two years. ‘He was my first love and he will be my only love,’ said Murray. ‘I was in it because of Lee, not Alexander, McQueen.’
15. Lee’s boyfriend Richard Brett, who he met in April 1998. ‘Lee really struggled with relationships,’ said Richard. ‘He wanted partners he could control but he was attracted to people who were resistant to that. His positive side was almost addictive and incredibly good fun, but when he was in a dark place he was really difficult to deal with, it was exhausting and quite draining.’
16. McQueen backstage at a Givenchy fashion show with models Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen. Joyce McQueen described the prospect of her son taking over a Paris atelier as ‘a fairy-tale’, while Lee himself said of couture, ‘It is where the dreams of your life in fashion become reality.’
17. Lee now had to travel between London and Paris, but he had little intention of learning French. ‘I remember being in a fitting with him and he was asking the guy [in the Givenchy studio] to take in the shoulder, “un petit pois”, a “little pea,”’ said one friend.
18. A newly-skinny Lee with model Kate Moss. She described him in the following terms: ‘Anarchist, fun, thin, controversial, friend, loyal, charismatic, innovative, dark, determined.’
19. Lee with Annabelle Neilson at the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel in May 2000.
20. Lee ‘was drawn to people who were wounded’ said his friend Daphne Guinness.
21. Isabella introduced Lee to Annabelle Neilson, but she later regretted it. ‘She did say that that was the worst introduction she had ever made,’ said Daphne.
22. A frock coat with a barbed thorn pattern from McQueen’s 1992 MA collection. He was fascinated by thorns – ‘They really represent me, they represent who I am,’ he said.
23. ‘Alexander McQueen’s debut was a horror show,’ wrote Marion Hume in 1993 in the Independent, which devoted a whole page to Nihilism under the headline ‘McQueen’s Theatre of Cruelty’.
Alexander McQueen Page 42