by Tembi Locke
1 celery stalk with some tender leaves, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons dried Sicilian oregano
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
If you are using vinegar-cured green olives, drain them of excess liquid and pat dry. In a bowl, combine the olives with the olive oil, carrots, celery, garlic, oregano, red pepper flakes, and vinegar. Stir well and allow to marinate for an hour or so. Serve at room temperature.
Makes 2 cups.
Second Summer
DITALINI CON LENTICCHIE
Ditalini Pasta with Lentils
This is always the first dish Nonna serves us when we arrive. When I see the steaming plate hit the table, it is absolutely poetic. I know I am home. This dish tells any traveler that home is sharing a table with the people you love.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion
31/2 cups dry lentils, green or brown (not Le Puy)
2 small carrots, chopped
1 celery stalk or 1 small bunch celery leaves, chopped
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon sea salt plus additional if desired
Black pepper to taste
1/2 cup fresh chard or fresh spinach, chopped (optional)
Pinch of dried oregano
1 box ditalini pasta
In a saucepan, combine the olive oil and onion and cook over a medium flame for about 5 minutes. Add the lentils and stir to coat with the oil. Add 4 cups water and the carrots and celery and bring to a boil. Add the garlic, 1 tablespoon sea salt, and black pepper to taste. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the chard or spinach and oregano and simmer for another 20 to 25 minutes. Season with additional salt to taste.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling well-salted water. Drain well. Transfer the pasta to the saucepan and mix well, coating all the pasta with the lentil mixture. Add an additional bit of olive oil to bring it all together. Dust with pecorino or parmigiano cheese, if desired. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6.
PUREA DE FAVE CON CROSTINI
Pureed Fava Beans with Crostini
Shelling fresh fava beans is a labor of love. Removing the hull and peeling back the outer skin of each bean takes time, patience, and a soulful respect for the cultivation of this generous bean. There is a reason it has been a Mediterranean mainstay for centuries. For me, preparing fava beans is a kind of meditation. I put on some music, pour myself a glass of wine, and ready the beans. It is the way Saro taught me. Once prepared, these crostini are a sublime delicacy, earthy and inspired.
2 pounds of fresh fava beans, still in the pod
21/4 teaspoons sea salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 small white onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
1 baguette or loaf of artisanal bread
1 clove garlic to rub on the bread
Thinly sliced pecorino cheese for garnish (optional)
Shuck the fava beans (remove the beans from their bulky pods). Fill a large saucepan half full of water and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring the water to a boil. Meanwhile, put a few cups of ice in a medium mixing bowl and fill with water.
Add the beans to the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, no more. Turn off the heat and strain the beans into the ice-water bath. (Be careful to save a bit of the water that the beans were boiled in.) Let the beans sit in the ice bath for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the ice water from the pan. Remove the outer coating of each bean, pinching the end and slipping the bean out of the skin.
In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil and add the onion. Cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the beans, the saved bean water, and the remaining salt. Stir and allow to simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the mint, and add the lemon juice. Put the mixture into a food processor and blend until creamy smooth, streaming in a little more olive oil if necessary to make it creamier. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Slice the bread into 1-inch-thick slices. Grill or broil until lightly golden. Remove, rub with a clove of garlic, and brush with olive oil. Top each piece of bread with a hearty heap of fava bean puree. Garnish with a slice of pecorino, if desired. Top with the remaining mint.
Makes a dozen pieces.
PESCE SPADA ALLA GRIGLIA CON SALSA SALMORIGLIO
Grilled Swordfish with Salsa Salmoriglio
On the coast of Sicily, we eat a lot of fresh fish. In the seaside town of Cefalù, it is not uncommon to see whole or halves of freshly caught swordfish on display at the markets throughout town. On one trip, Zoela and I were seated in a restaurant when a fisherman brought his catch directly to the chef, who prepared only the freshest fish. In Sicily, grilled swordfish is served with salmoriglio sauce, which is both a marinade and a dressing. It is impressive, beautifully flavored, and easy to prepare.
2 tablespoons Sicilian oregano, dried or fresh (finely chopped if fresh)
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
2 tablespoons fresh chopped mint (optional)
Juice of 2 to 3 lemons, strained
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Coarse sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste
4 swordfish steaks, 5 to 6 ounces each
Rinse the fresh herbs and pat them dry. Set aside 2 teaspoons of lemon juice for later.
Pour the olive oil into a bowl and whisk, gradually adding the garlic, the remaining lemon juice, and the herbs. The marinade will be a bit dense, almost a paste. Add pepper to taste. Set aside.
Brush the swordfish with 2 teaspoons of lemon juice and the olive oil marinade. Dust with sea salt. Grill the swordfish until cooked through, about 3 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Transfer to plates. Spoon the remaining sauce over each steak and serve.
Serves 4.
CAPONATA CLASSICA
Classic Caponata
For me, this classic sweet-and-sour eggplant dish is the heart of Sicily. No two caponata dishes are exactly alike, however; each is an expression of the heart and imagination of the person who made it. I have had it in Nonna’s kitchen and as far away as Siracusa. Dark, savory, briny, and sweet, I call this dish heaven.
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 medium to large eggplants, cut into 11/2 inch cubes
Salt to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, cut lengthwise and thinly sliced
3 celery stalks, blanched 1 minute in boiling water, then coarsely chopped
2 carrots, chopped
10 pitted green olives, cut lengthwise into thirds
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and drained
11/2 cups good-quality tomato sauce (see recipe for Salsa Pronta)
1 small bunch of fresh basil, chopped
1/4 cup white or red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon honey or sugar, or to taste
1/2 cup raisins (optional)
1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Heat 1 inch of vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet. Add the cubed eggplant in batches and fry until well browned all over, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt. Set aside.
In another large skillet, combine the olive oil and onion and sauté over medium-high heat until just golden, about 5 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, olives, capers, tomato sauce, basil, vinegar, and honey or sugar. Stir gently. Salt to taste.
Gently add the eggplant, being careful not to break it up into pieces. Add the raisins, if desired. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Correct the salt. Then transfer to a large bowl or platter and allow to cool. Garnish the caponata with chopped parsley. Serve at room temperature.
Caponata can also be served cold on a hot summer day. For added flavor and an extra bi
t of texture, sprinkle toasted almonds on top.
Serves 4 to 6.
MELANZANE ALLA PARMIGIANA
Eggplant Parmigiana
Chargrilled eggplant works beautifully in this classic dish. It’s actually the only way I make it in L.A. I have a weakness for the chargrilled flavor that you won’t get with frying. The joy of this dish is in the layering. Two layers of eggplant will do, but three or four are divine.
4 to 5 medium to large eggplants, cut in 1/2-inch-thick rounds
Coarse sea salt
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon Sicilian dried oregano
6 cups quality tomato sauce (see recipe for Salsa Pronta)
1/3 cup pecorino or parmigiano cheese, finely grated
1 bunch of basil, stems removed and chopped
Preheat the oven to 375° F.
Place the eggplant rounds in a large bowl. Liberally sprinkle salt all over them and allow them to sit in the bowl to release the excess water from the eggplant. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, drain the water from the bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, coating each slice, then season with the black pepper, garlic, and oregano.
Grill each round 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Set aside.
Heat the tomato sauce on medium-high flame.
Drizzle the bottom of a large ceramic or glass baking dish with olive oil and cover it with 1 cup of tomato sauce. Line the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of eggplant. Spoon tomato sauce on top of the eggplant. Add grated cheese and basil leaves. Then repeat with another layer of eggplant. Coat with another layer of sauce, cheese, and basil. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 30 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6.
SFUAGGHIU
“Schiavelli’s Cake”
This cake is about adventure, longing, persistence, and hope all at once. Today, when I see the photograph of Saro and Vincent Schiavelli in our L.A. apartment long ago, smiling and holding the cake, my heart soars. I like to imagine that those immigrant sons are enjoying a bite together wherever their souls may be. (Note: To my knowledge, Pino the baker never divulged his recipe to Schiavelli. It does not appear in Schiavelli’s book, Many Beautiful Things. I found this recipe, a variation of the cake he discussed in his book, on the official site of the town of Polizzi Generosa.) I’ve included the recipe here for the truly adventurous baker.
For the filling:
1 pound fresh tuma cheese
5 egg whites, room temperature
2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Dark chocolate, to taste
1/3 cup candied fruit, cut into pieces
For the cake:
4 cups flour
1 cup lard, cut into pieces, plus more for greasing the pan
6 egg yolks, beaten, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup powdered sugar
Preheat the oven to 375° F.
Make the filling: Grate the cheese very fine into a bowl. Add the egg whites, beating in the sugar, cinnamon, chocolate, and candied fruit alternately. Mix well and set aside.
Make the cake: Add the flour to a bowl and make an indentation in it. Add the lard to the indentation, then fold in the flour, mixing well with your hands. Add the sugar and egg yolks. Continue to mix well with your hands. If it is dry, feel free to add a little water. Roll out half the batter into a thin layer about 1/2-inch thick. Place on the bottom of a 9-inch round springform baking pan greased with lard and dusted with flour.
Assemble the cake: Pour the filling over the dough, being careful not to pour it too high as it will swell when baking. Cover it with another layer of dough. Pinch the sides closed along the edges. Bake for about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and dust with powdered sugar. Let the cake rest for a whole day before eating.
Serves 12 to 14.
Third Summer
SALSA PRONTA
Classic Tomato Sauce
Normally, this sauce would be made with fresh San Marzano tomatoes in a large cauldron over a wood-burning fire. This recipe is a version you can do any time of year in your home kitchen. I make large pots of it, then store it in the refrigerator or freezer. That way, I am never without “ready sauce” for pasta, lasagna, soups, or eggplant parmigiana. (Note: the longer you cook the sauce, the denser it will be. If desired, you can cook it into a loose paste. It is delicious as a pizza sauce.)
2 (28-ounce) cans San Marzano tomatoes, chopped
2 large red onions, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Large bunch of basil
1 tablespoon sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon sugar
Oregano and red pepper flakes (optional)
Combine the tomatoes and 1/2 cup water in a large pot. Add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer, covered, for about 40 minutes, stirring frequently to keep from sticking. Remove from the heat. Pass through a food mill or blend in a blender to make a puree.
In a food processor, combine the olive oil, basil, and the remaining onion and garlic. Puree until very smooth.
In a clean pot, combine the tomato puree and the basil puree. Cook over medium heat, uncovered, until it thickens, 20 to 30 minutes (longer if you are going for a paste consistency). Remove from heat. Add the salt and sugar. If you are making sauce for pizza or prefer a little spicier flavor, add a small amount of oregano and/or pinch of red pepper flakes.
This sauce can be canned in sterilized jars while still hot or stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days or in the freezer for up to a month.
Makes about 8 cups.
PASTA CON ZUCCHINI
Sicilian Summer Pasta
There are many varieties of Sicilian zucchini; the most majestic is the long, pale green type known as cucuzze. Farmers all around Aliminusa grow them in abundance. Unpretentious, they are featured in soups, in pastas, and on the grill. Cucuzze are not found in supermarkets stateside. However, this recipe works just as well with the zucchini found in your local grocery store. This can be made as a pasta sauce or as a stand-alone side dish.
1 medium red onion, chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound fresh summer tomatoes, Roma or plum, peeled and chopped
3 medium zucchini, chopped (peeled if you prefer, but not necessary)
1 vegetable bouillon cube
1/2 cup torn fresh basil leaves
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
Spaghetti or your preferred long pasta
Shredded ricotta salata or grated pecorino for garnish
In a saucepan, sauté the onion in olive oil over medium-high heat for about 2 to 3 minutes, until golden. Add the tomatoes and cook for another two minutes. Add the zucchini and stir. Break the bouillon cube into the saucepan, then add the basil, 3/4 cup water, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook over medium heat, until the zucchini is soft, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to sit.
Boil the pasta in well-salted water. Drain. Return to pot. Add the zucchini and tomato sauce and stir well, streaming in a bit of additional olive oil to bring together the sauce and the pasta. Plate and sprinkle with cheese as a garnish or abundantly, if you desire.
Serves 4 to 6.
PENNE CON FINOCCHIO E FAVE
Penne with Fennel and Fava Beans
If there is one dish that transports me to my first trip to Sicily with Saro, the time he unfurled the island to me in all its glory, this dish is it. It reminds me of his life force, his “spring,” his ultimate evolution of spirit. Plus it is just damn good. (This recipe calls for the fennel found at your local grocer. But if you want to grow your own fennel, you will marvel at what nature can do.) Saro, I hope I make you proud with this one.
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
2 cups fresh fava beans, shelled
2 cups chopped fennel greens (the top of the bulb)
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse sea salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
11/2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1 white onion, chopped
1 pound penne pasta
Freshly grated pecorino cheese
Cracked pepper for garnish (optional)
Bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Add the sea salt and stir. Add the fava beans and fennel greens. Simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes.
Using a strainer, remove the beans and greens. Briefly set aside the vegetable water, then transfer it into a large pot you’ll use for cooking the pasta.
In a food processor, puree the beans and the greens with 1/2 cup of the olive oil and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Add 3 quarts of water to the vegetable water in the pot and bring to a boil. Add 11/2 tablespoons sea salt.
Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, heat the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and the onion over a medium-high flame until it turns golden brown, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat and fold in the puree. Simmer over a very low flame for 5 minutes.
Cook the pasta in the well-salted boiling water, stirring often, until al dente. Drain the penne and return it to the pot. Add the puree of beans and greens, toss well, stream in a bit of olive oil, and simmer on low heat for 1 minute. Add a little extra pasta water if you like a thinner sauce.
Serve hot, garnished liberally with pecorino and a bit of cracked pepper if desired. Then toast to your life.
Serves 4 to 6.
INSALATA DI FINOCCHIO
Shaved Fennel and Citrus Salad
Being in Sicily has taught me the pleasure of eating raw fennel, often sprinkled with just a little salt, at the end of a meal. It is an old island custom to eat the fennel as a digestive, like a piece of fruit. At home I turn to this recipe as an alternative to a traditional lettuce salad. I adore the contrast of textures and the bright citrus flavors. In my version, I forgo including slices of orange in the salad itself. Instead, I prefer the zesty citrus essence to come through in the dressing. This salad is at once crispy, citrusy, and salty with a hint of sweetness—a refreshing Sicilian pick-me-up.