Housewreckers, Dealers in Building Material 103 Park
av R217, Tel Murray Hill 292 (See adv in Building Material Dept)
VOLK Sussman provns 88 Delancey
1929 MANHATTAN WHITE PAGES/WINTER
LIEBAN E Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza-4980
r3671 Bway EDGecombe-8995
Louis r3671 Bway EDGecombe-8995
HERMAN’S 133 W 38 St CORP 133W38 WISconsin-7590
MORGEN’S SANDWICH SHOPS INC. 1214 Bway BOGardus-8984
VOLK Albert A House Wrecking Co 1819 Bway COLumbus-7800
VOLK Jacob House Wrecking Co Inc 103 Park av ASHland-5166
VOLK Sussman provisns 88 Delncy ORChard-4843
1931 NEW YORK WHITE PAGES
LIEBAN E Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza 3-4980
Louis 10 Bennett av WAshHts 7-1624
MORGEN’S GRILL 176 5th av STuyvsnt 9-8427
MORGEN’S SANDWICH SHOPS INC. 1214 Bway BOgardus 4-8984
VOLK Albert A Co Inc hse wreckers&excavtrs 1819 Bway COlumbs 5-7800
VOLK Sussman Co provsns 88 Dlncy ORchard 4-4843
1933 NEW YORK WHITE PAGES/WINTER
HERMAN’s CAFETERIA 6W32 LAckwana 4-3793
HERMAN’S COFFEE SHOPPE INC 145 Cedar WOrth 2-9812
HERMAN’S TAVERN 500 7av CHickrng 4-6988
LIEBAN E. Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza 3-4980
Louis 370 Ft. Wash av WAshHts 7-1624
VOLK Albert A Co Inc hse wreckers&excavtrs 1819 Bway COlumbs 5-7800
VOLK Jacob wrckrs 103 Pk av LExingtn 2-7659
VOLK Sussman delctsn 88 Dlncy Orchard 4-4843
1938 NEW YORK WHITE PAGES/SUMMER
HERMAN’S CAFETERIA 6W32 LAckwana 4-3793
LIEBAN E Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza 3-4980
Residence 411 WEndAv Traflgr 7-6772
Louis 820 WendAv Acadmy 2-1530
MORGEN Herman 845 WEndAv Academy 2-1587
VOLK Albert A Co Inc hse wreckrs&excavtrs 1819 Bway COlumbs 5-7800
VOLK Ethel E 845 WEndAv Endicot 2-2746
VOLK Sussman Co delctsn 88 Dlncy Orchard 4-4843
1942–43 NEW YORK WHITE PAGES
HERMAN’S CAFETERIA 6W32 LAckwana 4-3793
Public Tel 30W33
HERMAN’S Luncheonette 284 Prk WOrth 2-8086
LIEBAN E Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza 3-4980
Residence 140 RivDr
Louis 820 WendAv ACadmy 2-1530
ROBERT’S BAKE SHOP 130 8th CHelsea 2-9818
ROBERT’S SEAFOOD 1147 Bway MUrryHill 4-9670
ROBERT’S TAVERN INC 1151 Bway MUrryhil 4-9787
VOLK Albert A Co Inc hse wreckrs&excavtrs 1819 Bway
VOLK Albert A Co Inc 871 5th Ave REgent 7-4180
COlumbs 5-7800
VOLK Cecil 320 CentPkW SCuylr 4-3290
VOLK Sussman Co delcatesn 88 Dlncy ALgonqn 4-7377
1950 NEW YORK WHITE PAGES
LIEBAN E Alan Dr dntst 30W59 PLaza 3-4980
MORGEN’S Restrnt 141W38 LOngacr 3-7316
MORGEN Herman 565 WendAv ENdicot 2-2640
Robert I 677 WEndAv
PENGUIN Refrigeration Co 188 6thAv WAlkr 5-7636
ROBERT’S BAKE SHOP 130 8th Chelsea 2-9618
STAVIN Nathan M DDS 51 W86 SChylr 4-1169
VOLK Albert A Co Inc hse wreckrs 1819 Bway COlumbs 5-7800
VOLK Cecil 110 RivDr SCuylr 4-3290
VOLK Sussman Co. delatesn 90 Delncy ALgonqn 4-8578
WOLKO TAILORS 37W125 LEhigh 4-9324
2001
LEDERMAN, Jo Ann Volk Coral Gables, Florida
LIEBAN, Richard Honolulu, Hawaii
MORGEN, Barbara Krass Scottsdale, Arizona
MORGEN, Hedy Toronto, Canada
VOLK, Audrey Morgen Boca Raton, Florida
VOLK, Patricia New York, New York
1 This is a yellow cake. But since it exists solely as a place to hang Mattie’s Chocolate Icing, we call it Mattie’s Chocolate Cake.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Hospitality provided by the Corporation of Yaddo and the MacDowell Colony were critical to the making of this book. As were family who freely answered questions: My loving mother, father, and sister and John Henry Falk, Heather Dubrow, Barbara Krass Morgen, Marcy Morgen Dulberg, and Hedwig Paola Oliva Morgen.
Thank you too, Michael H. Cohen. And always J. R. Humphreys. And Sam White, Bibi and Henry Herzog, Nancy Dawson, Henry Holland, Steve Long, Michael Motro, Norman Gottlieb, Jennifer Belle, Elizabeth Tippens, Dawn Raffel, Elizabeth Swados, Shelby Berryman, Ilene Smith, Captain Jim Haas, James Inniss, Katherine Faussett, Ralph Wolfe, Patti Rohrlich, Carmella Cangialosi, Bonnie Schiff-Glenn, Marvin Honig, Dr. Mordke Schaefter, New York’s walking encyclopedia John Tauranac, and the judicious Judith P. Vladeck.
I am blessed to know Robin Desser, my funny and ever-insightful editor. The same goes for Gloria Loomis, so smart and direct.
For their friendship I am grateful to the late Starr Scott Brin, Marilyn Green-berg, and Karen Zissu Magidson.
PATRICIA VOLK
STUFFED
Patricia Volk is the author of the novel White Light and two collections of short stories, All It Takes and The Yellow Banana. She has published stories, book reviews, and essays in dozens of magazines, including The Atlantic Monthly, The New York Times Magazine, The New York Times Book Review, New York, The New Yorker, Playboy, Redbook, GQ, The Quarterly, and O, The Oprah Magazine. She was a weekly columnist for New York Newsday, and she lives in New York.
ALSO BY PATRICIA VOLK
All It Takes
White Light
The Yellow Banana
FIRST VINTAGE BOOKS EDITION, OCTOBER 2002
Copyright © 2001 by Patricia Volk
Portions of this work were originally published in somewhat different form in the following: Allure; New York Times; New York Times Magazine; O, The Oprah Magazine; and Redbook.
Vintage and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Photographs, unless otherwise noted, are from the author’s personal collection.
Grateful acknowledgment is made to Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC for permission to adapt an excerpted lyric from “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” by Albert Von Tilzer and Jack Norworth, copyright © 1908 by Broadway Music Corp. and Bienstock Publishing Co. (Copyright renewed). All rights on behalf of Broadway Music Corp. administered by Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC, 8 Music Square West, Nashville, TN 37203. All rights reserved. Used by permission.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the Knopf edition as follows: Volk, Patricia.
Stuffed: Adventures of a restaurant family / Patricia Volk. — 1st ed.
p. cm.
1. Cookery. 2. Volk, Patricia. 3. Jews—New York (State)—New York—
Social life and customs. I. Title.
TX714.V64 2001
641.5—dc21 2001033822
www.vintagebooks.com
www.randomhouse.com
eISBN: 978-0-307-42799-1
v3.0
Stuffed Page 22