BYRD.
BYRD:
We are not prepared to continue as you suggest. Have had great difficulty with stove and unable to fix it here. Supporting Party can continue slowly without changing its mission. All hands here agree that it will be impossible for Geological Party to accomplish mission as planned. More far reaching changes in plans than you suggest are necessary and should be decided promptly. Can’t do it satisfactorily by radio. We must return to camp before taking our final departure and believe it best to do so at once and get the whole matter straightened out as it is not simple. Could you have seen man-hauling with the dogs for the last few days as we have, you would realize as we all do we have expected too much of them and must change our plans accordingly. It is the best judgment of all here that the Supporting Party continue and that we return at once. Cheerio.
LARRY.
About six o’clock in the evening, October 17th, the Geological Party returned to Little America, having dropped their loads at 20 Mile Depot. They came back exhausted, thoroughly chastened by the experience and oppressed by the thought that, in its larger aspects, the original plan of the Geological Party was doubtful of fulfillment. Thorne’s opinion as to the loads has been vindicated, but the matter was by no means as gloomy as it appeared. The men had paid infinite attention to detail in the planning, and I was convinced that by lightening loads the mission could be accomplished. Dr. Gould returned suffering from the effects of a fall while skiing.
The Geological Party held a conference next morning, at which I was present. There the plan was considered in detail, in the chill light of the recent experience on the trail, and at first glance it appeared there was no alternative save to give up the first plan and lay out a less rigorous programme. But this neither Larry nor I was prepared to do, as long as there was a reasonable hope of success. I repeated then, as I had done on many occasions, the thought that the scientific objectives of the Geological Party were surely of equal importance to, if not of greater importance than the purely geographic investigations of the Aviation Unit; that if this party failed to accomplish the outlined work in the field, the fabric of the whole plan must be weakened, and the value of the expedition the less for it. Much of my hope was in that plan; and I was not yet willing to admit that it should be modified substantially because the first assault failed to carry everything before it. The Antarctic begrudges everything except hardships; no single effort can overwhelm it; only a stubborn, extended struggle can succeed.
I did not propose to tell them how to lighten the loads to accomplish the mission. They could do that better than I. But I did promise every resource at the command of the expedition. The only thing I could not do (and which some men did not understand) was to promise assistance by aviation. I would gladly give it in an emergency; but the few flights we had made the previous fall had convinced me that aerial operations a long distance from base were risky; and that landing away from base should be attempted only when absolutely necessary. I had secretly made up my mind to leave food by plane, but I did not want plans to be based on it.
In order that part of its burdens be lessened, I proposed that the Geological Party give up the idea of assisting the Polar Flight unit in the laying down of a base at the foot of the Queen Maud Range; and to give it sufficient time to accomplish its work, I promised to hold the City in the Bay of Whales until February 10; and, if that were not enough, to charter one of the whale chasers attached to the Ross Sea whaling fleet and have it stand by as late as February 25th.
I then left Dr. Gould and his men to work the problem out. I had confidence in them. They were determined, resourceful and courageous men.
It was then proposed that the Geological Party prepare to depart within 48 hours for a second preliminary test trip, with the supplementary purpose of relaying the loads dumped at 20 Mile Depot at least 100 miles south.
That night, Friday, October 18th, Walden reported by radio that the Supporting Party had passed 40 Mile Depot and was now at 44 Mile Depot, having covered 20 miles that day in eight hours’ travelling. They took aboard 480 pounds of supplies for the Geological Party. He reported good surface, a strong wind and a temperature just above zero. This was indeed encouraging.
Saturday, the 19th, brought an east wind. At Little America the sky was overcast, and a light snow fell at intervals; but at 44 Mile Depot they reported an all-day blizzard, with heavy drift, which forced them to remain in their sleeping bags.
The following morning the wind abated, the temperature rose above zero, but the fog held and the Supporting Party groped its way well to the east of the mass of crevasses in which Amundsen’s party nearly came to grief and which he fittingly named The Trap. In spite of the poor conditions, they covered 20.8 miles. When they struck camp that night a dispatch from de Ganahl, who was navigator and radio operator, said the easting had carried them safely past the area of disturbance, and from their tent they could see two large haycocks at its edge. That night another blizzard overtook them, holding the party in camp until noon, Monday.
Sunday also saw the departure of the Geological Party. It was made up of five sledges—Goodale, Crockett, O’Brien, Thorne and Vaughan,—with Vaughan in charge. Dr. Gould remained in camp to prepare his final plan. That night Vaughan reported by radio that all was well; they had picked up the first loads and were camped at 20 Mile Depot.
Monday, the wind, which had been holding in the east, shifted to the east-southeast, and the temperature dropped fast, ending the warm spell which had lessened the difficulties; that day the Supporting Party logged only 9.7 miles and the Geological Party II. The first reported a temperature of I 7° below zero, the second 40° below and at Little America it reached 25° below, and was still falling.
Tuesday, the 22nd, both parties rose from damp and icy sleeping bags and flung themselves forward again. Vaughan reported his party was now 45 miles south, having made only 14 miles. Birch and Spy, he reported, were weakening and progress was distressingly slow. From the Supporting Party there was no word; but de Ganahl said later they had covered eight miles in six hours of fierce pulling: “It was like sledging on sand. We would go 200 yards and then stop. We camped early with the dogs exhausted. It was bitter cold in the open, but we preferred to keep moving rather than freeze in the sleeping bags.”
As these discouraging reports came in—as the weather remained cold and overcast, holding the Fairchild to the ground—gloom descended on the camp. We could not, of course, witness the struggle; but we knew the character of the men who were out on the Barrier, we appreciated their difficulties, and it was as clear as if the scene were before our eyes that only the most wretched kind of going could be holding them back. Surely we could not be defeated so early in the game! Yet the evidence was before our eyes, in the terse messages, the discouragingly low mileage, the hard-wrung admissions of troubles.
On the 23rd Vaughan radioed:
GOULD:
16 miles today. Advise strongly our returning. Birch, Spy, Torngnac, Ski, Amy and Tennant all weakening. Immediate rest necessary if they are to serve us later. Important deficiencies found in gear. Much overhauling necessary.
Gould replied:
VAUGHAN:
Very sorry if you are unable to make 100 miles on this preliminary trip. Can you not try to proceed with lighter loads and let poor dogs run? Must cut our time in field short at least 15 days and you might as well lighten loads accordingly now, but above all else plan to come back from this trip with all the dogs.
Vaughan said:
GOULD:
75 miles is limit at which can bring all dogs back. Think more mileage a hindrance rather than help. Will do whatever you say.
Gould replied:
VAUGHAN:
Please take rest of day or two and see if situation doesn’t look better for dogs. Cannot see how we can make 440 miles later if dogs can’t do 100 miles now. Don’t quite understand what you mean that more mileage a hindrance rather than help. So far you have made exceptionally goo
d time and we have been greatly encouraged here.
Vaughan replied:
GOULD:
Will lighten loads and proceed. Have not been driving dogs to limit in order to save them for final trip. Cannot guarantee to bring all dogs back.
There was no word from either of the southern parties on October 24th. McKinley and Feury made a series of test runs in the snowmobile, for which Czegka had built a new set of wider treads, on the theory that a wider webbing would be effective over soft snow. Even with this, however, the machine became bogged several times, not far from camp, and the two men had to dig it out with snow shovels. On firm crust it was superb. It could then make 20 miles per hour with ease. We were sufficiently encouraged to start it south, in the hope that it might survive the Barrier long enough to mitigate substantially the burdens of the Geological Party. With a clatter of machinery, the snowmobile rolled down the decline to Versur-Mer Inlet. Half the time it was obscured in a blizzard of its own making. After much reconnoitering, McKinley and Feury finally found passage through the pressure ridges to the westward; for the dog trail to the south was absolutely impassable to the snowmobile. McKinley brought out a platoon of snow shovellers and they smoothed out the rough spots. The snowmobile charged the surface, carrying everything before it. It was left south of the pressure ridges, and the men returned to camp, to evolve a means of carrying the Barrier on the morrow. The machine towed three sledges, loaded with food for the bases.
Friday
October 25th
Sky overcast, east wind, temperature 10° below, although zero at noon.
Conditions on the trail are apparently improving. The Geological Party reports that it is 100 miles south, having made good time since lightening the loads.
No word from the Supporting Party. They must have passed the 100 mile mark the day before yesterday.
The City has gone into dry dock, Captain Melville reports, for a final overhauling before departure.
Snowmobile is off. McKinley’s platoon of snow shovellers, after considerable effort, got the machine up on the Barrier and started it south. Strom is in charge, with Black and Feury assisting him. The snowmobile crew is certainly optimistic. They shot it across the filled-in crevasses like a tank bridging a trench, and scornfully asked McKinley if this was the well-known Barrier of which they had heard so much. I warned them to proceed carefully, and especially ordered Strom to see that Feury, who was driving, wore a life line while crossing crevasses.
Not long ago we heard agonizing groans from the bay, and I think it is a mother seal giving birth to pups. The sound carries wonderfully clear on the still air.
Saturday
October 26th
Better news today.
Walden reported that the Supporting Party made 13.8 miles on the 24th, 11.5 on the 25th and 20 today. Today they laid Depot No. 2 at Lat. 80° 10’ S., Long. 163° 35’ W. They left 200 pounds of provisions.
De Ganahl, in his press dispatch, said the going during the last three days was very hard, with the surface alternating between a granular hard crust and soft patches of drift snow. The wind picked up drift, forcing them to keep up their parka hoods. Apparently it is very cold, but de Ganahl has lost his thermometer and sends as the daily reading “the average of guesses.” This has provoked much amusement.
Ten miles south of Depot No. 2 they were forced to abandon one sledge, to get rid of the extra weight.
No schedule with the Geological Party, which is returning to camp.
No word from the snowmobile party.
Little America is quiet. Aviation Unit working on the planes. It is a shame we cannot get some flying in.
Later
Vaughan reports the Geological Party made its second depot 99 miles out last night.
The day’s march was 24 miles. Some of the dogs have weakened and are being carried back on empty sledges.
Sunday
October 27th
Three things impress themselves upon my mind as a result of the Geological Party’s two trips:
1. Although the original loads were much too heavy, as some believed before the start, the actual situation was by no means as black as it appeared to be.
2. In order to accomplish its mission, the Geological Party had to advance its heavy loads at least ioo miles south.
3. The experience gained on the trail was absolutely necessary in view of the lack of experience of all hands in the party.
The Geological Party should now be able to make its advance as planned.
No word from any of the trail parties today. I am particularly anxious to get in touch with Vaughan, to have him stand by the snowmobile party for a radio conversation so that I can learn what progress it is making.
The snowmobile party is the only unit which has been allowed to go into the field with radio, and I have regretted letting them go. If they keep to the trail, they will be all right, especially as they have dog teams to the north and south of them.
Monday
October 28th
Igloo is in the infirmary again.
With the slickness for which he is distinguished, he broke away this morning and hot-footed it for the wild pups. When he came in he was covered with blood. One of the pups tore out the stitches of the old wound, and he had a new gash on his throat. While Mulroy held him, Dr. Coman took a stitch in the new wound. He could do nothing with the old cut, from which all the flesh had been ripped, and patched it over with cotton.
But Igloo is not at all chastened.
Geological Party came in on the run just about supper time. Men in fine shape, but some of the dogs worn out. On the return trip, they covered 24 miles Saturday, 39 Sunday and 36 today. Vaughan said that the first few days after start were very cold, temperature varying from 40° below to 20° below. Their faces were severely burned and are peeling. Clothes which were soaked with perspiration while travelling froze before they could get them off when they pitched camp at night.
They passed the snowmobile party Sunday, at 11 o’clock, 63 miles from camp. It is apparently getting along as well as was expected.
I wish we had Taylor’s dogs here. His latest radio says that the Kosmos is lying outside the pack, which is unusually heavy this year.
Tuesday
October 29th
The more I think about the return journey of the Geological Party, the more I am impressed with it. The men made 99 miles in three days, which is one of the best three days’ runs on record. There is no need to be pessimistic. Gould is going over the equipment and making ready for the final advance.
Walden reports the Supporting Party at noon today laid Depot No. 3 at Lat. 81° S., Long. 163° 45’ W. They are now at the edge of the heavily crevassed area which Amundsen encountered. Fortunately, they have put down most of their loads.
This morning we blasted one of the haycocks to the east of the camp with Trojan powder. These ice formations are as tough as steel. Two cartridges made no impression, but three, when exploded together, opened up a fairly large hole. It exposed a large hollow and a corridor running in the direction of the next nearest haycock. The walls and dome were hung with beautiful crystals, and Dr. Gould discovered the largest crystal we have yet seen. He recovered it carefully and has had it photographed. Several men crawled into the aperture, and followed the tunnel for about thirty feet, at which point it narrowed down, although it continued as far as they could see.
The haycocks which I have examined are dome-shaped and stand about 25 feet high. They seem to be a solid block of ice, covered with snow. Dr. Gould is taking a series of photographs in an attempt to show the development of a haycock from successive condensations around a small vent hole in a crevasse to large pyramidal mounds. So far as I have been able to observe, the haycocks occur at points where there are likely to have been pressure blocks formed in the old bay that was once here. (There is evidence that this basin was once a bay in the Barrier. As a result of the accumulation of snow, it filled in slowly, increasing in height until it beca
me part of the Barrier. In this way, I think, the Barrier renews itself and compensates for the loss of the sections that go out to sea.) The cold air and the warmer sea water below causes fog, and thus the haycocks grow by condensation of moisture. There is probably enough movement in the ice where the pressure used to be, to keep open water more or less under the blocks.
All the crevasses in the neighborhood appear to be made up of solid green ice from sea level down. No doubt the size of the formation is substantially increased by the accumulation of drift, but in every haycock which we examined we found a central vent hole, through which the process goes on. These haycocks, by the way, are radically different from those found by Amundsen further south, which were roofed by thin crusts of snow.
Wednesday
October 30th
Supporting Party has met dreadful conditions. Walden reported by radio:
COMMANDER BYRD:
Found frightfully crevassed area starting with blind covered chasms without warning 81° 5’ S. Believe it fatal for snowmobile to proceed beyond 81°. Tried to penetrate mass hollow snow and haycocks at 81° 10’, but forced to retrace steps and change course 100 True. Believe we can find crossing to east. No imagination can picture conditions due south of Depot No. 3. Our position dead reckoning Lat. 81° 1 1’ S., Long. 163° 25’ W.
I answered:
WALDEN:
Sorry to hold you up but you must in some way warn snowmobile not to enter blind crevassed area. You must go back to beginning of blind chasms and leave message in conspicuous place. Better leave messages in several places. This is of vital importance. Tell snowmobile party to return here as soon as possible. Take your time in finding a safe place across crevasses. Safety and care above all else. Mark trail carefully with flags. Congratulations.
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